Andrew's DiySB Rebuild

[xt2005bonbon]

I hope you're using a spreadsheet for that though. I can send you a copy of mine if you have not made one already. You input the current bucket size and it outputs what you should get.

[BarManBean]

I hope you're using a spreadsheet for that though. I can send you a copy of mine if you have not made one already. You input the current bucket size and it outputs what you should get.

 

Input current bucket size AND measured clearance, yes?

[StkmltS]

I have somewhat of a problem with spreadsheets.

I have so many that I need a spreadsheet to track my other spreadsheets. It's getting rediculous and the only end to it is getting the motor back in the car. Until then I welcome the idea of adding another spreadsheet to my collection

 

Because of my longer-than-OEM valves it looks like I'll only have 5 non-ground buckets in the motor. Two of my valves need buckets smaller than the smallest OEM size.

 

Sent from inner space.

[xt2005bonbon]

Input current bucket size AND measured clearance, yes?

 

Correct. I typed this right before my power nap

 

Because of my longer-than-OEM valves it looks like I'll only have 5 non-ground buckets in the motor. Two of my valves need buckets smaller than the smallest OEM size.

 

Sent from inner space.

 

Really? Which sizes are you needing that are that small?

[StkmltS]

In case y'all are wondering what my setup looks like.

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160905/814eed077dec1964fbfb4e543bbb2eca.jpg

[heiche]

Andrew's Custom Buckets, Inc.

[birkhoff]

I have somewhat of a problem with spreadsheets.

I have so many that I need a spreadsheet to track my other spreadsheets. It's getting rediculous and the only end to it is getting the motor back in the car. Until then I welcome the idea of adding another spreadsheet to my collection

 

Because of my longer-than-OEM valves it looks like I'll only have 5 non-ground buckets in the motor. Two of my valves need buckets smaller than the smallest OEM size.

 

Sent from inner space.

 

I believe machine shops just tip off the top of the valve stems to set clearance, even in a rebuild situation.

 

In a rebuild, the valves will sit deeper in the head anyway, so clearances will all be too low. It is a simple matter then to set up, measure and record what has to come off, disassemble, then tip all the valves at once to the required cut. No messing with the buckets in that case.

[M4rked1]

I believe machine shops just tip off the top of the valve stems to set clearance, even in a rebuild situation.

 

In a rebuild, the valves will sit deeper in the head anyway, so clearances will all be too low. It is a simple matter then to set up, measure and record what has to come off, disassemble, then tip all the valves at once to the required cut. No messing with the buckets in that case.

 

Isn't it pretty much the same thing? except with the buckets you don't have to remove the valve? Either way you have to remove metal, and going back and forth with the buckets seems way easier.

[birkhoff]

Well, dimensionally the same, but valve stems are routinely modified (up to a point) while buckets are not normally ground in an overhaul. The concern with both is how deep the hardening extends into the part and maintaining the required finish and shape

 

There should be no back and forth tipping valves. Once the required cut is calculated, it would take a pretty bad machinist to not hit the spec on reassembly.

 

I can't recall 100%, but I think my shop budgeted about 4 hours labour to assemble both heads after cleaning and recutting/boring the cam journals, so that means time for assembly, measure, take apart, cut the valves, have a smoke break, re-assemble, and check. There's $400 CDN mind you, right there!

 

Swapping buckets and/or grinding them is the only option with the head on the block, but if it is already off and you have access to vernier equipped grinding machine. . .

[StkmltS]

Lookie, lookie, I'm finished with the valve clearances. I'll post up the numbers after I re-check everything with the TB installed.

 

After I got my groove down it was actually kinda fun. Towards the end it was only taking about 15 minutes per bucket. The finish looks pretty good too (more on that topic later.)

It's just like I always say... Measure twice, cut thirteen times.

 

The annoyance of removing the valves seems like it would always be more desirable to just grind down the buckets.

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160907/bd4858e21780571829dc31ab4c48d759.jpg

Edited September 7, 2016 by StkmltS

[birkhoff]

What was the most you ground off a bucket?

 

Also curious to know how the surface finish worked out.

[StkmltS]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160907/41c58e3a76f002b5fffba4fdf9a11f93.jpg

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160907/4b1f6704593034c7567805ec0796d9cd.jpg

[StkmltS]

A few pics just for peace of mind. All of the belt marks matched properly until I rotated the crank a few times.

 

Crank:

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160907/c0184abd44498a857ee3aab318e7e5c2.jpg

 

1 and 3

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160907/62c0df2455f38c851e4d73a06f0d6595.jpg

 

2 and 4

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160907/a0940f44d02a60e8086f95690b797ca5.jpg

Edited September 7, 2016 by StkmltS
Pics

[FJuan]

Starting to look like a motor out of a Tron movie.

[xt2005bonbon]

so what are your clearances now that the timing belt is on?

[StkmltS]

Starting to look like a motor out of a Tron movie.

On its own it's a little too much, but once it's in the car it should look less flamboyant and more tasteful. At least that's what I'm hoping for.

[StkmltS]

so what are your clearances now that the timing belt is on?

I'll try to post my before/after clearances tomorrow if I get a chance at work.

[StkmltS]

The last two pieces to get painted and wrapped. The stupid O2 sensor won't budge.

 

If I'm lucky tomorrow will be my last stop at the hardware store for nuts and bolts.

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160909/a032272191ce7268eb5a12f0a0477885.jpg

[Max Capacity]

IMO, get that O2 sensor out now, while its easy to get too. It won't be as much fun in a few months under the car in cold weather fighting with a stuck O2 sensor.

 

Use the ATF and acetone trick or heat from a torch, or pay a repair shop to get it out.

[birkhoff]

Mine wouldn't budge either. I bolted the m'fold to a strong wooden table, cut off the cable and put a deep socket on what was left. Still needed a LOT of breaker bar action to get it out. Be prepared to chase the threads before you put a new one in.

 

Crowfoot wrenches (which I had) and cutaway sockets (which I made) all sprung long before I could get the thing to move.

[SBT]

I bought a forged steel O2 socket - it has worked on everything I've applied it to. Has a small slot to thread the cable through and terrifically thick walls, so it doesn't flex. And it's 1/2" so I can put a breaker bar and a BA pipe extension on it if need be. Kroil has gotten it off when nothing else would loosen the rust.

[BarManBean]

I bought a forged steel O2 socket - it has worked on everything I've applied it to. Has a small slot to thread the cable through and terrifically thick walls, so it doesn't flex. And it's 1/2" so I can put a breaker bar and a BA pipe extension on it if need be. Kroil has gotten it off when nothing else would loosen the rust.

 

Brand? I need to buy a new one.

[MTBwrench]

My solution to this very issue was a really beefy forged 1/2" drive O2 socket from my local parts shop, and a beefy hose clamp. Put the socket on the sensor, thread the wire through the slot, and then slip the hose clamp on and crank it down. Then I used a 3ft breaker bar and it popped right free. Prior to that I was 110% convinced I'd be buying a new collector pipe.

[SBT]

Brand? I need to buy a new one.

 

Believe it was either Proto or SK. Can't get to the toolbox yet, so can't say for sure.

[SBT]

Looks just like this TEKTON one, which is also drop-forged steel