What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[SubOperator]

18 hours ago, Enlight said:

Finally had some time to devote to the Legacy again. It's always a bit of a hurdle to dive back into a project that's been neglected for a bit. The first day was pretty much just assessing where I was. Immediately after ECM '23 I moved out of my family's place and was slammed by work, progress on the car ground to a halt. In that time, I sent my turbo out to @JmP6889928 to work his magic.

Today I connected all of the EVAP lines, the job was bigger in my head than in reality. This diagram that @RumblyXT was invaluable. The Subaru engine bay was never pretty to begin with, but with the aftermarket coolant lines and IAG AOS it's really a medusa. I spent most of my time struggling with tension clamps and trying to route all the hoses and cleanly as possible but there's only so much that can be done. @madrig's engine bay covers will be helpful.

Tomorrow I will install the boost solenoid, P/S, and A/C brackets. Is the end actually in sight?

Happy to see the progress and sure looks like you made a right decision not to force all of that be done last night before ECM.

 

 

[m sprank]

Confirmed its not just me it's the gear too. So, I disassembled the pedals and changed all the springs. I also modded the brake compression plug. Then I disassembled the shifter. I hot glued the potentiometers in place so they can not shift position in their mount. I replaced the tension sping with a 3d printed spring. I added a 3d printed and stainless steel gate system. 

Pedals are better. Not great, but better. Brake is more controllable even though it still feels like a toy. Heel toe is much better.

Shifter is much better. More realistic and more accurate shifts. 

Proof is in the pudding. 1st drive, new personal best. Back in the top 400's. 444 to be exact (for now).

[Febreze Mee]

*Clears throat* Wagonfest 2023. *Mic drop.*

https://www.avants.com/events/2023/9-24/wagonfest-pnw

[m sprank]

Stayed up late and dropped into low 3:53. Now at 404 global ranking.  Got up at 5am and packed the car. Sitting in a cabin at Black Water Falls state park during a torrential down pour. At least we saw the falls before the rain. 

 

[SubOperator]

Put the last coat of marine corrosion protection on all surfaces in the rear fenders. Removed the rust on the right side as it was falling off anyway. Patched the slight opening with a ghetto engineering patch to prevent water from getting in until I get something better there. Put the rear fender liners and rear wheels back on.

Then went on trying to fit JDM undertray Spec-B bumper adapter pieces from to USDM fender liners. They do not align perfectly but close enough to seal the gaps.

Got the JDM fender liner part ## from the remaining cutouts that came with the bumper. Found the JDM fender liners cheap on partsouq but shipping is a killer. I am not ready to pay $130 shipping for $30 part and they do not do combine shipping. So back to fitting what I have to USDM pre-face lift fender liners.

 

 

 

[tehspud]

3 hours ago, Febreze Mee said:

*Clears throat* Wagonfest 2023. *Mic drop.*

https://www.avants.com/events/2023/9-24/wagonfest-pnw

sonofabitch I don't think I'll be able to make it this year! 

[KZJonny]

On 8/6/2023 at 1:43 PM, m sprank said:

Confirmed its not just me it's the gear too. So, I disassembled the pedals and changed all the springs. I also modded the brake compression plug. Then I disassembled the shifter. I hot glued the potentiometers in place so they can not shift position in their mount. I replaced the tension sping with a 3d printed spring. I added a 3d printed and stainless steel gate system. 

Pedals are better. Not great, but better. Brake is more controllable even though it still feels like a toy. Heel toe is much better.

Shifter is much better. More realistic and more accurate shifts. 

Proof is in the pudding. 1st drive, new personal best. Back in the top 400's. 444 to be exact (for now).

Damn.

For the money, maybe I should look into a driving sim. The way things are these days, it's the closest I'll get to ever getting behind the wheel of a nice 240Z.

Ugh. Makes me keen to dive into working on the 510. Patience...

 

Good to see the tweaks are paying off.

[SubOperator]

What about BoxerFest? Time to go down to PA again?
 

https://www.boxerfest.com/tickets?sest=ebfam

 

[m sprank]

2 hours from my home.  Been to York several times.  Hmmmmm.....  Anyone going???

[m sprank]

18 hours ago, KZJonny said:

Damn.

For the money, maybe I should look into a driving sim. The way things are these days, it's the closest I'll get to ever getting behind the wheel of a nice 240Z.

