seanyb505 Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 How necessary was the exhaust gear wrench? As of now I only have the intake since I needed it to help open my spare gears for cleaning. Do you think the cam lock tool would have helped? I've been planning on using the old timing belt to help steady the new gears as I torque the TIC FU bolts, but I haven't yet thought through the "setting the timing and installing new belt" process yet. Looking good as usual Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted February 26, 2016 Author Share Posted February 26, 2016 The tools helped the most with the torque sequence. The cam holding tool would have been nice, but Im not sure how it would hold the exhaust. Both required some pressure to hold in their respective spots when installing the belt. But neither was very hard to hold, just awkward by myself. My steps: -Move crank off TDC, about 1/8th turn, so there is no chance of the valves hitting the pistons. -Move RH cams to their respective spots with hand. They'll stay. -Put exhaust tool on the LH exhaust cam and setup the jack stand to hold it in place. -Figure out how to read the alignment marks on the t-belt. I knew the dotted line was special and was probably for crank TDC, but it took some head scratching before I figured it out -Line up LH exhaust cam mark and clamp t-belt there 1st. -Work the lower pulleys and idler over to the RH exhaust cam. Clamp at idler pulley. -Line up belt with RH exhaust and intake cam marks -route belt towards crank. -move crank back to TDC -Align belt at crank -grow a 3rd arm and hold the intake cam in place while you align and clamp belt at the gear and stretch t-belt under tensioner pulley. I went back and forth several times putting more and more tension on the belt by rotating the crank in the right direction. I actually just grabbed the flexplate and did by hand while holding everything still. -pull pin -Rotate crank several times (even number of rotations) to ensure all gear marks still line up -scratch head why alignment marks on t-belt dont line up anymore -remember it's odd tooth count, crack open beer and enjoy success. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 Do not worry about the marks on the timing belt. they mean nothing, the belt doesn't care how it goes on. The belt changes position every time around so it doesn't wear in the same spot. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted February 26, 2016 Author Share Posted February 26, 2016 The marks make installation easier. I found them extremely helpful. They were even in the correct tooth or 1/2 tooth spots and matched the gear marks exactly. The OEM belt is supposedly directional, not sure about the Gates, but lining all of the marks up means that it was installed in the direction they intended. Once you spin the crank 1 revolution, the marks become useless. At least for quite a few rotations. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted February 26, 2016 Author Share Posted February 26, 2016 Max, here is the section that describes the direction. Just don't want others thinking that it doesn't matter which way it goes. It is directional and using the marks means its going the right way. They wont line up if you reversed it. I tried... '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 The last few belts I put on had directional arrows, that's all I needed to put it on. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted February 26, 2016 Author Share Posted February 26, 2016 The gates had no arrows. So the only way to know it was right was to match the marks up. If the marks weren't there (and I knew it was going the correct direction), it would have only been slightly more difficult. Ive installed numerous t-belts with no marks on them. I just wanted to point out that they do make it easier to install. And they are there for a reason (if no arrow exists). '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted March 5, 2016 Author Share Posted March 5, 2016 Here is where it stands. Replaced the fuel lines and all clamps. Installed the JDM TGV deletes and intake manifold. Started installing the IP&T oil lines, the Perrin tube and Samco BOV hose. IP&T AVCS line routing suggestions are much appreciated! I can't figure out a way that satisfies me. http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu139/sti__this/OBXT/2016-03-05.jpg So close to being ready to install. But stuck on a few little things...2 of the PCV hoses broke in half when trying to install. I apparently never ordered a PCV valve or the small hose that goes with it and mine is super gummed up. I want to replace several timing cover bolts. I need to do something about that stupid blue tee and get vacuum hose for all vacuum/boost connections. I need banjo washers for the turbo coolant line and 2 on the LH AVCS line. Tomorrow, I'm planning to finish wrapping the exhaust parts and install onto the motor. Then wire up some gauges and do some interior work. I've got a transmission input shaft seal to put in and need to clean up the radiator support rust. Next weekend should be go time.:spin: '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 6, 2016 Share Posted March 6, 2016 You may want to bolt the turbo to the up pipe and trial fit the tmic to make sure its will line up easier when in the car. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted March 6, 2016 Author Share Posted March 6, 2016 10-4. Planning to install it once the exhaust parts are ready to install. I need to replace the pcv 1st though. Seems easier without the turbo in the way. Well see once I get into it. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted March 6, 2016 Share Posted March 6, 2016 IP&T AVCS line routing suggestions are much appreciated! I can't figure out a way that satisfies me. I routed my oil line under the coolant bypass pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted March 8, 2016 Author Share Posted March 8, 2016 Is there anything special about the evap port on the intake manifold? My evap solenoid will not be getting re-installed and I'm wondering if I can use the port for my boost gauge. Turbo is installed and did a test fit with the TMIC. Waiting on valve cover hoses and PCV stuff. And need banjo washers on 2 bolts. Everything else minus inlet is done. May install the motor before then though. Started prepping the car today. She lost a few more pounds. