SBT Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 Thanks for the tool tip on the HCP. What tool did you use to get the seal out? - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted December 21, 2015 Author Share Posted December 21, 2015 Thanks for the tool tip on the HCP. What tool did you use to get the seal out? I removed the oil pump. Experience has taught me that digging a seal out while installed like that is not my first choice. All it takes in a small slip and you put a scratch in the seal surface of the crank - now you're in a world of hurt. If I wrecked the seal surface of the crank then it's game over for this car/engine (unless I could get a speedi-sleeve). I have alternate transportation so I'd have to park it until I have enough time and money to pull the engine again. The oil pump came out easily - 7x 10mm bolts and the final bolt that holds the coolant tube to the oil cooler. Once the pump was out I cleaned off the old permatex and removed the seal with a punch from the inside. New seal and permatex and the pump went back in without any drama. Total time was about 45 minutes for that section of the work. Prying the pump free of the old permatex was the worst bit - just a careful prybar between the a/c compressor/tensioner mount and the molded mount for the crank position sensor. Removing the oil pump (while jacked in the air) only dump the contents of the pump, not the entire system. Just put a sheet of plastic over the exhaust pipe that runs across the front of the engine so the oil doesn't get all over it. My approach may be frowned upon in a shop where time is money, however in MY shop time is free so I will often take a longer, safer path than a shorter, riskier one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 Oh, and here's the tool I use to hold the crank pulley for removal / installation. http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/th_28A25DFA-36CC-471B-950C-2BE80DCE667E.mp4 What do you guys use? I see that you have a 5MT. I basically put it in 5th gear, parking brake on, and loosen the bolt that way. I've done it at least 5 times on three different subarus. It works fine for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted December 21, 2015 Author Share Posted December 21, 2015 I see that you have a 5MT. I basically put it in 5th gear, parking brake on, and loosen the bolt that way. I've done it at least 5 times on three different subarus. It works fine for me. Sure, sounds like that would work too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 Thanks. And sorry, I meant your cam seals when you replaced them. Pretty important "leave-out" sorry. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted December 21, 2015 Author Share Posted December 21, 2015 I did not use a tool to remove the cam seals - I removed the front bearing cap and the seals just fell out. That's how I learned my lesson - dug one seal out with a awl and had to replace the cam! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted January 27, 2016 Author Share Posted January 27, 2016 1400 miles on the new engine. Just did another oil change and sent a sample to blackstone. I have a slight oil leak on the turbo oil return line which I will get to at some point, but it's not a big deal. at 1400 miles the oil level had not dropped ta all. On the old engine I had to add a quart every 500 miles. Assuming the lab report comes back good, it'll be on to tuning for power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 27, 2016 Share Posted January 27, 2016 Very nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 Nicely done My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted February 3, 2016 Author Share Posted February 3, 2016 Blackstone feedback: Thanks for the notes. The only wear metal reading especially high in this sample is copper. That can show turbo bearing wear depending on what the bearing is made of, but high copper is common for a fresh build such as this. Since we're seeing extra silicon (from sealers) too, wear-in seems like a likely source. Sodium at this level looks like harmless oil additive, and since no potassium showed up, it's probably just additive in the oil. The TBN was strong at 6.4. Averages are based on oil run ~3,900 miles. Try that interval and check back to monitor wear-in progress. Copper was 30ppm. Everything else was good except as noted above. Thoughts? Time to tune for power? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted March 8, 2016 Author Share Posted March 8, 2016 My oil pressure at hot idle just dropped to 10psi. Cruising is 55-60 just the same as before. It *was* 15-20psi at hot idle. I'm going to get my hands on an mechanic's oil pressure gauge to confirm, but something doesn't seem right here. It *is* the first warm day this year - 75F. But that shouldn't matter when it comes to internal engine temperature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted March 8, 2016 Author Share Posted March 8, 2016 My manual gauge reads differently from the VDO gauge... VDO 10psi hot idle, 60psi revving Manual gauge 12.5psi hot idle, 90psi revving I'll drive it again tomorrow, see if the pressure is still low again. 10psi makes me nervous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 FWIW, I would trust the manual, or direct reading gauge. Not a big fan of electric oil pressure or temp gauges. