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rebourne's '06 OBXT build thread


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Which ones are you buying and where from?

 

Back in 2013 I bought the Denso 234-9120, 58k miles and a few header swaps later, still reads true (I watch the AEM Uego often while driving).

 

I swore I was going to go OEM on the next one. Then I went lazy and ordered another Denso from Amazon, bc Prime. It arrived on Sunday and 15min later it was installed.

 

Hrmm.. I wonder if I should return it and order this:

https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-2006-2007-2004-07-Forester-Sensor/dp/B01M72CC4P

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If you installed it, I wouldn't, just seems wrong. But if it looks like a fake, I definitely would return it. Especially since Amazon is getting more and more fakes now days in general.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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It's about 19 on my commute, where I get 16 in the OB. If I really cared, I'd be driving something electric. My G37 got 16 on the same commute. Take the City number and subtract 3, that's my commute mileage. :lol:

 

I have a golf R turbo and a CST catted downpipe in the garage. APR has a tune for the R turbo (Alltrack turbo is IS12, GTI is IS20, R is IS38), and remaps the DSG to work with it, higher shift points, etc etc. 300 to the wheels with 91 on APRs dyno. More than 2x stock. Targeting April for all that work to be done.

Are you doing the work yourself? I'm hoping you can tell me if these cars are harder or easier to work on than the Subarus.

 

If you installed it, I wouldn't, just seems wrong. But if it looks like a fake, I definitely would return it. Especially since Amazon is getting more and more fakes now days in general.

Is there a way to tell if you have a fake one? I haven't had issues with the one I bought about a year ago, but I do recall the cable length between the O2 I replaced and the new one being different colors and different lengths. The new one had a shorter cable with yellow protective wrapping while the older one was wrapped in blue and longer.

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Is there a way to tell if you have a fake one? I haven't had issues with the one I bought about a year ago, but I do recall the cable length between the O2 I replaced and the new one being different colors and different lengths. The new one had a shorter cable with yellow protective wrapping while the older one was wrapped in blue and longer.

 

I haven't seen/heard of Denso ones myself yet, but that was referring to this mostly: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/counterfeit-spark-plugs-281452.html

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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Are you doing the work yourself? I'm hoping you can tell me if these cars are harder or easier to work on than the Subarus.

 

So far some easier, some harder than a honda/subaru.

 

The turbo is not easy to get to. It's between the firewall and engine. Because AWD, you need a lift to remove the one piece stock down pipe.

 

The Deutsche Auto Parts have a video on installing it:

 

My reaction: Oh hell nos. Gonna pay to have that done.

 

Is there a way to tell if you have a fake one? I haven't had issues with the one I bought about a year ago, but I do recall the cable length between the O2 I replaced and the new one being different colors and different lengths. The new one had a shorter cable with yellow protective wrapping while the older one was wrapped in blue and longer.

 

The one I have looks exactly like the one that died. Both have the grey clips that attach to the oem mount. They come with high quality looking anti-sieze, correct warning paper work. Plug snap in without issue. nothing I can see to make me think it's a fake. If they're fake, it's really well done.

 

Pretty sure it's just my car that kills these things.

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The one I have looks exactly like the one that died. Both have the grey clips that attach to the oem mount. They come with high quality looking anti-sieze, correct warning paper work. Plug snap in without issue. nothing I can see to make me think it's a fake. If they're fake, it's really well done.

 

Pretty sure it's just my car that kills these things.

 

Are you running really rich or lean? What kind of header you running again?

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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Are you running really rich or lean? What kind of header you running again?

 

Neither. 14.7 on BTSSM

 

Invidia 1.5 scroll header: https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5339993&postcount=89

 

All I can think of is oil fouling. It uses about a quart every 800-1000. the forged pistons are a little loose I guess.

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So far some easier, some harder than a honda/subaru.

 

The turbo is not easy to get to. It's between the firewall and engine. Because AWD, you need a lift to remove the one piece stock down pipe.

 

My reaction: Oh hell nos. Gonna pay to have that done.

 

I 100% would have the same reaction, lol.

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Ooo that's probably it. Maybe you should relocate the O2 to be behind the turbo. That's something I'm wanting to do myself too, but I have too many projects to do still heh.

 

I heard that may throw off the A/F ratio reading.... I've been tempted to test that theory but decided to leave it alone.

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I heard that may throw off the A/F ratio reading.... I've been tempted to test that theory but decided to leave it alone.

 

I'll do a detailed post about it, if I ever do do it. I just don't want to drill and weld my GS downpipe :spin:

 

at 5k miles per O2, it costs $200/yr. It's like a wear item in my mind now. I got 10k out of the last one, so winning?

 

:lol:

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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I thought the grimmspeed dp was already tapped right behind the turbo for a wide band? Wouldn't that be a fine place for an o2 without throwing of afr, considering that's where many people put their wide bands?

 

Also I thought the forward o2 was unnecessary?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I thought the grimmspeed dp was already tapped right behind the turbo for a wide band? Wouldn't that be a fine place for an o2 without throwing of afr, considering that's where many people put their wide bands?

 

Also I thought the forward o2 was unnecessary?

 

They do, but that's where my wideband lives, so that I'm not blind to what the car is doing :). I could perhaps tap into the aftermarket O2 for the closed loop operation, but that seems pretty complicated on it's own.

 

As for moving the front o2 sensor to downpipe, since the sensor is going to be further away, there are some delays in reading that will happen. Plus it a much less hostile environment, so some O2 related tables might need tweaking.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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Should be fine - that's where the JDM twin scroll setups put their stock O2 sensor. IF I were you, I would put my upstream O2 sensor in the bellmouth behind the turbo, and the wideband on the other end of the downpipe, and then shut off the code for the downstream O2 sensor and just leave it unplugged.
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Depends on the downpipe and version of it, my version of GS downpipe has the O2 bung past the cat, so the readings would be off. I heard newer versions of the GS downpipe have the bung before the cat, so that would work fine for those.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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Let me see if I am following along.

 

I have the cobb DP. Currently my wide band is in the cobb o2 mount right behind the turbo, but I am a loser because I am not monitoring my wideband. I'm also not doing any tuning right now.

 

My rear O2 is plugged in just to trip the "readiness" flag for smogging, but it's not used in the tune.

 

So it's possible to move the front O2, the one that keeps dying, to the wide band location after the turbo? I'm not going to run out and do it, I'm just curious if I am understanding.

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So it's possible to move the front O2, the one that keeps dying, to the wide band location after the turbo? I'm not going to run out and do it, I'm just curious if I am understanding.

 

You got it :bbq:

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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  • 2 months later...

I installed a new Subaru O2 in the Cobb Wideband a few weeks ago. Going well so far. The tune isn't happy at 5th gear WOT. I get a knock even occasionally. Not sure if its the tune or maybe it's the DW65c not able to keep up. My plan is to not go WOT in 5th gear...

 

Also if anyone is curious, I have a build thread for my Golf Alltrack:

 

https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?9375199-Snorlax-the-lazy-sleeper-build

 

49684789356_920b883acd_b.jpg

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Thanks! I love that car.

 

lol, traffic has been really light, and a quick 60-something pull, not a top speed run. It still pulls hard in 5th with the tune (~300 wheels), but something is off.

 

The alltrack doesn't pull at all in 6th with it's tiny turbo, but i already have the parts to fix that... just need to commit to getting the parts installed and the APR tunes.

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