Andrew's DiySB Rebuild

[SBT]

My solution to this very issue was a really beefy forged 1/2" drive O2 socket from my local parts shop, and a beefy hose clamp. Put the socket on the sensor, thread the wire through the slot, and then slip the hose clamp on and crank it down. Then I used a 3ft breaker bar and it popped right free. Prior to that I was 110% convinced I'd be buying a new collector pipe.

 

That would work. Well done and shadetree mechanic points for you bro.

[MTBwrench]

That would work. Well done and shadetree mechanic points for you bro.

 

 

It's a byproduct of being a poor engineering undergrad.

 

 

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[StkmltS]

I'd prefer to fight it off now vs. under the car in X,000 miles, but it doesn't need replaced so cutting off the wires isn't gonna happen. Looks like it's time to buy one of those magical O2 sensor sockets you guys are talking about.

 

"SK" is a harbor freight brand, right?

 

Sent from inner space.

[StkmltS]

Brand? I need to buy a new one.

Why buy one?

Just submit a request to the unofficial "Legacy GT parts/tools exchange program". I'm pretty sure it would fit inside a box with your buckets.

 

On our way home from my wife's triathlon this morning () I bought an OEM Tools branded 7/8"-22mm o2 socket (p/n 25249) at PoopBoys. I shot a bit of PB blaster on the little sucker and it came loose on the first try. The more I do, the more I appreciate "the right tool for the job". I should have sucked it up and bought the Co.23 valve spring tool...

[MTBwrench]

Why buy one?

 

Just submit a request to the unofficial "Legacy GT parts/tools exchange program". I'm pretty sure it would fit inside a box with your buckets.

 

 

 

On our way home from my wife's triathlon this morning () I bought an OEM Tools branded 7/8"-22mm o2 socket (p/n 25249) at PoopBoys. I shot a bit of PB blaster on the little sucker and it came loose on the first try. The more I do, the more I appreciate "the right tool for the job". I should have sucked it up and bought the Co.23 valve spring tool...

 

 

 

Random thought, but while you're mid rebuild and discussing the unofficial parts and tools exchange between other (also mid rebuild) members... I have the Company 23 AVCS 5 point torx socket I can lend out if you decide you want to rebuild your cam gears. I rebuilt mine with 215k on them, and they're definitely going to benefit from it. Pretty gunky in there, even with 20,000 miles on Motul.

 

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160912/067e458b76b7cabea42ff16b73b05392.jpg

 

 

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[StkmltS]

Random thought, but while you're mid rebuild and discussing the unofficial parts and tools exchange between other (also mid rebuild) members... I have the Company 23 AVCS 5 point torx socket I can lend out if you decide you want to rebuild your cam gears. I rebuilt mine with 215k on them, and they're definitely going to benefit from it. Pretty gunky in there, even with 20,000 miles on Motul.

 

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160912/067e458b76b7cabea42ff16b73b05392.jpg

 

 

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I appreciate the offer. That's what's really cool about this forum, cool people willing to help in ways other than posting.

 

A couple weeks ago I probably would have torn apart the AVCS gears. Now... I'm too close to the finish line.

 

ETA 5 days until drop-in, 6 days until first start.

I'm going to get a good night of sleep before starting it up for the first time so that I can go through my "pre-flight" checklist with fresh eyes and a clear mind.

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160912/5a80bf630029ac4f92f7d4bf2a644682.jpg

Edited September 12, 2016 by StkmltS

[Tehnation]

If your going to invest all that time might as well be thorough about it! All those nice new clean parts will be contaminated by the dirty oil and crud inside those gears.

 

Here's an old diy for rebuilding avcs if you decide to.

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2441411

Edited September 12, 2016 by Tehnation

[Tehnation]

do you want this in your engine ?

 

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w230/duckstu/AVCS5.jpg

[seanyb505]

This is your cam gear on drugs.

[xt2005bonbon]

As a side note, I would definitely put some antiseize on the lower left bolt of the driver side timing belt cover. On my two cars, this one got stuck probably due to heat being so close to the termostat/waterpump. So now, I am missing it on both cars .

[birkhoff]

IMO I wouldn't mess with the gears unless you are willing to suffer an additional delay and possibly the expense of buying two new gears. You had no metal to metal failure on that engine and it was reasonably clean on teardown.

