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PeterJMC's 2008 Spec B


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This arrived today...

 

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Home Depot squashed my dreams of using this tomorrow though. They only cut key blanks that were purchased from them :(

 

I also realized that I need the thinner version of the keyfob, not the ones I currently have. I ordered a pair of used ones off ebay for $15 each and free shipping.

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@ 72,490 I did a few quick things this morning before heading to work. Took less than 30 minutes :)

  • Replaced the battery with an Optima Yellow Top, Part # 8040-218
  • Removed hood prop bracket
  • Removed the hood prop

 

Replaced the battery with an Optima Yellow Top

The battery on the car was noticeably dying. So I decided to replace it before I got stranded somewhere. Ordered it off Amazon for a pretty good price, a lot cheaper than some of the local shops were willing to sell it for. I chose the yellow top for a aftermarket headunit, sound system, and a few other electronics in the near future.

 

I need to pick up shorter battery tie down posts and I think I want to get a fancy battery tie down
:D

 

Removed Hood Prop Bracket and Hood Prop

I removed the hood prop and the hood prop bracket for a cleaner look for the GrimmSpeed radiator shroud. I have Redline QuickLIFT Plus hood struts ordered and they should arrive for this weekend.
:D

 

I'll post pics of the new engine bay once I get the hood prop struts installed.

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This arrived today...

 

<snip>

 

Home Depot squashed my dreams of using this tomorrow though. They only cut key blanks that were purchased from them :(

 

I also realized that I need the thinner version of the keyfob, not the ones I currently have. I ordered a pair of used ones off ebay for $15 each and free shipping.

 

 

Which key is that? I only have 1 key with my car, and if those come with immobilizer chips, I'd totally buy a few and then shell out the absurd price the dealer charges to link them all with my car.

 

BTW, Home Depot/Lowes/etc., don't generally cut anything but what they sell because they don't have trained locksmiths, or a proper key-cutting machine. They have the cheap junk automated machines that can only cut whatever blanks they have. Try a local hardware store (Ace, TrueValue, etc.) or an actual locksmith. Most of the local places I've been do that for free (for instance, when I needed to duplicate the key blank I bought for my motorcycle).

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Yeah, let me know how that key goes. I saw the thread but I wasn't too serious at cutting my key until I got the car running again. On my current car I won't ever flip the key until I'm safely inside the car. This new car paint scratches if you look at it wrong.

 

 

Sent from my iFail using Tapatalk App

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  • 2 weeks later...

@ 72,688 miles I spent two half days working on the car.

  • Removed Bilstein shocks, Cobb springs, and Saggy Butt spacers in the rear.
  • Installed RaceComp Engineering Tarmac 1 coilovers

 

I replaced the strut assemblies that came with the car (Cobb springs on Bilsteins with saggy butt spacers in the rear) with RaceComp Engineering Tarmac 1 coilovers. I kept the ride height the same. I'll be making tweaks in the next few weeks as the suspension settles and I'll take it in for an alignment.

 

Something nasty happened to the passenger front strut. I haven't taken the time to tear it down yet to figure out exactly what happened to it. As I was unmounting the assembly from the front knuckle, the two bolts that mount the strut to the knuckle were unusually difficult to pull out. I've removed the struts on these cars a dozen times. Something was causing the bolts to bind. I knew it was very unusual, but I didn't pay much attention to it. As soon as I pulled the last bolt out, BANG! The strut fully extended (more than normal). It was resting on the axle and was now fully extended into the strut tower.

 

There was no way for me to just slide this out of the wheel well because it was placing an ungodly amount of pressure against the axle. There wasn't enough space for me to squeeze a jack in there to compress that assembly. I tossed around an idea of putting a spring compressor in there to relieve enough pressure so I could pull it out, but my spring compressor wouldn't work-- not enough space. An idea struck, use some tie down straps! By compressing the springs, I was able to relieve enough pressure in the assembly to compress it with my hands and pull it out of the wheel well.

 

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I have no idea what failed on that strut yet. I started to do some work to take it apart to investigate, but gave up on that work so I could finish up the coilover install. I'll pull it apart in the next few weeks.

 

Those CT winters really do a number to the underside. They must use lots and lots of salt up there :lol:

 

New rear and old rear

20151011_153908.jpg

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I mounted up my Forgestar F14s to see how they would look on the LGT. I had these on my Prius for 2 years. I'm not sure how I feel about them. The tire is flat because the wheel that I pulled out had a bend on the inside lip. I'm sure the wheel profile would look nicer with a wider tire and if it was actually inflated.

