fredrik94087 Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 Technically you don't, and can just replace the stock TMIC with this one on whatever map you are currently running, but without a tune, you are leaving the benefits of the aftermarket TMIC on the table. You still get the better cooling. But, yes, you don't get the additional HP. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 I'm strongly considering dropping mine in right away just because of that- I've had a couple instances already where high intake temps have led to some pretty rapid drops in my DAM (which I'm sure could be partially avoided with a non-OTS tune), and just having the extra cooling capacity without fully taking advantage of it seems like it'd be worth it. The tune will come after car #2 (whenever that happens) when the downpipe and fresh clutch go on, may as well do all of that at once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 I think part of my problem is not knowing when to shift. A cobb v3 is on the way to me to hopefully help with that. It supposedly has shift indicators. Too often I'm bogging out of first gear especially. Too low rpms I think. I may leave the tmic on the shelf a while until I figure this out The tiny leds that show your imminent need to shift are very small, and while bright are not very helpful, shifting has been my most consistent issue, because the car seems to keep pulling in 1st and 2nd and then it hits the limiter and then you hit the metaphorical wall, and then some clown in a slower car does the ricer fly by! Set up launch control and give it a try, a few times doing that will show you how much power you can leave the line with. It is shocking, so set your seat forward a little so you don't lose your grip on the wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 From what I recall, LC at 3500 RPM and lift your foot as fast as you can while keeping it on the clutch pedal (not quite a side-step) is the winning formula. I still haven't tested that theory myself, but I can confirm everything else that happens at or after about 10 MPH. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBPeik Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 ^^^You are very brave. I have launched my car that way a few times, but I am way to scared to put that much power into my driveline that fast. I have images of chunks of transmission flying down the road. My someday I will be done with it thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 ^^^You are very brave. I have launched my car that way a few times, but I am way to scared to put that much power into my driveline that fast. I have images of chunks of transmission flying down the road. Launch control is where it pays to keep the stock clutch, lol. Well sort of... Pretty much what cww said the minimum I found was about 3500 rpm when you take off lift smoothly but quickly off the clutch or you will be smelling it for a few miles. If you do it right, you should just spin the fronts before getting jolted back into your seat. Keep an eye on the tach and when you see the needle sweep by 6000 shift to 2nd and repeat on your way to 3rd. I do wish the shift light was useful we could certainly use it. As you get better eyeballing the redline you can press it a bit into 6k, but hitting the limiter is not fun and I imagine it isn't good for the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBPeik Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 Launch control is where it pays to keep the stock clutch, lol. Well sort of... Yeah my clutch is a bit harder to do that with. I can get it to slip, but it is a royal pita. My someday I will be done with it thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2baru Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 Same. I only use the fx300 and its probably not as strong as some of the ones guys have but out at autoX I never kinda just slipped the clutch at out at 2500rpm for just a minor moment. You could smell it slip a little but it holds like crazy so I never attempted dumping it or a high rpm Launch. All the extra torque already had me iffy about the trans so I don't blame you for not doing it either Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted August 19, 2016 Author Share Posted August 19, 2016 shipping today!!! W00000t!!!! GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrstacy Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 Mine is on its way too. I'll likely put mine on ice until the install process is solidified and all my other bits are bought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 Considering this was the last picture I took today, I'd say I messed up this part of the install. Everything else went swimmingly, though, full(ish) report to follow as soon as I get pics resized and attached. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 Wait. You got yours already? GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 Considering this was the last picture I took today, I'd say I messed up this part of the install. Everything else went swimmingly, though, full(ish) report to follow as soon as I get pics resized and attached. Lol did you drive over to Grimmspeed in MN to get your TMIC?? I guess I was wrong when I bet that Joe would have it on first My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 Yup, showed up this afternoon. It rolled into Chicago sometime yesterday evening according to the tracking, and made it up here this morning in time to get sorted and put on a delivery truck. I guess I could have driven over there, would have only been about 9-10 hours of drive time. Maybe for the next GS group buy... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 Mine just got to Hutchins Tx, which is just outside of Dallas Tx, which is still a 3.5hr drive z My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deadrick20 Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 I think it's time for a new TMIC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 Disclaimer: I'm male and an engineer- I didn't even bother looking to see if there are installation instructions anywhere, I just winged it. I can honestly say I had a harder time getting the stock TMIC off than I did getting the GS TMIC on. I had to wiggle and jiggle quite a bit to get the Perrin coupler to let go of the throttle body, although that would have been easier if I'd been less concerned about unscrewing the nuts all the way off the clamps and dropping them into the black hole that is the engine bay. As far as installation tips- use the included worm clamps rather than the t-bolt clamps from your Perrin TB coupler unless you have a healthy supply of silicone spray or your t-bolt clamps are a larger diameter than mine are. I didn't have any silicone spray (although now that I think about it, I'm pretty sure I actually do have some in the garage I forgot about...), so I stuck with the worm clamps. I'd also suggest installing the TB coupler to the TMIC first and tightening that clamp fully before you install the TMIC, as there's pretty much no way to get at it after the fact. The TB side of the coupler can still be accessed through the same tiny gap as with the Perrin coupler, so that one's "easy" enough. I ended up putting a 3/8" flat washer under each of the mounting ears on the TMIC, as I had decided to check for clutch slave cylinder contact (good thump with the heel of my hand on the driver's side end tank), and it seemed like there was a pretty good chance of there being contact over a small to moderate bump. I was hoping to use the two extra M8 fender washers I had left over from installing the Perrin shifter bushing, but they were nowhere to be found, so I used what I had. I'd definitely recommend M8 or 5/16", though, as that'll allow you to get a good clamp load on the metal core of the isolator mount, rather than just squishing the rubber. It'll still make contact if I give the end tank a good thump, but it'd take a pretty tooth-jarring bump to make contact now. From the sounds of it, it's contacting on a bar rather than mangling the fins, so I don't think I'm too concerned. Here comes the interesting part: I decided to toss the TMIC-side of the splitter assembly on there, just for shiggles, and it turns out it actually clears pretty well. In fact, as you can kinda see in the pictures, it seals darn near perfectly around the sides and back of the stock hood-side splitter, and there's only about a finger's-width gap across the front (everything is in line, though, so it's not diverting air away from the TMIC). This is without the stock engine cover installed, so no trimming is actually necessary for installation. You could probably get a better seal if you bent the front tab up on the TMIC-side splitter and put on a piece of the included bulb seal, but since a) re-bending aluminum that thin is a risky proposition, and b) that's a lot of work, I left it alone. The 3" tall piece at the back of the splitter kinda gets in the way of the airflow (you can kinda see the dust from where the foam on the hood-side splitter contacts it in the pictures), I just drilled out the rivets (harder than it needed to be, reference picture 3) and plopped it back on there. At some point in the future, a splash of rattle-can black on the tabs (or just cutting them off) might be a good idea for appearances. As an added bonus, you get a fancy black piece of aluminum for future projects! I'm also planning on trying to move the GrimmSpeed badge from the hood-side splitter to the TMIC-side somewhere, as soon as I get daylight, floss, and a hair dryer. Pictures (sorry about the lighting and the dead bug on my splitter): pic 1: passenger's side of TMIC-side splitter, with dust print pic 2: driver's side of TMIC-side splitter, with dust print pic 3: Atlas model 1020 drill press, in kit form pic 4: back of TMIC splitter interface, hood resting on safety latch pic 5: back of TMIC splitter interface, hood fully latched pic 6: driver's side of TMIC splitter, hood latched (foam on hood-side splitter sits right next to TMIC-side splitter) pic 7: passenger's side of TMIC splitter, hood latched (foam on hood-side splitter sits right next to TMIC-side splitter) pic 8: great success! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 Nice work! Jelly over here. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 Of which, the dead bugs or the dirty engine bay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 I think it's time for a new TMIC. I'm still pissed at you for losing your stock exhaust manifold. Lol! Those things are rare and I could use one for my spare motor. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humble Rumble Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 I'm still pissed at you for losing your stock exhaust manifold. Lol! Those things are rare and I could use one for my spare motor. Spare motor?! Ok, honestly, how many parts are you MISSING from building an entire 2nd GT? 2012 Legacy 3.6R Build Thread 5th Gen Legacy BM/BR Body Kit Compendium Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 Spare motor?! Ok, honestly, how many parts are you MISSING from building an entire 2nd GT? I think that is his secret subconscious plan... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 227 sold, 228 in existence! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 You guys crack me up. The ideal plan would be to convert an Outback to Legacy GT wagon. However, in CA, that's a little difficult. But at the very least, the extra motor will be will be my high power unit to swap as needed. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humble Rumble Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 That would actually be pretty cool. I know there's that guy that swapped an Outback front bumper onto his Legacy, so one would have to assume the reverse would fit as well. With that, a GT hood, engine swap, and drop, that would be a very believable facsimile for a 5th gen Legacy wagon in the states. Do it! 2012 Legacy 3.6R Build Thread 5th Gen Legacy BM/BR Body Kit Compendium Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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