Andrew's DiySB Rebuild

[StkmltS]

Resistor mod for the EGT

 

Edit: for this^ I have a handful of EGT sensor connectors that I've clipped off over the years. You can use them to solder in a resistor using the pigtails, heat wrap and make it nice and clean, and they you just plug the new resistor "dongle" into the EGT sensor on the car. Makes it clean and easy.

I like the idea of keeping the sensor functional. Maybe instead of welding it back into the UP I'll just relocate it in the engine bay near the turbo to monitor under-hood temps ...assuming the probe is accurate in that low range of temperature.

 

Do you have a GOOD bit for removing the cam bolts? I believe that's the key.

I have this set of Craftsman (Evolv) hex bit sockets. It worked well when I used it to take off the two driver side sprockets when I adjusted my valves a year or so ago. They're not impact rated or one-piece sockets like the really good ones are, but the actual hex portion is the same thickness all the way down into the socket (vs this one).

 

*edit* My 1000th post. Do I get an Internet Mechanic certificate now?

Edited June 29, 2016 by StkmltS

[StkmltS]

Releasing valve spring compression to remove my cam-lock tool

.

I'm recording everything with the intention of eventually cleaning up the videos and putting them online. For now this is all I have ready.

 

Post #4 updated with the video.

[BarManBean]

I like the idea of keeping the sensor functional. Maybe instead of welding it back into the UP I'll just relocate it in the engine bay near the turbo to monitor under-hood temps ...assuming the probe is accurate in that low range of temperature.

 

Might be cool. Keep in mind that it will throw a CEL if it's not seeing appropriate temps for exhaust gasses, so just make sure you turn that off in your tune.

[StkmltS]

Here's what I'm hoping to accomplish tonight:

 

Remove the two exhaust cam sprockets

Remove the two intake cam sprockets

Remove the rear timing belt covers. P/S and D/S

Remove the thermostat and housing

Disconnect the three coolant lines at the water pump

Remove the water pump

Remove the coolant lines on the top of the D/S head

Remove the oil control valve oil line on the driver side head.

Remove P/S cam bearing caps

Remove P/S cams

Remove P/S head studs/nuts

Remove P/S head

Remove D/S cam bearing caps

Remove D/S cams

Remove D/S head studs/nuts

Remove D/S head

Remove the oil filter

Remove the cover on the bottom of the flywheel

Remove the oil pick up

Remove the windage tray

Remove both*engine*mounts

Remove the oil pan

Remove oil pump, cooler, oil filter threading and coolant line from cooler to block

Remove the mount (front/top/driver side, behind the timing belt rear cover)

Remove the flywheel, pilot bearing clutch and TOB

Bare shortblock!

 

This all seems pretty reasonable as long as long as the cam sprocket bolts don't screw me over. I have to be at work early on Friday (5am-1pm) so tomorrow night I probably won't get anything done. Hopefully I'll have some pics of piston #2 by Friday evening.

 

Might be cool. Keep in mind that it will throw a CEL if it's not seeing appropriate temps for exhaust gasses, so just make sure you turn that off in your tune.

Noted.

Edited June 29, 2016 by StkmltS

[xt2005bonbon]

Yeah. hopefully these bolts won't give you any issues..

Just in case, this is what I did to take the exhaust side off:

 

Well, great news: exhaust cambolt came off using a bolt extractor from HF ($23 the set). Used 11/16 size. Had to grind a bit the bolt using a dremel. And then, tapped the bolt extractor, used breaker bar and voila! It was not too bad. Happy to report this method works great.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=211073&d=1434630867

 

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=211074&d=1434630867

[StkmltS]

Um, can I get a mod to please delete any posts with pics predicting horrible things?

 

In all seriousness, I have my old TB ready to use for this and I've been eye-balling that extractor set at my local HF, so I know exactly where it is when the time comes

[seanyb505]

Oddly enough mine came out with little drama even with <200k on the car. Impact hex, breaker bar and jack handle extension on the end.

