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6th Gen Legacy Wheel Thread


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No reason other than cost and (possibly) ride comfort.

 

Agree that 20's do look good.

 

If the STI is coming with a 19" option I'd be all over that. Personally I prefer the OEM+ look.

 

2018 STI will indeed have 19s, and they look good.:wub:

 

http://www.media.subaru.com/pressrelease/1067/1/subaru-debuts-2018-wrx-wrx-sti-performance-comfort

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So I'm looking to get some

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170102/76ddcbfb72796c29789f944431ab2c06.png

 

This person is on IG and told me his are 20" and fenders are rolled.

 

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anyine know what suspension is he on? I tried asking him on Instagram but I think the language barrier is an issue.
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Weight, tire cost, and clearance issues if you want to lower your car a fair bit.

 

 

 

Tire cost I understand but I found weight to be similar and the circumference to be within .75%. I may do the moderate 1 inch lowering on the 20's in the spring.

 

 

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I'm saving up for a set of 20" Vossen wheels. 19's are too small for me, 19 tires are sometimes pricier than 20's due to the odd / less common size.

 

These are the wheels I've decided on..

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170108/55cd59779912bbbef6fac4c0509e561b.jpg

 

Despite being 20's opposed to 18's, they're 6 pounds lighter per wheel than the factories.

 

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

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Tire cost I understand but I found weight to be similar and the circumference to be within .75%.

 

How similar were the weights you found? Eg, for my Prodrive GC-010E, the 18-inch is 8.2kg whereas the 17-inch is about 7.6kg (iirc).

 

But even if you compare 18-inch and 20-inch wheels of the exact same weight and similar design, the 20-inch would have more rotational inertia because more of its mass would be located further away from the centre of the wheel, and would therefore require more energy to move, stop and turn.

 

Then again, we're not racers looking to shave off the last gram, and I'm not going to pretend that looks don't matter. Of course 20s will look better.

 

I may do the moderate 1 inch lowering on the 20's in the spring.

 

Can't wait to see the results. Don't forget to share pics, as well as your findings on clearance and ride quality.

@redvenetian on Instagram
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How similar were the weights you found? Eg, for my Prodrive GC-010E, the 18-inch is 8.2kg whereas the 17-inch is about 7.6kg (iirc).

 

 

 

But even if you compare 18-inch and 20-inch wheels of the exact same weight and similar design, the 20-inch would have more rotational inertia because more of its mass would be located further away from the centre of the wheel, and would therefore require more energy to move, stop and turn.

 

 

 

Then again, we're not racers looking to shave off the last gram, and I'm not going to pretend that looks don't matter. Of course 20s will look better.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Can't wait to see the results. Don't forget to share pics, as well as your findings on clearance and ride quality.

 

 

Yeah I'm just a point A to point B / small road trip guy. Also the stock 17" wheel without tire is 23lbs, the 18" one is ~26lbs. Did you have the stock steel wheels on your car to get that weight?

 

Also when you speak on inertia remember the construction of the rim. Your rims are forged which are some of the lightest in weight as far as construction. I was looking at some 19" Enkei or O.Z.'s. If I went went 20" then I would go with Rays, Miro on Niche depending on best bang for my buck.

 

 

 

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Yeah I'm just a point A to point B / small road trip guy.

 

I hear ya. So am I, in reality, but I'm a bit delusional.

 

Also the stock 17" wheel without tire is 23lbs, the 18" one is ~26lbs. Did you have the stock steel wheels on your car to get that weight?

 

Not sure what you mean. My stock wheels were the 18-inch "Limited" cast aluminum alloys. Yup, about 26lbs (24.9lbs on my scale, fwiw).

 

Also when you speak on inertia remember the construction of the rim. Your rims are forged which are some of the lightest in weight as far as construction. I was looking at some 19" Enkei or O.Z.'s. If I went went 20" then I would go with Rays, Miro on Niche depending on best bang for my buck.

 

I almost got one of the Niche 19" models. I love how Niche allows you to customise stuff like offset.

@redvenetian on Instagram
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I hear ya. So am I, in reality, but I'm a bit delusional.

 

 

 

Not sure what you mean. My stock wheels were the 18-inch "Limited" cast aluminum alloys. Yup, about 26lbs (24.9lbs on my scale, fwiw).

 

 

 

I almost got one of the Niche 19" models. I love how Niche allows you to customise stuff like offset.

 

Yeah those Niche wheels are pretty nice.

 

http://i.imgur.com/cY5sHFz.jpg

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I've been thinking about plasti dipping my wheels white to go with my premium lapis blue pearl paint...good or bad idea?

