Andrew's DiySB Rebuild

[BarManBean]

Free way: let 'em snap shut and carry on.

 

(don't do that if you can help it, but that's exactly what happened when I was working and the consensus is that it's not really an issue)

Edited June 27, 2016 by BarManBean

[xt2005bonbon]

^yeah. I don't think it'll hurt anything.

[birkhoff]

The bolts are still in there. I have a c-clamp applying pressure to both sides of the cams, between the cams. You can see it in my last pic. I can stop one cam from spinning by using a hex head, but the other one will still be under pressure/tension. Maybe I'm not understanding what you mean by engage both pulleys. I have my old timing belt to use for this, but the c-clamp is keeping me from wrapping it around the sprocket.

 

You need to unload the cams on the #2,4 side before you pull the bolts out.

 

Since you already have an allen socket, put it into the exhaust cam bolt with your breaker bar* and tie that off to hold the exhaust cam from spinning. You should be able to ease the intake cam back to free position with your hands. Once the exhaust is locked down, have someone release your C-clamp while you hold the intake cam gear firmly and then slowly let it go back into neutral position. I believe the intake should be released cclockwise when viewed from the front; the exhaust opposite. What you are trying to avoid is pushing past the nose of the cam and forcing the valves full open. Since you have the rocker covers off, you can just look at the position of the cam to see the correct way to rotate and release.

 

Once the intake is in neutral, you can rotate the exhaust in any direction without worrying about crashing valves. FSM would say clockwise.

 

Chances are, if the gears are lined to the match marks, if you just let them go they will snap back in the right direction. But it does pay to take care if you want to re-use your valves (and you do!).

 

Of course all this is done with the crank mark lined up, right? That puts all four pistons part way down the bores.

 

*Don't use a regular ratchet since you don't know which way the cam wants to spin. You could figure it out of course, but you don't have to with the breaker bar.

[xt2005bonbon]

You need to unload the cams on the #2,4 side before you pull the bolts out.

 

Since you already have an allen socket, put it into the exhaust cam bolt with your breaker bar* and tie that off to hold the exhaust cam from spinning. You should be able to ease the intake cam back to free position with your hands. Once the exhaust is locked down, have someone release your C-clamp while you hold the intake cam gear firmly and then slowly let it go back into neutral position. I believe the intake should be released cclockwise when viewed from the front; the exhaust opposite. What you are trying to avoid is pushing past the nose of the cam and forcing the valves full open. Since you have the rocker covers off, you can just look at the position of the cam to see the correct way to rotate and release.

 

Once the intake is in neutral, you can rotate the exhaust in any direction without worrying about crashing valves. FSM would say clockwise.

 

Chances are, if the gears are lined to the match marks, if you just let them go they will snap back in the right direction. But it does pay to take care if you want to re-use your valves (and you do!).

 

Of course all this is done with the crank mark lined up, right? That puts all four pistons part way down the bores.

 

*Don't use a regular ratchet since you don't know which way the cam wants to spin. You could figure it out of course, but you don't have to with the breaker bar.

 

You refreshed my memory. That is exactly what I did. Breaker bar plus my hands .

[StkmltS]

You need to unload the cams on the #2,4 side before you pull the bolts out.

 

Since you already have an allen socket, put it into the exhaust cam bolt with your breaker bar* and tie that off to hold the exhaust cam from spinning. You should be able to ease the intake cam back to free position with your hands. Once the exhaust is locked down, have someone release your C-clamp while you hold the intake cam gear firmly and then slowly let it go back into neutral position. I believe the intake should be released cclockwise when viewed from the front; the exhaust opposite. What you are trying to avoid is pushing past the nose of the cam and forcing the valves full open. Since you have the rocker covers off, you can just look at the position of the cam to see the correct way to rotate and release.

 

Once the intake is in neutral, you can rotate the exhaust in any direction without worrying about crashing valves. FSM would say clockwise.

 

Chances are, if the gears are lined to the match marks, if you just let them go they will snap back in the right direction. But it does pay to take care if you want to re-use your valves (and you do!).

 

Of course all this is done with the crank mark lined up, right? That puts all four pistons part way down the bores.

 

*Don't use a regular ratchet since you don't know which way the cam wants to spin. You could figure it out of course, but you don't have to with the breaker bar.

