tornichoe

I have these (https://elementfire.com/) at home by the fire place and kitchen. They are nice and compact for the car as well. Haven't had to use them : so can't speak for their performance personally; but they have good reviews on the interwebs

Be sure to check the thread wear and remaining depth, not just miles. Depending on the thread wear rating of tire you get and your driving style, you could burn through rubber faster than you think.

Think the general guidance is not have drastic difference in thread wear between tires; like if you were worn down to 5/32 you wouldn't want to replace one wheel with a new tire or rotate in a tire with 10/32. That large difference in diameter will cause the wheels to spin at differing revolutions per mile. If the difference is 1/32 or even 2/32, I don't think that will cause too much of an issue long term. Street cars and tires, IMHO, aren't built to such small tolerances. You'll have errors propagate along the way from tire manufacturer to your air pressure gauge that will all induce minuscule variations in overall diameter anyway...

Gave the Legacy a shower and hot wax It's usual annual run through the car wash, and did the oil change. With covid and all I had only put on 4700 miles since the last oil change in October last year. Given that it may be sitting in the garage for most of the winter, I decided to throw the winters on the outback this season.

I've been getting close to the 60k as well and was wondering the same. Based on above comments above, I may push changing the plugs till later. Usually do my own oil change yearly in the fall, think ima push that for the spring as well. barely put on 2k this year.

Good luck! The sales folks aren't the easiest to deal with especially after you signed on the dotted line. And the manager may not care much either, coz they know they won't be making any money off of you by you taking the car there for service...

LOL. Those things are nice while they are new

I think the front rotors on the 2.5 Limited and 3.6 are the same size. I had the issue when I ordered a kit from rock auto and they sent me the pads for a 2.5 standard/premium. Good thing on the pads is that the wrong ones won't fit (notches on the caliper body are different) I could totally see it getting mixed up when ordering aftermarket ones, In your case, someone just wasn't paying attention during installation....

Have the guy put some gas in there

Search on top right is your friend. I'm pretty certain I (and likely a few others) have posted the programming card instructions on the forum in the past

you could also just use anything that is narrow enough to fit between the thread and mark using a pencil/ sharp tip marker etc and measure using a regular desk ruler etc (I've used a credit card and a marker) so you don't have to wait. Like others have said, it amazes me how they arrived at how many miles are left Even tire manufacturers only put approximate numbers and they know exactly what compound is being used... I've always been weary of used tires when I get a new to me vehicle after experiencing a blow out and a 180 on the interstate on a car I picked up the day before... You never know how well or poorly they were maintained through their prior life. And you can usually pick up a decent set of 4 for ~500 bucks. It's cheap peace of mind imo. That's just me; don't mean to scare you. See if they will let you check the manufacturing week/year on the tire before they put it on, if they do agree to give you a full set. I've had one dealer try to sneak 5 year old tires that they had sitting in their warehouse. They were new (ish) but the rubber compound breaks down faster than you think with fluctuations in temp and humidity Good luck at the dealer.

Since it's a MY19 (assuming it is less than 36k miles), the factory bumper to bumper warranty should apply. I'd check with SOA if that warranty transfers to you when you purchase the car and if the dealer needs to do any paperwork to have that transfer to you. Those terms and conditions keep changing from year to year, so I'd confirm that. Like others have said, it's a marketing thing. Nothing really is lifetime; and you'll often find things like wear and tear exemptions in the fine print. That will be a harder battle to win and prove that it was a failure due to a defect vs just wear after 150k Unless the CPO has something of value to you, I'd negotiate a discount without the CPO or lifetime and pick up a Subaru Gold Plus warranty for the years/mileage that make sense for your driving habits. In my opinion that is more peace of mind for the buck.

I got a 2020 Outback loaner recently as well and found the engine to be noisy and jerky. The 3.6 is an awesome powerplant and the power delivery is so smooth... Not a huge fan of all the ac/blower controls being on the touch screen; but that's where everyone is going, so we won't have a choice in a few years time. Going to be difficult to let go when the time comes; my wife loves the interior and all the touch bling.

I want to do this some day. The fogs on the legacy are a joke

And its usually ~$7 at your local walmart. If you are doing the rotors and pads, you'll already have everything opened up; I'd bleed & flush them unless there is a record of that done in the last 10/15k miles...

Had the car sit in the garage for a month in freezing temps while I was traveling. 30 days later, it started with no hesitation using the remote start. I was debating if I should get a new battery before this winter, but this factory one is holding strong I'll be leaving it alone for now. Not all batteries are made equal and I'm lucky to get the good one!

Also, most newer cars (if not all) come with a rust warranty for 5-8 years of some kind. Our Subarus come with 5. https://www.subaru.com/guides/legacy/my16/Own/Warranties Not sure what exactly it covers, but you can be certain that it won't fall apart. New manufacturing processes dip the whole chassis and body into charged baths for the coatings to stick to the metal. If you take decent care, you are usually good for 10-15 years with no major issues; YMMV based on a multitude of factors.

Wow! Good to know. would never have thought to look at the remote start, had this happened to me. Did you have the Subaru one or an aftermarket?

Dealer confirmed that there was "a lot" of air in the system. They bled the system and all is good again Guess I got lucky when I bled the Legacy..

Thanks! While I can't guarantee this didn't happen, I did take precautions to fill the reservoir every 5-7 pumps or the brake pedal. May be I got lucky when I bled the legacy and the same could have happened there. Don't have the confidence to take the master out and mess around; probably don't have all the tools either... Will leave it to the dealer for now, can't afford being a car down during the week..

Tried this yesterday and didn't help. Used the same method to bleed yesterday and the added the same amount of fluid I bled (refilling the reservoir after bleeding each caliper). The reservoir is above the max line Will try pumping brakes again and see if it helps. Got an appointment with Subaru this evening either way. It's the wife's car so not taking chances..

After completing the brake rotor, pad and fluid flush work on the 15 legacy, I did the pads and fluid flush on the 16 outback; exact same process. At the end of it I have no brake function. When I push it all the way down it catches a little. Assuming it's a master/slave cylinder that was about to go bust, went out in the flushing process.. Will be taking it to the dealer later today or tomorrow, but was wondering if there was something that I missed looking at. All bleeder valves are tight and no leaks there. Don't see any other leaks anywhere obvious.

Just fyi. Covering it won’t work. It operates on the reverse logic; when it doesn’t see any light, it flips the brights on.

at 4/32 those goodyears as good as toast, even in rain let alone snow.. I'd put the winters on and try before making assumptions.

I checked a couple of times in the first few weeks after installing them to check for any gaps, moisture, heat/burn marks etc. But after that, never went back to specifically look at the bulbs. I do check fluids and a quick glance under the hood every few months, but these bulbs are on the under side, so unless I specifically took the bulb out and looked at them, I would never have noticed.The bulb holder from the outside was fine. The bulb itself melted and separated from the base.