cBax's #ynansb thread

[cBax]

IP&T AVCS and Turbo oil lines, Perrin Inlet, Samco BPV hose and TiC FU bolts on the way.

 

I'm taking the heads and a set of Supertech Inconel exhaust valves to the machine shop today to get the Topline valves replaced/refunded.

 

Couple questions:

1. I still need to order an OEM water pump. From my reading, it appears the design changed. That design is the same reason I did not get the Gates pump with my timing set. How do I make sure I get one of the earlier versions? The earlier version is the one that has a "plate" covering the impeller, correct?

2. Any reason to look at anything other than the standard ARP head bolts?

3. Should I go ahead and update the FPR with the STi one?

4. Where is the best place to source oil pressure? I have the adapter plug at the top rear of the block on my list. Any reason I should look into a sandwich adapter instead?

5. I will eventually replace the TMIC. My TB hose doesn't look great but it's usable. I assume that most new TMICs are going to come with that hose, correct? Or if I go FMIC, I know I will need a different one.

6. What hardware needs to be replaced/converted on the turbo? I remember reading to convert the outlet to studs. Is that it?

7. I am installing JDM TGV deletes. Anything other disabling a couple codes and maybe some cold start tuning needed when doing this? They do not have studs for the intake mani like OEM. Should I put some in, or just use bolts?

[Max Capacity]

Quick answer, PM Underdog, he can get you what you need. One stop shopping and info.

[Sgt.Gator]

IP&T AVCS and Turbo oil lines, Perrin Inlet, Samco BPV hose and TiC FU bolts on the way.

 

I'm taking the heads and a set of Supertech Inconel exhaust valves to the machine shop today to get the Topline valves replaced/refunded.

 

Couple questions:

1. I still need to order an OEM water pump. From my reading, it appears the design changed. That design is the same reason I did not get the Gates pump with my timing set. How do I make sure I get one of the earlier versions? The earlier version is the one that has a "plate" covering the impeller, correct?

2. Any reason to look at anything other than the standard ARP head bolts?

3. Should I go ahead and update the FPR with the STi one?

4. Where is the best place to source oil pressure? I have the adapter plug at the top rear of the block on my list. Any reason I should look into a sandwich adapter instead?

5. I will eventually replace the TMIC. My TB hose doesn't look great but it's usable. I assume that most new TMICs are going to come with that hose, correct? Or if I go FMIC, I know I will need a different one.

6. What hardware needs to be replaced/converted on the turbo? I remember reading to convert the outlet to studs. Is that it?

7. I am installing JDM TGV deletes. Anything other disabling a couple codes and maybe some cold start tuning needed when doing this? They do not have studs for the intake mani like OEM. Should I put some in, or just use bolts?

 

1. Get OEM part 21111AA026. For further see Covert Russians post: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4766804

2. No unless you're going for 700 HP.

 

3. Not sure, I'd have to re-read your thread!

 

4. That will work. Avoid the sandwich plate unless you are mounting a remote oil cooler. Then you have to use a sandwich plate with AN line fittings.

 

5. Not sure how many aftermarket TMICs include them.

 

6 & 7. I don't know the answer to these.

[seanyb505]

5. I'm planning on running the GS TMIC. I haven't installed one, nor have I ordered it yet. In watching the installation video, it looks like the throttle body hose is included. I just took that hose off my parts list.

 

6. Grade 8 Nuts and bolts. There's a post in Max's thread that shows them here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3903256&postcount=146

 

7. Interested in this as well as I picked up the same TGVs.

[Max Capacity]

The GS tmic comes with a great TB hose, its how the car should have come stock.

 

I have learned to install the TB hose on the tmic for a couple day's to help it form, it comes a little oval. Some talk about heating that end in hot water to help it slide over the tmic easier.

 

Not that its that hard, its takes a little playing to get it to go round.

 

I spent may be 5 mins doing the first one. In the warmer weather, I installed the TB hose on it and let it sit in the shed and bake in the summer temps for a couple day's till the weekend came.

[cBax]

If you are thinking you might up the boost and shoot for 350/350 or beyond then just use the advantage of the factory bore diameter and tolerances and use the drop-in Manley stock-bore pistons. They're available as single pistons in A and B grade, so you look at the stamp on the block and order what you need.

 

Well...Black Friday got the best of me and a set of 4 "BBBB" Manley's are on order. I'm going to want to turn it up. Might as well give myself some more head room. Now I need to decide if I'm going to get a couple tools and learn how to do this myself or take them to the machine shop.

[baconbits]

Is your block BBBB? Can't say I've ever seen one without at least ONE A

[FJuan]

Well...Black Friday got the best of me and a set of 4 "BBBB" Manley's are on order. I'm going to want to turn it up. Might as well give myself some more head room. Now I need to decide if I'm going to get a couple tools and learn how to do this myself or take them to the machine shop.

 

 

Do it yourself, you will be more proud of yourself once you get it started. Best feeling ever!!

[MTBwrench]

Do it yourself, you will be more proud of yourself once you get it started. Best feeling ever!!

 

 

Agreed! Gapping rings is not a hard job at all, nothing in comparison to a motor swap! The feeling of accomplishment is totally worth it.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[fahr_side]

Like everything else, measure twice, cut (file) once.

 

 

Sent from a device using some software.

[cBax]

I'm going to go for it. I bought a ring compressor, ring spreader and a grinder. I've got some feeler gauges. They may be too short though, the ones in the video I watched yesterday were much bigger and appeared to be easier to use. And I need to make something to pop the wrist pins out.

