GTEASER Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 I wonder if the Verticooler would fit the 5th Gen..... GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted March 21, 2016 I Donated Share Posted March 21, 2016 I wonder if the Verticooler would fit the 5th Gen..... Scoop is probably too small, making the hoodline lower. At least, that was true when trying to use the 09-14 WRX splitter from the PW TMIC on the 05-09 LGT. But you never know until you try... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THE RZA Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 Grimmspeed is coming out with something similar from what I've been reading. However PW's Verticooler has been proven to be great on the GR series and once again leading the way with 4th gens. For the price you won't find a better deal either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THE RZA Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 I wonder if the Verticooler would fit the 5th Gen..... Email them and see what they can do for you since you're in a weird position with your car. The one for the GR series would theoretically work for you except for the fact you have a low mounted turbo but it's made for your engine. The one for the 2015 WRX would use the same parts but our Charge pipe is longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KFCConspiracy Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 So... I'm at 700 miles and I've had the car for 2 weeks. Next week I'll be passed the break in period. I also have an AP coming soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted March 28, 2016 Author Share Posted March 28, 2016 Ordered hawk DTC60 pads from KNS. They will be compatible with the Ferrodo pads that came with my Brembos. The hawk pads are not as rotor friendly as Carbotechs...and just as loud for DD ise. I may run them through the summer. Nick said they ran it on their corvette with the only downside being rotor wear. Rotor wear is not a big issue as I want better rotors down the road. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted March 28, 2016 Author Share Posted March 28, 2016 Ordered Fumoto F108S drain valve kit from Amazon (includes locking mechanism and tube for draining) I was going to order from Subispeed, but shipping was $8.99. Amazon shipping was only $4.99. And, Subispeed does not sell a complete kit...just the valve. The valve alone was the same price on Subispeed and Amazon. Amazon wins! "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KFCConspiracy Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 So... 800 miles, no signs of oil loss. And the AP came in the mail. Should be flashing stage 1 in a few days after I hit 1000. Also ordered the Perrin shiftstop clean up the slop in the shifter as well as the Mishimoto intake w/ box. I'll be getting the downpipe this summer, installing, and then driving over to the tuner for the intercooler (It's looking like a verticooler) and other goodies... The downpipe will be easy enough to install that I can't really justify the cost of labor to have them install it and I can just flash to stage 2 for the 15 minute drive... I could probably do the intercooler myself before I leave, but they'll have to take it off anyway for the TGV and EGR deletes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted March 28, 2016 Author Share Posted March 28, 2016 hold off on the intake. do the jpipe, flash stage 2, let them do the intake, tgv, egr, tmic and protune. wait until younhit 5000 miles before going stage 2. no oil loss in 800 miles is a good sign. do your oil change around 1000-1200, then again at 5,000 before going stage 2. Just make sure everything is Kosher with the car. for now, you can just flash the ots stage 1 after your oil change. there is some talk about the oil in your car having a special additive to help break-in. Even with that, I am not convinced you would need more than 1000-1200 for initial break in. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THE RZA Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 Wait until 3000 to do your initial oil change. Certain things from the factory oil need to soak in to your engine first. Also, hold off until 5000 miles to install your accessport. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted March 28, 2016 Author Share Posted March 28, 2016 i did my firat oil change at 1100 miles. accessport went in pretty much immediately. if there is anything floating around, I want it out asap and not at 3000 miles. I get what you are saying though. the factory tune is $hit with AF all over the place...not to mention boost control. The car should run better with the ots stage 1 map. logging will show this. A conservative stage 1 protune will be better. I had a different shop (different than my protuner) dyno my car with factory map and protune map with AF ratio. His feedback was that I had a very good protune with great AF curve. In comparison, he stopped the third dyno run of the factory map saying the car was not too happy. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KFCConspiracy Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 It's just that they want 100 bucks in labor for the effing intake in the itemized estimate... It's 30 minutes to do. I've done it for a friend before on a 2015 WRX... Part of me does not like to give someone 100 bucks for something I can do in 30 minutes tops. I may put it on right before the tune if you guys think I should wait. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripstik Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 It's just that they want 100 bucks in labor for the effing intake in the itemized estimate... It's 30 minutes to do. I've done it for a friend before on a 2015 WRX... Part of me does not like to give someone 100 bucks for something I can do in 30 minutes tops. I may put it on right before the tune if you guys think I should wait. You should just toss it on before you tune. i wouldn't pay any one $100 to do an intake. Plus you don't want to put that intake on without a tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THE RZA Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 most tuners once you book with them will send you a basemap to clear any codes for the intake that will get you by until you get to them for a tune. I still say hold off on the AP for at least 5000 miles. You need to let the car break in first and get used to your driving habits before you modify it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KFCConspiracy Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 You should just toss it on before you tune. i wouldn't pay any one $100 to do an intake. Plus you don't want to put that intake on without a tune. I was going to just flash Stage 1 w/ intake but it seems like I'd want an actual not OTS tune so I'll wait until I put the DP on and then flash "Stage 2" from Cobb and drive over to the tuner. The tuner's shop is only like 5 miles from me, I don't really have to go into boost to go there... Lots of people run stage 2 off the shelf for the life of their car. I don't think it'll hurt anything to install a downpipe and an intake and drive 5 miles on Cobb's off the shelf tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripstik Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 Lots of people run stage 2 off the shelf for the life of their car. I don't think it'll hurt anything to install a downpipe and an intake and drive 5 miles on Cobb's off the shelf tune. oh yea using the stage 2 tune you'll be fine with the intake and dp... but you should still just install that intake yourself. you can have them install the dp, drive it on the ots st2 tune, then install the intake when ever before you get your tune Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THE RZA Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 Install both yourself. Some J-pipe brands come with replacement studs for the turbo bolts, if the brand you get doesn't, go buy new ones from the dealer. They like to become stripped when you remove the nuts from them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted March 28, 2016 Author Share Posted March 28, 2016 there are several write ups and youtube videos...have at it. as for ots map, if you do downpipe and intake, make sure you get the stage 2+ map for mishimoto intake. are you doing ebcs? if not, make sure you remove the correct restictor pill after jpipe install. again, this should all be on cobbs website as well as youtube and nasioc. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted March 30, 2016 I Donated Share Posted March 30, 2016 Ordered Fumoto F108S drain valve kit from Amazon (includes locking mechanism and tube for draining) I was going to order from Subispeed, but shipping was $8.99. Amazon shipping was only $4.99. And, Subispeed does not sell a complete kit...just the valve. The valve alone was the same price on Subispeed and Amazon. Amazon wins! Why would you buy anything from Subispeed anyway after the gigantic clusterf*ck last year with all the credit card fraud and their poor response to it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THE RZA Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 I order from subispeed all the time, their customer service is great and they ship fast. If you used paypal, you didn't have this issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THE RZA Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 can any of you chime in? http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2015-wrx-clutch-issue-same-tranny-5th-gen-251378.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KFCConspiracy Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 Eh, as someone who works in ecommerce, if a merchant has a really cavalier attitude towards a breach that's a good way to get me to not buy... We take PCI compliance pretty seriously, and it's not THAT hard to get it right. Anyways... 1000 miles. Installed the Perrin shift stop. Definitely worth it. It really cleaned up the slop in 1st/2nd. By comparison the shifter is now a pleasure to use. 5th/6th was not all that sloppy for me in the first place, so 5/6 is only marginally tighter. Got to drive it a bit hard and get on it. My impressions: Stock compared to my modded 3.6R, my Legacy was definitely faster, especially after the raptor headers. But I'm sure once I'm dollar for dollar equivalent on the WRX the WRX will be faster. But the WRX handles much better than the Legacy did (I had stock '13 suspension with an upgraded 22mm whiteline RSB, upgraded Kartboy end links all around) which is not in any way surprising. I miss the fact that I don't feel every little pea on the road but I do not miss the 5EAT slushbox. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THE RZA Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 I have the Kartboy Shift Stop mated with the Kartboy SSA and Bearing. I don't really notice much of a difference with the shift stop, it never really bothered me. I did notice a big difference with the Shifter adapter and the bearing though. Shifts are a lot smoother Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KFCConspiracy Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 What I was noticing before the shift stop is if you don't hit first or second straight on it's a little harder to get it into the gear, I mean that could just be me not being the most coordinated person in the world, but that's how it felt stock. After I installed the shift stop it's not possible to not hit first or second dead on, so first to second is smoother, going to first is easier. It's not life changing, but it made the shifter a bit less sloppy and notchier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted April 1, 2016 Author Share Posted April 1, 2016 the shifter stop was same for me. now get yourself a truly heavy shift knob. by the way, is a 17x10 +44 wheel overkill? just thinking. i wont run any wider than 275 but the tire will be just under square and hold better. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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