baconbits Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 Works now. Shinyyyyyyyy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted November 9, 2015 Author Share Posted November 9, 2015 Earlier in the thread I posted picks of my cracked block that was the original block in the Spec B (cracked heads too!), which was the spare longblock hat came with the car. I just found this recent Outfront Motorsports video that explains exactly that crack and their solution with their closed deck block: Made some progress this weekend. Heads/cams/valve covers installed. Shooting for a running car on Dec 1. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Did you get a closed deck block? After watching that video, I'm thinking I should go for 700hp build. have the block and heads for it. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Did you get a closed deck block? After watching that video, I'm thinking I should go for 700hp build. have the block and heads for it. So you've moved into the Wagon? 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 So you've moved into the Wagon? I know, right? Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted November 10, 2015 Author Share Posted November 10, 2015 Did you get a closed deck block? After watching that video, I'm thinking I should go for 700hp build. have the block and heads for it. Nope, OEM Subaru shortblock. Keeping the sanity level in the Spec B rebuild. I like sleeping in my house! Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drew888 Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Hey Gator, just checking in. It's been a while. You are definitely moving in the right direction with your choices. Looking forward to what the next few months bring. Loving the Chevy SS. 0-60 in approx. 4.2 sec with intake/tune in a crazy reliable LS3 helps me sleep at night. Son is off to college next year and daughter two more after that. While I wait to recover after funding private schools I'm dusting off the mountain bike and need to get back in shape. After this winter I'll slowly take the SS out and see what she'll do. It's going to be great seeing the Spec-B back on the road again. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=1586"VbGallery/URL] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Loving the Chevy SS. 0-60 in approx. 4.2 sec with intake/tune in a crazy reliable LS3 helps me sleep at night. Son is off to college next year and daughter two more after that. While I wait to recover after funding private schools I'm dusting off the mountain bike and need to get back in shape. After this winter I'll slowly take the SS out and see what she'll do. You live in SoCal. What's this winter you speak of? My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted November 18, 2015 Author Share Posted November 18, 2015 Almost done with the Timing Belt and Idlers. This link should probably be stickied in some DIY thread on doing the timing belt replacement: https://www.gates.com/~/media/files/gates/automotive/resources/tech-tips-and-tsbs/subaru_loctite.pdf I'm going back to put Loctite on all the idler pulley bolts, not just the belt tensioner. I can't believe I didn't think to do that. I did Loctite all the little timing belt guide bolts. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted November 29, 2015 Author Share Posted November 29, 2015 Almost done! Today: Install new STI Flywheel, Clutch , Pressure Plate. Install A/C and Alternator brackets. Pre-Oil using the Home Depot garden sprayer tool described in another thread. Clean engine bay. Install engine in bay and to tranny, install radiator, hook up coolant lines, overflow tank, intake, TMIC, downpipe, master brake vacuum hose, EGT wideband, A/C and power steering pumps. And then see if it will run. Reversing the Crawford AOS and going back to stock PCV setup was a pain. I had to buy a bunch of little parts and figure out how they all connected at the same time as I figured out the IPT Air Pump Delete and Filtered Turbo Oil Supply Line mods too. It was difficult looking at the FSM and Parts.Subaru drawings to figure out what parts I needed to reverse the AOS with those mods involved too. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted December 11, 2015 Author Share Posted December 11, 2015 The install has been delayed with work and out of town family visits, sorry for the lack of posts. New clutch/flywheel/pressure plate installed. Engine is in the car and mated up to the 6 speed. Exhaust hooked up. I ran into three problems: 1) The turbo housing was a bear getting past the tranny. I'm not sure if it wouldn't have been easier - faster to install the turbo after the engine was in the bay and mated up to the tranny. 2) I got to the end and discovered the last bolt to go in ( tranny- engine mating) was the wrong length! It took me about 45 minutes to figure what was wrong, which bolt that was already installed needed to come out, and make the swap. Lesson, use the Sharpie pen paint trick to mark the bolts and tranny case so you are sure to put the bolts back in the exact place they came out! That would have saved me a lot of aggravation. 