Mod Recommendations for Daily Driver?

[RottenJeeves]

Hey guys.

Looking for some suggestions.

 

I have a 05 5EAT LGT.

She is bone stock right now but I would like to do some light performance mods.

 

My goal...

Subaru Rumble. No drone but not quiet.

Keep mpg and general drive-ability.

Keep within a budget.

Dont hack up the car or jimmy rig.

 

Perhaps you guys can give me some tips?

Cobb? Muffler delete? Opensource?

Don't know much about these cars yet so I apologize in advance.

 

Thanks.

[Silinc3r]

Opensource is the cheapest route. Cobb AP is very nice though for doing the flashes on the ECU yourself as well as having the ability to easily log and view parameters.

 

Most folks go with Invidia Q300 cat back, pretty much any downpipe and a decatted uppipe.

 

Intake isn't really need except for the noise and same with BOV. Stock TMIC holds to about 18 psi and if you want to stick with it you'll want to get ahold of Barmanbean and get the bulletproof kit or build it yourself. Keeps the stocker from separating itself from the end tanks.

 

Biggest thing is to find out what maintenace has and needs to be done. There are a couple guys that have great builds and threads detailing this. Covertrussian and Maxcapacity are 2 good ones. Even mine has the general stuff that needs to be done.

 

If you have a vf40 turbo you'll want to llok into atleast a vf48(updated LGT) or vf52(08+ WRX)

 

That's some what of the gist but you'll want to spend some time searching so you don't have to ask repeated question and makes it much easier to narrow things down for us guys trying to answer.

 

Welcome aboard!

[RottenJeeves]

Car just had new turbo, all the belts/pulleys, water pump and thermostat. Also has new brakes, tires, and control arms and bushings. No leaks. 101k on the clock.

 

I think right now I am looking for more budget performance to start. I hear talk of "stage 1" but really know what that means. All the exhaust you mentioned seems expensive but maybe I am wrong. I know from years ago when it comes to modding its easy to spend thousands without even trying.

Hopefully I didnt just make this more complicated.

 

-RJ

[Merc6]

What he said except VF46(instead of VF48) is the drop in updated turbo.The VF52 is what a lot of us are running but you need to do a few things to make it feel at home w/o issues like a tune specifically for it.

 

Depending on what "A budget" is:

 

*STi Up Pipe

*Delete banjo bolt filters

*Have a shop toss on straight through mufflers in place of the oem ones out back with flanges so you can go back stock

*Opensource tune for the EGT deleted in up pipe and correct stock map flaws.

 

If the budget is much larger than above, toss in a down pipe and tune for that too.

[Max Capacity]

Car just had new turbo, all the belts/pulleys, water pump and thermostat. Also has new brakes, tires, and control arms and bushings. No leaks. 101k on the clock.

 

I think right now I am looking for more budget performance to start. I hear talk of "stage 1" but really know what that means. All the exhaust you mentioned seems expensive but maybe I am wrong. I know from years ago when it comes to modding its easy to spend thousands without even trying.

Hopefully I didnt just make this more complicated.

 

-RJ

 

Why the new turbo ? That's a big red flag !!!

 

Keep an eye on metal in the oil.

 

Again, WHY THE NEW TURBO ?

 

Don't want you to be this weeks, I just bought the car with a new turbo and the engine blew on the drive home, guy.

[RottenJeeves]

Do you have an opensource you recommend?

Does it really make sense to replace my turbo when I just put a brand new one in not that long ago?

[RottenJeeves]

Why the new turbo ? That's a big red flag !!!

 

Keep an eye on metal in the oil.

 

Again, WHY THE NEW TURBO ?

 

Don't want you to be this weeks, I just bought the car with a new turbo and the engine blew on the drive home, guy.

 

Why is it a red flag?

I bought the car with a new turbo and with all the work mentioned from a small town dealer. I didn't ask questions because I figured it was a good thing to replace old parts with new ones.

[quick4dr]

CHECK YOUR OIL!!!

 

did I mention check your oil, banjo filters, ocv's

 

before modding give it a legit inspection,

[MilesA]

Why is it a red flag?

I bought the car with a new turbo and with all the work mentioned from a small town dealer. I didn't ask questions because I figured it was a good thing to replace old parts with new ones.

It's a red flag because the old turbo would not have been replaced unless it failed for some reason. There is a pattern of more turbo failures and/or engine damage when this occurs. You need to read some of the sticky threads about it. Please don't ask everybody to repeat themselves, just research and read. Learn about the turbo oiling issues related to the banjo bolts. Learn about the 2005-2006 catted uppipe.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/turbo-failure-wiki-173358.html

[solidxsnake]

See also: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4840856&postcount=122

 

GOOD INFORMATION HERE FOR NEWBIES TO READ. #10 is the key to LGT Ownership Bliss...

*stolen from BarManBean's post...

A lot of folks here seem to be asking the same questions, but in the wrong way. Questions seem to include bashing of the '05 model year, bashing of stock turbos, oil lines, blah blah blah, but all are asking what to do to increase reliability of the LGT drivetrain+. I'm interested in putting together a list of "reliability modifications" for LGTs. I'll start off, please chime in and I'll change the original post to reflect input.