 

My c-clamp is locking the two sprockets together, so moving one without the other isn't possible. If it were possible then what you said would work great. I'm slow at work today so I made a little picture that should explain how they're locked together. Of course my brilliance is groundbreaking and will be shared on the Internet for years and years, so I spent extra time adding my email address so it'll make me rich. Cause, you know, that's how the Internet works. I call it the $20-to-me tool (Copyright 2016, naturally)

 

Actually I'm not reusing any of the valves. Since this is a 100% at-home DIY project and an experienced person won't be inspecting the heads, I determined that buying all new valves would reduce any risk I'm creating by not inspecting the valve guides (because I'm not equipped to properly inspect them). Any wear or taper in the guides will be somewhat offset by the new (full size, perfectly straight) valve stems.

[BarManBean]

You aren't understanding for some reason.

 

Using two tools of your choice that comes in a hex shaped variety and also fits the current cam bolts (i recommend to allen wrenches, or one allen wrench plus a breaker bar with a hex bit installed), hold the cams in place. Using an extra set of hands (or bracing the tools so the cams don't spin, REMOVE the existing c-clamp or whatever you have in place. Now the cams are free to spin, EXCEPT that you are holding them in place with hex-shaped tools, right? Now slowly move hex-shaped tool such that one sprocket rotates and removes the load--if you hit resistance of any kind, go back to timing mark and start with other sprocket. After the load is removed from one cam by rotating that sprocket, do the same with the other sprocket.

 

Done. Now figure out a way to hold your sprockets in place while you loose the cam bolts.

[Tehnation]

With all this subaru mentality that everything is rocket science nonsense, i almost forgot how easy it is to grind/lap and seat a valve..... More power to ya!!!

 

I never even thought to rebuild my heads myself. Its not exactly that complicated either. Valve grinding compound is pretty much all u need..

[StkmltS]

You aren't understanding for some reason.

 

Using two tools of your choice that comes in a hex shaped variety and also fits the current cam bolts (i recommend to allen wrenches, or one allen wrench plus a breaker bar with a hex bit installed), hold the cams in place. Using an extra set of hands (or bracing the tools so the cams don't spin, REMOVE the existing c-clamp or whatever you have in place. Now the cams are free to spin, EXCEPT that you are holding them in place with hex-shaped tools, right? Now slowly move hex-shaped tool such that one sprocket rotates and removes the load--if you hit resistance of any kind, go back to timing mark and start with other sprocket. After the load is removed from one cam by rotating that sprocket, do the same with the other sprocket.

 

Done. Now figure out a way to hold your sprockets in place while you loose the cam bolts.

 

Only getting 3 hours of sleep can do that. I don't think I've gotten more than 5 hours of sleep in a night since this rebuild started. Dang you Subaru!!!!!

 

I didn't even think to use an allen key, although I don't think I have a set that goes that large.

 

The haze is starting to lift now, I think I'm understanding. I thought he was saying to lock the exhaust sprocket down with an allen bit, then just turn the intake cam with my hand. He didn't type "remove clamp" so I didn't think it. I was like "Ok geniuses, how am I supposed to turn it if it's clamped down?"

 

With all this subaru mentality that everything is rocket science nonsense, i almost forgot how easy it is to grind/lap and seat a valve..... More power to ya!!!

 

I never even thought to rebuild my heads myself. Its not exactly that complicated either. Valve grinding compound is pretty much all u need..

 

Thanks for the reminder, I forgot to order a valve lapping tool.

*edit* Nope, I forgot that I remembered to order a lapping tool.

Edited June 27, 2016 by StkmltS

[StkmltS]

Post #5 updated with some inspection results.

[BarManBean]

*edit* Nope, I forgot that I remembered to order a lapping tool.

 

:lol:

[xt2005bonbon]

^Nice catch

[birkhoff]

... Once the exhaust is locked down, have someone release your C-clamp while you hold the intake cam gear firmly and then slowly let it go back into neutral position.

 

I think I'm kinda slow getting the hang of this internet forum thing.

 

One sentence is better than 10. One word better than one sentence . . . This is what I meant to write:

 

 

= tie down one cam, hold the other

= let go the clamp

= figure out which way to turn the other so as not to go over the cam nose

= nothing goes crunch?

= release the second cam

= I did it.