 

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

[cBax]

Is your block BBBB? Can't say I've ever seen one without at least ONE A

 

Yup. She's a small bore all-around.

 

I was questioning whether the A or B text was going to be 1-3 left to right or positioned in the physical piston location. Guess it doesn't matter now that they are all the same.

 

Yesterday is actually the 1st time I looked at the new new shortblock. I had just confirmed it was a large object in plastic wrap when it was delivered. It's Purdy.

[fahr_side]

File the ring gaps by hand as needed. Remember you can use the ring sets in any cylinder, so move them around before you get to filing.

 

Also, Manley changed their specs for ring gaps last year so download the latest instructions rather than rely on what comes in the box.

 

 

Sent from a device using some software.

[cBax]

Thank you for the ring gap suggestion.

 

Literally no actual progress since my last post. Pistons, compressor, spreader and filer came in. Been super busy with work and family time. I used the 55 deg weekend as an excuse to pull my G35 out again and took my son to the "big city" to meet a local for a used Grimmspeed BCS. And yesterday I helped a buddy get his Evo X MR set up for tuning. He's going to help me with the piston install, as he's done several other motors. One of our local autocrossers is upgrading his 2wd dynocom dyno at his house to AWD this winter. I do some tuning on the side and there is a big buzz about not driving 4 hours to the nearest AWD dyno any more.

 

At this point, I expect the next update to be in frigid January. Hopefully we get a little more than the Jelly of the Month Club at work and Christmas bonus will finish off the purchases to get this thing put back together after the holidays.

[cBax]

Placed my *final* parts orders yesterday. Then 1/2 hour later remembered a few other things...ha. Big OEM order with every rubber hose and clamp that had oil or coolant in it and a load of random other stuff. Also some ARP studs, timing belt guide, cam sprocket tools, tmic stud kit and few other things.

 

Still need a lower block-to-5EAT inspection shield. And a later model oil pan to use with the Killer B pickup. Need to read up on the Killer B windage tray to see if it's something I "need" to do. Those are the only 3 things on my exhaustive list I haven't gotten.

 

Is Fuji Bond a necessity over the equivalent Permatex? Anything other sealants I will need that the local Napa won't carry?

 

 

I'll update the 1st post with an updated parts list soon.

[seanyb505]

I just placed that random every small part order, though mine wasn't as extensive sounds like.

 

I'm using the vintage tray from the later model oil pan. Most times if you find the pan used the tray comes with. KillerB stuff is a little too rich for my blood, especially when I think of m intended purpose for the car. No racing, no high g loads, just daily driving with a spirited mountain drive every 6-12 months. I couldn't justify the kb windage tray.

[FJuan]

Placed my *final* parts orders yesterday. Then 1/2 hour later remembered a few other things...ha. Big OEM order with every rubber hose and clamp that had oil or coolant in it and a load of random other stuff. Also some ARP studs, timing belt guide, cam sprocket tools, tmic stud kit and few other things.

 

Still need a lower block-to-5EAT inspection shield. And a later model oil pan to use with the Killer B pickup. Need to read up on the Killer B windage tray to see if it's something I "need" to do. Those are the only 3 things on my exhaustive list I haven't gotten.

 

Is Fuji Bond a necessity over the equivalent Permatex? Anything other sealants I will need that the local Napa won't carry?

 

 

I'll update the 1st post with an updated parts list soon.

Fuji bond only when connecting the 2 halves of the SB together. Other than that, I've used Permatex for everything else without an issue.

[cBax]

Taking advantage of a 30 deg upwards swing in the weather today and installing these pistons.

 

2nd post updated with current shopping list. I just attached an image, it's a 1000x easier to manage. Although I don't expect it to change much more.

[cBax]

In this video, he specifically says not to line the rings up with the skirt and that they should be lined up with the pins.

 

 

 

Manley's instructions say to line the top and 2nd ring gap on the skirts.

 

http://www.manleyperformance.com/dl/tech/piston-rings.pdf

 

 

My gut says do what the piston manufacturer says, just thought it was odd they were backwards.

[seanyb505]

I seem to remember the manley instructions and the FSM have a similar ring arrangement.

[cBax]

The FSM is opposite of Manley's instructions. Manley says the top 2 ring gaps are at 12 and 6 (the skirts). FSM says 9 and 3 (and specifically says not within skirt). The oil ring instructions match.

 

thoughts?

[fahr_side]

Follow Manley's instructions.

 

 

Sent from a device using some software.

[seanyb505]

Interesting. I'll look at it again. I know I did the 12 and 6 arrangement, and I was using the FSM. Maybe I'm just bad at reading directions...this can't be good.

 

Edit: I see what you're saying now. ME(H4DOTC)-69 describes what you're saying. I'll double check the stack of sheets I printed, because I remember the 12-6 arrangement.

[cBax]

It will be this weekend before I get back to it. I need to make a trip to Harbor Freight for a few things before I can pull the stock pistons.

 

I spent most of the day yesterday cleaning parts that I am re-using and painting a few things. But we have a long stretch of high 30-40 deg weather coming this next week, so things look promising...

 

oil furnace crapped out this morning too... uggh. Hoping I can get what I need on the way home to fix it. May be another cold shower tomorrow morning.

[cBax]

Made a trip to HF for a few missing tools and then got my space cleaned up. Got the pistons pulled. And I went through and matched up the new pins with piston weights so they all average within a gram. Plan for tomorrow is to install everything I can do without one head installed. Today I noticed that one of the head alignment dowels was damaged during shipping. I'm not sure I can get one out of the old block without ruining it, so I'm just going to order a new one with some other stuff I forgot to get.