LED's for Turn Signals

[securityguy]

I have had experience with Putco in my past and very unimpressed. Maybe these bulbs are better but once I have a bad experience I stay clear.

[Mehilovich]

I have had experience with Putco in my past and very unimpressed. Maybe these bulbs are better but once I have a bad experience I stay clear.

 

Very good to know! I think I'll stick with everyone's suggestion for the iJDM's, since the results speak for themselves. I'll await a link to the exact ones, just to be safe!

 

Also, do the iJDM's come with an adhesive backing for mounting the load resistors, or should I buy some to hold them in place? I saw that someone suggested mounting the load resistors for the rears above the brake lights, and the fronts below the headlights - is this the best placement for each?

[DA_MAXX]

So my iJDMs are on the way. After reviewing the entire thread all over again. The lights are going to come with 4 resistor assy. I was really trying to keep the look as stock as possible. As discussed earlier, we might only need resistors only on one end (front or rear). And the other could be a regular fitting 7440A LED.

 

JDM Astar has a 1260 lumen set for $29.99. What's the lumen output of the iJDMToy ? Not listed anywhere on the website.

 

The housing in the picts for the iJDM toy looks like plastic. Other products use a metal heatsink resistor. People mention it needs to be attached to metal, fine, but they use double back tape, this has no heat transfer properties. So do you need a lot of air around it? If so, pretty tough in the rear\trunk.

[securityguy]

You'll be fine with the iJDM bulbs...no worries.

[Mehilovich]

So my iJDMs are on the way. After reviewing the entire thread all over again. The lights are going to come with 4 resistor assy. I was really trying to keep the look as stock as possible. As discussed earlier, we might only need resistors only on one end (front or rear). And the other could be a regular fitting 7440A LED.

 

JDM Astar has a 1260 lumen set for $29.99. What's the lumen output of the iJDMToy ? Not listed anywhere on the website.

 

The housing in the picts for the iJDM toy looks like plastic. Other products use a metal heatsink resistor. People mention it needs to be attached to metal, fine, but they use double back tape, this has no heat transfer properties. So do you need a lot of air around it? If so, pretty tough in the rear\trunk.

 

I'm guessing you're talking about these which is interesting.. They do note that you "might" need to add load resistors to prevent hyperflash, but there's no other information on what's included in the package, how to connect them (are they true "plug-n-play"?).. Same with these.

 

You'll be fine with the iJDM bulbs...no worries.

 

I think what DA_MAXX, like myself, is trying to get - is more info on how/where to mount the iJDM's. Could anyone elaborate on this?

 

A link to verify which ones I should be getting would still be greatly appreciated! I'm guessing the ones I linked are the most recommended, but just want to be sure!

[1692]

I think what DA_MAXX, like myself, is trying to get - is more info on how/where to mount the iJDM's. Could anyone elaborate on this?

 

A link to verify which ones I should be getting would still be greatly appreciated! I'm guessing the ones I linked are the most recommended, but just want to be sure!

 

Here is the direct link to the ones that myself and many others have ordered, and what I show in my videos and pictures: http://store.ijdmtoy.com/No-Hyper-Flash-7440-LED-Turn-Signal-Light-Bulbs-p/20-001.htm

 

If I get a chance to today, I will try to get some pictures to show where I mounted the load resistors for these. On the front under the headlights, there is a perfect little mounting area where it will sit directly on the metal. Will be hard to see in the pics, but I'll see what I can get. The rear, it is the metal housing just above the rear lights themselves, and they actually sit quite a ways from the trunk liner so there shouldn't be any issue of the heat dissipation causing issues with anything in there.