 

The Forgestar F14s are 18x8.5, +48, with the color textured gunmetal. The tires are Conti DWS in 225/40/18.

 

These BARELY clear Brembos. The wheel rotates fully, but sliiightly rubs the caliper. This wheel, as configured, will definitely clear with a .5mm-1mm wheel spacer or if you want, shave 1mm of material from the Brembos. If you see the pics (last one I think) it's just the very inside edge that needs shaving. An idea if you plan on getting your calipers painted or powdercoated anyway :D

 

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Good thinking with those tie-down straps. What kind of funky pothole did you hit, CT??

 

How are you loving the Tarmacs, Petey?!

 

Thanks! I owe all that improvising to my dad and MacGuyver :lol:

 

I have no idea what busted the passengers side strut. The Bilsteins were noticeably worn. 72k on them, I think it was just their time to go. There were a couple of road dips on the way back to MD from CT and a couple others over the past few weeks that have caused the car to bottom out.

 

I love the Tarmacs. I need to do some adjustments to the ride height. I think the rear is a little lower than the front... or maybe I should just drop the front :)

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These arrived today! Thanks KNS Brakes! All I need are some rear stainless steel braided lines and some brake fluid :)

 

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/19/900713b91d4b3c2b4ca1fb3876c3a988.jpg

 

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

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@ 72,782 miles I took the car back to Andrewtech Automotive to get a few more things done

  • 3M Crystalline Tint Installed
  • Redline Tuning QuickLIFT Plus Hood Struts Installed
  • Picked up Some Whiteline KCA313s

 

3M Crystaline Tint Installed

When I bought the car, it had 20% tint all around and that tint had to be pulled off the vehicle to pass MD state inspection. Andrewtech took the car for me to Cutting Edge Tint in Gaithersburg, MD to have the tint pulled off and then they brought it to the MD state inspection station for me. Pretty good service! So now a month later, it's time to get tint put back on.

 

Cutting Edge Tint did the install of 3M Crystaline with 40CR on all windows and 70CR on the front windshield. The customer service and the quality of the install is top notch. I would definitely go back myself and recommend that others go there.

 

The tint does its job just like any other tint would do. It's a great feeling being able to drive down the road and not feel intense heat on your side from the sun shining through the window.

 

Redline Tuning QuickLIFT Plus Hood Struts Installed

I had Andrewtech Automotive do this install because... I'm just too chicken to drill holes into my car
:lol:
These definitely give the engine bay a clean look. No hood prop! I will have to snap new pics of the engine bay when I have a few minutes and it's daylight outside.

Picked Up Some Whiteline KCA313

So after installing the Tarmacs, and that I now have to replace the passenger front axle due to a cracked/torn boot, I thought I should install these before I take it in to get an alignment done. Maybe I'll get to installing these over the weekend. Andrewtech knocked it out of the park by price matching with an OTD price
:D

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you did 70 on the front windshield? seems a bit much, thought they typically did like 98 or something up that high for windshields.

 

unbelievable that you can't have 20 on the side windows but you can put 70 on the friggin windshield? MD makes no sense!

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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you did 70 on the front windshield? seems a bit much, thought they typically did like 98 or something up that high for windshields.

 

unbelievable that you can't have 20 on the side windows but you can put 70 on the friggin windshield? MD makes no sense!

 

I know here in MA, I could probably get away with 70 on the front windshield (though even the 90 or ANY film at all is illegal here), because it really doesn't look much darker at all, unless you're comparing side-by-side. And it's pretty impossible to get a hand-held tint meter on your windshield (which is what most/all of the gas stations that do inspection around here use).

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you did 70 on the front windshield? seems a bit much, thought they typically did like 98 or something up that high for windshields.

 

unbelievable that you can't have 20 on the side windows but you can put 70 on the friggin windshield? MD makes no sense!

 

You can't put anything more than a sun strip of tint on the front windshield in MD. No more than 7" if I recall correctly.

 

70 doesn't look like it's tinted at all.

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It's funny because I know many people in Maryland with 2 sheets of 5% and only 2 are MD cops. Never seen tinted windshields until D.C. and Maryland. Commonpoor of Virginia was anal about tint. FairF**ked county was the worse.
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Wow, 2 sheets of 5%?!?!

 

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

 

Dude it was uber dark! Spotlight take downs and high beams of 2 cruisers double abreast low risk you couldn't see movement in the car.

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