 

Those formed O-rings are unobtainable. When I took mine apart they were stubbornly stuck to the cover plate and I ended up slightly tearing one even though I was being really careful. They were also quite hard and flattened and I worried about getting them to seal again on assembly. Finally, there are no dowel pins to centre the cover plate. The big dowel you see in the pics only serves to index the orientation. I ended up making an alignment fixture to make sure the cover plate was not off centre with respect to the housing. If any of these issues arise, the only quick solution is to buy a new gear. (Outfront M'sports offers a rebuilding service, but that is not a quick solution.)

 

You can see all of this in my thread. In the end I left the second gear untouched. The one I did take apart was pretty clean inside.

[MTBwrench]

IMO I wouldn't mess with the gears unless you are willing to suffer an additional delay and possibly the expense of buying two new gears. You had no metal to metal failure on that engine and it was reasonably clean on teardown.

 

Those formed O-rings are unobtainable. When I took mine apart they were stubbornly stuck to the cover plate and I ended up slightly tearing one even though I was being really careful. They were also quite hard and flattened and I worried about getting them to seal again on assembly. Finally, there are no dowel pins to centre the cover plate. The big dowel you see in the pics only serves to index the orientation. I ended up making an alignment fixture to make sure the cover plate was not off centre with respect to the housing. If any of these issues arise, the only quick solution is to buy a new gear. (Outfront M'sports offers a rebuilding service, but that is not a quick solution.)

 

You can see all of this in my thread. In the end I left the second gear untouched. The one I did take apart was pretty clean inside.

 

I understand the reservation towards taking on that project, I simply did it because of the mileage on my set. Thankfully, the O-rings came off super easy, and weren't flattened. Also, to re-align my gears I simply lined up the split ring washers with the markings they made when I removed them. I don't think balancing is much of an issue with these as there is an oil actuated steel dowel in one of the rotor arms and nothing to counteract that weight increase anywhere else in the gear. I took the risk, hopefully it bodes well.

[birkhoff]

Yes, that was exactly my thinking at the time. I have a little description in post #45 in my rebuild thread

 

I recall the difference in bore diameters was around 1 thou, so not a lot, but any misalignment will show up on the running surface for the seal which, if large enough, could pound out the seal in the long run. Checking the bore alignment with an old cam nose would probably work but it was easy to make a fixture that was a firm sliding fit on each part. I went that route.

 

If anyone has a spare cam gear assembly they would like to donate to the cause, I'd be interested in taking the gear housing and cover to an industrial hydraulic place and see if we can make a custom O-ring by splicing. I'm kind of dubious about this, 'cause the guy at OutFront that I talked to wasn't able to source replacement seals; they cannibalize old units when they need a seal. I'd expect they already thought of splicing.

[MTBwrench]

Yes, that was exactly my thinking at the time. I have a little description in post #45 in my rebuild thread

 

 

 

I recall the difference in bore diameters was around 1 thou, so not a lot, but any misalignment will show up on the running surface for the seal which, if large enough, could pound out the seal in the long run. Checking the bore alignment with an old cam nose would probably work but it was easy to make a fixture that was a firm sliding fit on each part. I went that route.

 

 

 

If anyone has a spare cam gear assembly they would like to donate to the cause, I'd be interested in taking the gear housing and cover to an industrial hydraulic place and see if we can make a custom O-ring by splicing. I'm kind of dubious about this, 'cause the guy at OutFront that I talked to wasn't able to source replacement seals; they cannibalize old units when they need a seal. I'd expect they already thought of splicing.

 

 

 

Pretty sure I have an extra set!

 

 

 

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[StkmltS]

Looking into the cracks and crevices one last time before saying it's ready to go on the hoist. So far so good; no obvious problems. At this point I imagine I'm more familiar with my motor than some men are with their wives.

 

Boys, my excitement is getting hard to contain. Let's drop it in already! Yesterday the wind blew off the front half of the car cover and I realized it's been about 2 months since I've seen more than the rear bumper.

 

Next up: figure out the wiring for my new WBO2 (via TGV sensor), clean garage, clean loaner vehicle & change the oil, push the wagon back into the garage, install hogzhaust, detail the engine bay, drop the beyotch back in.

Edited November 23, 2016 by StkmltS

[FJuan]

Looks awesome!

