Bessie II - Enlight's '05 6mt Matte Blacke Wagon

[KZJonny]

You don't have great luck with Evaporust do you? 

Don't put anything magnesium in it!!! It won't be there when you come back to fetch it.....

[cheeseenlo]

@Enlight I thought about your build when I read this on NASIOC. Pulling Killer B's response regarding cold start wear.

The block heater in my opinion is still the way to go for a cheap/simple solution for under 50F weather. Unfortunately, Prime Motoring wasn't able to source a new one for my build so I don't have one installed. So lately, I've been idling until coolant temps are 160-170F before I pull out of the garage. I really need a gauge to show actual oil temperature. My Innovate MTX gauge shows pressure in numerical form but temperature as a fill bar so it's not easy to determine right away. 

Professional race teams pre-heat engines because clearances are too tight. You can't spin an F1 or Nascar crank assembled in an engine on a stand. They are built for optimum clearance AT working temperature.

If you hot tank a Suby rotating assembly to 200° and check the clearances, they are huge. Well beyond the FSM specs.

We like to build our high engine engines very tight compared to traditional clearances, which means care must be taken when cold. NO boost until +180° oil temp, but do not recommend excessive idling. From UOAs we've done over the years we've found our engines have far less fuel dilution and oil breakdown with little to no warm-up idle time. The only time there's really not much choice in the matter is when running E85, with BIG injectors, in colder temps. You just can't do much until there is some heat in the engine. We're talking +800whp, although we've not run a setup like this in a couple of years, so maybe the tuning and injector tech has improved some since then?

We use engine heaters when temps are below ~50° or a few hours before startup on the big builds. I use them even on my winter beater, which also has a mild built engine. Not that it's a must, but it definitely will open up the clearances some and the oil comes up to operating temp much faster. Not only that, but it's also great to get into the car when it's colder out, start it, the heat is already warm, and boost time comes much sooner . Also, no idling required. Oil may not be 'hot' but it is warmer, and the clearances are going to be enlarged promoting improved oil flow, even if the oil itself is cold.

As far as the Zinc goes, we use break-in oil. Eons ago, we used additives, but no longer do. I can see if you are doing a big cam setup, and some of the cam MFGs recommend an additive, but otherwise, no. We did not have good results with T6, but every engine, driver, environment, application, is going to be different. Motul has been our brand of choice for a few years now and UOAs have been very good. I use it even in bone stock cars now too.

Also of note, any engine that has been tuned, one of the first things we do is bump the idle RPM ~100-150, built engines with big power ~800-1,000 RPMs. We do this because at idle you are at the dead bottom of the efficiency range of the oil pump. Even bumping idle by 100 RPMs can have a pretty profound effect on oil pressure and flow. Furthermore, at 14-16psi HOT idle (14psi being the FSM minimum, and my recommendation for anyone a do not cross line in the sand) you're getting drips of oil from the turbo feed and the right exhaust cam passage.

These are just my opinions based on my/our experiences here. Yours will vary, again, based on region, driving style, build, level of engine wear, application, etc., etc...

[Enlight]

Thank you for sharing this, I'm not sure why I haven't seen it earlier. Bumping the idle is very interesting, I'm going to share this with my tuner. If the block heater is good enough for Killer B, I don't see why it's not good enough for us. I primarily use this car for road trips so I'm just worried about having to find an outlet.

As far as rebuild updates, I've put the valve covers back on, along with the cam seals and block plugs, etc. I found it cheaper to purchase a OEM Tools seal installer kit on eBay than the Company 23 install tools. Also, the camshaft cap and the rest of the heads don't line up completely, so using the Company 23 tool would not have seated the seals properly.

While I'm waiting for the water pump and timing kit, I'm going to clean and prep the block for painting with KBS Diamond Coat.

[Enlight]

Over the last few weeks I had some parts vapor honed and are receiving a few coats of KBS Diamond Coat before getting mounted back on the long block. Some sand got into the TGVs so I'm going to have to figure out how to remove the rod and put it back in without damaging it (the flappers are already removed). I watched a video and it showed that the rod can simply be pushed/tapped out. I also had a shop weld the '05 WRX TGV holes shut so I can tap new holes.

Was able to find a replacement O-ring for the sandwich adapter, saving me a few buck to buy directly from Greddy.

Also picked up a Swaintech coated Killer B Header for $880.

The engine block received 3 coats of Diamond Coat, now I'm just waiting for the weather to clear/my brother to come help carry the long block up one flight of stairs. It's not ideal to assemble the accessories onto the long block outdoors but it will be too heavy to carry up if I do. I hope the Diamond Coat does hold up to the 300° F they advertise, they actually list cylinder heads, engine blocks and inlet manifolds on their applications.

And lastly, bonus content of my neighbors cat visiting. I turned around for a second and she wandered all the way from our basement to the second floor.

