Underdog Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 In my opinion the AOS is a half-measure between the stock PCV system (which works very well when maintained) and a VTA catch-can setup. If the tune is so aggressive that the slight octane reduction from the PCV charge is going to cause problems then it is already walking the razors edge. samsies, which is also why I think it's crazy when people remove airbags for after market seats... Hey - is that a jab at me? The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 I ordered an AOS because I blow smoke under high load since upgrading to the 1.5XTR. That may turn out to be my injectors though. I don't have knock issues. EDIT: turns out I have only a minute trace of oil in the intake, so the AOS will go up for sale. Sent from a device using some software. Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 I put the gs aos on and ran on ccw tracks, which is the worst combination. I always lost a considerable amount of oil per session. However I blew my engine due to oil starvation on the pcv system on the same tracks. On the gs system, it was higher as tightening the ic connections became a required post run check. That old mantra "stay stock, stay happy" still rings true. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiebeast22 Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 The only thing not on here is I'd like to reinstall the OEM airbox- snorkel. I have the complete oem intake and snorkel. If you still need one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doobaruGT Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 Just chiming in after reading some of your observations. I've been contemplating the IAG AOS system after I've experienced some of the things mentioned above (i.e. burning both synthetic and conventional 5w-30's, large clouds of oil burn-off under high load). I have the GS AOS but it's done very little. I haven't isolated the issue but I'm not surprised since I'm at nearly 200k on the stock 255 and significantly modified. I'm on a AVO 380 and pushing close to 400 crank. Might be a bit less since my cryo conservative re-tune but I haven't run the data yet. Consumption is around 1qt/1k so I check at least every other fill-up. PCV probably needs replaced within the next 10k or so. What's the concensus on the IAG unit? Does it seem to follow the same trends observed or could it be a more useful solution to my thirst SB? One of their units eliminates the PCV altogether and the other matriculates it. Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 Just want to iterate that anyone considering an AOS to resolve problems with oil in the intake tract or excessive oil consumption via ring/valve blow-by should be looking at replacing the factory PCV or getting a compression/leak-down test, respectively. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doobaruGT Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 ...or getting a compression/leak-down test, respectively. Nope! too scared... Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 Nope! too scared... I was too, but had it done anyway all came back clean 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted December 17, 2015 Author Share Posted December 17, 2015 In my opinion the AOS is a half-measure between the stock PCV system (which works very well when maintained) and a VTA catch-can setup. If the tune is so aggressive that the slight octane reduction from the PCV charge is going to cause problems then it is already walking the razors edge. Agreed, except the problem for vent to air catch cans in a race a car is that you can fill the can till it overflows and makes a huge mess + black flag in a race. And in a street car you have to constantly monitor the can. But in both cases unless you are running a loose forged build that probably won't happen. You do have to remember to check it though. The great thing with my dry sump is it totaly solves that problem. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 Yup - aside from being totally illegal for emissions and losing the PCV function, that is the main drawback for VTA catch cans on street cars. But that is the choice people need to make to guarantee an oil free intake tract. Personally I feel a well maintained PCV system is the only thing needed on a properly set up street car. Dry sump is baller status. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 So we need to craft an inexpensive dry sump system that can be installed by the lgt owner? sounds like a trivial problem. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted December 18, 2015 Author Share Posted December 18, 2015 The Spec B is on the road again. It fired right up and ran smooth almost from the first crank. I went for a 10 mile test drive, the motor and clutch worked fine. I never got over 4psi of boost though, intentionally. I was surprised it ran so well with the old tune considering all the reverse to OEM changes I made. I am super pleased for now with the engine! And the clutch is much easier to control. Soon I'll cross the Cascades and head to Cobb Surgeline for a custom tune. The only decision before doing that is to maybe go back to the OEM airbox/snorkel assembly. I'm tired of spending $$ but if I can pick one up here for a good price I'll probably do that. The CAI sound is cool in my race car, not so much for DD GT long distance touring car. The only problem I ran into was it got dark on my way back I discovered I had no low beams. They are TRS Morimoto Stage II HID Kit (5000k/35w) according to Drew's checklist. I'm not sure what Stage II means. I must have missed a plug somewhere. Next up: Replace the aftermarket springs with OEM Spec B which I already have acquired. And snow wheels/tires. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted December 18, 2015 Author Share Posted December 18, 2015 I have the complete oem intake and snorkel. If you still need one. I sent you a PM! Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMileHighLGT Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 You were right AMileHighLGT! I went to do some cleanup today and re-inspect the extra clean cylinder. It's cracked. I'll be trashing these case halves. I guess I need two OEM shortblocks now! I'll probably sell the forged Pistons/Rods and Crank if they look OK. And I'll re-use the ARP studs on the builds. FYI, from the ARP website: Are ARP bolts and studs re-usable? Yes. As long as the fasteners have been installed and torqued correctly, and show no visible signs of damage, they can be re-used. If they show any signs of thread galling or corrosion, they should be replaced. In the case of rod bolts, if any of them have taken a permanent set and have stretched by .001” or longer, you should replace them immediately. See page 29 in the catalog for more detailed information on this critical measurement. Sorry for my late reply, holy 8 months later.. Glad you could catch that before putting it back together!