What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[KZJonny]

Looks like a normal Canadian car. 

FWIW - I’ve had good luck with knocking the worst of the flaky rust off all kinds of parts, then throwing then in a bucket of evaporust. It’s not cheap, but super labour saving.

Rinse, blast dry with compressed air and prime/paint.

 

Most likely the gear oil on the shifter is a seal going, yeah. There is one in particular that is know to fail in that area, but I think generally is leaks so little and so slowly, you wouldn’t bother doing anything about it unless it gets worse. Mine leaks and it might lose a few mL’s a year.

[Enlight]

2 hours ago, BetterJeff said:

Lifted my 2007 GT on jack stands and did all 4 corner brake bleed. Managed in the process to clear that red brake indicator from my dash - I guess my car didn't like that old brake fluid.

While underneath I did a visual inspection and found lots of rust and some surprises too.  How bad does this rust look to you? I'm from Florida and have managed to own some very clean cars. Looks like brand new knuckles, hubs, and control arms will be in order.  Other option is I dump a ton of money on a needle scaler and brake all this crud off then clean and paint. Also found a chassis ground that is completely disintegrated.

I saw your other post about buying the car from Ohio, now it makes sense. Since it's in Florida the rust will slow down a lot, but to be safe I would hose the chassis down with something like Salt Away to remove any residual salt that might continue to eat at your underbody. Next, I would apply some lanolin based undercoating. When washing the car, remove the fender liners in the front and back (and all other plastic shields underneath the car for that matter). The common rust spots on the body panel is the rear wheel arch and the dog leg below the arch and next to the door. If you do all this once the rust will likely halt.

I would not worry about the rust in your pictures too much, none of it seems structural. More pictures might help. I would replace that grounding strap that's supposed to go from the frame rail to your engine block. That can cause some weird electrical gremlins. I think I have extras I can mail you (gratis)...

[xt2005bonbon]

Got a little scared last Saturday morning. Was planning to take the family on a little excursion in the desert. 5 minutes after we left, did a little 2nd gear pull and right after that, the car began to run real rough. With the BtSm app running, I was seeing lots of misfires on cylinder 2. Uh oh, did I bust the engine? That's what ran in my head. Parked the car, visually inspected the engine bay, etc... Nothing out of order. Fuel trims were fine. What could it be?? Started the car, ran fine, did another pull, ran like crap. Limped it back to the house. After further investigation, it was a slightly loose spark plug (I did change the spark plugs two weeks ago). I guess I did not tighten that one well enough. That was a little scary..

Edited November 29, 2023 by xt2005bonbon

[tysparks81]

Swapped on winter tires, but car will likely be parked for most of the winter, since the forester is nearly ready for winter duty.

[BoozeRS05]

I was thinking about putting my snow tires on the wagon too, which I haven’t bothered with in a couple years now. Probably smart to have it ready in case I want or need to drive it this winter.

My forester passed over 180k miles last week, and I haven’t put my winter tires in it either yet. Some lady ran into my Forester last week and lied to insurance claiming I ran into her. It was a horrible experience, but I was able to prove she lied and reversed the fault back onto her policy..

 

[xt2005bonbon]

16 minutes ago, BoozeRS05 said:

I was thinking about putting my snow tires on the wagon too, which I haven’t bothered with in a couple years now. Probably smart to have it ready in case I want or need to drive it this winter.

My forester passed over 180k miles last week, and I haven’t put my winter tires in it either yet. Some lady ran into my Forester last week and lied to insurance claiming I ran into her. It was a horrible experience, but I was able to prove she lied and reversed the fault back onto her policy..

 

I HATE liars and thieves.

Must have sucked real bad trying to prove the lies and confront the person.. Maybe you did not have to do the latter though. Still, it sucks.

Edited November 29, 2023 by xt2005bonbon

[BoozeRS05]

I didn’t have to confront her bc she admitted fault in a text to me, but they still ruled in her favor at first. Thankfully when I got my rage under control I got them the change the decision bc of that text she sent. You might have to prove the other person is lying, which isn’t always easy.

Her 2020 Mercedes suv was perpendicular in the road in reverse in traffic, ran into the side of my car, and she said I hit her.. I’m getting a dash cam for myself this Xmas 

[310Z]

7 hours ago, xt2005bonbon said:

I HATE liars and thieves.

Must have sucked real bad trying to prove the lies and confront the person.. Maybe you did not have to do the latter though. Still, it sucks.

Everything in this world comes and goes, wealth, fame, ETC. When you are stripped of everything the only thing you really have is your word. 