[Mehilovich]

Here is the direct link to the ones that myself and many others have ordered, and what I show in my videos and pictures: http://store.ijdmtoy.com/No-Hyper-Flash-7440-LED-Turn-Signal-Light-Bulbs-p/20-001.htm

 

If I get a chance to today, I will try to get some pictures to show where I mounted the load resistors for these. On the front under the headlights, there is a perfect little mounting area where it will sit directly on the metal. Will be hard to see in the pics, but I'll see what I can get. The rear, it is the metal housing just above the rear lights themselves, and they actually sit quite a ways from the trunk liner so there shouldn't be any issue of the heat dissipation causing issues with anything in there.

 

Thank you, 1692! Pictures would be much appreciated, just to make sure we know exactly where it's recommended to place them. I don't know about DA_MAXX, but this will be my first time using LED components in a car. Just want to make sure they're safe and not going to cause a fire, or any other problems! Thank you for the link! I'll order a set or two today (still hoping to find some Switchbacks, but not having much luck).

[Mehilovich]

For anyone who opts for the VLED Switchback kit, and wants their rear turn signals to match (I know, sounds silly to me too, but I'm sure there are people out there like that), or are just looking for another option from the iJDM's that are getting high praise - I found these while on my hunt for a Switchback solution. You'll need to add some load resistors for another $20-24, for a total of ~$84. The load resistors do look slimmer and higher quality than the iJDM's, but it comes at a premium!

 

I think I'll stick with the iJDM's, for that kind of pricing.

[DA_MAXX]

Mehilovich. I've changed the dome, map, vanity, door puddle, license, reverse, and front & rear side marker lights to LEDs. I did go back and buy yellow LEDs for the front and Red for the rear marker lights. All in all LEDs are the way to go. Much more light. These were a simple swap. I would recommend buying a "kit" version. I placed multiple orders on Amazon for JDM Astar LEDs.

 

My concern over the turn signals. My dealer offers free oil changes for life for buying the car there. They always check functions of all lights as part of their service. With the added cabling\resistor box etc. It will be obvious there's been changes made. I don't want grief from that. Why can't they make a "plug-n-play" light with the resistor built in? C'mon really.

 

After the turns, I'll have the DRL (High Beam), Low Beam, and Fog to do. Those are anywhere from $70 to $200 per set. Times 3. Whoa ! My Legacy didn't come with fog lights. I bought the kit and added them later. They came with stock H16 halogen bulbs. It sucked. I replace them with JDM Astar 1200 lumen, fog led replacements. They are brighter and I like the color of white light. However, they don't project far. All of the better LEDs for fog, lo, and high beams are going to have added hardware. Added boxes, wiring, braids, etc.

[rcoaster]

You'll need to add some load resistors for another $20-24, for a total of ~$84. The load resistors do look slimmer and higher quality than the iJDM's, but it comes at a premium!

 

They look a bit bigger than the slimline resistors from iJDM Toy. I also found this very informative page about using load resistors. There were some discussion here about using a single load resistor per side, and this page covers several situations where you are using led bulbs for your turn signals.

 

It says that if you are to use 1 resistor for 2 bulbs, you have to use a 3 ohm load resistor, not the 6 ohm as some have stated.

[Mehilovich]

Mehilovich. I've changed the dome, map, vanity, door puddle, license, reverse, and front & rear side marker lights to LEDs. I did go back and buy yellow LEDs for the front and Red for the rear marker lights. All in all LEDs are the way to go. Much more light. These were a simple swap. I would recommend buying a "kit" version. I placed multiple orders on Amazon for JDM Astar LEDs.

 

My concern over the turn signals. My dealer offers free oil changes for life for buying the car there. They always check functions of all lights as part of their service. With the added cabling\resistor box etc. It will be obvious there's been changes made. I don't want grief from that. Why can't they make a "plug-n-play" light with the resistor built in? C'mon really.

 

After the turns, I'll have the DRL (High Beam), Low Beam, and Fog to do. Those are anywhere from $70 to $200 per set. Times 3. Whoa ! My Legacy didn't come with fog lights. I bought the kit and added them later. They came with stock H16 halogen bulbs. It sucked. I replace them with JDM Astar 1200 lumen, fog led replacements. They are brighter and I like the color of white light. However, they don't project far. All of the better LEDs for fog, lo, and high beams are going to have added hardware. Added boxes, wiring, braids, etc.

