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Andrew's DiySB Rebuild


What color combo should I paint my block / heads / valve covers?  

37 members have voted

  1. 1. What color combo should I paint my block / heads / valve covers?

    • everything SILVER
    • everything RED
    • sb RED / heads SILVER / vc's SILVER
    • sb RED / heads SILVER / vc's RED
    • sb SILVER / heads RED / vc's SILVER
    • sb SILVER / heads RED / vc's RED


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21.34 mpg on my second tank of gas with a pre-stage 2 map (WGDC reduced by 20%). About 200 of those miles were steady cruising highway miles on an out of town trip.

 

My oil level hasn't visibly dropped since my recent oil change and there are no new wet spots on my driveway. A few times over the past few weeks my finely tuned nostrils have picked up the delicately sweet odor of burning coolant, and at the start my last tank of gas the coolant overflow reservoir was almost empty. I've seen some evidence of burnt coolant around the turbo (white spots on the blue silicone inlet), so maybe my leak is coolant, and maybe it's coming from the return hose on the underside of the turbo. That would make sense when you consider that I had straight water (no coolant) in the system during the first 20 minutes post-rebuild, and that particular hose blew off, spewing surface-of-the-sun-temperature water on my garage floor.

 

Other than that the motor appears to be running well.

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Have you also checked the large upper coolant hose in front of the engine? Might be leaking on the engine side and slowly dripping on the timing belt cover. Mine has been doing that lately. Looks like I will have to change that hose.

 

Briefly just this morning, but not close enough to say it's not the problem.

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Mickeyd's tune is for a car with an aftermarket downpipe. It will run but it would not be advisable to use without an aftermarket downpipe.

 

I recall my tuner telling me that changing the downpipe changes the turbo back pressure or something. Something to consider.

 

The downpipe, assuming it is the most restrictive, will change the flow capability of the exhaust system. An aftermarket downpipe has a larger tubing diameter and less resistive/absent cats. Technically, the same pre-turbo manifold pressure would net higher turbine speed with an aftermarket downpipe, as the heated gasses have much more room to expand, and a much less resistive path to travel post turbo. Obviously there's way more to turbo dynamics than that, but that's how I look at it.

 

Does anyone know what table(s) in a ROM get modified to make a tune "catted" or "catless"? Is it just a fueling+timing+boost issue, or are there other tables involved? Google isn't being helpful.

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  • 2 weeks later...

4,169/113,321 miles on the rebuild/car and there's nothing new to report.

 

18.55 mpg on the last 22.53 gallons of fuel. The car computer thingy says 17.7 mpg, wich is significantly further from reality than ever before. Usually its only off (lower than actual) by 0.2-0.5 mpg.

 

Sent from inner space.

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  • 3 weeks later...

21.58 mpg on my last tank of gas and no measurable oil consumption.

 

Why did I get better mileage on this last tank? The only thing I know I've done differently is opening the gas cap for a second after I park at work in the mornings to relieving pressure from the tank (hoping to reduce how much fuel leaks out). It's helped, and apparently my leak is significant enough to noticeably affect gas mileage.

 

Repairing the leak is next on my list once the weather gets warm. I've already replaced the fuel pump gasket, so I'm not sure where to look next.

Edited by StkmltS
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So no idea where your leak is?

 

Nope. It drips from under the car, right in front of the rear passenger tire.

 

A few weeks ago I ran some UV dye in the fuel tank. I was hoping to see a leaky line by looking down from inside the car, but I couldn't find crap. Admittedly I didn't look very hard underneath the car because it was freezing cold, but I'll try it all again after it warms up and I can get under the car without crying.

 

It's driving me crazy.

 

You would think that this leak would throw a code?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

Nope, no codes.

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  • 3 weeks later...

My car hates me.

This morning I replaced one of the exhaust manifold bolts/nuts because the old one (replaced during the rebuild) decided to leave the car. It was torqued to spec and everything. Great.

 

Also, my steering wheel just started shaking. As it turns out, three of my front right lug nuts decided to leave the car. They were also torqued to spec. One of them hated me enough to take half of the stud with it. How does that even happen? Until this weekend I'll just have to limp around by stealing a nut off two other wheels.