[DoctorDaveLGT]

Bought some more stuff for it. Snagged a set of S402 door cards from the auctions that I'll be cannibalizing just for the CF trim piece since these don't have the McIntosh mid-range speaker option. Also grabbed a set of the OEM Sport option side skirts and will most likely be removing my strake/spat set from the car. The Emotion Fukuoka bumper sits lower than OEM and I have a preemptive feeling the sport skirts will flow better than the strake/spat but I guess we'll see. I'm going to have the painter paint but not install the skirts so I can decide later on switching. Also not sure how I'm going to feel about the quad tips of the Q300 with this bumper since the cutouts are clearly shaped for a big dual tip setup.

Other than that just waiting on some minor items replacement parts (i.e. bolts and bearings) to show up to get the suspension & brake changes done. Mentioned this in another forum post but found out one of my front Koni's was shot so decided to pull the trigger on RCE Tarmac c/o's. Will be replacing the Koni, under warranty hopefully, but what also drove that decision was wanting to get away from the Swift springs and raise the car a tad for a little extra front lip protection. In hindsight, glad I went with blue on the calipers as I got a nice Bob Ross/happy accident regarding the color scheme.

[seanyb505]

Popped some kind of coolant leak this morning. Gauge went from a little high to higher and not cooling off once moving. Pulled over and ordered a tow. 

I've added about half a gallon of water since waiting, so I know I was wasn't completely empty. I'd say once I parked, I probably only left a few ounces max on the ground. 

Seems to be coming from the thermostat area and wetting the splash shield just in that spot. 

A few months ago I noticed the engine would run at not full temp for a while before actually reaching normal. I'm hoping this is pointing to a thermostat funk rather than the water pump. I'd love to not deal with the timing belt. 

[Infosecdad]

1 hour ago, seanyb505 said:

Popped some kind of coolant leak this morning. Gauge went from a little high to higher and not cooling off once moving. Pulled over and ordered a tow. 

I've added about half a gallon of water since waiting, so I know I was wasn't completely empty. I'd say once I parked, I probably only left a few ounces max on the ground. 

Seems to be coming from the thermostat area and wetting the splash shield just in that spot. 

A few months ago I noticed the engine would run at not full temp for a while before actually reaching normal. I'm hoping this is pointing to a thermostat funk rather than the water pump. I'd love to not deal with the timing belt. 

Sounds like an OEM thermostat might be in order for this one. Don't forget to have the jiggle pin at the "top" so the air can escape.

[KZJonny]

Just a little over the 100k mile mark for those on freedom units. 

Happened exactly as I parked at work, so good time to snap a photo while not driving.

She gets parked for the winter shortly with all the salt going down soon. Have a good nap girl!

[seanyb505]

4 hours ago, Infosecdad said:

Sounds like an OEM thermostat might be in order for this one. Don't forget to have the jiggle pin at the "top" so the air can escape.

Thanks. Oem with pin on top would be a 1:1 replacement 

[jaylew]

Just passed 265k. I was cutting it close in crossing that with salt season imminent. I hope to treat the car to a 20 year birthday present next year of a new SB. 

And just to make everyone cringe, the past 25k has technically been on the same oil change (new filter at least every 10k)....I burn oil at about 1qt/300 miles so I figured it was getting an oil change every 1500 miles at that rate.

[Flaris]

Checked Subi's oil and saw she barely had any, surprisingly! The oil leaks have been stopped and seemingly have been successfully, no signs of oil where it shouldn't be (ground or otherwise). So she's simply burning the oil fast. I'm a delivery driver so highway to work, then a lot of local running around. Typically 100 miles daily give or take. I'll be trying to pull codes to see if there's anything potentially out of sorts to be safe.

I topped off her oil and went for a ride to let it work its way into the system and stopped at the store to grab some antifreeze -- I had heard some sloshing on a cold start last night as I left for work so I'm burping her now juuuust to be on the safe side.

And I ordered some new rear rotors (element3/coated) and akebono brake pads (as per info on the forum!) which should arrive tomorrow as I noticed that the rear pads were quite slim and I need to go back there anyway for ABS sensor shenanigans.

[xt2005bonbon]

18 minutes ago, Flaris said:

Checked Subi's oil and saw she barely had any, surprisingly! The oil leaks have been stopped and seemingly have been successfully, no signs of oil where it shouldn't be (ground or otherwise). So she's simply burning the oil fast. I'm a delivery driver so highway to work, then a lot of local running around. Typically 100 miles daily give or take. I'll be trying to pull codes to see if there's anything potentially out of sorts to be safe.

I topped off her oil and went for a ride to let it work its way into the system and stopped at the store to grab some antifreeze -- I had heard some sloshing on a cold start last night as I left for work so I'm burping her now juuuust to be on the safe side.

And I ordered some new rear rotors (element3/coated) and akebono brake pads (as per info on the forum!) which should arrive tomorrow as I noticed that the rear pads were quite slim and I need to go back there anyway for ABS sensor shenanigans.

