Andrew's DiySB Rebuild

[xt2005bonbon]

When it comes out I'm gonna be piiiiist if it's not cracked!

 

 

Can't wait to see what your findings.

[StkmltS]

Let the records show that the motor is out!http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160624/8b4e9bb11706a554efa323bc3b2643e2.jpg

 

Sent from inner space.

[birkhoff]

I think you've done this before

 

Congratulations. Install is just around the corner.

[Tehnation]

did u use a normal engine hoist? space looks tight.

[StkmltS]

I think you've done this before

 

Congratulations. Install is just around the corner.

 

The broken motor mounts suggests otherwise

I'm really looking forward to getting it torn-down and inspected.

 

did u use a normal engine hoist? space looks tight.

I used a massive heavy-duty 2-ton hoist. The space is/looks a little tight right now but there was still plenty of room to get the hoist legs out from under the car and rotated 90°. With the motor out I'm going to tidy up the empty engine bay and push the car out of the garage so I have plenty of room to move around.

Edited June 24, 2016 by StkmltS

[birkhoff]

When you get to removing the heads, remember to release the bolts in stages in the reverse order of the torque sequence (from FSM). Not a bad idea to follow the same practice with the case bolts. The suggested teardown procedure is in the FSM for both.

 

The case is split at the bench, which is what all the cyl 2 &4 stuff is about, so you end up taking the RHS case off the LHS. In practice, they will stick together pretty well so you can just take all the bolts out and use your preferred method to split.

[StkmltS]

I'll definitely be splitting the heads/case in reverse torque sequence.

 

I watched a video somewhere that showed a guy getting the case apart by turning the crank. I'll did around and see if I can find a link.

 

Pic is current status of the motor. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160626/e7a20c91ca1c285d984389074ac821db.jpg

 

Sent from inner space.

[birkhoff]

I have a bunch of pics sitting here ready to go into a `how to split your case' post but just haven't gotten around to making it. It includes pictures of using the crank itself to break things open.

 

Basically, once you have all the bolts out, insert a wooden dowel through the cylinder access ports and the wrist pin bushing on one cylinder. Turn the crank in the direction to press the case apart. Repeat as required in a cross-wise back and forth pattern at the other cylinders so as to walk the case apart. Takes only a minute or so and nothing gets beat on.

 

Here are two relevant pics. Sorry about the poor quality.

[heiche]

Interesting technique! I did the "use the scissor jack that came with the car to push the halves apart from the back of the engine" technique. If it doesn't come apart right away, look closer for any sneaky bolts that remain. There's one tiny one hiding underneath (where the oil pan would go) that can easily go unnoticed.

[Tehnation]

I just used the BFH..... a rubber one.... couple love taps and came right apart for me. Edited June 26, 2016 by Tehnation

[StkmltS]

If anyone reading this thinks paying a shop $1000 for a tear-down is a ripoff, don't. It's exhausting.

 

Current status: I'm making good progress, but a little behind schedule because I took a long break on Saturday to find Dory with my two daughters.

Yesterday I inspected valve lash and did a leak-down test. With the exception of one exhaust valve they're all within spec. Leak-down was 15-17% across all cylinders.

 

One of the exhaust ports for cylinder #2 is strangely cleaner than the rest. There's also some cruddy build-up around the valve stem where it goes into the valve guide. My guess is that it was caused by the misfire sending unburned fuel past the valve. I'm trying to upload a pic but it keeps failing...

 

How does the dip stick tube connect to the oil pan? Naturally I'm asking the Internet before consulting the FSM

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160627/0349b09071b391cd22b9ae79c63e3605.jpg

Edited June 27, 2016 by StkmltS

[xt2005bonbon]

If anyone reading this thinks paying a shop $1000 for a tear-down is a ripoff, don't. It's exhausting.

 

Current status: I'm making good progress, but a little behind schedule because I took a long break on Saturday to find Dory with my two daughters.

Yesterday I inspected valve lash and did a leak-down test. With the exception of one exhaust valve they're all within spec. Leak-down was 15-17% across all cylinders.

 

How does the dip stick tube connect to the oil pan? Naturally I'm asking the Internet before consulting the FSM

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160627/0349b09071b391cd22b9ae79c63e3605.jpg

 

So the teardown was that exhausting huh?

 

Isn't there a bolt holding the dipstick tube somewhere which you need to loosen or something?

 

Oh and did you find Dory ?

 

 

p.s: can't wait to see your pistons.

[BarManBean]

Dipstick tube has a 10mm bolt on the top of the block and then you just pull it out. It just has a double oring that "holds" it into the oil pan.