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 I still need to pull the turbo off and fix the oil return hose. I'll check it for play. The first BNR 16g I put in there had a ton of play after 1k miles and needed a new center section - that was old engine. If the oil pressure is dropping, one possibility is the turbo bearing clearance is creeping up. That's my task for this weekend, I guess. I drove the car again tonight for 30 mins, oil pressure stayed at about 14psi hot idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 Another thought on oil pressure. The pressure it absolutely fine when the engine is cold, it's only when the engine is hot that it drops. The day I got 12.5 psi was after some spirited driving, more spirited than since the engine was reassembled. I don't have a heat shield on the turbo or downpipe. The up-pipe has heat wrap on it. Question: Could the lack of heat shield cause the oil to heat up, thinning it out and creating the low pressure? The pipes and turbo are pretty close to the oil pan. I drove the car later that night, like a grandma, and the pressures were back at normal. While I have the turbo out I'm going to wrap the downpipe and look at modifying the stock heat shield to work with the BNR16g turbo. I'm also replacing the oil pressure gauge - it won't read above 60psi, despite the fact that my manual gauge shows the engine running at 85psi over 1k rpm. I'm also going to drop the pressure gauge relocation kit as the new gauge has a much smaller sensor that will fit in the factory slot under the alternator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Which oil are you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 Full synthetic pennzoil 5w30 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 Have you consistently used Pennz 5W30 FS, or is this a change? You may want to bump to a 10W40 FS, especially with warmer weather coming. I know that when I ran Valvoline 5W30 Dino and switched to Valvoline 5W30 FS, that my cold and hot pressures dropped slightly. Not a big drop, but definitely noticeable, and nothing as low as you've noted. Went to Valvoline and then Shell RT6 10W40 FullSynth and pressures returned and stayed at normal positions (for my car). To your question about heat shielding, I'm confident that the "through" temp at the turbo, is going to be your most stable, as it's moderated by the coolant, with post-turbo radiant-heated areas less so. So, if you're routing puts your oil line, post-turbo, immediately adjacent to the hotside...that's could raise it at that point, but your coolant effect would pretty much offset that at the gauge. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 Did you change-out your oil pump for a higher output pump? If so, possible cavitation? - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted March 11, 2016 Author Share Posted March 11, 2016 Stock oil pump. Worth noting that I had 15-20 psi hot idle since the day I started the engine for the first time, so its not a progressive loss of pressure. That's just how it's been. Except that day of spirited driving, the pressures behave the same now that they did on day 1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted March 12, 2016 Author Share Posted March 12, 2016 I have 2700 miles on the new engine. Everything is going great except the for low idle oil pressure when it gets hot. Scrappy is back in his familiar haunt, my workshop. The list includes: - Remove turbo and inspect for turbine shaft wear. The last bnr16g was worn out after 1k miles. If this is worn too then I need to replace the center section and work with Bryan to understand why it's wearing out the centers. I need to verify that the banjo bolts I am using for the FP oil line are the right size. - Verify that the restrictor pill is in place - my tuner (Cryotune, great guy!) suspects it may be missing, and he's probably right. - Remove DP and heat wrap it - Modify the heat shield to fit the 16g - Reinstall the turbo and ensure the oil return hose is not leaking - Oil change - Replace the current oil pressure gauge with a better one - Install boost/vacuum gauge - Figure out why my A/C is not working. Suspect slow leak - charge w/UV dye and check it in a week again. - Remove d/s timing cover and verify that the belt is still in good condition. The previous belt was gouged hideously along the back at 45k miles, want to verify it is still in good shape. http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m159/Scruit/IMG_3761.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share Posted March 13, 2016 The turbo bearings are completely shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share Posted March 13, 2016 So, I thought the bearings were good because I was able to reach in from the disconnected downpipe and couldn't feel any play. Now I have the turbo on the bench it's painfully obvious that the bearings are completely shot. The impeller blades are not touching the housing, though. I need to get on the phone with Bryan from BNR and understand what the heck is going on. I've burned through two BNR16g turbos in 4k miles. I'm using the FP oil line with inline filter. What else can I do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 I'd also switch to 10W-40 oil. Sent from a device using some software. Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted March 17, 2016 Author Share Posted March 17, 2016 UPS just picked up the turbo, headed back to BNR. In the meantime I'm installing a different oil pressure gauge and vacuum/boost gauge (bother MaxTow / Glowshift). With the TMIC out it's easier to get at the FW to look for a way into the cabin - but I'm coming up short. I have the 5spd, so the clutch grommet is out. There's a grommet rught under the dogbon mount on the firewall (just above-right of the wiring harness) that I *might* be able to snake a wire throguh, but it's really cramped. My lighted borescope made it far enough through that I can see the light from inside the glovebox, but it's out of reach. Any other suggestions for running wireds through the the cabin? There *is* a grommet on the brake lines that looks like a good candidate, but I'd rather see something on the driver side. There's also a big grommet (2") at the top of the firewall but that leads to the vent intake, not the cabin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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