 

There's hope yet!

[StkmltS]

All four bolts came out with much effort at all. 10 minutes and they were out. Anybody wanna buy four lucky cam bolts?http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160630/62b29caf454083a675c80b3514d46630.jpg

[BarManBean]

Mine were pretty much the same. I think a good solid bit does the job well.

[rhino6303]

Mine were pretty much the same. I think a good solid bit does the job well.

A good, solid bit and having the motor out of the engine bay. It's really only tricky if you're removing the cams with the motor installed.

[StkmltS]

The longblock is now a shortblock.

 

Upon removal of the heads nothing scary jumped out at me. No ringland pieces floating around in the combustion chamber, no obviously bent or burnt valves, and after a quick glance both head gaskets looked good (not failed).

 

What's the deal not being able to load pics? "Upload of the file failed". I've uploaded pics plenty of times and I know to check the file size limits. It seems like I have this problem every time I have juicy stuff to post. Maybe it's the IT guys at work being bullies. If Hillary gets elected I'll report them.

 

*edit* I remoted in to my home computer and the files still won't upload. I tried a couple times and once it gave me a "bla bla security token is missing bla bla" message.

Edited June 30, 2016 by StkmltS

[BarManBean]

You are making great progress, keep it up.

 

Remind me--you are doing all of this because of a misfire and finding a hairline crack on a piston face?

[StkmltS]

Yep, a misfire that couldn't be cured. I tried everything under the sun and nothing could fix it, change it, or move it. Remapping my MAF scaling helped a ton with my rough idling and stalling, but the misfire never changed. I eventually boro'd the cylinder and found what looked like a crack, so I pulled the rebuild trigger. It's been a long and painful journey getting here (xt and heiche can confirm), and emotionally I need to find a crack in #2. One way or another piston #2 will be cracked!

[BarManBean]

I have that cracked piston. Can be used as supporting evidence if needed

[xt2005bonbon]

One way or another piston #2 will be cracked!

 

 

nice work OP. Now let's get pictures uploaded or make a quick youtube video and post the link.

So, how do the scratches on the cylinder walls look like with your eyes compared to when using the borescope? can't wait to see it.

[M4rked1]

StkmltS, I have searched these forums quite a lot and I have your your misfire and rebuild threads to be the most well documented and thought out, by a huge margin! I check daily now for updates. I have started my own journey down the cyl 2 misfire rabbit hole! I am impatiently awaiting updates!

[StkmltS]

I just tried again to post pics from my work computer and from my home computer, but the uploads are still failing.

[StkmltS]

StkmltS, I have searched these forums quite a lot and I have your your misfire and rebuild threads to be the most well documented and thought out, by a huge margin! I check daily now for updates. I have started my own journey down the cyl 2 misfire rabbit hole! I am impatiently awaiting updates!

[xt2005bonbon]

I just tried again to post pics from my work computer and from my home computer, but the uploads are still failing.

 

Perharps PM SBT?

[seanyb505]

I tried to upload a pic the other day that was within size limits. Shrank it down even further and it eventually took.

[StkmltS]

I tried to upload a pic the other day that was within size limits. Shrank it down even further and it eventually took.

You're a genius.

Pics upload after reducing the sizes to 25% of original (1328x747, 761kb vs. 5312x2988, 5.02mb).

 

Here's the bare SB, the heads, and the oil pan. My garage lighting is terrible and at 2am there wasn't much sunlight. It's not as bad as the pics make it look, but it's not good. I'll take better pics later. For now this is all you get, so back off you filthy animals!

 

The driver side head is on the left, passenger side is on the right.

Intake valves are black, exhaust are white.

cyl 2 ..... cyl 1

cyl 4 ..... cyl 3

 

The oil pan was beautiful except for a globule of grey stuff that looks to have plopped out of the pickup. It looks like something that would plop or splat versus drop. I didn't touch it because I was scared. I'll have my 1.5 yo son taste it and report back on his opinion.