 

@DA_MAXX - That's awesome you've knocked out a large chunk of the LED conversions. My eyes are very sensitive to light, so I think I'll stick with the Halogen interior lights, at least until they burn out. I think I'll focus on exterior for now.

 

After reading through dozens of forums, discussing with many of the good folks here (special thanks to @icen and @XenonDepot), I've decided to go with a XenonDepot 4300K Philips bulb HID kit for my low-beams. I ordered those yesterday, along with Philips X-treme Ultinon LED Fog Lights, Philips X-treme Vision LED Reverse Lights and 2x Philips LED License Plate bulbs, and Puddle Lights. As I'm sure you know, Philips receives high praise for their LED lighting, so I went with those from XD since I was already ordering the HID kit. The LED Fogs are quite expensive, but are the only LED fogs I've seen that have received high praise for doing exactly what a fog should do -- intense foreground and side lighting, with a sharp cutoff to prevent glare for oncoming drivers. I'll be installing all of these the first few nights I have the car -- there will be plenty of pictures and reviews to come!

 

I do still need to figure out what I want to do about my DRL's. Personally I think it would look pretty awesome if I could find some good Switchback LEDs that were plug-n-play (or at least don't require me to splice factory wiring) and then disable the factory DRLs and maybe use SubiSpeed's C-light wiring harness to have the C-lights as additional DRLs. Especially since I plan on sticking with Halogen High-Beams, as discussed in other threads (I need great brights for the country roads I constantly drive). I'm leaning toward some Philips WhiteVision to match the 4300K color of my low-beams, while also producing great light output. Thoughts?

 

As far as the turn signals, I too wish that I could find some that were just plug-n-play, but since we have the 7440A socket, which is a "single connector" socket, versus a 7443 "double connector" socket, we can't easily do things like switchbacks without having load resistors and extra wiring. From what everyone is recommending, I think I'm going to order two sets of the iJDMs for now, and think about Switchbacks later on, once VLED doesn't have a 4-week backorder on their Triton Switchback kit.

 

My dealership, like yours, offers free oil changes for life, but I don't see the maintenance guys having a fit if I were to put a few lighting kits in there... If they do, I can take them out, but my bet is that they won't even notice them as long as I route the wires well and do a good job at "hiding" the load resistors. They'd probably just do an external check to make sure they're working or not. As many have stated - we should have nothing to worry about as far as voiding any warranty just because we switched out lights. I might swap out my LEDs to factory lights before taking it in for electrical service, if I ever have the misfortune of an electrical issue.

 

They look a bit bigger than the slimline resistors from iJDM Toy. I also found this very informative page about using load resistors. There were some discussion here about using a single load resistor per side, and this page covers several situations where you are using led bulbs for your turn signals.

 

It says that if you are to use 1 resistor for 2 bulbs, you have to use a 3 ohm load resistor, not the 6 ohm as some have stated.

 

To me they looked a tad slimmer, and are made of aluminum versus what appears to be a plastic box for the iJDM's. Sorry if I'm mistaken! I saw that Load Resistor VLED guide as well, but I would think it would be harder to wire two lights to the same resistor (in terms of hiding the load resistor and wiring), versus having two separate load resistors.

[securityguy]

DA, your dealer won't give a rats ass about you changing bulbs. No worries.

[rcoaster]

True, but when state inspection rolls around...

[Mehilovich]

True, but when state inspection rolls around...

 

Luckily here in KY they don't do annual inspections Only when your car gets damaged to the point of being considered salvaged and needs to be inspected for proper repairs.

[securityguy]

I believe you'll be fine even with a state inspection. We have those here in VA too...not worried.

[DA_MAXX]

In WA state we don't have annual inspections other than emissions testing. Which in my county, I'm excluded.

