DA_MAXX Posted September 26, 2015 Share Posted September 26, 2015 Okay, couldn't wait and completed the installation today. Didn't take more than 35 minutes. Here's the pictures of the front and rear, before and after, on the driver's side. Same for the other side. I did use double back tape to mount the boxes and taped the connections. So let me clarify a bit. I was "unimpressed" with what was needed to mounting and the rubber grommet. The grommet holds the LED fine and makes good solid fit into the light housing. The original twist and turn connector did the same thing, with water protection, only easier. Btw..they could have given a bit more length on the wires from the resistor box to the LED. But it was enought to fit for both front and rear. So my other grip, the need for the boxes. Yeah maybe I do have high expectations, but I know they can build what's needed into one assembly. I comes down to a matter of cost $$. The iJDMs are the most expensive ones out there for Turns. Now that I have them installed, I am impressed with the light output. Very much brighter than the stock halys. Also a criper signal, no fading. So as others who are using these, I'm satisfied. Going to move on and look for other LEDs to upgrade. Hi, Lo beams next. Just need more $$$. Securityguy, I didn't mean to suggest there was something wrong with a plastic housing. Actually, that more assuring. So they don't think their assy will get hot. I am confused when they say "mount it to metal" and suggest using double back tape. There's no thermal transfer there, no matter what the tape manufacture states. The LEDs that use a metal, 50W resistors, wow, original bulbs were only using 21W. Anyway, I ran these for 15 minutes straight and no noticeable heat. So I'm with all the others that say, The iJDM are it ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AirBorne1Cav Posted September 26, 2015 Share Posted September 26, 2015 Thanks for checking the heat man, I'm swapping out my LED's and resistors sooner rather than later. My resistors get BRUTALLY hot, and I'm actually worried about them touching something and catching fire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
im2c0ol Posted September 26, 2015 Share Posted September 26, 2015 I got VLEDS they just a bit brighter, doesn't worth all the troubles so my $100 VLEDS stays in my storage box. 16' Legacy Mods: 55w HID + XB35 5500k, LEDS upgrades, XB Type T Fog, 20mm SB. Custom Footwell Illiminate Kit; http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/15-legacy-outback-footwell-illumination-kit-237567.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DA_MAXX Posted September 26, 2015 Share Posted September 26, 2015 Airborne1Cav, I don't want to mislead. You can feel a difference in heat after a long period of time. I felt it more on the epoxy side and not the other sides. In order to "tape' it down, I chose the side which was plastic, with the epoxy side facing straight up. That's because the epoxy side is shallow. Although it is warmer, I'm not concerned that something will burn or catch fire. They aren't "BRUTALLY" hot after a long period of time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
securityguy Posted September 26, 2015 Share Posted September 26, 2015 ^^^as DA stated. They may get "warm" but never hot. A well designed product with the correctly spec'd parts should work this way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mehilovich Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 VLED Switchbacks for front, and JDM's for rears were delivered today! Can't wait to get home and install them! Thank you to everyone for the advice, pictures and videos! Special thanks to DA_MAXX for installation pictures! These should really help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mehilovich Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 I'm hoping someone is online and can help! I'm trying to replace my reverse light bulbs with LEDs I ordered at the same time as my LED turns, but I can't seem to figure out how the hell to replace the bulb. This socket won't screw out like the rest, and when I tried to remove the screw I see on the reverse light housing, the entire thing apparently has a weatherproof seal I'm afraid to break if I pull it off. Any insight on how to replace the reverse bulbs? Thank you!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
securityguy Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 I just unplugged the connector and turned the bulb connector and they clicked and came right out:confused: Was very simple and fast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DA_MAXX Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 Mehilovich. The backup LEDs are 921. The turns are 7440A. Different size. There's no screw to remove to get at the backup lights. I just turned the plastic plug which holds the light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew_l_s Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 Just turn the gray socket to the left and it should pop right out: http://i.imgur.com/AdbnenE.jpg?1 Lighting Mods: $10 Footwell Illumination | Tail as Turn | Fog as DRL Diode Dynamics C-Lights | RX350 Bi-Xenon Retrofit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffreak Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 Driver's side is a bit more difficult to turn because of the positioning. Try it out on the passenger's side first to get comfortable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mehilovich Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 Thank you so much, guys! My reverse light sockets were significantly harder to unscrew than any other bulbs I've done so far, so I was terrified to break something. I figured I'd consult the experts while I worked on the rear turn signals! Tonight I got the reverse lights, license plate lights, and rear turns all complete! Honestly not a hard job at all! As for my impression of the iJDM's, I'd first off mention how insanely bright they are! They completely blow the OEM out of the water. I'm confident my turns will be seen even in the brightest sunlight. However, I have to say I'm disappointed with the color (color temperature?) of the output.. It's more of a "peach" than an "Amber". Seriously a pale orange/yellow. Regardless, they're bright as hell, and I'm happy with them! They're by far the best option out there, unless you want to spend $140 on VLEDs for the tears. I didn't. Speaking of VLEDs, my last project is to get my VLEDS V3 Triton Switchbacks working. I plan on messing with that tomorrow. I'm hoping that tapping into the DRL's positive wire (before the resistor) will allow them to be true DLR's (turn off when the low beams are on). If not, I guess I'll be configuring them as parking lights, where they dim when the low beams are on. Wish me luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mehilovich Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 Driver's side is a bit more difficult to turn because of the positioning. Try it out on the passenger's side first to get comfortable. I'm glad I'm not the only one that noticed that. The passenger's side was so much easier than the driver's, and I definitely didn't feel like I was going to break it like I did on the driver's side. I definitely learned the lesson to test the LED bulbs before putting them in the socket tonight. Too many times did I have to take the bulb out and twist it around 180 degrees. Thanks for all the help, guys! You all are the best! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
