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What Did You Do To Your 6th Gen Today Thread - Vol 3


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Modern cars really aren't affected that badly. Yes the nuts and bolts and exhaust might start to rust faster but it's not like they crumble and fall apart after 3-5 years. You just need some more WD 40 when you work on them.

 

One thing we try to do here in NY is run them through the car wash a couple times a month to keep the salt down, and it pretty much takes care of it. I don't think it hurts the resale value of average everyday cars.

 

90s cars were a different story....

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Modern cars really aren't affected that badly. Yes the nuts and bolts and exhaust might start to rust faster but it's not like they crumble and fall apart after 3-5 years. You just need some more WD 40 when you work on them.One thing we try to do here in NY is run them through the car wash a couple times a month to keep the salt down, and it pretty much takes care of it. I don't think it hurts the resale value of average everyday cars.90s cars were a different story....

 

Interesting ... thanks.

 

One of the main reasons that I had those "rust concerns" was from watching one of your NY mechanics ... "South Main Auto" (who I think is very good) ... and he seems to regularly get customers with cars that are almost falling apart from rust .... but maybe a lot of these were the 90's cars that you mentioned in your reply.

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My DD turn as tail module kit started having issues and it’s was past the 3year warranty but I contacted DD customer service and told them about the issue and they decided to send me a free new kit anyways:)

 

Also first thing on the morning I will dropping off my car to dealer because few months ago they replace the spring on the steering rack due to rattling,well rattling game back and more worst,but I was told that if rattling comes back they will replace the whole rack assembly.

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From someone who comes from a place where there is no snow, I'd like to ask you (and any other "eskimos" :)) ... how long would you normally expect your car to last before it was severely rust affected due to the snow, and the salt used on the roads over there? And that must greatly affect the resale value wouldn't it?

 

Also, most newer cars (if not all) come with a rust warranty for 5-8 years of some kind.

 

Our Subarus come with 5.

https://www.subaru.com/guides/legacy/my16/Own/Warranties

 

Not sure what exactly it covers, but you can be certain that it won't fall apart.

 

New manufacturing processes dip the whole chassis and body into charged baths for the coatings to stick to the metal. If you take decent care, you are usually good for 10-15 years with no major issues; YMMV based on a multitude of factors.

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Not sure what exactly it covers ...

Body panel perforation (i.e. rust-through) only. Refer to the Warranty & Maintenance Guide for details.

"If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." ~ The Cheshire Cat (Alice in Wonderland)

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Here You Go..

Airrex Info

 

Full Up Air Pressure 135psi Front/Rear

 

Front - 26.75 Inches = 67.94cm

 

Rear - 26.75 Inches = 67.94cm

 

Normal Drive Height 75psi Front / 65-70psi Rear

 

Front- 26.25 Inches = 66.67cm

 

Rear - 26 Inches = 66.04cm

 

Full Down 5psi Front/Rear

 

Front - 24 Inches = 60.96cm

 

Rear - 24.25 Inches = 61.59cm

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Oh thank **** we are similar. I was really worried about mine. But seeing as you're using Airrex it's likely the same if not similar suspension, they're all rebranded stuff. You're lower by 2cm at lowest. I'm going to tell my mechanic to adjust it lol.

 

Also I air it out whenever I park [emoji85]

 

Also I put switchbacks, halos and demon eyes in. More pics soon!

 

B0OhEDZ.jpg

Edited by Libertarian
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Oh thank **** we are similar. I was really worried about mine. But seeing as you're using Airrex it's likely the same if not similar suspension, they're all rebranded stuff. You're lower by 2cm at lowest. I'm going to tell my mechanic to adjust it lol.

 

Also I air it out whenever I park [emoji85]

 

Also I put switchbacks, halos and demon eyes in. More pics soon!

 

B0OhEDZ.jpg

When your parked overnight you should leave it at ride height to leave pressure on the valves to prevent future leaks and management failures. I only air out when I'm at shows or at a place for a long period of time. The more things move up n down the more things have the tendency to wear out.

 

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Working on this Long Weekend. Since 2020 is here decided to start a full detail.. Today was a Full Wash, Clay Bar and Chemical Guys V36 Polish for that Slight Paint Correction.. Couldn't finish today so tomorrow I'll apply Chemical Guys White Light and Pete's 53 Wax.. aa697dda72670b3d289a76687acfcb48.jpg

 

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I like those wheels much more than what you've posted in the past! I'm still in favor of light, forged wheels, but at least you've upgraded from previous deep-dish-pizza platters! :p

'15 FB25

Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles)

RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where

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When your parked overnight you should leave it at ride height to leave pressure on the valves to prevent future leaks and management failures. I only air out when I'm at shows or at a place for a long period of time. The more things move up n down the more things have the tendency to wear out.

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

Ah good point, well I have had a few leaks, which were fixed but they were generally at the actuator (or just in the boot in general) and were the mechanic's issue. The only leak I have gotten from general ware would be from the front bag lead itself. Whilst it is braided it was not up to the challenge of being turned left and right as well as up and down. My mechanic is in the process of getting a better grade of braided pipe to replace it. I was just pleased it was not the bag itself.

 

I was told by my mechanic to air it out as it is simply safer to do so. He isnt even comfortable with my air being in the tank overnight.