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 Post Rebuild: I ran into one problem, a dang oil leak from the back of the pan! I was super careful installing the pan but either the Permatex Ultra Black failed, or bumping the engine around during the installation weakened the seal enough to cause a slow drip. This is the second pan leak I've had in the last 5 oil pans using Ultra Black so I switched to the Permatex Right Stuff. All fixed! But what a pain it was to redo all that work, especially after the engine was back in the car. I thought I'd post up a few tools that made the engine rebuild go much quicker: In the first pic, left to right: Kobalt Triple Cut (Lowe's & Amazon) razor blade scissors. Awesome for cutting a perfectly square and clean hose end on rubber or silicon hoses. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ROCGJLdKynA Tekton long nose pliers, Straight, 45 degree, 90 degree. In Particular the TEKTON 3492 11-Inch Long Reach 90-Degree Bent Nose Pliers. This is one of those tools that after you use it you say why didn't I buy one of these 20 years ago? It's PERFECT for getting at those OEM squeeze hose clamps that are buried in impossible to reach places. The 45 and 90 pliers saved me a TON of time removing and installing OEM style hose clamps. And the ATD Tools (813) 11'' 3-Piece Ring Nose Pliers Set. Great for breaking a stubborn hose loose. Grab the hose, twist, the seal breaks and it comes off. Finally, my very own Colonel Red Racing Seal Installer. I modeled it after the Subaru ST for installing axle seals in the tranny, but it turns out it's perfect for that and the oil pump seal, and the cam seals. It's made out of heavy duty plastic and works fine with a rubber mallet. Since it's plastic and not steel, if you screw up and smack it too hard and off center you won't bend any metal edges on your engine or tranny, the plastic will give first. If you'd like to obtain one shoot me a PM. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted January 4, 2016 Author Share Posted January 4, 2016 One more tool that is super helpful if you change your radiator fluid a lot. I change mine in the race car and now the Spec B both in the Spring to Water Wetter + Water (no coolant) and in the late fall back to "coolant" anti freeze. So this make that a snap: UView 550000 Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41UeqVC8aoL.jpg [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRH5G]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRH5G[/ame] When you'e ready to refill the system you fill a bucket with the correct amount of water + WW or Water +Antifreeze, plug the system into the top reservoir, attach a compressed air line, and suck a vacuum in the cooling system. Then switch to the bucket of water and suck the water into the radiator/cooling system. Works perfect every time. No bubbles or air pockets. A lot of the 818 guys get them because the Subaru cooling system + the convoluted 818 cooling system makes for problems burping out the air pockets. But even for our stock cars it's very fast. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 Updates? I read all that talk about an AOS with a almost stock tune, and seems like it's not worth it. Now I'm considering selling it..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted April 7, 2016 Author Share Posted April 7, 2016 Updates? I read all that talk about an AOS with a almost stock tune, and seems like it's not worth it. Now I'm considering selling it..... I had an intake leak that was causing issues. I ended up buying an eBay smoke generator to track it down. That tool is great, 5 seconds after applying the smoke I saw the leak. The Turbo inlet hose had partially slipped off the turbo flange. I did a search and discovered this is very common if using a T-Bolt clamp. They are too wide and are prone to slipping off the turbo. Cobb confirmed they don't use T-Bolts on the Turbo inlet pipe to Turbo connection for that reason. Another lesson learned! Putting on miles with an ultra safe tune Cobb Surgeline sent me to get it broken in. It only makes 9 psi boost. I hope that's tune and not something else. The smoke tester is showing no other leaks. One change was they convinced me to install Cobb 1000 cc injectors, they say they tune better than DW ones do. So I have DW 850s I'll probably be selling shortly. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 But you do still suggest against an AOS? I'm running a turbo-back exhaust and an EBCS currently. Those are my only power mods. I'm looking into doing FIC 1000cc injectors, AEM 320lph pump, and a VF52 and Perrin inlet I have sitting. Not looking for tremendous power at the moment, just upgraded preventative maintenance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted April 7, 2016 Author Share Posted April 7, 2016 But you do still suggest against an AOS? I'm running a turbo-back exhaust and an EBCS currently. Those are my only power mods. I'm looking into doing FIC 1000cc injectors, AEM 320lph pump, and a VF52 and Perrin inlet I have sitting. Not looking for tremendous power at the moment, just upgraded preventative maintenance. Yes, with this caveat: Pull off the MAF hose at the turbo inlet hose. Inspect inside the turbo inlet hose, you may have to jam a rag down in it and pull it out. If there is a lot of oil an AOS will be beneficial. If there's just a little bit why disturb and complicate a working oem setup? Subaru still to this day does not include an aos on stock WRX and STI. If it was a real problem they would have done something about it by now. A 400-500-600 HP forged piston motor is a different problem. They run loose and the blow by gases are more extreme. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Custom Trendz Inc. Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 Is that seal tool 3d printed? If so great use of the 3d printer haha. And my buddy used that coolant tool on my car, also lets you hear all the leaks in the system before pouring in fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted April 20, 2016 Author Share Posted April 20, 2016 Is that seal tool 3d printed? If so great use of the 3d printer haha. And my buddy used that coolant tool on my car, also lets you hear all the leaks in the system before pouring in fluid. Yep, it's 3D printed, so is the axle protector. I've finished the break in period. Next up is to drop it off at Cobb Surgeline on Friday for tune. BTW this is probably not a new trick to most of ya'll but....a Mobil 1 one quart bottle cut off screws perfectly into the oil fill spout for a tight, non wobbly, and leak free DIY funnel: Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 You like to like dangerously, letting your fill cap gasket hang out there versus with the cap. I had to top off my oil in a Walmart parking lot once before a long road trip and managed to drop that gasket. It took 20 minutes of banging my under tray to get it to a point where I could grab it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shralp Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 I thought everyone did the cut off oil bottle trick, that's new for you ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted April 22, 2016 Author Share Posted April 22, 2016 You like to like dangerously, letting your fill cap gasket hang out there versus with the cap. I had to top off my oil in a Walmart parking lot once before a long road trip and managed to drop that gasket. It took 20 minutes of banging my under tray to get it to a point where I could grab it. Good Spot! Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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