 

As you see in various threads, when cars have issues, dealers tend to blame non manufacturer options. Have sticking windows, blame the aftermarket tint, etc.

 

I like to keep mods so I can easily back them out. I'm very comfortable rewiring stuff. But having to cut\splice etc. makes it harder to restore it back to the original state.

 

I actually never heard of "switchbacks" until this thread. I had to "google" it. And they look extremely appealing. For now, my turns should be delivered tomorrow and I hope to have them installed in a few days. I'll post pict if they're different from the OP post.

[Mehilovich]

In WA state we don't have annual inspections other than emissions testing. Which in my county, I'm excluded.

 

As you see in various threads, when cars have issues, dealers tend to blame non manufacturer options. Have sticking windows, blame the aftermarket tint, etc.

 

I like to keep mods so I can easily back them out. I'm very comfortable rewiring stuff. But having to cut\splice etc. makes it harder to restore it back to the original state.

 

I actually never heard of "switchbacks" until this thread. I had to "google" it. And they look extremely appealing. For now, my turns should be delivered tomorrow and I hope to have them installed in a few days. I'll post pict if they're different from the OP post.

 

I 100% agree with you as far as irreversible mods go. I refuse to do any sort of splicing, cutting, or otherwise irreversible changes to my car. If I go to take my car in for an electricle issue, I want to be able to remove my lighting mods and easily re-insert the OEM lights.

 

So far I've been able to find HID headlights, LED Switchbacks, LED turn signals that can all be added and removed without altering any of the stock wiring. They all have load resistors and wiring kits included, all of which I can easily remove if needed. Things like LED reverse lights, LED puddle lights, LED license plate lights I wouldn't bother removing, because they're literally plug and play (no additional wiring needed -- what I consider true plug-n-play).

 

Any and all pictures are always welcome, especially if they help explain how you installed them and show where you mount the load resistors! Thank you!

[Mehilovich]

I had a random thought on my way to work.. What type of bulb is in the side mirror turn signals? Are these already LED? LED or Halogen - either way, are there any brighter bulbs to put in there?

 

I got to thinking about it when I was having a conversation in the car about whether I should get the side mirrors painted (rather than having the bottom part black plastic), which led me to thinking about getting that done before I ClearBra, which led me to wondering if the ClearBra would be cut around the light, or cover it entirely, making it impossible to replace the bulb without removing the ClearBra. >.> Thoughts/experience on any of this, either?

[securityguy]

They are LED. Leave them be.

[jMeG]

I had a random thought on my way to work.. What type of bulb is in the side mirror turn signals? Are these already LED? LED or Halogen - either way, are there any brighter bulbs to put in there?

 

I got to thinking about it when I was having a conversation in the car about whether I should get the side mirrors painted (rather than having the bottom part black plastic), which led me to thinking about getting that done before I ClearBra, which led me to wondering if the ClearBra would be cut around the light, or cover it entirely, making it impossible to replace the bulb without removing the ClearBra. >.> Thoughts/experience on any of this, either?

 

Both the approach lighting and turn signals in the mirror are LED.

[Mehilovich]

Both the approach lighting and turn signals in the mirror are LED.

 

Perfect! Thank you! I knew the approach light was LED (that thing is BRIGHT), but wasn't sure about the turn signal! Thank you!

[DA_MAXX]

My iJDM arrived tonight. Did a quick check and I'm unimpressed thus far. First, pictures that 1692 posted were the same as my order. The case for the resistors is plastic, filled with some type of epoxy.

 

First, you remove the existing 7440 connector from the housing and plug them into one end of the resistor assy. Well, that part is complete exposed. No heatshrink or covering to keep moisture out. Sure use electrical tape, that looks good.

 

Second, the LED mounts to the housing with a rubber grommet. It's not a hard plastic that's molded and keyed to turn, like the existing mounting assy. It's a universal rubber grommet that snaps in. It does hold the LED fine. Just a PITA to get in and out.