Ugh. Makes me keen to dive into working on the 510. Patience...

 

Good to see the tweaks are paying off.

My newest addition.  Gotta love 3d printing.  You should appreciate this.  Yes, you can have that drink and race.

[m sprank]

Pix or it did not happen.

Damn the global crowd moves fast.  Bested myself by a few tenths and still moved down, again.  Oh, well.  I have room for improvement.  I completely dorked the Scandinavian flick in a hairpin so I can shave more time off right there. 

Brake or slide to scrub speed, that is the question.  If you decide to brake you better be traveling straight.  Use the brake and the throttle simultaneously all the way through turns. 

[xt2005bonbon]

Just curious, why aren't you driving an AWD car in that game? And why not a Subie?

[m sprank]

Gotta start slow. 

Three choices in Subie, all turbo and powerful.  $hit tons of grip.  Once I get comfortable with a 228hp n/a rwd I will move up.  I want to drive as best I can before I add hp and not just make myself feel faster. 

I tried a Subie and it was humbling.  I felt bad about wrecking it. 

[Dishwasher]

Pulled the motor today. 130,000 mile clutch with mostly highway miles is still in half decent shape. Still gonna replace it. Gonna start breaking down the short block shortly so the heads can get machined. Definitely bent the studs that go into the transmission while pulling it. Oops. First engine pull so feeling good otherwise. VF40 has no shaft play either. 

[SilentJ20]

1 hour ago, Dishwasher said:

Pulled the motor today. 130,000 mile clutch with mostly highway miles is still in half decent shape. Still gonna replace it. Gonna start breaking down the short block shortly so the heads can get machined. Definitely bent the studs that go into the transmission while pulling it. Oops. First engine pull so feeling good otherwise. VF40 has no shaft play either. 

Just did a short block on mine a bit ago (had heads machined, did clutch, etc).  What's your reason?  Mine was ringlands!

At first I was terrified of taking things apart.  Well, more like getting anxiety over seeing all the parts scattered around.  But for all their quirks, at least the engines come out easy and seem simple enough to work on.

[Dishwasher]

1 hour ago, SilentJ20 said:

Just did a short block on mine a bit ago (had heads machined, did clutch, etc).  What's your reason?  Mine was ringlands!

At first I was terrified of taking things apart.  Well, more like getting anxiety over seeing all the parts scattered around.  But for all their quirks, at least the engines come out easy and seem simple enough to work on.

Yeah exactly although the jury is still out on whether or not I can get it reassembled correctly. 
 

reason for the engine pull was a burnt valve. Decided to replace the shortblock since I was using quite a bit of oil too so might as well. 

[SilentJ20]

What did I do in the last 24 hours?

I stared at it.  Though about washing it, but it's supposed to rain tomorrow.  Thought about detailing the inside, but if I'm putting off washing it because it's gonna rain tomorrow, I may as well put off the interior another couple days.  I did give it a couple quick sprays of a leather-scented interior freshener.

Also debating about going to a local-ish car show:  OCTURBOFEST

Not sure what it will be like.  Don't know if it's the kind of thing GTs or spec.Bs would go to.  Not looking to devote a bunch of time into a club, just want to see cars and maybe meet some neat people.

[ChicagoSam]

Added some side mirror garnish.

[Enlight]

It looks like my car will be ready for a tune soon. The tuner I'm sending it to prefers not to give a baseline tune (I may revisit that conversation with him) and wants me to trailer/tow the car directly to the shop. Is there any way to manually winch a car onto a Uhaul trailer? I would rather not roll the car down the hill to get onto the trailer.

Edit: One solution might be to disconnect the driveshaft so I can use a trailer dolly, which would be much easier to get the car on top of.

[KZJonny]

26 minutes ago, Enlight said:

It looks like my car will be ready for a tune soon. The tuner I'm sending it to prefers not to give a baseline tune (I may revisit that conversation with him) and wants me to trailer/tow the car directly to the shop. Is there any way to manually winch a car onto a Uhaul trailer? I would rather not roll the car down the hill to get onto the trailer.

Edit: One solution might be to disconnect the driveshaft so I can use a trailer dolly, which would be much easier to get the car on top of.

How far away is this guy? I know you do not drive a modified car without a tune!!I and all that, buuut, no boost should be fine, if it's like, across town.