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 Gauges installed. Interior going back together after my journey through the funk the previous owner left for me. And radiator support rust has been treated/coated. Got help coming Saturday morning for the drop in and forecast looks excellent. Should have everything I need for the 1st 3 oil changes. I've got a case of Amsoil SAE 30w break in oil and some Castrol 5w-30. My plan is to do my initial fill on the Amsoil. Run for 30 minutes, varying RPM and do an oil change with the Amsoil. Then test drive, trying to stay out of boost, still varying load/rpm for 100 miles and switch to the Castrol 5w-30. Then at 500 miles, another change with Castrol and moderate load. And at 1k (or 1500?), switch to 5w-30 HDD Amsoil and giver her hell. Any suggestions are appreciated. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Gauges installed. Interior going back together after my journey through the funk the previous owner left for me. And radiator support rust has been treated/coated. Got help coming Saturday morning for the drop in and forecast looks excellent. Should have everything I need for the 1st 3 oil changes. I've got a case of Amsoil SAE 30w break in oil and some Castrol 5w-30. My plan is to do my initial fill on the Amsoil. Run for 30 minutes, varying RPM and do an oil change with the Amsoil. Then test drive, trying to stay out of boost, still varying load/rpm for 100 miles and switch to the Castrol 5w-30. Then at 500 miles, another change with Castrol and moderate load. And at 1k (or 1500?), switch to 5w-30 HDD Amsoil and giver her hell. Any suggestions are appreciated. You're over doing it. Just put in some cheap ass oil for the 1st 50 miles, run the car around. Drain and fill with the proper 5W30. Run for another 500 miles. Drain and run Rotella T6 or Motul. Then you're good to go. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 I don't disagree. I'm just trying to set myself up.for success. I'm super nervous about first startup. I'm an Amsoil dealer and have got what I use on a regular basis in stock. I picked up the break in oil to put me over the commission limit last month. Almost paid for itself. So I'm sure I won't be buying m1 or t6 for several reasons. I may be biased, but I'm a dealer because I beleive in it. It's not cheaper than the alternative at wally world, even at wholesale. My original plan was to do the castrol with an additive for 1k. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Are the Manley's forged (4032 or 2168)? Follow up is why 5w-30? pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 The Manley's are 2618. Why 5w-30? It's still fairly cold in the mornings (< 40deg) Once it's 50+ everyday, I plan to switch to my normal 10w-30 ZROD. If that happens before I switch to full syn, then I wont be using the HDD this year. I'm assuming that you are referring to the 1st #... The break-in oil is straight 30. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Makes sense. My builder specified 10w-40 on the Estimate/BOM: "from now on must use 10w-40 or if not available can be use 5w-40" Maybe that's because I'm in "sunny" Los Angeles? I'm on 2168s, with pretty tight tolerances. The only time it sees sub 40 degrees is the few times we do an overnight snowboarding trip. I'm probably not going to change the oil for one cold start in a blue moon. Come to think of it, the thicker oil is probably why I never hear slap. I think I did once when it was fairly cold and maybe for a second last over night trip to the mountains.. What gap did you go with, and who/what helped you decide on 5w-30 -> 10W-30? pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 This is my 1st new/rebuilt shortblock and I wouldnt consider myself an expert on oil weight. So take it for what it's worth. I'm under the impression that bearing clearances dictate oil weight before ring gap would. Since I'm using a new OEM shortblock, with OEM bearings and clearances, I figured I'd use OEM weight. The only issue I see is that my cam journals were polished by the machine shop. If oil pressure seems low, I may experiment with thicker oils. The 2nd # is really all that matters at operating temp. The 1st # is the environmental variable. To me ring gap has more to do with efficiency vs durability. Larger ring gaps allow for higher cylinder pressures because there is more room to expand. This comes at the cost of more blow by and less compression. That said, I err'd on the high side of .024. PTW seemed within spec, although I basically just tried to optimize fitment on all 4 bores since they were all B's. I'm here to learn. Any input/comments/criticisms are appreciated. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 I don't disagree. I'm just trying to set myself up.for success. I'm super nervous about first startup. I'm an Amsoil dealer and have got what I use on a regular basis in stock. I picked up the break in oil to put me over the commission limit last month. Almost paid for itself. So I'm sure I won't be buying m1 or t6 for several reasons. I may be biased, but I'm a dealer because I beleive in it. It's not cheaper than the alternative at wally world, even at wholesale. My original plan was to do the castrol with an additive for 1k. Amsoil dealer huh? Gonna hook us up with some oil? My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 Amsoil dealer huh? Gonna hook us up with some oil? Ha! I'd be more than happy to. I really only sell locally to the autocross crowd and a few people at work. But I can have it drop shipped. PM me if you'd like any more info. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted March 12, 2016 Author Share Posted March 12, 2016 Motor is in the car!! Yaaay! I'm missing a banjo fitting for the IP&T oil line. Boooo. I'll get everything else done tomorrow. But I need to source another fitting asap. It's killing me. Pics soon '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 Is there anything special about the evap port on the intake manifold? My evap solenoid will not be getting re-installed and I'm wondering if I can use the port for my boost gauge. On the inside it's a pipe pointed at the center of the plenum. Should give a nice stable reading for MRP. Sent from a device using some software. Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share Posted March 13, 2016 Thanks. I hate vacuum fittings and tees, so I want to have dedicated lines for everything. Coffee is brewing and I'm getting ready tear my garage upside down in hopes that this fitting is out there. IP&T already sent me shipping notification of a replacement fitting, but it would be swell to fire this thing today. Big +1 for IP&Ts customer service. He didn't answer my bolt question. I reuse my stock turbo banjo bolt with a vf52, right? It has 1 small orifice. The one included in the kit had 2 slightly larger ones. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 Correct on stock banjo bolt. I asked that question specifically, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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