 

So I undid my quick install and will try and finish the final install this weekend. There are places to mount the resistor box and I'll probably just use tie-wraps to finish the mounting. Haven't looked at the rear end. But I'll deal with that this weekend.

 

If you swap the Lo, Hi, Fog, and Turns there's 4 ballasts\resistor assy. you have to mount. At least the hood covers up the mess.

[Mehilovich]

My iJDM arrived tonight. Did a quick check and I'm unimpressed thus far. First, pictures that 1692 posted were the same as my order. The case for the resistors is plastic, filled with some type of epoxy.

 

First, you remove the existing 7440 connector from the housing and plug them into one end of the resistor assy. Well, that part is complete exposed. No heatshrink or covering to keep moisture out. Sure use electrical tape, that looks good.

 

Second, the LED mounts to the housing with a rubber grommet. It's not a hard plastic that's molded and keyed to turn, like the existing mounting assy. It's a universal rubber grommet that snaps in. It does hold the LED fine. Just a PITA to get in and out.

 

So I undid my quick install and will try and finish the final install this weekend. There are places to mount the resistor box and I'll probably just use tie-wraps to finish the mounting. Haven't looked at the rear end. But I'll deal with that this weekend.

 

If you swap the Lo, Hi, Fog, and Turns there's 4 ballasts\resistor assy. you have to mount. At least the hood covers up the mess.

 

That's interesting to hear that you're unimpressed. Everyone else seems to be in love with them. It did appear that the resistor was in a plastic housing, so that's not extremely surprising, but perhaps a little disappointing. I know I'd feel a little better if it were aluminum (although the plastic and epoxy may not get as hot, so less of a risk there).

 

Any pictures of installation would be incredibly helpful! Apparently my car just arrived at the dealership - 10 days earlier than SOA stated when they made my VIN - so I think I'm going to have VLEDs for front and back rushed overnight. I haven't seen any installation photos, so it's a huge mystery to me on how I'll do this all!

 

The fogs that I ordered through XD apparently don't have any huge resistor you have to worry about hiding, so that takes care of that. Since there don't appear to be any LED high beams that perform as well as Halogens (as far as distance and width), I'm going to stick with Halogen high beams. Having turns and HIDs will certainly be a challenge to hide wiring and resistors x_x I'll be sure to post pictures on how I do it!

[securityguy]

DJ, than your expectations are too high my friend. Absolutely nothing wrong with the resistor unit to be made of plastic and filled with automotive grade epoxy. Anything more is totally unnecessary. Yes, you do have to heat shrink or tape the connectors. I use self bonding silicon tape which is far superior to electrical tape and is typically used for underground cables. Very flexible and pliable. The rubber grommet is a "universal" application and actually does a better job at keeping out moisture. Maybe a PITA to get it out but you should never have to take it out;) I used automotive grade 3M double sided foam to mount the resistors and tied up the wiring with black zip ties. The bulbs work great and more than met my expectations.

[Mehilovich]

DJ, than your expectations are too high my friend. Absolutely nothing wrong with the resistor unit to be made of plastic and filled with automotive grade epoxy. Anything more is totally unnecessary. Yes, you do have to heat shrink or tape the connectors. I use self bonding silicon tape which is far superior to electrical tape and is typically used for underground cables. Very flexible and pliable. The rubber grommet is a "universal" application and actually does a better job at keeping out moisture. Maybe a PITA to get it out but you should never have to take it out;) I used automotive grade 3M double sided foam to mount the resistors and tied up the wiring with black zip ties. The bulbs work great and more than met my expectations.

 

Any local stores you recommend where I can buy the "self bonding silicon tape", or 3M double sided foam tape? Or buy online?

 

I ordered me a set for the rears this afternoon! Still nervous about how the hell to install them? Do I have to pull the whole light out, or just get to it from inside the trunk?