[StkmltS]

Do you guys remember where I put the two turbo-to-TMIC bolts? So far these are the only two fasteners unaccounted for. Not too bad for a project this big. The threads in the turbo flange have seen better days so the bolts should probably be replaced with longer bolt+nuts anyways.

 

Can anyone confirm that they're M8x1.25?

[BarManBean]

Do you guys remember where I put the two turbo-to-TMIC bolts? So far these are the only two fasteners unaccounted for. Not too bad for a project this big. The threads in the turbo flange have seen better days so the bolts should probably be replaced with longer bolt+nuts anyways.

 

Can anyone confirm that they're M8x1.25?

 

As long as the threads are still good enough for one more use, just install some studs. Advance should have the right size.

[heiche]

They're on top of your bureau next to your spare change.

 

Well that's where i'd look if it were me.

[xt2005bonbon]

Dude, you should set up a camera recording when you are going to start your engine for the first time. Like a youtube live or something . That'd be cool.

 

If you saw me last week when I started mine, I was sweating and very anxious. Don't want to scare you though.

[FJuan]

I piss my pants every time I start a new motor. A thousand things go through my mind before I put the key in. And then I start praying to the almighty motor gods as I'm turning the key.

[MTBwrench]

This might be of relevance for you: https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/blow-off-valve-components/cop-514-company23-tmic-stud-kit

 

For $8 (if you can find it locally) it's a sweet deal. I have this and their blow off valve stud kit as well. They really help with TMIC installation, too, honestly.

 

Also, why u no GroupN engine mounts? Those stock ones are poop.Well, at least mine were, after stage 2 mods they flopped apart.

[Tehnation]

I piss my pants every time I start a new motor. A thousand things go through my mind before I put the key in. And then I start praying to the almighty motor gods as I'm turning the key.

 

Offerings must be made to the gods! I usually start burning stuff

[Cincy05LGT]

I noticed you're using a mobile 1 oil filter. Hopefully you're not using matching oil...

[StkmltS]

Dude, you should set up a camera recording when you are going to start your engine for the first time. Like a youtube live or something . That'd be cool.

 

If you saw me last week when I started mine, I was sweating and very anxious. Don't want to scare you though.

I recorded all of the tear down for future reference (that I haven't needed yet), and I'll definitely record the first start. It'll be me pacing back and forth 20 times, getting in the car, getting back out, pacing again, fiddling with something, getting in the car, getting back out... repeat a few times... repeat once more... then I'll finally turn the key.

 

I piss my pants every time I start a new motor. A thousand things go through my mind before I put the key in. And then I start praying to the almighty motor gods as I'm turning the key.

That's why I'm putting it in Friday night and starting it up Saturday morning. Once I get it in my mind that it has to run TONIGHT I won't be able to stop myself, and if it doesn't start on the first try I'd end up working deep into the night on Friday until it started. Waiting until Saturday morning will allow me to go over my checklist on Friday night without feeling pressured to rush or skip over anything, and I'll be fresh from a few hours of sleep. Leaks are easier to see in the sunlight, and if something goes wrong out on the road I'd rather that happen during daylight hours. The victory will be sweeter on Saturday morning, so that's what I'll wait for.

 

This might be of relevance for you: https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/blow-off-valve-components/cop-514-company23-tmic-stud-kit

 

For $8 (if you can find it locally) it's a sweet deal. I have this and their blow off valve stud kit as well. They really help with TMIC installation, too, honestly.

 

Also, why u no GroupN engine mounts? Those stock ones are poop.Well, at least mine were, after stage 2 mods they flopped apart.

$8 for two studs and nuts seems a bit high. I'll price them out at the hardware store tonight, but I'm thinking I can get them for less than $5. Of course they won't be Co.23 brand $8 is probably worth it if someone can't find them locally or just doesn't want to deal with it. That's the beauty of capitalism.

 

I went with used OEM mounts because replacing them was unplanned and I'm trying to keep the overall cost of the project as low as reasonably possible.

GroupN mounts are still on my Amazon wish list for "someday".

 

Offerings must be made to the gods! I usually start burning stuff

I don't care if I get the car started at 6am, during the first 20-30 minutes of idling I'm going to smoke a cigar and drink a cold beer from an ice-cold frosty mug.

Edited September 13, 2016 by StkmltS