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Last I knew Aisin did not make a kit for the 5th gen. People have been saying good things about the Continental kit. I went with a gates kit but purchased the OEM tensioner and water pump. Hey, I have a gates tensioner I'd sell you for a good price ;-)
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Last I knew Aisin did not make a kit for the 5th gen. People have been saying good things about the Continental kit. I went with a gates kit but purchased the OEM tensioner and water pump. Hey, I have a gates tensioner I'd sell you for a good price ;-)

I may just do that actually, buy a kit and grab oem tensioner and water pump. Thanks though!

 

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Okay, another question for the experienced. Replacing the camshaft seals, break the pulley loose with the timing belt still on. How do I keep the cams from moving when I remove the pulley and replace the seals? Same with the crankshaft.

 

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Make absolute certain the crank remains in its nuetral (timing marks lined up position). The cams don't exactly spin freely as the springs are still installed so they will press the tappets against the cam lobes and push the cam to a "neutral position" but not an in time position.

 

If a piston is up when you move the cams it could bend a valve.

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So when I took the timing belt off, I had the wrong marks lined up. I had the arrow on the crank lined up, instead of the line, the arrow is suppose to point right. I replaced everything I needed. Should I line it up the right way before putting the belt back on? And if so how? Or can I put the belt back on with how I had the marks originally lined up (wrong)? Did I break it? :spin:
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I hope nothing rotated while it was beltless. If you are certain nothing rotated, I would put the old belt on, rotate everything around to line up the crank mark correctly, take the old belt off, do minor adjustments of the cam marks if necessary to line them up, then put the new belt on. DO NOT rotate the crank or the cams without rotating it all at the same time.
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I believe it released some tension in one of the cams, may have moved a few teeth. I got everything back together and lined the belt lines up, and put the cams back where they were when I took the belt off. About to rotate it a few times, make sure all the marks line up and I don't feel or hear anything wrong. Will report back!

 

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Okay, got it all back together and it's running. Learning how to be a car for the next 20 mins. Everything seems normal. Would I know if something was wrong? Would it be super obvious?

 

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Yes it would be obvious and bending a valve when the engine is being turned by hand would be obvious as well. Always line up the timing mark on the crank before removing the belt that ensures none of the pistons are up.
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As long as you hand turn stuff without using excessive force there's no risk of inflicting damage if you stop as soon as something feels to be in the way.

 

The most annoying part at least on a twin cam engine is that (if I remember correctly) the intake cam on the driver side is under spring tension and want to jump out of position.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I still have the oil leak, it's just not as bad as it was now. Still coming from the bottom of the timing belt cover. I'm assuming I didn't seal the oil pump well? I doubt it's any of the three new seals I out in. If my oil pump was bad, rare I know, would it leak? Going to find time tomorrow to tear it down again and see if I can pin point it. Any ideas/suggestions?

 

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And three more thoughts, as I am searching the net. I didn't let the gasket maker sit for a while before I test drove it.

I also read that there are three screws that get sealant on them, did not do that -_-

And lastly, those hex plugs that let you access the Pistons I believe. Someone mentioned those can leak as well.

I feel like such an amatuer.

 

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Did you pull the oil pump? If not then it should be fine I imagine.

 

Black rtv should be OK. Grey would be better, but I doubt you would have a leak this fast. Those seals could leak, even if they were new. I am sure once you tear it down you will find the problem pretty quick.

 

Good luck

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Took it all apart again. Can't seem to find where the oil is leaking from. I found oil on top of the timing belt guide bolt holes. (Pic). There was also some oil behind the pulley to the left of that. Also behind the bottom right sprocket. And all along the bottom of the timing belt cover.

The dealer isn't open today, happy fourth btw! Have to wait until tomorrow to pick up the o-ring and more coolant. Then I will seal it up with Ultra gray this time. And hit the bolts with sealant just in case. And just pray it doesn't leak anymore!

 

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Oil leak fixed. Just resealed the oil pump and hit the bolts with sealant.

 

But I am no longer going to be keeping the car unfortunately. I'll be getting into something smaller, double the gas mileage, etc. As much as I love my subie, I have to let it go.

 

Will have parts for sale including, new in box front konis, new in box eibach pro kit springs, used Provas, used rubber winter floor mats, used avo throttle controller.

 

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Oil leak fixed. Just resealed the oil pump and hit the bolts with sealant.

 

But I am no longer going to be keeping the car unfortunately. I'll be getting into something smaller, double the gas mileage, etc. As much as I love my subie, I have to let it go.

 

Will have parts for sale including, new in box front konis, new in box eibach pro kit springs, used Provas, used rubber winter floor mats, used avo throttle controller.

 

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That sucks that you've gotta part with the car after putting so much work into it. What's your new ride gonna be?

 

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What about a Hyundai Veloster? It's hatchy....and turboy lol

 

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MPG lol. I'll eventually get me an older subie to track with.

 

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