 

This weekend I need to find something to use as a surface plate.

Would it be odd to carry a straightedge and shims around in Home Depot to inspect the flatness of random objects? 'Cause I think that's what I'm going to do.

Edited June 30, 2016 by StkmltS

[birkhoff]

Heads look great. Maybe even a little too clean, but photos/shadows can make it hard to judge. At 110K miles it is unlikely the heads have been off before. Says a lot about how well these engines can survive if cared for.

 

Any pictures of the piston crowns? Cylinder walls? Before pulling pistons I mean.

 

You are moving quickly. Don't forget you are looking for a mechanical source for your misfire. Check the heads/valves carefully for hairline cracks or any other sign that could account for the symptoms. Especially the exhaust side of things. It is possible that you will finish the teardown and not discover anything obviously wrong. That can be really frustrating, and is something you want to avoid.

 

I just noticed your leakdown numbers entered into an earlier post. They look fine. Just like compression tests, it is generally more important that they are balanced, rather than the exact numerical values. Your gauge may be out of calibration, and the engine was cold. From those numbers I would not expect to find anything seriously wrong with the heads or the tops of the pistons.

[StkmltS]

Heads look great. Maybe even a little too clean, but photos/shadows can make it hard to judge. At 110K miles it is unlikely the heads have been off before. Says a lot about how well these engines can survive if cared for.

 

Any pictures of the piston crowns? Cylinder walls? Before pulling pistons I mean.

 

You are moving quickly. Don't forget you are looking for a mechanical source for your misfire. Check the heads/valves carefully for hairline cracks or any other sign that could account for the symptoms. Especially the exhaust side of things. It is possible that you will finish the teardown and not discover anything obviously wrong. That can be really frustrating, and is something you want to avoid.

 

I just noticed your leakdown numbers entered into an earlier post. They look fine. Just like compression tests, it is generally more important that they are balanced, rather than the exact numerical values. Your gauge may be out of calibration, and the engine was cold. From those numbers I would not expect to find anything seriously wrong with the heads or the tops of the pistons.

 

Everything about this LGT (except the misfire) is in awesome shape. If the rest of the car wasn't so nice I probably wouldn't have decided to rebuild the motor.

 

I'm happy the teardown has moved along fairly quickly, but the fast part is over and now it'll be pretty slow going for a while. Inspection is not something to be rushed.

 

Not finding an definite problem inside the motor is my biggest fear. The car still pulled hard up until the day I took the motor out, and I'm partially expecting the problem to be minor and hard to find. I'll be using florescent penetrant (FPI) to inspect the pistons for cracks, and even if a crack is tiny I'm sure I can find it. FPI is a beautiful thing. I'm also being extra careful to not disturb any dirt/buildup inside the motor until I'm ready to take a careful look at everything piece-by-piece.

 

When I disassemble the heads and SB this weekend I'll take plenty of before/during/after photos. Until now I've mostly just recorded video of everything as a reference for when I put stuff back together.

 

I don't have any good pics of the pistons or cylinder walls yet.

Crosshatching is still obvious and the crowns are all pretty evenly dirty. So far there only thing pointing to cylinder #2 (my misfire) is the strangely clean exhaust port and the gunky junk around the base of one of the exhaust valve stems. I'll be flooding this thread with pics this weekend.

[SBT]

I tried to upload a pic the other day that was within size limits. Shrank it down even further and it eventually took.

 

Pic sizing, due to the new server setup has recently increased from 500kb (3200x2400) to 7.63MB (6400 x 6400)

 

What error are you getting?

[BarManBean]

This weekend I need to find something to use as a surface plate. Would it be odd to carry a straightedge and shims around in Home Depot to inspect the flatness of random objects? 'Cause I think that's what I'm going to do.

 

Surface plate as in a large flat surface?

 

Panes of glass seem to be decent for that sometimes, maybe a scrap of granite / quartz from somewhere?