Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Andrew's DiySB Rebuild


What color combo should I paint my block / heads / valve covers?  

37 members have voted

  1. 1. What color combo should I paint my block / heads / valve covers?

    • everything SILVER
    • everything RED
    • sb RED / heads SILVER / vc's SILVER
    • sb RED / heads SILVER / vc's RED
    • sb SILVER / heads RED / vc's SILVER
    • sb SILVER / heads RED / vc's RED


Recommended Posts

Waiting until Saturday morning will allow me to go over my checklist on Friday night without feeling pressured to rush or skip over anything, and I'll be fresh from a few hours of sleep.

 

I wonder if you'll be able to sleep though. Or I bet you'll be dreaming that you are trying to start the car. I once dreamed a couple of weeks ago that the 06 was running without its valve covers. I was driving it in my dream like that, and was amazed that it was running :lol::spin:.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I noticed you're using a mobile 1 oil filter. Hopefully you're not using matching oil... ;)

 

I also am concerned about this, lol

 

Castrol 5w-30 conventional for the break-in and Brotella T6 afterwards... duh!

 

Advance Auto had a buy-oil-get-a-free-filter sale a while ago so I picked up a wheelbarrow full of Castrol 5w-30 and a few m1 filters. The Mobile 1's weren't supposed to be free but they were out of the Purolators.

Edited by StkmltS
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dude, we are on like the exact same schedule! I just came inside after spending a solid day dropping the motor in and tying up loose ends. Hopefully it's running tomorrow!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use a vagcom cable. 20$ :). Here is a fairly detailed video about the install. I think I provide some info in the video description.

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0slj-8_d-8]Nexus 7 2013 installed in 05 subaru outback using OEM USDM NAV bezel - YouTube[/ame]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So you're 48 hours ahead of me... I guess we'll have to see who can get to 250/500/1000 miles first.

 

It appears things have just evened out, got a horrible misfire, and it turns out the crank gear is missing a tooth. :spin:

 

The race to 250 starts tomorrow!

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It appears things have just evened out, got a horrible misfire, and it turns out the crank gear is missing a tooth. :spin:

 

The race to 250 starts tomorrow!

 

Crank gear is the most stressed part of the whole timing system. I replaced mine just to make sure the tooth profile was up to snuff. Mine was kind of polished, but o'wise it looked pretty good at 180K or so. Replacing is cheap insurance IMO.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm jumping up and down like a giddy school girl right now!

 

Another image that's going to take a while to clear from my head, after FJuan's post #646 . . . :)

 

You seem to have plugs and coils installed. What is your plan for priming the oiling circuit? Goes a lot easier if you can crank at speed with no load on the bottom end.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did the tap a fuse with the cig lighter. I also know I never use the cig lighter, so that may make a difference.

I'll be sending the WBO2 signal through the passenger side TGV sensor and I have no reason to run any other wires through the firewall. I'd like to find a +12v power source on the passenger side of the engine bay that only has power when the ignition is on (like the cig lighter). I've read that the ECU probably can't handle that much juice flowing through the TGV sensor wiring/circuitry/whatever, so I'm def not going to do that. It would be extremely convenient if I could just tap into the wiring that goes to the stock front O2 sensor. I'll keep digging around and posting elsewhere to to find out if there's any reason NOT to do that.

 

Another image that's going to take a while to clear from my head, after FJuan's post #646 . . . :)

 

You seem to have plugs and coils installed. What is your plan for priming the oiling circuit? Goes a lot easier if you can crank at speed with no load on the bottom end.

 

Plugs are not in, coils are only partially threaded just to keep them out of the way.

I'm going to fill the motor with oil through the stock front oil pressure sensor port using a garden sprayer and a threaded barb that I bought from someone on here (I can't remember right now). Then I'll turn the motor (w/o plugs) for a little while like most people recommend.

Edited by StkmltS
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Any recommendations on where to get the +12v signal for my wbo2?

Can I just tap into the wiring for the stock front O2 sensor?

 

I'm mounting the controller halfway under the passenger fender on the little flat spot about 2" from the power steering fluid reservoir.

 

Are you going to mount a gauge for it anywhere, or just using the controller? (I highly recommend a gauge, mine has saved me a few times). I tapped used a JCS cubby pod, and tapped the controller into the wiring harness for the clock display. My Defi oil pressure gauge is tapped there as well, and so far no issues. That harness has the illumination circuit if you have a dimmable gauge too. Anothe roption is the "IG2" curcuit in the fuse box, use a fuse tap.

 

Crank gear is the most stressed part of the whole timing system. I replaced mine just to make sure the tooth profile was up to snuff. Mine was kind of polished, but o'wise it looked pretty good at 180K or so. Replacing is cheap insurance IMO.

