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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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A couple weeks ago, I found that my clutch decided to try to eat the little cover that goes over the access hole at the back of the block.  So, I got the Verus Engineering cover and installed it.  No way this one is going to drop in.  Only issue was that this meant that there were now three brackets on the bottom bolt in the photo.  I decided to remove the engine removal bracket so now it's just the Verus cover and the support bracket for my intercooler.  

PXL_20230513_032903879.jpg

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22 minutes ago, Enlight said:

Well now I know that I'm missing a cover for that access hole.

Your build is incomplete without that cover.

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  • Haha 5

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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On Saturday, I washed the LGT.  Sunday morning I tried to grease my RSB bushings.  I say tried, cause I attempted to turn one bolt (after giving it a liberal shot of PB Blaster) and the ratchet was turning more than the threaded portion.  Didn't have time or inclination to deal with a broken bolt (or breaking out a torch) so that will have to wait until this weekend.

Edited by GearJamr
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Yesterday, I greased the pivot under the clutch fork. Degreased the engine bay again. Replaced the clutch master, clutch slave, and hydraulic line yessir. Started to bleed, but made a mess and became frustrated. Finishing the bleed today. 
 

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MILKRUN  - Click Here

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I've never DIY'd an oil change on this car (well... except for when the motor blew... that did happen, but it happened on a lift with a blown motor). Decided that I now live in a place with no HOA and a flat driveway I'll finally do it myself. Always can trust Surgeline to do it but I'm a bit of a ways from them now and these 3000 miles oil changes are killing the wallet with their pricey Amsoil. 

Picked up 5 quarts of VW OE 5W-40 from the Audi dealer I work for and got a nice FRAM filter for 9 bucks. Gonna do the oil change at 4K and send the results to Blackstone Labs and see what they think about extending my OCIs. I figure if Audi recommends 10K oil changes on their oil and Amsoil recommends 20K with their oil and filters that I'm surely safe to go 6-7K... right? Guess I'll let the guys in labcoats figure that out for me.

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I've always used Brotella T6 and OEM subie filter, and Blackstone said each time i could go longer.  5k was enough for me, and at the time that was a 6 month+ oil change interval. 

 

now that it's the only car, might be time to check yearly miles and re-evaluate though.

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Subie parts dept. is closed Saturdays, so I made a little bracket to secure the RHS of the accessory cover and installed it.

Required? Not at all. But my fingers are, and accidents can happen. Stock cover no longer fits, so this should at least keep a tool or hand from straying into a moving belt.

Edited by KZJonny
Really should stop posting on my phone. Spelling.
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Washed and vacuumed today. I put good effort into more door jams, sills, and seals. I didn't take any pics of the car.
 

150mi on the new motor. The torque is there, and it runs beyond smooth. I can feel the difference, for the better,  in idle with the Fluidampr on vs the GS LWCP —buttery. 
 

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MILKRUN  - Click Here

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Got the AOS breather hose replaced. PITA is an understatement with the VF48's cold side exit sitting right over the port on the engine. But lots of swearing and a sliced finger later it's in. Managed to get every hose at the "Y" and breather port tightened with clamps instead of zipties. Replaced the old bell housing cover with the Verus cover while I was in there (thank you blide for the idea!). Also changed the IAG check valve - $3 part that's been in there for 40k miles I figured why not.

Got everything buttoned up and took it for a drive and everything seemed great. Right before the gas station I got up to around 5psi and felt the car seemingly cut throttle and lurch. Thought "hmm" and tried it again - same issue. Super worried and limped it to the gas station, popped the hood and saw what it was immediately; worm clamp at the silicone pipe from the turbo to the intercooler was loose - forgot to tighten it 😑. Luckily had a toolkit and got it tightened and everything is good.

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On 6/7/2023 at 7:31 PM, Pleides said:

I've never DIY'd an oil change on this car (well... except for when the motor blew... that did happen, but it happened on a lift with a blown motor). Decided that I now live in a place with no HOA and a flat driveway I'll finally do it myself. Always can trust Surgeline to do it but I'm a bit of a ways from them now and these 3000 miles oil changes are killing the wallet with their pricey Amsoil. 

Picked up 5 quarts of VW OE 5W-40 from the Audi dealer I work for and got a nice FRAM filter for 9 bucks. Gonna do the oil change at 4K and send the results to Blackstone Labs and see what they think about extending my OCIs. I figure if Audi recommends 10K oil changes on their oil and Amsoil recommends 20K with their oil and filters that I'm surely safe to go 6-7K... right? Guess I'll let the guys in labcoats figure that out for me.

Cmon Amsoil is not that bad price wise if you know a few people on here wink wink. lol FYI I ran the Ea 20k filter on my old 08 for 21k miles and had not problems, that was a test to see if it would hold up and it did. I run my LGT amsoil filter for 15k miles but change the oil every 5k. Just got to eat tune for a week. :) 

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4 hours ago, NORULZleggy said:

Cmon Amsoil is not that bad price wise if you know a few people on here wink wink. lol FYI I ran the Ea 20k filter on my old 08 for 21k miles and had not problems, that was a test to see if it would hold up and it did. I run my LGT amsoil filter for 15k miles but change the oil every 5k. Just got to eat tune for a week. :) 

I'm gonna push for a 7K oil change. Max Capacity told me about how he did 9K oil changes with Amsoil 5W40 Euro and had no issues. I'm thinking with my driving it'll have to be shorter than his changes since he did all freeway driving and mine is more mixed but I'm definitely not interested in changing the oil every 3K anymore, especially with how expensive Amsoil was for me. Free oil from the Audi dealer I work for is definitely the way to go, though. Even if my car burns it... well it's still free. It's also 5W40 which I should probably be running anyways. 

