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Alignment Mishap


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Damn you got defensive quick. Phate gave you proper advise and you called him out on being an ass. In for pictures of alignment print out and how the car currently site.

 

Side note I think you need to learn what suspension geometry means. scoobyscoodle gave you the proper definition. I don't understand why you think that changing to another stock option strut and spring set up modifies or changes your suspension geometry. I mean hell I've got coilovers and I still have stock geometry because the arms are all still OEM. Just the static rest position has changed.

2005 Vader Wagon

Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston

I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B
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Suspension geometry = the pivot angles and location/length of the control arms and ball joints. This dictates the motion ratio and camber curve. If you loaded an elephant into the trunk of your LGT, the suspension geometry would be the SAME. The only thing that would change would be your static alignment specs.

 

That being said, like people have suggested, +4 degrees front camber is not possible with any stock hardware in any configuration unless something is wildly wrong. I took my spec.B suspension directly off my car and watched it go onto an MT LGT (lighter than your car slightly) and the front camber was within 0.5 degrees of where we started. Even when you dump the rear end of our cars, which has a pretty aggressive camber curve at the top of it's travel, you still only see about a -1.5 degree change from the change in ride height, nothing in the neighborhood of 4 degrees.

 

If you'd like some genuine help with this issue there are people here who will help you, but right now this is all speculation, we need facts to help you. Show us an alignment printout and a picture of your car as it sits right now and we can get started.

 

Best of luck with fixing this issue.

 

I didn't come here to start shit with you, if you remember correctly I actually was the first one to respond and help you. And if you read through the other suggestions, they line up with exactly what I told you in the first and second posts in this thread: That you should post a picture of the car/alignment printout, and that your numbers were MASSIVELY jacked up and need to find a new shop ASAP. MaxCap echoed that suggestion. Whitetiger and Scoobyscoodle stated the same thing I did about +4 degrees of positive camber.

 

You responded by trying to make me look stupid "did you even read what I wrote?", making a snarky remark about not knowing what I'm talking about because of where I live "Does that add up to stock suspension geometry in New York?". You put your foot in your mouth because that combination of stock components absolutely does add up to stock suspension geometry. No idea where all the salt came from on your end.

 

Don't try to take the high road dude, you came at me. If you're going to be an asshole, just own it, but be ready to encounter someone who is better at it than you. Otherwise just be normal and don't, it's pretty simple. And going for the dick references? Come on dude, you know you're better than that.

 

 

And I have far from given you my every opinion.

 

Damn you got defensive quick. Phate gave you proper advise and you called him out on being an ass. In for pictures of alignment print out and how the car currently site.

Side note I think you need to learn what suspension geometry means. scoobyscoodle gave you the proper definition. I don't understand why you think that changing to another stock option strut and spring set up modifies or changes your suspension geometry. I mean hell I've got coilovers and I still have stock geometry because the arms are all still OEM. Just the static rest position has changed.

 

In for pics, it's not too late. Only females hold grudges past a day or 2. No point in a bunch of people getting banned for a sight unseen car.

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Guess what Phate. I'm not asking you. I'm asking the forum. I don't give a crap what you believe. You have made up your mind about me and given me your every opinion. I don't care. Drop the crap. And as for listening to what "others" say, only a select few have given some actual suggestions and not tried their hardest to act like a big shot. Get the hell off of this post if all you are going to do is start crap.

 

Phate is 100% right.

 

at this point you are either trolling, severely misguided, or lack a fundamental understanding of how suspension works.

 

post the printout or pics of your car as it sits if you want real help.

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I don't know what I did with the alignment printout. It was probably misplaced by me during a move, but I did take some frame measurments and from what I can tell the front end must have been in a wicked accident. How all of this worked with the previous struts and control arms is beyond me. I missed something when I was removing parts. I did find a non factory weld line. This would explain a few things. Guess I'm screwed. I'm going to have another shop check my alignment. For all I know the printout I received may have been doctored in an attempt to squeeze money from me.
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Why do people insist on ruining good cars?

 

What would be the point of ruining something that was already bad? You wouldn't even be able to actually. The only thing there is to ruin is something good, otherwise it's not ruinable. Only things that are not ruined things can be ruined and bad things are ruined as well as ruined things are ruined. Therefore people have no choice but to ruin good cars. Not ruining good cars is not even an option.

 

:lol::)

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What would be the point of ruining something that was already bad? You wouldn't even be able to actually. The only thing there is to ruin is something good, otherwise it's not ruinable. Only things that are not ruined things can be ruined and bad things are ruined as well as ruined things are ruined. Therefore people have no choice but to ruin good cars. Not ruining good cars is not even an option.

 

:lol::)

 

Was that a riddle or alcohol poisoning?

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As others have said: 4 degrees of camber, whether plus or minus, is visible from SPACE. You don't need a printout, you'd see that something's wrong with one eye half-closed.

 

So you said they didn't touch your front end, right? So either you brought them the car with 4 degrees of camber, and didn't notice it, or their numbers were wrong and/or made up. I'm guessing it's the latter.

 

...I missed something when I was removing parts. I did find a non factory weld line. This would explain a few things. Guess I'm screwed.

 

Ruh roh.

LW's spec. B / YT / IG
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Is the car on flat ground, with a straight wheel? Unless your perspective is all screwy, and the wheel is turned in the pic, there is no way that wheel has +4.0 camber. They focked up the decimal point.

 

Guess you could get behind your car and shuffle over until you can see the profile of both the rear and front tires, then take a pic, making sure you keep the horizon as flat as possible. That would be definitive. Could probably put it on the screen and measure the angle for yourself...

LW's spec. B / YT / IG
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As soon as I find a trustworthy alignment shop I'm going to take it in and have this checked again. I don't know what 4 degrees of + camber looks like. I see plenty of douches around here with demented amounts of negative camber, but I couldn't tell you just how much. Never experienced more than a degree or two positive or negative camber myself. In my book there is just no reason for anything more than that. At least not on the street.
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