 

 

 

I would say it's a personal opinion. Go with what you like best. Plastic dipping won't do any harm

 

 

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I've been thinking about plasti dipping my wheels white to go with my premium lapis blue pearl paint...good or bad idea?

 

Won't know til you try it:cool: I say go for it, do one or both on a side to get a feel for it and if you like it do the others. I highly recommend using plastidip glossifier over the white as it gives a smoother surface and helps dirt come off easier.

 

My car is Twilight Blue and these are WRX wheels but this is what white plastidip looks like. Just FYI tho it's a dirt magnet:lol:

 

http://i.imgur.com/y5n02qU.jpg

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My car is Twilight Blue and these are WRX wheels but this is what white plastidip looks like. Just FYI tho it's a dirt magnet:lol:

 

That's why I'd paint them, put gloss on and coat them with sealant to make them easy to keep clean. White wheels look great when they're clean.

 

Oh and get yourself some ceramic brake pads would help too as they make almost no dust.

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That's why I'd paint them, put gloss on and coat them with sealant to make them easy to keep clean. White wheels look great when they're clean.

 

Oh and get yourself some ceramic brake pads would help too as they make almost no dust.

 

I may someday, easy cleaning sure is appealing:lol:

 

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll definitely look at ceramic when the time comes.

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Thanks for the suggestions! What is the difference between Grand Touring A/S and Ultra High Performance A/S? I've been trying to google it but I get mixed answers. Is grand touring for general all season, go anywhere on one set of tires...where high performance all season has more traction and control for say speed and cornering while giving all season rating?

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Thanks for the suggestions! What is the difference between Grand Touring A/S and Ultra High Performance A/S? I've been trying to google it but I get mixed answers. Is grand touring for general all season, go anywhere on one set of tires...where high performance all season has more traction and control for say speed and cornering while giving all season rating?

 

Generally the performance/sports tire will have a softer/grippier compound that will also wear out faster.

 

That's a generalization as I have got decent mileage from Goodyear Eagle F1A2's which are a performance tire.

Edited by tigger73
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Thanks for the suggestions! What is the difference between Grand Touring A/S and Ultra High Performance A/S? I've been trying to google it but I get mixed answers. Is grand touring for general all season, go anywhere on one set of tires...where high performance all season has more traction and control for say speed and cornering while giving all season rating?

 

Like tigger said treadwear is typically the main difference. Higher performance categories will typically get you better grip for high-speed cornering at the expense of wearing faster. If you go maximum attack on backroad twisties then you probably would be better off with something UHP. Whereas if you aren't pushing to the limit on every corner chances are you'd appreciate the longer life of GT, especially the Pirelli P7's high treadwear.

 

Either way your car will handle better than stock and probably be quieter too.

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Generally the performance/sports tire will have a softer/grippier compound that will also wear out faster.

 

That's a generalization as I have got decent mileage from Goodyear Eagle F1A2's which are a performance tire.

 

All it takes to make a tire last a while is not abusing the hell out of them, keeping them at the correct pressure, having a good alignment, and rotating them frequently. The RE-11's I have on my toy car have none of that, but have lasted through 1 autocross season and 5k miles, and will need to be replaced before the start of next season. But, I'm okay with that. I was actually surprised at how long they lasted, given that they have a UTQC of 200.

 

I just replaced my stock tires with General Altimax RT43. Only downside (if it's even one???) is that I had to get a .4" taller tire (235/50-18). I went with those because LITERALLY ANYTHING is better than the stock tires, and I didn't want to chose a tire that was unidirectional, as well as one that was less than 400 UTQC.

 

But, if I didn't have a dedicated toy car, I would have bought another set of wheels and tires so I could have better grip. I can't express how little I liked the stock tires.

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Like tigger said treadwear is typically the main difference. Higher performance categories will typically get you better grip for high-speed cornering at the expense of wearing faster. If you go maximum attack on backroad twisties then you probably would be better off with something UHP. Whereas if you aren't pushing to the limit on every corner chances are you'd appreciate the longer life of GT, especially the Pirelli P7's high treadwear.

 

Either way your car will handle better than stock and probably be quieter too.

 

High performance tires are definitely noisier. Grand Touring all seasons are made to be the best compromise of everything that an average driver values.

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High performance tires are definitely noisier.

 

Typically but not always, there's quiet high performance tires and loud touring tires. Tread pattern definitely makes a difference. That and how much time they spend tuning the noise characteristics.

 

I've had really good luck with the stock GY LS2. I mean at 37k but will probably replace them next season

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

 

For the average driver there's nothing wrong with them at all, but those of us that push our cars hard around corners find them lacking. Everybody has a different driving style and therefore different needs in the tire department.

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