 

I almost bought one too, but I said to myself "nah, mine is fine". This is what I get. :spin:

 

I'll be sending the WBO2 signal through the passenger side TGV sensor and I have no reason to run any other wires through the firewall. I'd like to find a +12v power source on the passenger side of the engine bay that only has power when the ignition is on (like the cig lighter). I've read that the ECU probably can't handle that much juice flowing through the TGV sensor wiring/circuitry/whatever, so I'm def not going to do that. It would be extremely convenient if I could just tap into the wiring that goes to the stock front O2 sensor. I'll keep digging around and posting elsewhere to to find out if there's any reason NOT to do that.

 

 

 

Plugs are not in, coils are only partially threaded just to keep them out of the way.

I'm going to fill the motor with oil through the stock front oil pressure sensor port using a garden sprayer and a threaded barb that I bought from someone on here (I can't remember right now). Then I'll turn the motor (w/o plugs) for a little while like most people recommend.

 

I just re-read this and it negates everything I've typed above, but I'll leave it for reference in case you get any more gauges. :) There's not too much happening in the way of power sources in that area. Maybe tap into something non-critical like EVAP stuff? We need Flinkly for this one, I believe he's rather familiar with the engine harness.

 

I've left the plugs in all my rebuilds for priming. I take the oil pump apart and pack it with Clevite bearing guard, then reassemble and loctite the screws. The grease in the pump creates instant suction and primes right away. It ran with no pressure after start up for a second maybe. Outfront taught me that one!

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

After some research:

 

A clean way to get the +12v I'm looking for would be to use an SPST relay activated (turned on?) by the +12v being supplied to the TGV sensor. Taking this route I'd only need to buy a relay. I already have plenty of wire and a 3-pin connector that plugs directly into the TGV sensor harness (that I bought for this purpose and that IS included in my total project cost).

 

The TGV sensor has three wires/pins. One is ground, one is +12v, and one is the 0-5v output that the sensor usually sends back to the ECU.

 

In my situation: the 0-5v pin will send the wbo2 signal to the ECU, and the +12v and ground would be diverted to the relay. When the TGV sensor sees power the relay will turn on and supply power directly from the battery. No cutting, no ugly splicing, everything super clean and safe.

 

I don't have time to stop and buy a relay today so my wbo2 will just have wait a day or two. That's good though, I'm already sweating bullets over the first start and it's one less thing on my mind to think about.

Edited by StkmltS
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought the 3 pin connector to the TGV sensor has a +5V supply, not a +12V supply. The +5V supply is very low power, not meant to drive a relay, it's just meant to supply the Voltage to the potentiometer that is the TGV position sensor. But my memory could be failing me.
BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

I've left the plugs in all my rebuilds for priming. I take the oil pump apart and pack it with Clevite bearing guard, then reassemble and loctite the screws. The grease in the pump creates instant suction and primes right away. It ran with no pressure after start up for a second maybe. Outfront taught me that one!

 

If I rebuilt engines for a living, that is what I'd do too. I'd have maybe one bad day in a hundred so no big deal. But what if you forget to install the o-ring in the oil pickup? Easy enough to do for any one of us.

 

I DO think we should be left alone to decide on this for ourselves. It is a white knuckle point in the process and who am I to tell you how to do it.

 

However . . .

 

Personally, I want to know two things, for sure, in this order: (1) does the pump prime and pull oil from the sump and (2) does it build pressure, or is there an open galley plug somewhere?

 

I will add (3) specifically for our cars -- do I have oil pressure at the CRH on the turbo?

 

Packing the pump with heavy oil and using a mechanical gauge are no brainers.

Pre-priming may be related to some of this, but it doesn't really answer any of the questions on its own.

 

As soon as the engine is mated to the bell housing and you can get the starter in there, install your mechanical gauge, fill the sump the usual way, crack the banjo bolt at the turbo CRH and have a helper watch for trouble while you crank with the plugs out. No fuel lines, accessories in the way, etc.

 

If you get pressure of any sort, that settles (1). If moments later you are spraying oil over your nice clean engine bay, or not, that settles (2), and within 3 or 4 seconds you should see oil at the pipe joint above the turbo; that settles (3). Close it all up and complete the install and first startup. If any of these don't happen as expected, you'll need to investigate, but nothing will have been damaged and it will be (relatively) easy to pull the engine if you need to.

 

Full disclosure: on my recent rebuild I waited until pretty much everything was done before checking for oil pressure (as above). It was fine, but it was a dumb thing not to get out of the way earlier. Some years ago I rebuild a diesel and left a galley plug out. What a mess! Everything had to come out in that fiasco, but that was a long time ago and maybe I didn't learn my lesson!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I went to bed around 4:30 and apparently about 4 hours is all my mind wanted me to sleep. I'm like a kid waking up super early on Christmas morning.

 

Before I crashed last night I pumped about 5 quarts of oil into the crankcase via the stock oil pressure switch location. This morning there's a small wet spot right under the center of the motor. I held off crying until I got under the car... it was just a slightly loose oil drain plug. Excuse me while I go change my pants.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use