solidxsnake Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 Definitely looks like you have a vacuum leak, IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LegacyGTGa Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 Grrrr....any normal spots for them on these cars? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 IAM is holding and the car certainly went through initial Rough Correction Mode, and decide to enter Fine Learned Knock mode to pickup that minor 2.6K RPM and 1.1g/rev cell learned timing pulled. Your LV config granularity means that learned pulled timing was a. Learned b. Applies anywhere betwewn 2.6-3.2K RPM and 1.1 to 1.35g/rev. Not ideal but not that bad either. Chances are you are just entering boost when hitting these load cells. What I would do right away is scale your MAF by adding anywhere between 5-8% across the board. Cars had enough time to learn the Fueling adjustments and its telling you its running lean. Adding fuel to compensate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LegacyGTGa Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 How do I scale the MAF? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 Read up on tuning with ECUFlash... if that's over your head, get an e-tune from one of the many reputable vendors (paging Tuning Alliance...). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LegacyGTGa Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 Looking at ECUFlash right now. Are there any good how-to's or anything for this? Also, I went and drove it around some earlier. I held it on the floor up to about 100 MPH and I only hit 10.2 psi of boost. It was about 95 degrees outside, so I don't know if that would hurt anything. This is the first boosted car I've owned (other than my dad having an 86 Mustang SVO, but its always been completely stock and never messed with it). What all could keep it from making full boost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 Also, before you modify the tune, do make sure you are indeed free of vacuum leaks. On another note, from personal experience, the LV fuel trims can change very quickly. You don't really need to do a long drive for them to settle to whatever values. Although, fuel trim D may take a while to get adjusted. It all depends on your driving style though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LegacyGTGa Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 From earlier today.....I checked and noticed the intercooler where it connects on the DS where it connects to the TB hose (I think) was loose so I tightened it. BtSsm_LV_20160616_1418 by kornfan891, on Flickr BtSsm_LV_20160616_1349 by kornfan891, on Flickr BtSsm_LV_20160616_1312 by kornfan891, on Flickr BtSsm_LV_20160616_1256 by kornfan891, on Flickr BtSsm_LV_20160615_1944 by kornfan891, on Flickr BtSsm_LV_20160615_1916 by kornfan891, on Flickr BtSsm_LV_20160615_1504 by kornfan891, on Flickr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted June 17, 2016 Share Posted June 17, 2016 Those fueling corrections still look bad. Either more leaks or the MAF sensor is out of whack. I doubt that you'd see consistently lean conditions from 0 to 6, 6 to 6 and 10 to 40, and 40+ g/sec ranges like you do if you were only dealing with leaks. You don't need to attach all the LVs either, just summarize the Fuel Learn %s (you can average between the multiple LVs you took too if you'd like) and note where you're seeing Learned Knock timing pull, what the IAM is, etc. Make sure your MAF sensor is seated properly (perhaps re-seat it), clean the connector and plug, make sure the harness isn't bent or stretched (try adjusting it and watch your trims as you wiggle the cable and seat it differently). If none of that helps, and if you can't track down any more mechanical problems (pre/post MAF, pre/post turbo or exhaust leaks) - then I still vote you get a tune from one of our vendor tuners, at least have that MAF curve re-scaled to help the engine deal with the lean condition its seeing now. Sure, its just a fix to cure the 'symptom' and likely not the 'cause' of the scaling we're seeing here, but at least the car will run safer... especially if you don't fix anything else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LegacyGTGa Posted June 17, 2016 Share Posted June 17, 2016 I'll keep looking. This is so irritating. And I still can't get over 10.2 PSI of boost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 17, 2016 Share Posted June 17, 2016 I would avoid boost until you get this sorted out anyway. Cause you are running lean, which leads to knock which may lead to broken ringland. Also, a leak around the TB hose/ intercooler should lead to a boost leak, and would result in negative fuel trims, not positive (i.e. ecu is pulling fuel cause air has escaped before it got in the intake manifold). So if your positive values are due to a leak of some sort, it would be pre-turbo. If you can't find it, spend the 100$ to do a smoke test to confirm. Then, do what Perscitus said: check the MAF, MAF wiring. If it is all good, then time to tune. Until then, no boost for you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LegacyGTGa Posted June 17, 2016 Share Posted June 17, 2016 One other thing I noticed when I was doing the turbo inlet...theres a hose thats pretty much right on top of the block, under the intake that has a 180 degree bend in it. What hose is that? Mine seems to almost be crimped at the bend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 17, 2016 Share Posted June 17, 2016 Picture? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 17, 2016 Share Posted June 17, 2016 Also, have you tried this simple vacuum leak test? see bold below: Regular maintenance is the key to longevity of your forced induction engine. A major cause of stress to all turbo charged engines, especially MAF based systems are vacuum and boost leaks. As a turbocharger feeds air into a leaking system it begins to spin faster in an attempt to maintain the targeted boost level. This over spin creates decreased compressor efficiency and excess heat. Added heat increases the chances for knock and decreases power. In addition to hotter combustion the location of the leak will greatly effect the air to fuel ratio. Most vacuum leaks originating between the MAF sensor and turbo inlet will lean out the mixture, as outside are is drawn into the system beyond the point of metering. While boost leaks after the turbocharger typically make a rich in boost as air leaks out. Boost and vacuum leaks can occur in the manifold or tgv area which generate lean fueling in low load (vacuum) and rich fueling when above atmospheric pressure. Leaks will also effect the ecu's function as it tries to trim fuel to meet demands based on its sensor feedback. Learned fuel trims will often be greater than +/- 8. The key to optimal performance and reliability is to regularly check for boost and vacuum leaks. This test can be very simple and accomplished without many tools or a compressor. Leak Test: You will need, a flat head screw driver and a plug for the intake 2.75” OD (aerosol can, spray paint etc will work). You remove your intake from your inlet tube, then insert the can into the coupler just in front of the inlet tube. Next you remove the vacuum source line from the by-pass or blow-off valve and blow into the source line (which connects to the manifold). Try not use above 5 psi because the inlet, pcv, and valve breathers will be under pressure and could pop off or generate a leak. The breathers normally do not see boost pressure. I typically blow into the line with my mouth (lungs) because its quiet and easier to hear air coming out of the system. Once all leaks are contained I blow into it and put my thumb over the hose for 3-4 seconds, then release my finger, and it should still contain some pressure and you can hear it hiss back out at you. A smoke test is another good way to locate leak sources but a smoke machine is needed. Once all the leaks are sorted out its time to check the health of the tune. You will want to reset the ecu and warm the car up. You may now log idle and highway cruising. Observe the “A/F correction #1” and A/F learning #1” the total of these two should be less then 7%. Observe the DAM (dynamic advance multiplier) it should always be at 1.0 on a TA tune. Factory tune starts off at 0.5 and should rise up to 1.0. Email the results to your tuner! If this all looks good your now ready to do a full throttle log in 3rd or 4th gear. It is best to log a single run through part of the power band roughly (2500-5000rpm). No good reason to do multiple logs of the same conditions, especially if something is wrong. Your tuner may give you specific instructions of what to log depending the need. Email the tuner the results. Wait until they confirm is everything is correct. Typically, after the partial pull looks positive you will be asked for a full pull to redline. Followed by short pulls in higher gears. Driver must use judgment and drive responsibly in a safe place, while obeying speed limits laws, etc. Tuning Checklist: Eliminate all vacuum and boost leaks(leak or smoke test).Reset ECU and warm up engine to operating temperature.Record a short log idle and cruising. Email to tuner.Verify DAM = 1 (or 16 on older wrx ecu's)Record 2500-5000 full throttle in a middle gear (3rd for 5spd/5eat, 4th for 6spd) and email to tuner.If full boost logs look positive you may drive normally (boosting once in awhile is okay) for a few days. Then record another idle, cruise, and WOT log and email to your tuner. This is to track the long term learning as learned values can be carried across the entire RPM band and can lean or richen the fuel mixture. This can also be done periodically to check up on health, and detect developing leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LegacyGTGa Posted June 18, 2016 Share Posted June 18, 2016 Picture? This guy IMG_20160618_094205148 by kornfan891, on Flickr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LegacyGTGa Posted June 18, 2016 Share Posted June 18, 2016 Just found something....I bet this isn't helping. IMG_20160618_095352774[1] by kornfan891, on Flickr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LegacyGTGa Posted June 18, 2016 Share Posted June 18, 2016 Also, is there supposed to be this much of a gap between the turbo and IC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 18, 2016 Share Posted June 18, 2016 Nope. At least on mine, it looks nice and flush. And yeah, the crack in the hose you showed does not help either. And all those things are preturbo too, which can definitely contribute to your lean conditions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted June 18, 2016 Share Posted June 18, 2016 This guy IMG_20160618_094205148 by kornfan891, on Flickr I would replace that hose and maybe others with the oem formed hoses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LegacyGTGa Posted June 18, 2016 Share Posted June 18, 2016 Any idea what the name of that hose is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted June 18, 2016 Share Posted June 18, 2016 Any idea what the name of that hose is? It's just a vacuum hose. Here is the part number: 99071AC220 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 Also, you see that blue T underneath the tmic? Make sure you ziptie every single hose on it. They are notorious to pop off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LegacyGTGa Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 Here are my most recent. I also had my CEL come on giving me code P0171 System too lean. Could it be my MAF? BtSsm_LV_20160621_1143 by kornfan891, on Flickr BtSsm_LV_20160621_1450 by kornfan891, on Flickr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 Have you done a smoke test or a boost leak/vacuum test as I suggested earlier? If you have not, it'd be impossible to conclude if the MAF is bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 At this point it is pointless to keep showing the learning views without doing a boost leak and smoke test. You have a leak somewhere. Trying to find the leaks without a test is going to drive you crazy. You'll change one thing and the learned values will get better but then worse because of another leak somewhere. Find them and fix them all at once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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