 

1. Remove cat from up pipe, if necessary (05/06 model years included cat in up pipe)
   
   • Any up pipe that fits an 02-11 STI will fit your 05-09 LGT (though not all of these pipes will necessarily be catless)
     

 

[*]Install upgraded oil lines (Infamous products recommended by many)

[*]KillerB oil pickup to prevent starvation

[*]Check/top off engine oil on every fill up. (yes, this is a 'mod'. if you don't do this you won't get much sympathy when your turbo dies due to oil starvation. these engines eat oil, get used to it)

• Do an oil analysis (i.e. Blackstone) once you settle on an oil/filter combination that works for you. Should confirm that you OCI is adequate.
  

 

[*]For those with automatic transmissions, drain/refill transmission fluid every 5-7k miles...Alternatively, complete a full 5EAT DIY flush once every 30k miles--this may be easier since it's only once every couple of years for most people (DIY Flush info here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...sh-197248.html.)

[*]Let your engine/oil/other fluids warm up before you race a civic. for rationale please see notes from #4. it's a mod, don't be a 'tard.

[*]Drain/refill differentials every 30k miles. For 5EATs this will include both the front and the rear differentials. For 5MTs this only applies to the rear differential (front differential shares fluid with the transmission).

[*]Replace timing belt, tensioners, water pump at or before 105k miles.

[*]Flush brake fluid every two years (at a minimum)

[*]Stop driving your car. :lol:

Other potential "trouble spots" that are not "reliability related":

 

1. Disconnect DRLs to prevent shortened headlight lifespan
   
2. Inspect fuel lines for deterioration.
   
3. CV boot under downpipe, recommended to check regularly (i.e. during oil changes) for wear.
   
4. OEM LCA bushings known to tear; many aftermarket replacements available.
   
5. Replace swaybar endlinks with aftermarket parts to reduce "clunks" in the front end.
   
6. A new tune (pro, e-tune, AP) can help to prevent burned valves
   
7. Install guages for oil pressure/temp and boost to track any significant changes and diagnose problems as they arise.
   
8. Check wheel bearings prior to 100k miles / 8 yrs. Subaru will replace noisy bearings through these service intervals under warranty.
   

[Max Capacity]

Every week at least one new member comes on a with this type story, with a engine problem after a new turbo.

 

We need to know why the turbo was replaced and if all the metal was removed from the engine oil system.

[dgoodhue]

Why is it a red flag?

I bought the car with a new turbo and with all the work mentioned from a small town dealer. I didn't ask questions because I figured it was a good thing to replace old parts with new ones.

 

How many miles have you put on the car since you bought it?

[Sparkey]

Every week at least one new member comes on a with this type story, with a engine problem after a new turbo.

 

Wouldnt that be nice if us plebs did research BEFORE buying the car?

 

To the OP: If on a tight budget, stay stock... Stay stock as long as you can!!! For the love of god... cherish it!

[RottenJeeves]

CHECK YOUR OIL!!!

 

did I mention check your oil, banjo filters, ocv's

 

before modding give it a legit inspection,

 

It's a red flag because the old turbo would not have been replaced unless it failed for some reason. There is a pattern of more turbo failures and/or engine damage when this occurs. You need to read some of the sticky threads about it. Please don't ask everybody to repeat themselves, just research and read. Learn about the turbo oiling issues related to the banjo bolts. Learn about the 2005-2006 catted uppipe.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/turbo-failure-wiki-173358.html

 

Coincidentally I had the car in the shop for unrelated issues. I had them check over all mentioned above. Everything looks clean. I guess its safe to start modding...

[MilesA]

Coincidentally I had the car in the shop for unrelated issues. I had them check over all mentioned above. Everything looks clean. I guess its safe to start modding...

Let's hope so. We don't want to see bad things happen to good people.

[JustCallMeNick]

If you're on a budget, don't bother with a catback because it won't give you any power, only noise. Same with an aftermarket intake, although the intake comes with some additional risks unless you're tuned for it.

 

Stage 1 is just a tune basically. Stage 2 is a downpipe, uppipe, and tune. Stage 2 will give you a nice power boost and costs only a little more than a noisy exhaust.

 

Often when a turbo is replaced it's because it fails catastrophically as opposed to "is nearing the end of its life and preventatively needs to be replaced). When this happens, bits of metal from it break off and hide in the engine oil system. Then they come back to haunt you later on.

 

I didn't know any of this crap before I bought my car either. It's part of the turbo Subaru right of passage.

 

As some other people mentioned - do some research on removing the banjo bolt filter and replacing the catted uppipe with a catless one. These are both steps to take to prevent premature turbo failure. The banjo bolt filter gets clogged and starves the turbo of oil. The catted uppipe can lose pieces of the cat which then directly collide with the turbo internally.

 

The Invidia Q300 catback is not exactly inconspicious... Full disclosure, I've never heard it in person - only on YouTube videos. My impression is that it sounds good on partial throttle but when you're giving it the beans it sounds embarrassing like CIVICS 'R' US.

