Underdog Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 Both the Koyo and Mishimoto are available in standard core thickness (stock size) and extra-capacity versions. The extra capacity is really not necessary on a street driven car. Trimming both ends of the upper hose usually provides adequate clearance, but it is possible that individual tolerances, worn engine or radiator mounts, or other aftermarket parts may reduce the clearance such that contact between the hose and fan or P/S pulley may occur. The surest way to eliminate this problem is a standard thickness radiator, as the OP is considering. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derp Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 I went Koyo and have had zero issue. Buy nice or buy twice IMO. I could suck start a snow blower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashtone Posted September 1, 2016 Author Share Posted September 1, 2016 Mishimoto hose clearance with fan. Radiator is KoyoRad HyperV (I thought silicon didn't expand like the OEM ones?) http://i.imgur.com/S1U44fN.jpg To rear pulley http://i.imgur.com/jIQMQCl.jpg That's what I'm after! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rapture Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 I cannot believe this thread or the length of it Just trim the friggin hose man I feel retarded after reading this crap Is this for real lol Im almost thinking this is trolling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utc_pyro Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 Hey I had these issues with the stock hose! You can actually modify the fans to get more clearance, and pull the radiator forward to get more clearance. See the top how you have a gap (like in Rhitter's picture)? Yeah we're going to get rid of that. Take a step drill bit and drill out the mounting tab on the fan. You want to make it the hole BIGGER than the mounting nub on the radiator, but SMALLER than the bolt flange. This allows the fan to move closer to the radiator. The other thing you can do is get the GrimmSpeed cooling panel. Its radiator mounts are slotted so you can pull the entire thing forward. I had to do both to get clearance from both the fans and power steering pulley. Still took trimming, but it was much easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashtone Posted September 1, 2016 Author Share Posted September 1, 2016 To all the posters who think trimming hoses is the answer: you are not understanding my problem. With that big Mishi radiator in my car, there is no room for any hose expansion. It's not that the hose won't fit; it's that once it gets up to temperature and and the hose expands at all, it hits the fan. Silicon hoses aren't bulletproof; they do expand. Look at the pictures I posted. There is less than 1/8 of an inch clearance on either side of that upper hose. My fan didn't get bigger, and that pulley didn't get bigger. If you've had exactly the same set up in your car for two or three years with no problems, God bless you! I hope it lasts forever. Mine lasted two years of normal non-abusive driving, and failed. So I am not going to put it back exactly the same way it was and just hope for the best. I need my cars to be able to go anywhere at any time without me worrying whether that system I modified is going to fail. So anything I change needs to be at or above OEM specs. Safety and reliability depend on well-engineered modifications. Placing a coolant hose within striking distance of a spinning fan or pulley is not a well-engineered modification, it's a problem waiting to happen. I am not interested in driving a grenade with the pin pulled out. I'm looking for a better solution, and it seems like Toyo has my answer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rougeben83 Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 show us the rest of the radiator to give us a better idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 So here's what I am doing: Koto part number VH2778. Specs show 36mm deep, and claim OEM fitment. They specifically mention the space issues bigger radiators can cause. The Koyo is almost 3/4" thinner than the mishimoto in my car. That should be more than enough to leave clearance for hose expansion. Looks to be a well made product. We'll see. And I'm going back to OEM hoses. Hopefully, if someone else tries to find a solution for this problem, they'll find this thread. @OP, I guess for some reason I thought I had a thicker radiator. Turns out I have the KoyoRad VH2778. With that radiator you should be able to get the clearance I have. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anavrin351 Posted September 2, 2016 Share Posted September 2, 2016 Depends which rad also. The 3 core is thicker than the 2. If he has a 3 row, and people commenting have the 2, that's the difference. Gotta compare apples to apples. Looks like OP may have the 3 row, and that's why the hoses aren't fitting. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted September 2, 2016 Share Posted September 2, 2016 Based off the FS thread, he does have the 3 row. Here's another good picture from the FS thread. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=218293&d=1445156558 Personally I'd still go with an aftermarket slim fan, before replacing with a plastic radiator. I understand your concern with zip ties, maybe you could run stainless steel zip ties, or come up with another mounting option as well. *At the same time, I understand the appeal of being able to just put in a new radiator, and being done with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 2, 2016 Share Posted September 2, 2016 I thought slim fans were not as good as the stock? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gex Posted September 2, 2016 Share Posted September 2, 2016 I have the three row Mishimoto with stock hoses trimmed to fit and stock fans. I drive the car hard and have never had an issue . I would make sure the radiator is fixed in the gromets under the front bumper and get some Gates OEM fit hoses then trim to fit. I believe it is 1.5" off the upper hose and 1" from the lower hose. I've also worked on H20 mans old car although that was before the Mishimoto radiator was installed. I vacuumed a mouse nest out from under the intake manifold and installed the catless uppipe on the car. It was in fabulous shape when I was working on it. You're welcome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted September 2, 2016 Share Posted September 2, 2016 I thought slim fans were not as good as the stock? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk After posting that I did come across some discussions about slim fans maybe causing problems, 3 row radiators being worse than 2 row radiators, aluminum radiators being bad because they leak, lots of stuff. I assumed running one slim fan would be ok, but maybe my assumption is wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike07LGT Posted September 3, 2016 Share Posted September 3, 2016 Why did it take 2 years to present a problem? 03 WRB WRX (RIP) 04 JBP STI (sold) 07 DGM Legacy GT (RIP) 12 OBP STI (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashtone Posted September 3, 2016 Author Share Posted September 3, 2016 I have the three row Mishimoto with stock hoses trimmed to fit and stock fans. I drive the car hard and have never had an issue . I would make sure the radiator is fixed in the gromets under the front bumper and get some Gates OEM fit hoses then trim to fit. I believe it is 1.5" off the upper hose and 1" from the lower hose. I've also worked on H20 mans old car although that was before the Mishimoto radiator was installed. I vacuumed a mouse nest out from under the intake manifold and installed the catless uppipe on the car. It was in fabulous shape when I was working on it. You're welcome! Cool! Wish I were there/you were here. I'm still looking for a shop here in Colorado Springs. He told me about the mouse nest, and thanks for the verification on the catless uppipe. I read about the issues with the OEM uppipe spewing stuff into the turbo, and another LGT owner looking under my hood said it still had the catted uppipe. I guess he was mistaken. Apparently, that may cause me a problem when getting this car smogged. Let's hope not. I'm told the OEM uppipe is expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashtone Posted September 3, 2016 Author Share Posted September 3, 2016 Why did it take 2 years to present a problem? Because my luck ran out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gex Posted September 3, 2016 Share Posted September 3, 2016 Car has an OEM STI catless Uppipe. We also took out the banjo bolt filter on the back of the passenger side head/oil feed. The filter was spotless when we removed it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashtone Posted September 4, 2016 Author Share Posted September 4, 2016 Car has an OEM STI catless Uppipe. We also took out the banjo bolt filter on the back of the passenger side head/oil feed. The filter was spotless when we removed it. Thank you for clarifying this. H2Oman did tell me that the catless uppipe had been installed, but the Subaru guy who looked at it may have been looking for an aftermarket uppipe. Is the banjo bolt you mentioned the other one in the block, as opposed to the infamous one in the turbo oil feed? I read about that on a different thread here while looking for radiator info, wondering whether it had been removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gex Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 The one we removed is the infamous banjo bolt that is for the turbo oil feed line off the back of the passenger side head right behind the Uppipe. It is the one most commonly referred to as the problem banjo bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashtone Posted September 5, 2016 Author Share Posted September 5, 2016 So the other one is not an issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gex Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 Nope the other one should be fine. That car has pretty much all the major preventative maintenance done to it. The turbo also looked pretty fresh when I was working on it and had 0 shaft play. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 So the other one is not an issue? If you are due for a Timing belt change go for it, if not, you pretty much get into to timing belt change procedures to get to it due to where it is located. You can unscrew it but not enough to remove or fully inspect it IIRC. The timing belt cover backing and cam gears need to come off. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 You can cut off the raised part of the banjo bolt behind the cover, the bolt will then come out. Thanks to HAMMERDOWN for that tip. He has a thread and pictures here. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonaLisa Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 Avcs banjo bolt screen https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=http%3A%2F%2Flegacygt%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D228189&share_tid=228189&share_fid=5383&share_type=t Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 You can cut off the raised part of the banjo bolt behind the cover, the bolt will then come out. Thanks to HAMMERDOWN for that tip. He has a thread and pictures here. "Here" link not working Maxx, let me help you out. vvvv http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5355816&postcount=1097 Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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