megaike Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 Read through 8 pages here and still unsure how to get to the rear lights! Do you just pull back the trunk liner to get to the light sockets? I don't want to break anything. Fronts were cake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
im2c0ol Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 I been a light guru for 8yrs, it just doesn't feel right for me putting 50w load resistor on the stock wiring designed for 21-25w bulb. I don't want to take any risk from burning out the car voiding the warranty. So my 50w resistors and VLEDS been sitting there almost 2yrs now... After some research and clarification, 50w 6ohm should come out at about 24w load at 12v. Also seems like Diode dynamic has some good deal on their resistor. I bet it gotta be quality ones. 16' Legacy Mods: 55w HID + XB35 5500k, LEDS upgrades, XB Type T Fog, 20mm SB. Custom Footwell Illiminate Kit; http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/15-legacy-outback-footwell-illumination-kit-237567.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesse23 Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 I have VLEDS V3 Triton switchbacks at the front and amber(non-switchback) at the rear. I love the color and they're really bright - dazzling at night. Wiring is easy but you need to be patient to properly tie all the wires and tape all the connectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inshon1 Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 Been following this thread to see if I want to do my turn signals and decided to order 2 sets of the iJDM's. Front and rear. For those of you interested the have a coupon code for 18% off over $50 so my total came out to $75.42 for the 2 sets. Coupon code: END18. I believe that this might end today since it says "End of the month clearance" on their banner ad. ...and no I am not associated with them just passing the info along for those who are interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1692 Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 Hey everyone, I just wanted to do an update on these. I didn't have any issues with the ones I installed since my install date back in August... until today. My passenger side LED stopped working, and after some troubleshooting I found that the "load resistor" that the iJDMtoy lights came with crapped out. The bulb worked fine when I swapped it with the other side, so was able to narrow it down pretty quickly. It's a bummer that they only have a 90 day warranty on their parts, and I don't feel like shelling out the money for just one replacement. I have had issues with the load resistors in a short time after my initial order of these, and to be honest after seeing multiple issues of these not holding up, I don't think I'll be buying them again. Time to find another brand for the amber LED's to replace these... I know that JDM ASTAR has a very good in line load resistor, but the reviews of their bulbs haven't been too good. Any new suggestions for true amber color LED's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
im2c0ol Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 I would try Diode Dynamic's resistor next if mine goes out. I'm not using iJMDToy though. 16' Legacy Mods: 55w HID + XB35 5500k, LEDS upgrades, XB Type T Fog, 20mm SB. Custom Footwell Illiminate Kit; http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/15-legacy-outback-footwell-illumination-kit-237567.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1692 Posted February 18, 2016 Author Share Posted February 18, 2016 Dumb question, but how did you know it was malfunctioning? Does it hyperflash like a regular bulb would? I have these bulbs, and I've wondered how it would tell me it wasn't working. It wasn't flashing at all. I realized it when I went to unlock my car before heading to work, and I saw the drivers side flash, but not the passenger side. I did some quick switching around with the other side and found that the bulb worked when I switched it to the drivers side, and the bulb from the other side didn't work when I hooked it up. Honestly, I wouldn't have otherwise known until it was dark out and wouldn't have been able to see my turn signal on the cars in front of me. One of the downfalls of having the load resistors in place... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1692 Posted February 21, 2016 Author Share Posted February 21, 2016 Another update... I did a bit of better looking for the load resistor that I thought went out. The TINY little wiring connector had come loose and there was no connection between the wires. A little solder and heat shrink tubing later, it is working again! I had thought when I got this that the wiring was very fragile (maybe 20-22 ga, you can see from the pictures in my very first post on this thread) and was worried that this could cause issues, and it looks like I was right. Thankfully I don't have to spend the money to replace anything at this point, but will be keeping my options open in case they finally do go out on me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DesertRoads Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 Nice work! Much brighter and safer for sure! I'm happy Subaru still uses amber rear turn signals. Many auto manufacturers have gone to red to save money or something. I think in all sorts of weather conditions, amber is brighter and easier to see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Grey Goose Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 I'm going to be ordering some LED front turn signals and the tail-as-turn for the rear. Where on the front does the resistor need to be spliced into? Any pics or wire colors would be appreciated. EDIT: Nevermind. I just went and looked at my car and see there's only two wires running to the turn signals-positive and ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testa422 Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 get the v3 tritons from vleds and call it a day...no other led will match its brightness Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2015 Tungsten Posted October 21, 2017 Share Posted October 21, 2017 I had the C-Light Switchback LED Halos from Diode Dynamics installed. I took out my front signal light bulbs and made the C-Light's as my signals. They hyper flashed so resistors were installed. Work great now. I want to install LED's for my rear signals now. Since I have resistors installed on my front C-Lights, can I just get a LED bulb for the rears, or should I get http://store.ijdmtoy.com/No-Hyper-Flash-7440-LED-Turn-Signal-Light-Bulbs-p/20-001.htm these like everyone else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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