[The 2Fiver]

My impression is that it sounds good on partial throttle but when you're giving it the beans it sounds embarrassing like CIVICS 'R' US.

 

The only false statement in that post

 

You need the turboback for a true stage 2

[JustCallMeNick]

LOL

[Merc6]

Here goes the list...

 

Unofficial Legacy GT “Stage Upgrade” Definitions

 

Stage 0: Stock with or without; panel filter / intake, or pulley

 

Stage 1: Stage 0 plus an upgraded ECU map/tune

 

Stage 1.5: Stage 0 plus a down pipe, and basic stage 2 map/tune

 

Stage 2: Up pipe, down pipe, upgraded stage 2 ECU map/tune. With or without Stage 0

 

Stage 2.5: Stage 2 plus a header, cat back exhaust, intercooler upgrade, further upgraded ECU map/tune

 

Stage 3: Stage 2.5 plus upgraded turbo, and stock fuel system

 

Stage 3.5: Stage 2.5 plus upgraded turbo and upgraded fuel system

 

Stage 4: Stage 3 or 3.5 plus upgraded heads or a full engine build

 

Stage 4.5: Stage 3 or 3.5 with both upgraded heads and a full engine build

 

Stage 5: Let’s dare to dream!!! Maybe fully built H6 Twin Turbo???

 

*Having an upgraded wastegate actuator, boost control solenoid, or TGV deletes are just pluses and do not fit into any one “stage” category.

 

**If you are running a methanol injection system you simply add a “+” to your Stage. I.E. Stage 2.5 +

 

LOL totally missed the "NEW TURBO" post. Here is the next step if the shop hasn't. Before my engine went, my dealer said "We don't see anything wrong with the car after we swapped the plugs. We can tear it down to see if internal damage was done but not much else between where we are now and full tear down to make that kind of assessment."

 

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/other-products/oil-analysis-services/oil-analyzers-test-kit-ups-pre-paid/?code=KIT02-EA

 

Looking back on my original engine and turbo, not swapping out the oil cooler was not worth the $200 I saved that day.

[RottenJeeves]

You guys are scaring me. The mechanic assured me that there was no issue and that everything looked good. Like I mentioned he checked the ocv, banjo filter and oil and didn't find anything alarming.

 

 

Also what do you guys think about nameless axle back muffler delete? Seems like a good place to start.

[henhead]

Start with a cattless up pipe. That should be your first order of business. Those cats can fail and take your new turbo down with it. After that I'd get off the factory tune and go "stage 1", for this you can either pick up a used accessport or get an E-tune. These should almost be considered maintenance items as they will only improve the lifespan of your engine.

[Cornerz]

Did the mechanic remove the banjo filters, or check and reinstall them?

 

The concern with the turbo replacement is that if the previous turbo shed metal into the oil system, it has the ability to hide in the oil cooler and many other places. Most turbo failures will take the bearings out.

 

The first thing I did on mine when I got it was an oil system flush. Subaru used to sell a crankcase flush solvent, but my local tech said to pick up any name brand flush solvent, and use it as per the label, then change the oil, then again in 1000 km.

 

Last tip - don't ignore misfires. I had a misfire that didn't throw a code, but the stumble was obvious. Turned out an injector failed, burnt the valve, and the repair could have been avoided had I just looked into the stumble instead of assuming it was Subaru rumble.

[RottenJeeves]

Did the mechanic remove the banjo filters, or check and reinstall them?

 

The concern with the turbo replacement is that if the previous turbo shed metal into the oil system, it has the ability to hide in the oil cooler and many other places. Most turbo failures will take the bearings out.

 

The first thing I did on mine when I got it was an oil system flush. Subaru used to sell a crankcase flush solvent, but my local tech said to pick up any name brand flush solvent, and use it as per the label, then change the oil, then again in 1000 km.

 

Last tip - don't ignore misfires. I had a misfire that didn't throw a code, but the stumble was obvious. Turned out an injector failed, burnt the valve, and the repair could have been avoided had I just looked into the stumble instead of assuming it was Subaru rumble.

 

Not sure what did to check the banjo. I will have to ask him when I pick up my car tonight.

[covertrussian]

Not sure what did to check the banjo. I will have to ask him when I pick up my car tonight.

 

Removing all banjo filters.

 

Your mechanic can send me $5 in the mail

[SGT Daddy]

Welcome, I don't think to scare you is the goal more like relating some of the issues that have been faced. I had a banjo bolt fail at 100,xxx and cost me a turbo. I replaced it with a VF52 and that was 78,xxx miles ago. To wanting a nice sound without being overly loud, I have liked my Magna Flow Cat-Back. I also recommend the COBB AP v3 for the car as it's a nice tool to have. That and the ability to data log comes in handy when tracking down any issues that come up. You did not mention if you are looking at any suspension upgrades or just a little bit more power, again welcome and enjoy your new wagon. I have had mine 8 years and over 140,xxx miles. I second the TMIC upgrade from Barmanbean, I would also recommend the new T-fitting from Turkeylord as well.