If for whatever reason, that isn't safe, then I'd probably elect to remove the driveshaft and use a dolly. Muuuch easier, and less risk of opening your door into those crazy tall fenders the u-haul trailers have right where they'd dent your doors.

That said, I also do not see any real risk in just driving your car up onto a flatdeck. It's not like your in boost to get the thing on a trailer. (I hope!?) It's not as tho the tuner isn't going to run the engine at low RPM to get everyhting started and checked out.

However, not my car, and I would probably be a little more paranoid after pouring the amount of time and effort into mine that you did!

Edited August 9, 2023 by KZJonny

[rhino6303]

On 8/9/2023 at 10:04 AM, Enlight said:

It looks like my car will be ready for a tune soon. The tuner I'm sending it to prefers not to give a baseline tune (I may revisit that conversation with him) and wants me to trailer/tow the car directly to the shop. Is there any way to manually winch a car onto a Uhaul trailer? I would rather not roll the car down the hill to get onto the trailer.

Edit: One solution might be to disconnect the driveshaft so I can use a trailer dolly, which would be much easier to get the car on top of.

Just use a come along to get the car on the trailer.

[Enlight]

Yeah, after looking at some different options I realized that was the most economical. Harbor Freight's 4,000lb model is just $25.00. This city boy is slow.

[SilentJ20]

I just cut the wire to disable the DRL.  I didn't like how the DRL slowly cooked my hi-beam bulbs, and this way it makes it easy to explore alternate lighting options.  The cut wire is to disable only the DRL function while still allowing the hi-beam indicator to work.  It's also very reversible with a crimp connector if I decide to go back. 

[KZJonny]

16 hours ago, SilentJ20 said:

I just cut the wire to disable the DRL.  I didn't like how the DRL slowly cooked my hi-beam bulbs, and this way it makes it easy to explore alternate lighting options.  The cut wire is to disable only the DRL function while still allowing the hi-beam indicator to work.  It's also very reversible with a crimp connector if I decide to go back. 

Not to get caught in the details, but does the DRL not run on the low beams? Just that I was under the impression it did.

I've also been sort of curious about this whole DRL debate. Is it the fact that the module runs (whichever...) bulbs on reduced wattage that is the problem? Ie: I was under the impression that on DRL mode, the bulbs are fed like 50-60% of normal amperage, so run a little dimmer, and it is this that causes their effective lives to be shortened. Meaning people are always running at 100% power output on the bulbs. (This is what I do, the first thing I do when I turn the car on is go to full output on headlights.)

OR

Is it that people are disabling the DRLs and driving around without any headlights on at all? And this is the way to get "longer life" out of your bulbs? This would mean driving with only the marker lights on?

 

Geniunely curious as where I live headlights on or DRLs is mandatory and quite vigourously enforced by the Po. If I'm allowed an opinion, I'm glad for it, since it makes it much easier to keep track of all the cars around you. I personally find it super annoying when people are driving around without full headlighting on, but if it's allowed in your jurisdiction, it's not on me to judge. I've seen alot about defeating the DRL module and always wondered what the deal was.

[rhino6303]

52 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

Not to get caught in the details, but does the DRL not run on the low beams? Just that I was under the impression it did.

I've also been sort of curious about this whole DRL debate. Is it the fact that the module runs (whichever...) bulbs on reduced wattage that is the problem? Ie: I was under the impression that on DRL mode, the bulbs are fed like 50-60% of normal amperage, so run a little dimmer, and it is this that causes their effective lives to be shortened. Meaning people are always running at 100% power output on the bulbs. (This is what I do, the first thing I do when I turn the car on is go to full output on headlights.)

OR

Is it that people are disabling the DRLs and driving around without any headlights on at all? And this is the way to get "longer life" out of your bulbs? This would mean driving with only the marker lights on?

 

Geniunely curious as where I live headlights on or DRLs is mandatory and quite vigourously enforced by the Po. If I'm allowed an opinion, I'm glad for it, since it makes it much easier to keep track of all the cars around you. I personally find it super annoying when people are driving around without full headlighting on, but if it's allowed in your jurisdiction, it's not on me to judge. I've seen alot about defeating the DRL module and always wondered what the deal was.

05-06 used low beams as DRL. 07-09 use high beam as DRL. Anyone who has done a HID retrofit for 05-06 generally removes drl so the ballasts don't burn out prematurely.