3) After mating the engine - tranny the clutch pedal went to the floor and would not come back up. No amount of pumping fixed the issue. No panic though, the exact same thing happened to me when I swapped the 6 speed into the race car. The solution is to pull the starter out, unbolt slave cylinder, hold it above the master cylinder, put a clamp on the slave to keep the pin from pumping out, and bleed it. You want to make sure the bleed screw is the highest point in the system, so you hold the slave cylinder at a 45 degree upward slope. I used a Motive Power bleeder at first, using the universal seal on the master reservoir. It didn't seal very well. Then I discovered that unlike brakes, you can open the bleed screw, push the clutch pedal down slowly, leave it on the floor, close the bleed screw, and slowly pull the pedal back up. Repeat. Brakes would suck air back into the slave cylinder if you try this, but there is no pull on the clutch pedal so no fluid/air goes in reverse, back into the slave. The clutch fluid was nasty, I doubt it's ever been flushed before. There was a coating of black film on the inside of the master reservoir. I cleaned all that out. The new fresh fluid looks great. Between the power bleeder and the hand bleeding I flushed out the entire system of old fluid and yes, some air bubbles. Once the fluid coming out looked clean and the bubbles were no longer there I closed the bleed screw and reinstalled the slave. In two pumps the pedal came up and is working great. Lesson: Clean the reservoir-flush the clutch fluid- bleed the system while the engine is out of the car. Leave the slave cylinder off the tranny when you install the new clutch and connect the new pilot bearing. The six speed clutch install is different from the 5 speed because of the way the clutch pulls vs pushes. Bleeding the 6 speed clutch is also different, although I've read that guys having problems with 5 speed bleeding can use the 6 speed procedure above to fix it. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdcolo Posted December 11, 2015 Share Posted December 11, 2015 . . Ok, , What is a "Spec B" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted December 12, 2015 Author Share Posted December 12, 2015 . . Ok, , What is a "Spec B" Hi hdcolo, welcome to the forum. Before someone else here suggests Google is you friend, and the search tool in the forum, it's a higher performance version of the Legacy GT sedan. The main difference being a 6 speed tranny in the later models, the first year still has the 5 speed. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted December 15, 2015 Share Posted December 15, 2015 Did you keep a running list of parts replaced and/or new things purchased? I need to revert the GS AOS system on my wagon and go back to stock. The parts are long gone, tho. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted December 15, 2015 Author Share Posted December 15, 2015 Did you keep a running list of parts replaced and/or new things purchased? I need to revert the GS AOS system on my wagon and go back to stock. The parts are long gone, tho. Yes I did. I will post it up here this week. Although there are differences between your wagon and the 2008. Well maybe not much since the Spec B has old style heads and the air pump delete. I might fire it up tonight. I was waiting for the stupid dust plug before installing the TMIC. The plug is NOT included on a new shortblock and I probably threw the old one away when I dismantled the engine months ago. I know it's easy to take the TMIC on and off, but I was busy replacing the crash bar - bumper parts anyway. Those parts you stored for me in your garage needed some re -fabbing to fit right on the 2008. I had to cut off part of the brackets and the foam won't work like it should either. IMHO, any FMIC that requires you to ditch the crash bar is very bad idea. I have the Perrin unit on the race car that at least comes with a "sort of" crash/mounting bar. But this RacerX special order one would not work with a crash bar so there was literally nothing protecting the AC/FMIC/Radiator from damage except the flexible bumper skin. And a harder hit would crack the timing covers, jam the timing belt, and blow the engine. I'm sure that it compromises the engineered in crash protection for the occupants too. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted December 15, 2015 Share Posted December 15, 2015 Interesting, I thought the RacerX FMIC was the only FMIC that allowed you to keep the bumper beam / crash bar. I wonder if the better FMICs (Avo, ETS, etc) act as the crash bar. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted December 15, 2015 Share Posted December 15, 2015 Interesting, I thought the RacerX FMIC was the only FMIC that allowed you to keep the bumper beam / crash bar. I wonder if the better FMICs (Avo, ETS, etc) act as the crash bar. Rather have the beam than a piece of tubing any day Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 06 fxt engine, 08 heads, and mismatch of other stuff. Had to download 5 years of manuals to get all the specs to put it back together the last time Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 Rather have the beam than a piece of tubing any day samsies, which is also why I think it's crazy when people remove airbags for after market seats... My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 samsies, which is also why I think it's crazy when people remove airbags for after market seats... Well they add a harness bar so its ok Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted December 16, 2015 Author Share Posted December 16, 2015 OB2.5XT, the RacerX that was in the car was a special custom extra large one. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted December 16, 2015 Author Share Posted December 16, 2015 Here's the parts list. The only thing not on here is I'd like to reinstall the OEM airbox- snorkel. They must be easy to obtain considering all the CAIs that get put on these cars. All these parts are new except the heads and turbo which were rebuilt. Rebuild Parts: Heads Refurbished NAPA machine Shop: $519.37 SuperTech Exhaust Valves 10103AC030 New OEM EJ257 Shortblock 10105AB010 Master Gasket and Seal Rebuild Kit Moroso Oil Pickup STI Oil Pan 21311AA051 Oil Cooler 15010AA300 Oil Pump OEM Oil Filter 11413AA033 Rubber Dust Plug Timing Hole Turbo Rebuilt VF 46 by John Pierce 10921AA080 New OCVs VALVE ASSEMBLY-OIL CONTROL (2) 21111AA240 New Water Pump. (For Race-High performance engines use cast water pump, 21111AA026) 21210AA030 Thermostat 11051AA070 Plug- Cylinder Head (4) Spec B Clutch and Flywheel rebuild: OEM STI (not OEM Spec B DMFW) 12310AA410 Flywheel 30502AA130 Release Bearing 30210AA670 Pressure Plate 30100AA920 Clutch Disc 800610740 Bolt Pilot Bearing 800508310 Bolts Pressure Plate New OEM TMIC 2008 Legacy Spec B TMIC Group: 21821AA031 TMIC 010108300 Bolt 45659AA000 Spacer 45668AA000 Cushion 22656AA020 Gasket 21885AA260 Stay Bracket 901000269 Stay Bracket Bolt 24234AA320 Stay Bracket Clip 14471AA130 Bypass Valve 14497AA010 Bypass Valve Gasket (2) 01040620A Bypass Valve Bolts 805931050 Bypass Valve Clamp 14459AA660 TMIC Duct Assembly Hose 1 14465AA100 Bypass Air Pipe 1 805931050 Clamp Bypass Hose 1 Remove Crawford AOS and Revert to OEM PCV: 99071AD140 Hose 1 11852AA091 PCV Pipe 1 11810AA040 PCV Valve 1 11821AA580 Connector PCV Hose 1 11818AA000 PCV Connector Assembly 1 99071AD210 Vacuum Hose PCV 1 99071AD200 Vacuum Hose PCV 1 99071AC580 Vacuum Hose Intake 1 24234AA261 Clip 1 99071AC010 Vac Hose Pass cover to PCV pipe 1 11852AA091 PCV Pipe 1 99071AC240 Vac Hose Dvr cover to PCV pipe 1 010406120 Flange Bolt PCV Pipe to Intake 4 99071AC260 Vac hose PCV Pipe to Intake 1 99071AD190 Vac Hose Intake Dvr side 1 99071AC220 Hose, Block to Balance Pipe 1 Additional Parts: 11861AA030 Power Brake Vac Hose Assembly 1 14472AA040 Water Tank A Hose 1 092318002 Water Tank A Hose Clamps 2 14472AA050 Water Tank B Hose 1 805918010 Water Tank B Hose Clamps 2 807611181 Hose under water pipe 1 TCK328RB Gates Racing Timing Belt Kit: $244.26 LFR7AIX2309 NGK Spark Plugs 15194AA110 Banjo Bolt 803912030 Gasket 11051AA081 M20 plug 15027AA132 Plug 807012070 Plug 44022AA150 Exhaust Turbo gasket 44022AA180 Exhaust Gasket Turbo Outlet Timing Cover Bolts: 800110360 A11036 4 800708460 A70846 4 800110240 A11024 2 12369AA011 12369 2 800706800 A7068 Little bolts 10 01030645A Timing Cover Flange Bolts Many small vacuum hoses replaced with silicone hose from bulk. Loctite & Permatex Blue Permatex Copper Gasket Sealer Permatex Thread Sealer Permatex Ultra Black Redline Assembly Lube Mobil1 Euro Spec 0W-40 Radiator Coolant Hi Temp Brake- Clutch Fluid for Clutch bleeding. A bunch of hose clamps. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 You're ditching the Crawford AOS and going back to stock because OEM shortblock? Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted December 16, 2015 Author Share Posted December 16, 2015 You're ditching the Crawford AOS and going back to stock because OEM shortblock? You are partly correct. I'm ditching it because I think it contributed to the failure. Maybe not because of the design, but probably because the return line to the block was pinched. My entire intake system, FMIC, everything was coated in oil. The FMIC stood on end and drained for 3 days. I've done a lot of research on AOS's. I've concluded they are not worth the trouble or risk for less than 350HP builds, and stock blocks. My tuner, Cobb Surgeline, also advised against an AOS at or near stock HP/TQ levels. They are prone to problems. And if I were to use one I like the Perrin system best. I've pored over all the install manuals, I think the way theirs hooks up is best. But I'm not putting one on this car. There's a thread on NASIOC that runs 160+ pages. I read the entire thing one night. 50% of the folks love their AOS, 50% blame their AOS for damage. Of course if I get a lot of oil in the intake I'll re-evaluate and probably go Perrin. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 Yes, I read that whole thing before ordering the Crawford. Since it arrived I am less sure I'm using oil... Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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