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well....crap. please help


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The OCV controls that. It does need oil pressure to advance the timing. But if there is any junk in there not allowing it to be in the zero position then...it might throw a P011 or P021 (depending on which side of the engine). But I don’t know how much deviation triggers the code...or if it only throws the code when it can’t advance the timing.

Another thought...

Have you pushed on all the valves with the cams out to check and see if they move freely and aren’t hanging up in the guides?

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Your engine is super strange man.

 

In any case, even if the valve clearance does not appear to be the culprit for this very issue, you would still have problems down the road with a warm engine at some point, like misfires and stuff like that.

 

Maybe you just need to put it back together and get that engine to operating temp, push that thing to the max; then somehow the rings will provide a better seal once again? :confused:

 

All I know is my 05 sat the past 6 months while I was doing a lot of work on it (mostly transmission stuff). Then when it was time to crank, she sounded like she completely lost compression. I freaked out. Thought it was timing and stuff. I ended up cranking the engine for quite a while and then she finally ran. Then I drove her like I stole it for a couple of days, pushed her and stuff. She now runs great, no misfires at all. I don't know. YMMV...

 

Take a break though.

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No binding or hang ups? Squirt fresh oil in the guides to make sure? Besides that and the intake AVCS hyd actuator...I’ve gotta smoke a couple more. How much do you trust your leak down tester and what pressure you testing at?
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You had her at parade rest and didn’t see any sign of that...pistons and cross hatching looked good. Is it possible to borrow another leak down tester? I don’t know if I would put her back in the car yet.

AVCS hyd actuator in sprocket not going to home position

I would want to blue the valve seats and make sure they are seating proper

check to see if there is any slop or binding between the valve stem and guides

Valve guide position in head (making sure a guide didn’t drop interfering with the valve)

check if #2 and #4 have the same distance from the top of the cylinder at both TDC and BDC.

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AJ, the engine is already in the car. everything you're suggesting requires me to pull it out again AND remove the head. If I do that, I'm just taking the head to a machine shop.

 

I haven't checked #4 yet, but given that cyl2 had the same reading as before, i'd bet cyl4 also reads the same as before. I'll double check that tomorrow as well.

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This thing is nuts.

Valve clearance, check.

cold leakdown, check

timing (teeth count, timing marks) check

cam sprocket properly aligned with dowel pin, check

 

what's left??

ringland?

headgasket not properly seated?

 

 

 

Back to my question though. Regardless of your current compression reading in #4, if timing is off and is affecting cylinder #2, would cylinder #4 be affected too?

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yes, cyl4 would also be affected.

 

I honestly don't think the headgasket was the problem to begin with. when I bought the car, it was misfiring in 2&4 under 3k RPM. typically misfires on the same bank are a result of a blown headgasket, so that's what we went with first. clearly, that wasn't the issue. the car never overheated either.

 

here's a question: if, for whatever reason, I had a bent valve stem, would the leakdown test show that?

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Actually, from my 'humble' experience on the forum, almost every single time I've seen reports of misfires on a given bank, it was due to bad timing; which would make sense.

 

I wonder if your cam sprocket is working right. Then again, it would affect cylinder 4 too no??? Dang it.

 

As for your question regarding bent valve stem, I am not sure.

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And I still wonder if one of the sprockets are mounted wrong for some reason on one of the cams so the timing of either intake or exhaust is off. A broken guiding pin and you would get that. Or the guiding pin forced into the wrong hole in the sprocket - it's aluminum sprockets from what I understand.

 

At least if there's something that causes both cylinders in the same bank to have bad compression it has to be something common. Or a crack in the block between the cylinders that only is widening when the pressure gets high enough so it won't show up on a leak-down test. Pretty far fetched though.

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And I still wonder if one of the sprockets are mounted wrong for some reason on one of the cams so the timing of either intake or exhaust is off. A broken guiding pin and you would get that. Or the guiding pin forced into the wrong hole in the sprocket - it's aluminum sprockets from what I understand.

 

It's true but you really can't mess up the exhaust cam sprocket (the dowel pin is exposed so you can easily see if you messed up the install prior to installing the bolt). The intake one OTOH, yes you can mess that up. But OP is aware of it. So I am sure he was extra careful in reinstall it right. And also, it would have to affect cylinder 4 compression results since timing would be off no?

 

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It's true but you really can't mess up the exhaust cam sprocket. The intake one OTOH, yes you can mess that up. But OP is aware of it. So I am sure he was extra careful in reinstall it right. And also, it would have to affect cylinder 4 compression results since timing would be off no?

And at least before the cylinder 4 compression was bad too, so I wouldn't be surprised if it's still bad.

 

Considering the situation I'd definitely take a look there to make sure and rule it out. What's the worst that can happen? And maybe someone has enough to give the angle between timing mark and first cam lobe or something on known correct cams/sprockets?

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