rougeben83

Just putting it out there. If you own a 2005-2006 & never had a use for the heated seats or it stopped working and dont really need the controls anymore, the base model legacy/outback had coin cubby in the same location. PN 92173AG00AWA

You can open the rear diff cover and count the number of teeth on the ring and the number of teeth on the pinion - that will give you the ratio of the rear diff.

Had similar issues after lowering to LGT height. It seems to vary depending on your alignment and how worn your bushings are (more deflection = more lateral wheel movement when suspension moves through its travel).

OEM is reinforced rubber lines. SS lines are a "feel" modification. If you can't tell the difference in your pedal feel to begin with, it may not be worth while for you. I've had 6 years on my current goodridge lines, 8 on my previous car. 0 issues. Coating is irrelevant - some even say that the coating has a tendency to trap moisture and dirt at the connections, leading to increased corrosion. The only difference in coating vs. non coating is you have to be much more careful nothing is touching the uncoated lines - they can and will rub their way into anything (had one line that I did not check the routing rub on the inside rim of my front wheel; the line was fine, I had a shallow ring around the wheel rim where the line rubbed after only a couple of miles).

I parted out my heavily modified 03 over the course of a year and a half. I ended up making about as much as selling a stock, running one, with some parts left over to go into my next subaru. I wouldn't recommend that route unless you know you have parts that people are willing to pay for, otherwise, BH/BE's sell for around $2500-4500 all day for decent, running example, so it may be better to just have it towed away for scrap value.

silver, gunmetal, flat black. I did the last two when I de-woodgrained mine.

Rev A-D are designation for JDM models of Legacy, mainly dealing with the trim and minor exterior details. Rev A-C is the same as USDM cars, Rev D has a slightly different headlight, hood shape and bumpers.

Only took like 6 months of dicking around... https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/lenovo-smartphone-into-center-cubby-installation-diy-280961.html

Time to install into the car. Removal of the center stack has been covered on the forums. You really only need to do it to run the USB power, and to connect the phone to your headunit (fig 1). I chose to run the usb power to the DC power inside the center console (fig 2). The hardest part was getting a step drill inside to get a large enough hole to fit the USB plug through. The center cubby w/ smartphone simply snaps in place. It is a little harder to pop out than the stock cubby, but nothing impossible. After that, it was a matter of putting everything back together.

Next is trimming the side ducts to fit the USB and headphone jack. There is minimal cutting when compared to the Nexus install. Get low profile/90 deg adapters. Depending on how slim they are will determine how much horizontal play your vent will have. The usb adapter was a little thick, so I only have minimal side to side on the passenger side (fig 1). The driver's side vent is fine (fig 2). I used black windshield adhesive to seal up the plugs (fig 3).

Install Most of this can be done off car, an excellent project for a rainy day. With the center cubby/trim off the car, you will need to take off the center cubby and side ducts (reqs t10 or t8 star bits IIRC). Test fit the smartphone (fig 1) and you'll see how close everything fits without any trimming. The pieces I had to modify were primarily cutting sections of the cubby assembly to hold the phone in place and to fill in the empty space on the sides (fig 2). I measured and trimmed the side pieces of the cubby, sanded them down (fig 3), then cut some additional plastic to fill in the holes (a used gift card) and epoxied on top of the side pieces. Spray paint black and mount (fig 4). Next, I trimmed the lower half of the cubby to secure the lower part of the phone to the center trim (fig 5). I cut an additional plastic straight section, notched the ends, and used it to secure the top part of the phone to the side ducts (fig 6). Using double sided tape on the bottom, sides, and top will minimized vibrations and squeaks. Also transferred the metal "heat shield" from the bottom of the cubby to the top of the trip computer.