 

But we had this discussion about airing it up and down after complaining to the distributor about the lead leaking. The distributor asked "do you lower the car?". We all laughed. The whole ******* point of having air suspension is to raise and lower the car. So I do, not as much as I did when I first got it - but I do quite a lot. Generally when parked only now days or when going up/down shitty drive ways and entrances.

 

Have you got any more photos of your car? Aired out etc? Id love to see how low the front bar is.

 

Oh and as for my controller, it is quite small, with a little screen readout of each bag's PSI - very similar to AirLift 3H (but a cheap chinese knockoff). I have a metal plate stuck to the back of it so I then mount it on a small magnetic air vent mobile phone holder on the drivers side air vent next to the window! I have to kinda move my head to see it, but I don't really need to see it when driving anyways.

Edited by Libertarian
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Ah good point, well I have had a few leaks, which were fixed but they were generally at the actuator (or just in the boot in general) and were the mechanic's issue. The only leak I have gotten from general ware would be from the front bag lead itself. Whilst it is braided it was not up to the challenge of being turned left and right as well as up and down. My mechanic is in the process of getting a better grade of braided pipe to replace it. I was just pleased it was not the bag itself.

 

I was told by my mechanic to air it out as it is simply safer to do so. He isnt even comfortable with my air being in the tank overnight.

 

But we had this discussion about airing it up and down after complaining to the distributor about the lead leaking. The distributor asked "do you lower the car?". We all laughed. The whole ******* point of having air suspension is to raise and lower the car. So I do, not as much as I did when I first got it - but I do quite a lot. Generally when parked only now days or when going up/down shitty drive ways and entrances.

 

Have you got any more photos of your car? Aired out etc? Id love to see how low the front bar is.

 

Oh and as for my controller, it is quite small, with a little screen readout of each bag's PSI - very similar to AirLift 3H (but a cheap chinese knockoff). I have a metal plate stuck to the back of it so I then mount it on a small magnetic air vent mobile phone holder on the drivers side air vent next to the window! I have to kinda move my head to see it, but I don't really need to see it when driving anyways.

Here is one from last year..073b7a1c6c881bd64b91f744377f6722.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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Was this a direct bolt on? Also what part number for the Cadillac pistons?

 

No it’s not direct bolt on,

You need these: https://ctsvbrakeswap.com/products/frs-brz-gt-86-4-piston-ats-caliper-bracket-kit for 4piston calipers

 

For Z6 6 piston calipers

You need these: https://ctsvbrakeswap.com/products/subaru-and-frs-gt86-6-piston-c6-z06-caliper-big-brake-bracket-kit?pr_prod_strat=collection_fallback&pr_rec_pid=4283448393779&pr_ref_pid=1951976980531&pr_seq=uniform

 

 

Had these on for a while now and haven’t had any issues at all it was day/night difference from stock braking.

As for the rear all I did was replaced rotors with Hawk slotted rotors and better pads.

Edited by PATS4LIFE
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Drop off car at dealer to replace steering rack,gave me a 2020 legacy loaner,kinda slower than the 6th gens.��

 

UPDATE:Just got the car back,steering is much more responsive with the new rack and definitely really quiet like if it was new:)but will see if the rattle will comeback.

Edited by PATS4LIFE
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Anyone have a DD turn as tail module installed in their car?

For a week now every time I have my left blinker on and pressing the brake blinker would flash rapidly,this only happens on left blinker,so I though it was the DD module issue and contacted DD about it,so they sent me a new kit and installed it Monday but it’s still left blinker flashes rapidly when foot on brake pedal but once I let off the brake it flashes normal:/

Anyone can give an idea on what could be causing this?thanks

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Anyone have a DD turn as tail module installed in their car?

For a week now every time I have my left blinker on and pressing the brake blinker would flash rapidly,this only happens on left blinker,so I though it was the DD module issue and contacted DD about it,so they sent me a new kit and installed it Monday but it’s still left blinker flashes rapidly when foot on brake pedal but once I let off the brake it flashes normal:/

Anyone can give an idea on what could be causing this?thanks

 

Could it be grounding out on the connections at the tail light or the big gray connector?

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Could it be grounding out on the connections at the tail light or the big gray connector?

 

Thanks,I’ll check those out,I’ll also try to put stock signal back and see if it still does the same thing.

 

UPDATE: figured it out it was front left blinker resistor that hook up on the stock signal wires going bad,but not sure what’s front signal got to do with braking to make it rapidly flash.

Edited by PATS4LIFE
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From someone who comes from a place where there is no snow, I'd like to ask you (and any other "eskimos" :)) ... how long would you normally expect your car to last before it was severely rust affected due to the snow, and the salt used on the roads over there? And that must greatly affect the resale value wouldn't it?
Hey sorry just saw this. Yes rust is reaally bad in Quebec with all the snow plus they use a ton of salt on the roads so it definitely kills resale value. Usually once the car is 4-5 years old you start getting it rustproofed before every winter, for which there are various techniques and shops, plus it is a good idea to get it washed often, even in the winter. If you're lucky enough to have indoor parking that can help too. That's the extent of my wisdom on the subject though, I am not a very experienced car owner at all.

 

Envoyé de mon LG-M703 en utilisant Tapatalk

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