 

Keep an eye on how fast you are burning oil. Usually, a quart per OCI is considered OK per the internets . But a quart burned in less than 1k is definitely worrisome...

[KZJonny]

1 hour ago, jaylew said:

Just passed 265k. I was cutting it close in crossing that with salt season imminent. I hope to treat the car to a 20 year birthday present next year of a new SB. 

And just to make everyone cringe, the past 25k has technically been on the same oil change (new filter at least every 10k)....I burn oil at about 1qt/300 miles so I figured it was getting an oil change every 1500 miles at that rate.

At what point do you start using a blend of 2-stroke and Supertech oils?

[Flaris]

45 minutes ago, xt2005bonbon said:

 

Keep an eye on how fast you are burning oil. Usually, a quart per OCI is considered OK per the internets . But a quart burned in less than 1k is definitely worrisome...

Will do! I'm going to keep a little notepad so I can try to keep a closer eye on it and check/mark at regular intervals.

[jaylew]

1 hour ago, KZJonny said:

At what point do you start using a blend of 2-stroke and Supertech oils?

it does the mixing for me haha! I have been buying supertech because at the rate i burn, only the cheapest oil will satisfy. Some oil is better than no oil.

 

As for @Flaris ...sorry to hear about your oil consumption but I have been driving with my car's level of consumption in the <1k miles to the quart for 60k miles. Totally doable, kind of a pain, but here i am

[seanyb505]

A friend of mine recently picked up a Volvo, so I ordered some prancingmoose.com shield stickers as a Christmas gift. While poking around the site I saw he now has a few Subaru emblem vinyls. Ordered carbon fiber with pink stars just for fun. 

Still haven't got under the car to locate the coolant leak. I did take the driver side timing cover off because it was easy. Nothing terribly yucky in there. I'll wait until I get underneath to breathe a sigh of relief. The fsm water pump instructions include removing the cam gears.

Edited December 1, 2023 by seanyb505

[xt2005bonbon]

I remember having a leak there after the rebuild. It was the hose connected to the thermostat. Clamp was loose. That'd be nice if that is your problem. Easy fix.

[silverton]

51 minutes ago, seanyb505 said:

A friend of mine recently picked up a Volvo, so I ordered some prancingmoose.com shield stickers as a Christmas gift. While poking around the site I saw he now has a few Subaru emblem vinyls. Ordered carbon fiber with pink stars just for fun. 

Still haven't got under the car to locate the coolant leak. I did take the driver side timing cover off because it was easy. Nothing terribly yucky in there. I'll wait until I get underneath to breathe a sigh of relief. The fsm water pump instructions include removing the cam gears.

They want to take the cam gears off to get the rear timing cover out, as this does make it easier to replace the pump; but you don't need to.  If it were me I'd take the tensioner bracket out since you'll need to reset your tensioner anyway.  tensioner bracket bolts are 25nm, water pump bolts are two passes of 12, or do it the saab way; one pass of 8, second pass of 12.

[Flaris]

I received my new brake pads and rotors, but have no time to install them today. I am considering using steelstik to fill an overdrilled hole where the metal bracket/hood strut clip goes so I can re-drill the correct sized hole -- however, I'd been thinking 10mm was correct, but it might not be.

So today is "figure out what size hole the washer fluid reservoir bolt will fit into and measure it out" day. Whenever I can get that metal bracket onto Subi I'll finally be able to reinstall her air inlet duct. Worst case scenario is I'll just see if any of the local dealers have it (901120061), buy a couple and take them to a hardware store to try to eyeball the right sized drill and tap to use.

[310Z]

Yesterday I purchased a set of era specific SSR GT-7s. They are 17x7.5 - 50 offset. They came with 14 year old 225-45-17 tires and that was good for sizing. The wheels have little use but there is light sun damage. I only put them on one side to see how they looked on the car and took these photos. All the wheels have the original stickers on the inner wheel. I like the look and color combination. I also like the tire size as it fills out the wheel well better.

The bad news is that when I was cleaning them up in good lighting I found a crack on an inner bead of one. It is repairable but I wish I would have seen it when making the purchase. I will also want to attempt to clean up and respray the wheels.

[silverton]

2 hours ago, Flaris said:

I received my new brake pads and rotors, but have no time to install them today. I am considering using steelstik to fill an overdrilled hole where the metal bracket/hood strut clip goes so I can re-drill the correct sized hole -- however, I'd been thinking 10mm was correct, but it might not be.

So today is "figure out what size hole the washer fluid reservoir bolt will fit into and measure it out" day. Whenever I can get that metal bracket onto Subi I'll finally be able to reinstall her air inlet duct. Worst case scenario is I'll just see if any of the local dealers have it (901120061), buy a couple and take them to a hardware store to try to eyeball the right sized drill and tap to use.

should be 10mm bolts, and if they are 10mm bolts I believe that makes them m8x1.0