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BTSSM says I have knock


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I'll stop by the dealer for a new OEM panel filter and see how it goes. I know I can get a new MAF cheaper online and a new front O2 sensor.

If I can spend maybe 500 and be able to keep the car long term then that's good for me. I'm just about willing to try anything right now besides a new shortblock.

Yep, no oil burn, no weird noises, no misfires at cold or warm idle. Car runs great, just knocks and will occasionally generate one or two knock warnings on BtSsm.

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Has to be the O2 or MAF, since those numbers point to a HUGE leak, which there is none. Fingers crossed that you can get this fixed. I have a Bosch O2 still that I never installed. Hopefully sealing my TVG hole I won't need it.
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I'll stop by the dealer for a new OEM panel filter and see how it goes. I know I can get a new MAF cheaper online and a new front O2 sensor.

If I can spend maybe 500 and be able to keep the car long term then that's good for me. I'm just about willing to try anything right now besides a new shortblock.

Yep, no oil burn, no weird noises, no misfires at cold or warm idle. Car runs great, just knocks and will occasionally generate one or two knock warnings on BtSsm.

 

Maybe it's just because it hasn't happened to me yet, but I think you're in plenty good shape. I think the whole "OMG MY LGT IS GUNNA BLOW UP #INANSB :eek::eek::eek::eek::spin::spin::spin:" thing is a little blown out of proportion, especially on a forum. For every one of those here that are having problems, imagine how many other LGTs are running fine that you don't know about because their owners are out driving their awesome ride instead of worrying about it :lol:

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The dealer has the air filter, but not the MAF and I know I can get it cheaper online. Same for the forward O2 sensor. I just need the part numbers.

Here's hoping that this is what my car needs. Well, this and a new downpipe and a tune. I'll show it a little extra love if this fixes it all.

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The dealer has the air filter, but not the MAF and I know I can get it cheaper online. Same for the forward O2 sensor. I just need the part numbers.

Here's hoping that this is what my car needs. Well, this and a new downpipe and a tune. I'll show it a little extra love if this fixes it all.

 

I ordered a BOSCH 15011 O2 for my 07 from Rock Auto.

 

I tried weather stripping in my airbox, though can't say it worked since I have a leak to fix still....

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I have the new Genuine Subaru Air Filter in the box and I ordered a new Subaru MAF from Subaru Parts For You and a Denso AFR sensor from Amazon. I got some shorts for a cosplay I'm working on at the same time. I got some pretty good prices on the parts and here's the AFR I ordered for anyone interested.

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-9120-Oxygen-Sensor-Ratio/dp/B001F799X6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00]Amazon.com: Denso 234-9120 Oxygen Sensor (Air and Fuel Ratio Sensor): Automotive[/ame]

 

Reviews from fellow LGT owners and Amazon's own system says it fits.

 

I looked at a brand new Forester 2.5 Premium at the dealer and man they really wanted to sell me a car. The rumors are true. Lithia Subaru in Reno, Nevada is willing to take a loss just to keep volume sale numbers high. :lol:

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UPDATE:

 

I replaced the AEM DryFlow panel filter with the OEM one and the stock one fits way more snug. I couldn't make a gasket or a seal for it. It's that tight. New MAF and AFR are on their wayband will be changed out as well.

I'll log and post LVs.

The stock airbox looks in good shape and it seals well. Some warpage along the top, but it locks tight along all edges

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Sounds good. Looking forward to seeing your new LV to see if the oem airbox filter changed the results.
BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT
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My car is doing way better and I have all of you guys to thank. Thank you so much! Thank you! More new parts are coming and it's looking like a nice future.

 

It didn't start on the first shot after work. The starter did it's usual cold stick; it was just too cold outside and I heard a screech of metal on metal twice, but I was parked almost underneath the massive warehouse heater and I can't replicate it on the next warm startups. If it happens in my garage tomorrow morning I will report right after. Probably nothing, but I thought to note it here anyways.

 

Maybe it's piston slap? Is the 4th piston ringland cracking and just not showing signs of a full crack yet? I mean my shop did say 11% loss on that one. I'm trying to find answers on the leakdown loss and what is acceptable and not.

 

Checking oil when warm after 30 minutes revealed a good level, no real issues or weird smells. I'll check it when dead cold in the morning before heading to work.

 

The car still has power and reacts well. I think another reason why the AFR might be going out is because it's partly exposed. I have a Rallitek skidplate and that wire is visible. Also, the rear passenger valve cover has the usual seep.

 

Only four knocks on my way going home. Just four! That's the lowest count I've ever had and the knock warning came on under higher boost levels.

