Andrew's DiySB Rebuild

[heiche]

That's a very healthy looking LV! Congrats on the rebuild too, job very well done.

 

Regarding the @$!%& misfire, I'll switch over to your other thread.

[StkmltS]

Here's my 30-minute oil. I didn't find any chunks or floaters so the filter must be doing its job.

 

A coworker of mine has an oil filter cutting tool, so I'm saving all of my break-in filters and I'll cut them open when I'm ready to switch over to synthetic.

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160921/f8d44c14c69b54701a28b542885f90d5.jpg

[StkmltS]

140 miles and all is well.

 

The oil level hasn't changed yet, I haven't found any fluid leaks, LVs look healthy, and the burning smell is going away. I've seen a half dozen knock events but they've all been mid-shift and at low load so I'm pretty much ignoring what I've seen so faar.

 

My only slight concern is oil pressure at idle. With the motor at temp the oil pressure is hovering right around 10-15 psi. Pre-rebuild it would idle around 20 psi if I remember correctly. Any guess on why it's lower than before? Should I be concerned? At my 1-week checkup this weekend I'll check inside the TB cover for leaks and anything else that looks out of place.

 

Sent from inner space.

[birkhoff]

Pictures of oil are hard to read, but that does look pretty dirty for 30 min, as did the previous pic. Does it look graphite-ish? Maybe there was honing material left in the block passages or on the cylinders. It might be a good idea to throw in an extra oil change before 500 miles to see if it is clearing up.

 

Did you take the oil pump apart? Maybe it didn't align quite the same as before if it is worn to the top end of spec. Most important is to see the pressure jump up to max when you blip the throttle.

[xt2005bonbon]

Do you still have the banjo bolt filters in place? If yes, I would inspect them just in case too.

[birkhoff]

^ Does StkmltS seem like someone who leaves his banjo filters in place?? Good idea though!

 

I couldn't bring myself to type 'O-ring' in previous post with respect to oil pressure. Are you sure it is there? I personally don't know anyone who has left it out, and I would expect it to make a bigger difference than 5 psi at idle, but my musings above are kind of far-fetched. A missing or re-used O-ring would be a more obvious place to look.

Edited September 22, 2016 by birkhoff

[Tehnation]

looks like my oil when i pulled my engine apart.

 

 

[xt2005bonbon]

planning to send oil samples to blackstone?

[birkhoff]

The cloudiness may be in part due to moisture inside the engine. Depends on your climate but if it was sitting around in a humid shop with temp changes there can be moisture. You didn't run it long enough to drive water out of the oil. There isn't enough to settle out, or it doesn't seem so from the pictures.

 

Shimmering is another thing. Something you don't really want to see except maybe a little bit in the first oil, but even better not at all.

[StkmltS]

Pictures of oil are hard to read, but that does look pretty dirty for 30 min, as did the previous pic. Does it look graphite-ish? Maybe there was honing material left in the block passages or on the cylinders. It might be a good idea to throw in an extra oil change before 500 miles to see if it is clearing up.

 

Did you take the oil pump apart? Maybe it didn't align quite the same as before if it is worn to the top end of spec. Most important is to see the pressure jump up to max when you blip the throttle.

I didn't take the pump apart, but I sprayed some carb/brake cleaner through it and swooshed it around some just to know it's a little cleaner than before.

With the insane amount of material I "honed" from cylinder F, there's no doubt in my mind that the shimmery oil is because of aluminum that I didn't get out of one/some of the deep passages.

 

The oil pressure jumps back up to 40-60 psi immediately after giving it a little throttle. Could the low psi at idle be caused by the conventional oil I'm using? Doesn't seem like a factor to me.

 

Do you still have the banjo bolt filters in place? If yes, I would inspect them just in case too.

 

I left them both in, but I moved the one on the passenger side to on top of the OCV. It seemed like a good compromise between the frequently argued remove/clean opinions.

 

^ Does StkmltS seem like someone who leaves his banjo filters in place?? Good idea though!

