Cup_of_Joe Posted August 26, 2016 Author Share Posted August 26, 2016 If I'm not mistaken you can use the GT/3.6 mid pipe back setup just have to add the hanger for the passenger side muffler which in your case should already be there. Think I'm going to keep it single. Just replace the pipe from the muffler to wherever. Going to take it to an exhaust shop and get some advice. I was curious about back pressure? 2.5i, maybe they have a single exhaust for a reason? Sent from my SM-N930P using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Picky1 Posted August 26, 2016 Share Posted August 26, 2016 So, anyone else here with a 2.5i and dual muffler exhaust? Mine just fell off.. Sent from my SM-N930P using Tapatalk I have dual exhaust off of a 2010 Legacy GT on mine without any issues or any detectable loss of MPGs. If you are interested I have my stock 2012 2.5i exhaust sitting in my shed. Also, it is my understanding that the midpipe from 3.6 is slightly longer and may require some modification. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxrider28 Posted August 26, 2016 Share Posted August 26, 2016 I would say the cat gives it plenty back pressure so going duels shouldn't affect that. But if you go back stock be sure to grab the bumper cutout too. Picky is right about the 3.6 mid pipe you'd have to get a shop to cut/weld it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted August 29, 2016 Share Posted August 29, 2016 2.5i, maybe they have a single exhaust for a reason I am guessing the single exhaust for the 2.5i is for cost and weight savings. I don't think that it's going to make a measurable difference between a dual and single on a 2.5i. The ej253 in the 2006-2009 was rated for 170hp just like the 2010-2012 ej253 (2.5i engine). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted August 29, 2016 Share Posted August 29, 2016 I noticed the flange to my muffler on my 2012 looks pretty crusty, but rest of the exhaust look to be in good condition. I suspect that will be the first part to fail and it should be easy for a custom exhaust shop to repair if the rest of the pipes are in good condition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cup_of_Joe Posted August 30, 2016 Author Share Posted August 30, 2016 Yeah, I think mine was just a bad weld job by whatever shop did it. I'm going to go to my own shop that I trust, and ask what I should do/best / cheaper/ solution. I believe options are get an exhaust/Y pipe off a gt, or grab a single used exhaust from a 2.5i and grab the cut out. Sent from my SM-N930P using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Picky1 Posted August 30, 2016 Share Posted August 30, 2016 I will cut you a deal on my 2.5i OEM single exhaust if that is the direction you are going in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cup_of_Joe Posted August 30, 2016 Author Share Posted August 30, 2016 I will cut you a deal on my 2.5i OEM single exhaust if that is the direction you are going in. Appreciate it, I shall let you know! Sent from my SM-N930P using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cup_of_Joe Posted September 17, 2016 Author Share Posted September 17, 2016 Dash mats. Who's got one? What's recommended? The glare is so annoying Sent from my SM-N930P using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 I just used a black towel to solve that problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 Dash mats. Who's got one? What's recommended? The glare is so annoying Sent from my SM-N930P using Tapatalk Are you using a high gloss products on your dash like armor all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 I use a damp cloth to clean it, and that is all...and it is definitely not shiny at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cup_of_Joe Posted September 18, 2016 Author Share Posted September 18, 2016 Sun def reflects on it onto the windshield. Certain days. Not always. I don't use armorall Sent from my SM-N930P using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cup_of_Joe Posted January 18, 2017 Author Share Posted January 18, 2017 I'm currently in school to be an automotive tech, and this module we are on manual trans and diffs. My question is now, has anyone swapped out their 4.1 diffs for a more aggressive 4.44 diff? Is that possible? Trying to get more torque to the wheels, make the car a little more fun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBPeik Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 Seeing as how you would need both front and rear diffs or do some funky work like some of the sti's with a dual final drive setup, I would think not. Easier to just swap out transmissions and diffs. Not that that is an easy thing, but seems the only option. My someday I will be done with it thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cup_of_Joe Posted January 18, 2017 Author Share Posted January 18, 2017 I would assume there isn't a ring and pinion gear made for our diff