Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

fredrik94087's 2015 WRX


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 668
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Laguna Seca, saturday May 21.

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used CRC GDI valve cleaner. Sprayed it behind the MAF sensor.

 

I was going to spray it into the hole of the MAP sensor, but the car just wouldn't idle in a controlled manner, so I followed the directions on the can.

 

It is safe for turbos and intercoolers. I hope it is also safe for all the hoses holding everything together!

 

My MAP sensor was covered in oil (before I started the cleaning procedure). I sprayed it with CRC MAF cleaner before using the CRC GDI valve cleaner.

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I miss my WRX. I've been in Morocco for the last 10 days and coming home friday. She's sitting there waiting for me :) I got KillerB catted Jpipe off Nasioc for $350 used and will be waiting for me when I get back. Next thing i'll be purchasing is a PW Verticooler most likely as Grimmspeed hasn't made any progress on their intercooler at the moment. Also adding a fuel pump and I should be full Stg 2 by the end of the summer. Also may pick up a ETS Intake for $100 from my friend if he parts out his wrx.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Because I've learned from both my old Spec B and M3, any power modifications beyond an ECU reflash, you need a bigger pump. Especially with track days you don't want to experience fuel cut out. The stage 2 setup I plan to do will put me around the 320whp which is a 100hp increase over stock. You need a bigger pump.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

do you know what DC your fuel pump is running at?

 

Fuel pump at 88.6% and Injectors at 34.75% (EQ Tuning)

 

Fuel pump at 88.6% and Injectors at 33.21% (Snail Tuning)

 

Both at 6000 rpm and WOT. Snail Tuning runs a smidge less boost.

 

Cruising is around 72% for both.

 

I am at 280whp and will not see 320whp unless I upgrade the turbo (minimum).

 

Do I need a bigger fuel pump?

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fuel pump at 88.6% and Injectors at 34.75% (EQ Tuning)

 

Fuel pump at 88.6% and Injectors at 33.21% (Snail Tuning)

 

Both at 6000 rpm and WOT. Snail Tuning runs a smidge less boost.

 

Cruising is around 72% for both.

 

I am at 280whp and will not see 320whp unless I upgrade the turbo (minimum).

 

Do I need a bigger fuel pump?

 

no I'd say 12% is enough head room to ensure you don't go lean. but if you went for any more power i'd do it. i wouldn't want to be above 90% duty cycle for the FP

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12% is danger close. Believe me, you want more power, you need a bigger pump. Any reputable tuning shop will tell you the same thing. Especially with Direct Injection motors, stock injectors are much bigger than port injection, get a bigger pump. For the $300 a fuel pump costs, it's worth it.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I will check with my tuner.

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

Link to comment
Share on other sites

no I'd say 12% is enough head room to ensure you don't go lean. but if you went for any more power i'd do it. i wouldn't want to be above 90% duty cycle for the FP

 

From a theoretical stand point, the fuel pump duty cycle does not indicate whether or not fuel pump is near its capacity. If the fp could not maintain its fuel pressure than that would be an indicator that you have exceeded the maximum capacity of the fuel pump. It isn't a good a be up against the capacity because over time a fuel pumps output will diminish.

 

I have no idea what the WRX fuel pump capacity is, so you should rely on someone with some experience on the topic.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From a theoretical stand point, the fuel pump duty cycle does not indicate whether or not fuel pump is near its capacity. If the fp could not maintain its fuel pressure than that would be an indicator that you have exceeded the maximum capacity of the fuel pump. It isn't a good a be up against the capacity because over time a fuel pumps output will diminish.

 

I have no idea what the WRX fuel pump capacity is, so you should rely on someone with some experience on the topic.

 

the duty cycle of a fuel pump does tell you when you're nearing the pumps capacity. its having to run a certain amount to maintain the needed pressure. obviously noone is going to try to run there car on low fuel pressure (aka leaning out on purpose) when they can just turn up the DC to be at the proper pressure. and yes its effciency will diminish over time just like any pump and in certain situations the effciency is different like when its really warm and fuel density is down (tho that's normally negligible) or if fuel in the tank is sloshing and slightly aerated, hence why you need head room. from what I've read 10-15% is a pretty solid amount of head for the fuel pump DC, tho I'm by no means an expert.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the duty cycle of a fuel pump does tell you when you're nearing the pumps capacity. its having to run a certain amount to maintain the needed pressure. obviously noone is going to try to run there car on low fuel pressure (aka leaning out on purpose) when they can just turn up the DC to be at the proper pressure. and yes its effciency will diminish over time just like any pump and in certain situations the effciency is different like when its really warm and fuel density is down (tho that's normally negligible) or if fuel in the tank is sloshing and slightly aerated, hence why you need head room. from what I've read 10-15% is a pretty solid amount of head for the fuel pump DC, tho I'm by no means an expert.

 

You are right, I didn't realize that the ECM used a pressure sensor on the fuel rail for feedback control of the fuel pressure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

TurboSmart BPV and IAG AOS ordered.

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Changed my oil to Redline 10w40 and added a Fumoto valve.

 

I tried to mount the new wheel/tire combo, but it looks like Falken has decided to run the rt615k a bit wider.

 

275/40/17 98W no longer fits. I swapped back to the older set.

 

The older set has a credit card worth of space between the spring and tire. The new set rubs.

 

I ordered some 5mm and 10mm hubcentric aluminum spacers. Should be fine as I have ARP studs on there. Some fender pulling may be in order....

 

Oh yeah...and on a side note, I now have 1# more boost than before. I used the CRC valve cleaner and now (magically) I have more boost. Could it be the fact that things got cleaned up and there is less clogging?

 

This resulted in fine knock learning of -1.4 at WOT around 5000 rpm. I added 4.5 gallons of 100 octane giving me an effective 93+ octane. The fine knock learning is gone.

 

It was so much easier with NA.

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a sneaky suspicion that the oil had sheared down. Either from use (only 2500 miles) or from the CRC cleaner getting into the oil or a little of both.

 

I had just one chance for WOT and I saw 19.0#. I was seeing 19.8 to 20.1 before the 10w40.

 

Also, I was tuned with the 10w40.

 

I will keep an eye on boost tomorrow and feed-back for you guys. It may just be that the thinner oil allowed the turbo to spool a bit more.

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

Link to comment
Share on other sites

what made you decide on such a high viscosity oil? I've stuck with 5w30 and no issues. I've had the car now 10 months, 6 oil changes and a tune all at 5w30. First 2 oil changes I used Mobil1, 1 Amsoil, the last 3 with Motul all 5w30 and no issues.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I went with higher viscosity as cheap insurance for rod bearings. Suggested to me by my installer. He ran it in his time attack EJ and recommends it to everyone at stage 2 and beyond.

 

I asked about clearances. He has put a few FA motors together and said there is plenty of clearance. I also spoke with a tech at Redline. He was not concerned at all with clearances. He was not concerned with oil pressure with the slight bump in viscosity.. He was more concerned about efficiency (revving, MPG, parasitic loss).

 

I was running Royal Purple 5w30 before switching to a higher viscosity oil.

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think oil brand is vital, and 5w-30 should do just fine. Rather than obsessing over oil brand or additive packages, in a modified turbo application focus more on oil change interval. If you don't allow the oil to stay in long enough to have viscosity breakdown, or load up with unburned fuel, carbon, and other particulates you don't need some super oil.

 

Drop your OCI to 3500 or 4000 miles instead of 5000 miles. Use decent oil like Mobil 1 synthetic, or Castrol Syntec. Use a good filter. Enjoy longer engine life.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use