 

I might try running the FRAM Ultra Synthetic filter for a couple oil changes though. Gonna be nice with the Fumoto valve.

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4 minutes ago, Pleides said:

I'm gonna push for a 7K oil change. Max Capacity told me about how he did 9K oil changes with Amsoil 5W40 Euro and had no issues. I'm thinking with my driving it'll have to be shorter than his changes since he did all freeway driving and mine is more mixed but I'm definitely not interested in changing the oil every 3K anymore, especially with how expensive Amsoil was for me. Free oil from the Audi dealer I work for is definitely the way to go, though. Even if my car burns it... well it's still free. It's also 5W40 which I should probably be running anyways. 

 

I might try running the FRAM Ultra Synthetic filter for a couple oil changes though. Gonna be nice with the Fumoto valve.

Yep I run the same 5w-40 once Max mentioned it even though I been selling and running it forever. I have the EZ drain valve also on all my cars. I love it. Try the Toyo Roku filters also for our cars. I have a bunch of those the Amsoil filters. I run my Amsoil now since they were out of stock for a year. But free is free so use that.

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I want to clean up the mess of vacuum and EVAP hoses in front of the intake manifold. My car came without this "Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid Bracket." Is the reason people remove it because it interferes with upgraded turbo inlets?

Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid Bracket.png

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Bessie II's Thread

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1 hour ago, Enlight said:

I want to clean up the mess of vacuum and EVAP hoses in front of the intake manifold. My car came without this "Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid Bracket." Is the reason people remove it because it interferes with upgraded turbo inlets?

Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid Bracket.png

I've still got mine. Fit fine with the used Perrin Inlet I installed a while ago. Install process wasn't meaningfully worse for it being there.

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Thanks. I don't think my HKS inlet is any bigger than the Perrin, if memory serves. The HKS inlet has 1 less port than the Perrin, I assume because JDM market did not require EVAP (4 ports vs 5). I'm trying to wrap my head around the entire PCV/EVAP/Vacuum system so I can figure our where I can "T" in.

Today I removed the P/S pump, A/C condenser, BOV line, and some PCV stuff so I could reorganize all those lines, hoses, and harness under the intake manifold. I'm glad I did because I found that the tension on the harness snapped the knock sensor line. Interestingly, it only has one pole. I was able to move the harness in such a way now that it will now be able to reach the power steering pressure sensor. I might not have to take apart all of it after all.

hks_inlet.jpg

perrin_inlet.jpg

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I'm running the Perrin turbo inlet now but I had the HKS before. I powdercoated it black since I was in California at the time and I had no problems passing visual inspection for smog, since it looked OEM. The reason that I switched to the Perrin is that the HKS didn't work with any intake and I needed more air.

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I've done nothing physical to the car today. I've only been thinking about it and feeling regret. I performed my first oil change after a short block rebuild and since I am running a Killer B oil pan, I'd go up the 6 quart fill instead to the 5 quart I did for the initial fill. Pulled out of the garage to go to work last week and noticed a new spot on the cardboard I've been keeping under the car to check for leaks. When I pulled back in, looked under the car and saw a drip forming on the pan. I was dreading it possibly being from the fumoto valve or stripped threads in the pan or something. I ignored the car until the weekend when I planned on lifting it to put a skid pan and mud guards on. Turns out that the oil was coming from the spout where the dip stick tube installs. Thats where the real regret comes, because when I installed it with the o-ring(s) (can't remember as its been awhile, but I used whatever came with the pan) I thought the tube went in way too easy compared to how difficult it was to remove from the OEM pan. I was in follow directions mode and didn't think much more about it. What a bummer. Tried cleaning the area and applying some RTV knowing full well it likely wouldn't work (it didn't), but it was some action I could take to make myself feel like I maybe helped the situation. Now internet searching, I'm dreading the thought of what it takes to correct this properly.

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Drove down to Deer Island, OR to pick up my brand new Inferno Fab headers. Fit and finish is exceptional. Mild steel, catted, UELs. My old catalytic converter had a crack in it, revealed when I removed the exhaust for the second motor swap, so it's convenient I ordered these when I did. Crossing my fingers for no more P0420 code. Otherwise, it will be back to the drawing board. I will be looking to Performance Coatings in Auburn, WA to get these ceramic coated inside and out.  
 

Meanwhile, I'll be living out my childhood dreams with a not-so-subtle exhaust note for the weekend before bolting the mufflers back up. I'm enjoying the noise a little more than I imagined I would, and I'm stoked to start hunting for exhaust options now too!

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MILKRUN  - Click Here

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VERY late to the party. So, to catch up...

I did a LOT of mods since snagging my LGT and never stop wrenching on it. Here's a quick visual before & after:

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Interior, exterior, engine, etc have all been meticulously overhauled and I've yet to meet an STI that can keep up.

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