case with a higher ratio, correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBPeik Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 Any r160 ring and pinion will fit. Some of the forester turbos came with 4.44 in usdm. I am sure other models too, but you still have the front diff problem. My someday I will be done with it thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cup_of_Joe Posted January 18, 2017 Author Share Posted January 18, 2017 Ah true.. oh well, thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 The 5th Gen 2013/14 6MT 2.5i had a 4.44:1 ratio as well as the 2010-2014 6MT Outbacks. In theory, you could buy a used 6MT/4.44 rear, swap, and sell your original 6MT/4.11 rear diff and essentially for the cost of labor. The more iikely scenario is that you will pay junkyard prices for those parts and have a hard time selling them yourself as they are not a common part that fails at this point in time. You might be able to find 5th Gen LGT owner that may want the transmission (it has different 5th and 6th ratio). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cup_of_Joe Posted January 20, 2017 Author Share Posted January 20, 2017 The 5th Gen 2013/14 6MT 2.5i had a 4.44:1 ratio as well as the 2010-2014 6MT Outbacks. In theory, you could buy a used 6MT/4.44 rear, swap, and sell your original 6MT/4.11 rear diff and essentially for the cost of labor. The more iikely scenario is that you will pay junkyard prices for those parts and have a hard time selling them yourself as they are not a common part that fails at this point in time. You might be able to find 5th Gen LGT owner that may want the transmission (it has different 5th and 6th ratio). Of course I get the crappy year 5th gen.. Lol.. If I drove a 13/14 6mt, would I feel an incredible different ? Worth the trouble? Sent from my LG-ls990 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripstik Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 Of course I get the crappy year 5th gen.. Lol.. If I drove a 13/14 6mt, would I feel an incredible different ? Worth the trouble? Sent from my LG-ls990 using Tapatalk The bigger difference would likely be the stiffer springs and sway bars making the car feel much more planted. I had one as a loaner and i had to upgrade at least my RSB afterwards because it just felt soooo much better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 Of course I get the crappy year 5th gen.. Lol.. If I drove a 13/14 6mt, would I feel an incredible different ? Worth the trouble? Honestly it probably would feel quicker. My car feels quicker with the shorter height summer tires which are essentially affecting the gearing (the tires have the effect of going from 4.1:1 to 4.17:1). My car has acceptable acceleration in 1st and 2nd gear. No amount gearing is going to fix the highway acceleration with the higher driveline losses of awd and 170hp. IMO it probably isn't worth it. I would put my effort toward getting a 5th Gen GT, if you looking for more performance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cup_of_Joe Posted March 10, 2017 Author Share Posted March 10, 2017 Okay, looking for more advice guys! My throwout bearing and input shaft bearing are making swirling noises, have been for a while now. Should I pull the trans and replace the bearings myself? I'm attending an automotive school at the moment, so I'm not completely new to any of this. Or someone gave me the idea to buy a used junker trans, overhaul it, and just swap it. Now with my former posts, if I go this route, should I grab a trans from a 2012-13? For the higher ratio? More questions to come depending on what responses I get! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 It is much more likely that it is just the throw out bearing. It also seems that its easier to pull the engine than pull the transmission to do clutch work because the 'engine mounts' are actually on the transmission. If you pulled the transmission you have to support the engine and then realign the engine to the transmission when re-installing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cup_of_Joe Posted March 10, 2017 Author Share Posted March 10, 2017 It is much more likely that it is just the throw out bearing. It also seems that its easier to pull the engine than pull the transmission to do clutch work because the 'engine mounts' are actually on the transmission. If you pulled the transmission you have to support the engine and then realign the engine to the transmission when re-installing it. Would the throw out bearing be making noise when the clutch is released and car in nuetral? I assumed it was the input shaft bearing. I thought TOB was when the clutch was pressed in, which also has a noise. Clutch does need to get done, and I know tob can be done at the same time, but I don't want to do all that work and find out I still have the noise in nuetral after, and have to take it all apart again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.