[StkmltS]

Well, you did say to remove the clamp and I totally missed it.

I'm not hitting on all cylinders today... ba dum tsss.

 

Tonight I'll check the valve lash post-TB removal, and I'll start getting my inspection area in the basement situated.

I feel like a zombie and I need some rest.

[xt2005bonbon]

Tonight I'll check the valve lash post-TB removal,

 

post or pre ?

[StkmltS]

post or pre ?

Post. Yesterday I measured everything pre-TB removal. My thinking is that the timing belt is annoying to put on and take off, so by knowing approximately how much the lash changes I'll be able to get the clearance on the new valves pretty close before putting the TB back on.

 

I didn't measure the valve clearance tonight, but I did remove the c-clamp. I put a couple pieces of thin wood strips between the cam lobes and the head, and then I let 'er rip. The cams spun a little bit as expected, but the wood kept them from spinning more than desired. No damage, and way easier and quicker than anything else. I recorded a video and I'll be posting it to YouTube tomorrow.

[Tehnation]

Well, you did say to remove the clamp and I totally missed it.

I'm not hitting on all cylinders today... ba dum tsss.

 

Tonight I'll check the valve lash post-TB removal, and I'll start getting my inspection area in the basement situated.

I feel like a zombie and I need some rest.

 

Make sure to recharge yourself!! Only bad things happen when you work tired or exhausted, you're more prone to mistakes and injuries!

[birkhoff]

I put a couple pieces of thin wood strips between the cam lobes and the head, and then I let 'er rip.

 

That works too

 

Most likely they spun in the right direction.

[StkmltS]

That works too

 

Most likely they spun in the right direction.

 

Absolutely. When the cam sprockets are lined up properly the cam lobes aren't pointing directly down towards the buckets. The intake lobes for cyl 2 looks to be about 20% off-center, and the exhaust lobes for cyl 4 look to be about 60° off center. If that makes any sense. They "want" to spin in the correct direction that brings them back to closed (minimal spring tension). The intake cam wants to spin up (ccw) and the exhaust cam wants to spin down (cw)

 

As long as you put the wood stoppers on the correct side of the cams they only spin about 90° or so. They spin quick, but not very hard. The shims I used didn't even get dented where the lobes hit. My shims were white pine (from a 2x4) so I thought for sure they'd leave some kind of mark.

Edited June 28, 2016 by StkmltS

[xt2005bonbon]

ok cool. So where are the pistons already?

 

Joking joking, get some rest.

Edited June 28, 2016 by xt2005bonbon

[StkmltS]

I got plenty of rest last night, almost 7 hours worth. My wife took the kids to her sister's house all day today so I'll be able to get in about 4-5 hours of work tonight and still get to bed by 11pm. Last night I picked up a 30A circuit breaker and some 10-2 wiring from Home Depot so that I can install my air conditioner in the garage.

 

Now I need to decide on what to do first, seeing piston #2 or having an air conditioned garage.

[xt2005bonbon]

You want my vote? You know my vote .

[StkmltS]

haha yeah I'm pretty sure I can guess how most people who don't have to work in my garage would vote.

[StkmltS]

What the heck, my "new" catless UP from an '07 doesn't have a hole for my stock EGT sensor.

 

Last night I ran new wiring and added a dedicated breaker for the garage. Now my air compressor runs like it should instead of bogging down and tripping the breaker that somehow supplies power to a couple outlets in every room of the house and the entire basement. Overcoming this obstacle is a big deal because now pressure testing the heads and sandblasting everything won't be harder than it should be. Also I can add air conditioning

 

Tonight I'm taking off all four cam sprockets and the heads. I'll be a very happy camper if all four bolts come out without breakage.

 

How many HP do you think my new TiC FU bolts will add? Can I safely turn up boost with the new bolts? Also, will this valve work on my car? I'd like to add it while I've got the motor apart.

[BarManBean]

Resistor mod for the EGT

 

Edit: for this^ I have a handful of EGT sensor connectors that I've clipped off over the years. You can use them to solder in a resistor using the pigtails, heat wrap and make it nice and clean, and they you just plug the new resistor "dongle" into the EGT sensor on the car. Makes it clean and easy.

Edited June 29, 2016 by BarManBean

[BarManBean]

Do you have a GOOD bit for removing the cam bolts? I believe that's the key.