 

So, things are looking good. Here's hoping they just get better from here on out. Cause if they don't I'm totally screwed.

BtSsm_20160324_181651_knock.csv

BtSsm_20160328_172632_knock.csv

BtSsm_LV_20160328_1718.png.f6f1466abeddb27949fa5c1b05a36d15.png

BtSsm_LV_20160328_1729.png.241abd3104e89082d4fc1748a66185a8.png

BtSsm_LV_20160328_1731.png.9d02bc093648bd23c7f0ebe4112ff2d1.png

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I also want to note I have a bit of vibration in the cabin. Ever since the new turbo got installed. I just never thought it was anything, but I'll throw it out there just cause.

 

Also, once this starts showing some bad signs I'll have to get Crosstrek. That's my next choice if I have to get a new car. Not kidding about the screwed part in my previous post.

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Those LVs look a lot better! Still looks like it's running leaner than desirable, but the fuel trims are much better and close enough that I wouldn't be too concerned about them. I bet that panel filter you had was flowing freer than the stock panel, hence the really high fuel trims previously.
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Thank you. I was super excited today in the snowy traffic. Totally cheering on my car on the drive home too cause it only got better and those are the results I posted.

I wish I put the OEM filter in sooner. Then again, I never knew til recently. I really have all of you guys to thank for the info and helping me out so much. My shop never thought about putting in a stock filter. I just hope there isn't any permanent damage done. I want to keep this car for years and years to come.

 

Anyone want a slightly used AEM DryFlow filter? :lol:

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Just started up my LGT and checked the oil. Oil is definitely full and level is topped off. Granted, I haven't done much driving recently, but it is full. Car started up with zero issues and no weird noises. I even have it recorded. Warmed up for 4 minutes and nothing wrong. Things are looking good.
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Iirc the HKS panel filters were also a loose fit in the airbox, I used draft seal on mine then upgraded to a cosworth blue filter which fits fine.

 

I'll be sure to do the twist pin trick on the maf plug pins as well thanks to xt2005bonbons tip ;)

 

Glad to see you're making progress, just keep up the regular LV's now you know what to look for.

LV info here: http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=20196&start=0

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Well, so it does look like that filter was not playing nice with the MAF sensor. Since you do use your btssm app, I suggest the following screen layout I've been using more or less for almost a year.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=213955&d=1438707135

 

As you can see, I am viewing live the fuel trims you check by pulling LVs. By viewing them live, I no longer need to pull LVs anymore. I also view misfires, knock (FKC and FLKC---I don't really care about 'knock count'), injector related parameters, and intake and coolant temps.

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I got a few knock warnings today and all in the afternoon and each is very similar to this one here:

 

KNOCK DETECTED at 2016-03-29 04:43:43 PM

AFR: 13.0

Battery (V): 14.2

Boost (psi): 2.90

Coolant (degF): 185

FKC (deg): -2.11

FLKC (deg): 0.00

Fuel correct (%): 10.1

Fuel learn (%): -1.90

IAM: 1.000

Injector DC (%): 15.7

Injector PW (ms): 7.9

Intake (degF): 51

Knocks: 8

Load (g/rev): 1.22

MAF (g/s): 48.32

MAF (V): 2.76

Misfire cyl 1: 0

Misfire cyl 2: 0

Misfire cyl 3: 0

Misfire cyl 4: 0

O2 rear (V): 0.9

RPM: 2384

Speed (mph): 45.4

TGV left (V): 0.34

TGV right (V): 0.38

Throttle pedal (%): 17.6

Throttle plate (%): 23.9

Timing (deg): 32.0

VVT int L (deg): 10

VVT int R (deg): 10

 

The car runs great otherwise without any weirdness and I have a brand new MAF coming in tomorrow and I'll post results next afternoon. Oil level looks great as well. No bobble in RPMs either. A new AFR just came in today and I might install it.

BtSsm_LV_20160329_1656.png.d8b27cf53d1a7e7a166333baa3c1988a.png

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Again, those knock warnings don't really say much (since we can't see what's going on before/after), and on top of that, it's only -2deg of FBKC at a relatively low RPM/load (2400rpm and 1.2g/rev load). I'd ignore anything that looks like that (and honestly, if that's all you ever really see for FBKC, I'd just ignore FBKC entirely and only pay attention to FLKC and IAM).
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^ this :)

 

I usually just look at the LV occasionally for anything too extreme. Logging can then be used to try and pinpoint when/where/sometimes why it's happening.

 

Sometimes I bring down the "knock snapshot sensitivity" in settings down to around -3 if I'm getting bothered by too many knock indications when I know the LV is ok.

BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT
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