[birkhoff]

Dipstick. As I recall:

 

One bolt at the top, into the head. O'wise, just pull it upward out of the tube in the oil pan. There are 2(?) O-rings in there that I would definitely replace.

 

OOPS: double post. Sorry BBM.

 

Suggestion: get some penetrating oil on those bolts holding the belt guides to the back timing cover. They get corroded and it is very easy to tear out the threaded insert from the plastic cover. Go slowly, or you will be buying a one or more new back covers. Felt strips and sealing tape for the back covers was not in my gasket kit. You may want to order those in advance. Also consider renewing the plastic grommets behind the back cover bolts. They get really brittle with heat.

Edited June 27, 2016 by birkhoff
Double post

[BarManBean]

Also, let me know what sized bucket you might need to adjust valve lash. I might be able to help out with the right size.

[StkmltS]

We found Dory! It was pretty funny with a few genuinely LOL moments. My favorite was when the seals yelled "Off! Off! Off!".

 

The tear-down has been exhausting because the temperature in my garage was about 90° all weekend and humidity is stupid high, like 80%. I may take a break one night this week and see what it takes to add a dedicated breaker (and new wiring) for my garage. I have a solid-gold window-unit air-conditioner from my old apartment just sitting on a shelf begging to get plugged in. If I had air in the garage I'm sure I'd work at least 600% faster. My garage is on the same 10-amp breaker as the entire basement and both bathrooms, so I can't even turn on my compressor (much less an air conditioner) without running an extension cord through the house and down to the 20-amp washing machine outlet in the basement.

 

There's a bolt holding the tube near the top of the motor, but it's out. I can wiggle the tube and rotate it as much as the space allows, but it just won't come out of the pan.

Answered before I clicked save.

 

What's the best way to release the cam sprockets so that the cams don't spin super fast?

[StkmltS]

Also, let me know what sized bucket you might need to adjust valve lash. I might be able to help out with the right size.

 

Is there anything that you don't have?

[xt2005bonbon]

What's the best way to release the cam sprockets so that the cams don't spin super fast?

 

I did it using my hands . You need to have a good strong grip though. IOW, not recommended..

[BarManBean]

What's the best way to release the cam sprockets so that the cams don't spin super fast?

 

The bolts are still in there right? Just use a hex socket / allen key, engage both pulleys, remove whatever you have holding them in place, and then slowly rotate one to unloaded position and then the other.

 

Is there anything that you don't have?

 

A clutch slave cylinder? I don't have one of those, someone asked me the other day.

[xt2005bonbon]

the bolts are still in there right? Just use a hex socket / allen key, engage both pulleys, remove whatever you have holding them in place, and then slowly rotate one to unloaded position and then the other.

 

 

+1.

[Tehnation]

Use the old timing belt to wrap it around each side and and then use some vice grips to grip them down

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v300/beavis820/DSCF0172.jpg

 

Something like that

[Tehnation]

hmmm.... i think i'm talking about cam gear removal not slowing it down!

 

You need to pull the gears in order to pull the heads.

 

Are you rebuilding the heads yourself? If not, I wouldn't worry about the lashes etc.

Edited June 27, 2016 by Tehnation

[StkmltS]

The bolts are still in there. I have a c-clamp applying pressure to both sides of the cams, between the cams. You can see it in my last pic. I can stop one cam from spinning by using a hex head, but the other one will still be under pressure/tension. Maybe I'm not understanding what you mean by engage both pulleys. I have my old timing belt to use for this, but the c-clamp is keeping me from wrapping it around the sprocket.

 

hmmm.... i think i'm talking about cam gear removal not slowing it down!

 

You need to pull the gears in order to pull the heads.

 

Are you rebuilding the heads yourself? If not, I wouldn't worry about the lashes etc.

Yes, I'm rebuilding the heads myself. At this point measuring the valve lash was just for fun.

Edited June 27, 2016 by StkmltS

[BarManBean]

The bolts are still in there. I have a c-clamp applying pressure to both sides of the cams, between the cams. You can see it in my last pic. I can stop one cam from spinning by using a hex head, but the other one will still be under pressure/tension. Maybe I'm not understanding what you mean by engage both pulleys.

.

 

You need two allen keys of the same size, for example. One for each pulley. Then remove the c-clamp. Then slowly release tension on both sprockets by rotating the allen keys individually.

 

Make sense?

[StkmltS]

That would definitely work.

I'll think about it all day and try to find a free way to do it. I gotta protect that $500 oh-crap section of my spreadsheet!