This is to document the rationale and install process that went into putting a (relatively) modern smartphone/tablet into my outback. Why? The most popular "carputer" option for these cars seem to have been the Nexus tablet. I did not like that particular option because 1) the platform is already 5 years old 2) no easily accessible physical power button 3) Needing to use custom ROMS to make it car-friendly 4)loss of the trip computer (I do like the ability to select distance, temp, etc), which would also trigger your airbag light. 5) cost of a JDM nav bezel. After some measurement and search of possible smartphone options, I came up this: Lenovo Phab 2 Pro https://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-ZA1H0003US-Unlocked-Android-Smartphone/dp/B01M4LBRTG You can get the Pro model for around $250 on ebay, (I paid $204 for a used one on amazon), or a regular Phab 2 model for less than $200 (less ram, no AR camera). How? Installation was pretty easy, moreover, if you screw up, you can easily get replacement center-stack vent/cubby assemblies for $35-50. There was no cutting involved of the center surround. You do need to cut holes into the sides of the vents, you lose some side-to-side movement depending on how thick of a usb/headphone jack you use to connect the phablet. I trimmed part of the center cubby to fill in the small space left after mounting the phone in its place - it also adds extra stability for the phone with doublesided tape/epoxy. Connectivity is handled by a USB cable, bluetooth, and a headphone jack. I already have an aftermarket stereo, so the headphone jack plugged right in. If using the OEM headunit, you can easily get the aux jack mod and/or bluetooth module for it. Usb cable is for power - I opted to run it under the shifter trim and into the center console 12v jack. I was thinking of using a 12v -USB adapter wired behind the headunit, but I decided the former as it was easier to route, and you can use a USB extension to plug the phone into a laptop if you want to add files, update, etc. How about the software? I needed to only change a couple of things in the stock android OS to adapt it for car use. I turned on developer options and enabled "Stay awake whenever charging", I downloaded an app to maintain landscape orientation at all times, and lastly, I enabled accessibility options so I can have a floating button to access the top bar (some of the upper touch areas are hard to reach to swipe down). With these three settings, the unit is always on when I turn on the car, screen turns off when the car is off (more on turning music on/off), and will always stay in landscape orientation. The phone remains powered on/standby when the car is off. I found I can leave the car unused for over 6 days and still have enough battery for it to turn on when I started the car again (and resume charging). This is a non issue, however as I can always use the paperclip method to turn the phone back on again. How does it work? Quite well. Modern smartphones are pretty standalone, and have robust hardware, so I have GPS, streaming, video playback. You have the option of getting monthly data, or even prepaid data for this phone (I left a SIM card in place in case I ever want to), or do what I did and connect to your cellphone's wifi hotspot. I found the audio jack sound quality to be highly dependent on the cable and headunit you use. The low profile jack I used did not have good shielding and I would occasionally get buzzing on the line. Bluetooh was much better and the unit will also stop playback when the car is off. The way the smartphone fits is that it is slightly tilted - this makes it easier to see in direct sunlight (fig 1), partial (fig 2), and at night (fig 3) and there is a space along the top bezel where you can still press the power and volume buttons (for resets and debug mode) with just a bent paperclip.

Yeah, people have this thing with the OEM CV axles specifically, as if they're made of unobtanium. It's just like any other axle out there, it will wear down with time. Anyway, it's good you were able to fix it relatively cheaply.

Spec B wheels are 7.5" wide. Nothing really all that special.

you just need a T-adapter to go in between the BOV vacuum line to your boost gauge. I have an VDO analog one, nothing fancy, but works well.

that's fine, those are the diagnostic plugs - you connect them if you want to run diagnostics on the ECU (or make changes, like during a flash). Otherwise they remain unconnected and tucked away.

Yup, exactly this. It has never changed. LGT = 315mm or 12.3in front rotor (30mm thicc), everything else uses a 295mm/11.8in rotor (25mm thicc). The rears go from non-vented to vented on the GT. The diameter stays the same (290mm).

stick a paperclip in the holes left by the nubs

check the wiper arm linkage that connects to the motor.

When the 07+ HU were still selling for over $200, it made very little sense to me to go down that route vs the JDM double din and even a single DIN aftermarket HU, which ended up being $100 more. I had already upgraded the speakers at that point, along with the OEM sub. Built in bluetooth and multiple aux-in, USB expansion, and a better EQ were just icing on the cake. In short, the OEM HU sucks, but then again, Subaru has never been known for excellent in-car entertainment. Even their current infotainment systems lag behind the competition in sound, usability, and features.

Sti trans is pretty straightforward, you need an 08-14 STI shift linkage, and a 05-09 Legacy 4 speed auto driveshaft (5speed auto is too short, 5 speed manual is too long -ask me how I know). You'll need matching rear diff - if you're sticking to the r180 off the STI, you'll need rear axles from a spec B, if you want to keep the axles, you'll need to change the ring/pinion gear on the R160 to match your 6 speed's - you'll end up with a weaker VLSD or open rear diff though. You can leave the DCCD wiring off and the 6speed will run in the default torque split, depending on year. The sti engine will also bolt in, engine mounts the same, pretty much all stock locations the same on the 2.5i. Electrical wiring and harness merge will take up the bulk of your time. If you're going the supergramps route, just be sure to spend the extra $$ on engine management and tuning. I'm sure you've seen the MCM vids, but make sure you review them at least 4 times to see exactly what they did to make that swap happen.

Get snow tires. That's more than enough to run in stock class and see how far you can go/how much fun you'll have. Everything else can come later when with more experience. These cars just aren't that competitive once you get into the higher classes (weight and wheelbase being main factors). Oh and I ran in Modified 4wd during my brief stint rallycrossing my swapped 03 Legacy; I had stage-rally prepped imprezas running in my class. 350+bhp isn't really fast when you have all 4 wheels spinning in the dirt...extremely fun though.

Reconnect PCV valve to system, if it solves the issue, the catchcan and the lines to it are the problem.

about 100k...

I think I still have mine in the basement after I upgraded to a 6spd... Its yours if you can pick it up...