 

Love is doing what's best for someone (something) and expecting nothing in return. My relationship with this car fits that definition.

 

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A similar thing happened to me: I torqued to spec the turbo to downpipe bolts a while ago, only to find out that almost all of them were completely loose!

So yeah, lesson learned for me: any bolts that get through hot/cold cycles will be tightened a bit more than spec from now on.

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Lug nuts have been a minor issue with these cars over the years. A buddies 05 Outback XT would loosen the lug nuts from time to time.

 

IMO. I'd replace that Hub with a Timken or one of the few recommended ones.

 

 

FWIW, I always have used anti-seize compound on the lug studs and nuts, torque the nuts to 80ftlbs, have never had one loosen. I do torque them twice for pulling the jack out.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 3 weeks later...

This weekend I changed the oil, fixed an outstanding issue with the transmission braces, replaced the rear shifter bushing, poked around looking for my oil leak, and washed the car for the first time in months.

 

I haven't found the leak yet, but it's definitely oil. It's coming from the passenger side of the engine, lower than the turbo drain hose (I think), and rearward of the axle. It doesn't look to be dripping from the dust cover area of the bell housing, which is where I assume it would come from if the rear main seal was leaking. Oh, and it looks like my steering rack is starting to leak. PM on this car is going to kill me. Well, technically the PM on this car is going to cause my wife to kill me.

 

I've been seeing regular knock since the rebuild, and I was hoping my semi-loose transmission bracket was the cause. The actionable knock (per the ECU's logic) was still there this morning, so maybe it is real. It only happens at loads <1.2, at RPM <2500, and almost always under vacuum, but sometimes at very low boost <2 psi. Those exact numbers are pulled from my head, but I've examined my logs enough to know that they're close enough for you guys to understand my issue. Anyways, I'm not very concerned because it (actionable knock) never happens during highway crusing, under WOT, or at idle. As far as I can tell so far, it only happens when the car's momentum shifts. Strange and frustrating... just like everything else with this car.

 

I was talking to someone at work about Subarus in general, and he asked if I recalibrated my knock sensor after my rebuild. Whaaat? I'm looking into it, but it sounds risky.

 

Oil consumption: the fresh motor used almost exactly 1 quart of synthetic 5w-40 over the last 3k miles.

 

I have all of the filters and small oil samples from each oil change since the rebuild. My plan is to examine the filters and oil side-by-side and compare what's in there. This last oil change is the last one I'm going to include, so now I'm just waiting on... motivation?

 

I replaced the wheel stud last weekend. It was a major victory for three reasons: 1) it took less than an hour, 2) I only replaced ONE (no "while I'm in there" stuff), 3) no blood.

 

Finally, one of my little helpers stepped up his game this weekend and got under the car to help me "screwdriver" a few things. Time to buy kids' safety glasses!

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Edited by StkmltS
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  • 3 weeks later...

21.95 mpg on my last tank of gas.

95% of that was highway cruising at about 80 mph. This is consistent with my other highway-only tanks of fuel, so clearly city driving/traffic is what kills my mileage.

 

Currently I'm using a slightly modified MickyD's stage 2 tune. I dont have a catless DP so I know Im not "really" stage 2, but who cares. The motor and turbo seem to like the tune fairly well, although there are a couple areas of light knock that I need to address. I push the car every day, and for me that means about 75% throttle up to somewhere around 5k rpm, three or four times. I know who built the motor so I don't like punching my way all the way up to redline ;)

 

The misfire is still here, so is the tiny oil leak. Oh, and it looks like my radiator is starting to leak all along the top seam. That's cool, I was really hoping to spend more money on preventive maintenance that doesn't make the car more fun.

 

Sent from inner space.

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When you get around to it, I recommend you send a data log to my Tuner. www.tunigalliance.com tell Mike I sent you. You may like the results. I get good mpg in the 24mpg range, I do a lot of highway, the morning drive to work is 62-65mph for about 29 miles. going home is a different story, if it's highway its a bit faster, or having fun on the back roads going over the mountain. The dash is reading 24.9 mpg when I pulled into work today.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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