 

I couldn't bring myself to type 'O-ring' in previous post with respect to oil pressure. Are you sure it is there? I personally don't know anyone who has left it out, and I would expect it to make a bigger difference than 5 psi at idle, but my musings above are kind of far-fetched. A missing or re-used O-ring would be a more obvious place to look.

 

I'm very certain it's in there, and it's the new one.

 

planning to send oil samples to blackstone?

 

My plan is to send a sample after the first synthetic change.

Edited September 23, 2016 by StkmltS

[StkmltS]

You may remember that my new UP doesn't have a bung for my oem EGT sensor. For now I have the sensor just laying on top of the motor between the intake runners for cyls 1 and 3. Long-term it sounds like a fun idea to use the EGT sensor to monitor under-hood temps (if the sensor works properly in the low-pressure environment outside of the exhaust pipe). Until now it looked like I wasn't going to need to mess with the EGT sensor diagnostic codes.

 

Well, P0546 popped up in the parking lot this morning and turned on the in-dash Christmas lights. It scared me at first thinking I had a real problem. I'm satisfied with how well the motor is running well so far so this weekend I'll probably flash over a new map with an 800rpm idle speed and the EGT codes disabled.

[heiche]

bung

 

I'll probably flash over a new map with an 800rpm idle speed and the EGT codes disabled.

You know it would be funny if raising the idle rpm was enough to keep this issue away. I'd call it a victory.

[StkmltS]

You know it would be funny if raising the idle rpm was enough to keep this issue away. I'd call it a victory.

 

It didn't work pre-rebuild but maybe it will now. It'll definitely smooth things out though.

[xt2005bonbon]

 

I left them both in, but I moved the one on the passenger side to on top of the OCV. It seemed like a good compromise between the frequently argued remove/clean opinions.

 

Do you mean driver side where it is originally located behind the TB cover?

[birkhoff]

 

The oil pressure jumps back up to 40-60 psi immediately after giving it a little throttle. Could the low psi at idle be caused by the conventional oil I'm using? Doesn't seem like a factor to me.

 

 

Spec is >=14 PSI at 600 RPM and >= 43 PSI at 5000 RPM so you are probably fine. I think a new-ish pump and tight build will show higher pressures (mine did) but you set all the clearances a little loose and even over spec on the mains, so it is not unreasonable that you would see slightly lower oil pressure than stock.

 

All is good, especially if the next oil change is cleaner.

[StkmltS]

Do you mean driver side where it is originally located behind the TB cover?

 

I thought that's where it came from... maybe I moved it when I changed my TB pre-rebuild.

Either way, now they're both intentionally on top of the OCVs.

[StkmltS]

I've developed a coolant leak. It looks to be coming from the turbo drain hose so hopefully a generic hose from LocalPartsStore will be all I need.

 

Sent from inner space.

[xt2005bonbon]

is the hose the problem or the clamp?

[birkhoff]

Double clamp it and move on

[StkmltS]

It was leaking from the top part of the hose that connects to the turbo. The hose looked fine so I took off the springy clamp and replaced it with a screw-type clamp. The Problem appears to be solved.

 

I parked on top of a big piece of cardboard last night to see if anything was still dripping, and now it looks like I have a slight oil leak coming from somewhere on the back side of the motor above the crossmember. The first person to suggest that it's my rear main seal gets a virtual backhand across the face!

[heiche]

Maybe instead it's the trans front seal?

[StkmltS]

brilliant

[StkmltS]

I probably should mention that I'm not 100% sure it's oil. I didn't feel or taste it. I mean, not that I taste-test engine fluids or anything, but you know.

[LatentWagen]

I mean, not that I taste-test engine fluids or anything, but you know.

 

You don't?

 

I like to add a few drops of water to my brake fluid before sampling, or else it's a little harsh.

[seanyb505]

Watered down brake fluid? Do you also put a little umbrella in it? Drink it straight like a man!