 

[Enlight]

For posterity

 

[KZJonny]

Steal on the coated Killer B manifold!

Bonus point points for the workshop cat!

[Enlight]

The right burrs really make the TGV job much easier (before and after below). Also finally managed to insert the dipstick into the oil pan with the o-rings intact. Funny how little $3 o-rings can cause thousands of dollars in damage.

 

 

[Febreze Mee]

I don't have TGVs, so I don't have hours of research on anything-TGV. Maybe this has been covered, but would it be possible to use the non-turbo manifold risers instead of the going through what y'all do to delete the TGVs?

I understand there's a connector for them and possibilities of codes being thrown, but if you're getting tuned anyway, couldn't those just be turned off then?

Do the injectors feed differently?

Better question, why wouldn't this work?

[Enlight]

A big splash has been made by Cobb after they stopped offering to "turn off" the codes for TGV deletes in order to comply with EPA rules. The whole industry has been moving towards modifications that don't interfere with a car's emissions equipment (i.e. GESI downpipes).

[Enlight]

Upon tapping the '02-'05 WRX TGV's, I found some of the previous holes were not completely filled thus leaving an empty void. This made it hard to drill down true. Still, 3 out of 4 of the new holes I tapped were able to hold the bolts - for the last one I'm using JB Weld to fill the void before another attempt. I'm going to JB Weld the bolts when I install them, as well.

While waiting for the JB Weld to cure, I moved on to cleaning up the timing cover backings, removing old and reapplying new foam. It helps to have a nylon brush and lacquer thinner for this.

Cut my finger on the oil cooler yesterday (they're deceptively sharp!), but got the RCM upgraded hose kit and sandwich adapter installed.

Since I will have the equipment to prime the engine before first startup, I thought I would also order an M10-1.5 to 1/4" barb so I can flush my turbo in case there's any bearing material hiding in there.

P.S. Oh, and if the block looks shiny that's because it is, 3 coats of Diamond Coat have already been applied. I did not use any of the thinner but if I were to do it again I would. There are some "drip" marks visible but I'm not going to stress.

[Enlight]

DIY pre-oiling solution

 

[Enlight]

Properly clocking '02-'05 WRX TGV's

 

[Enlight]

A long overdue update. Bessie was finished at Vinny Ten Racing 3 weeks ago. With installing all these new parts, including the '02-'05 WRX top feed TGV conversion, I'm frankly surprised nothing blew up. The tuner, Steve, did find that a bunch of o-rings were missing from the fuel pump (which explains the gasoline that was pouring out when I fueled her up), I needed a boost controller, and that some hoses weren't routed correctly. When I asked Steve what I should do as far as break-in procedure, he simply said to let her rip and change the oil - no break-in period. To that end, I've still been varying RPM's up to 5,000 and trying to spend extra time in vacuum. I haven't redlined her yet, but the turbo response is amazing after the @JmP6889928 touch. Dyno sheet forthcoming.

One thing I discovered was that power steering wasn't working at all... I was completely ignorant to its burping procedure. Despite burping and topping off with oil afterwards, the situation deteriorated until P/S fluid flung everywhere over the engine bay and smoke billowed out of my hood. I feared the worst until I pinpointed the source. So much for rebuilding the P/S pump.

Impatient with further delays in launching muFreight, and the role this car would play in its marketing, I decided to bite the bullet and send her to @AZP Installs. That bill was pretty painful, coming in at just under $3,000 for a new pump, steering rack, labor, and installing the clutch shield I forgot. That being said, they did an excellent job and I can't wait to join the 48 Hours of Tri-state event this year.

I dropped Bessie off at Vehicle Wraps 777 on Monday. Right now she's a mish-mash of different colored JDM body parts that kind of reminded me of VW's Harlequin Polo. Below is rendering of what she will look after the wrap. The green background is off, it will actually be 3M's Satin Key West.

While browsing marketplace, I also came across a set of gold 18" x 7.5" +33 offset CE28N-L's... located in Carlisle, PA... just miles from where ECM '23 was. He was selling them for a price I could not pass up so I made the trip there and back in one day, stopping by Philly for lunch with a friend. The wheels are in very rare condition. While there is paint bubbling up in some places from the aluminum oxidation, there is absolutely no curb rash or scratches whatsoever. The tires that it came with, Pilot Sport 2's, are from 2003 - the same year the wheels were made. I wonder how the wheels will look with the wrap.

The seller of the wheels was a nice guy and we chatted for almost 45 minutes. I told him about my car having intermittent starting problems and dying when cranking the steering during idle. He suggested I take a look at the IAG fuel rails which are prone to leaking from the optional fuel pressure damper holes. The car is idling much rougher than I think it should, having a Fluidampr, balanced flywheel, and blueprinted short block.

Despite it being summer, I use the block heater every chance I get. It can usually get the block to the high 90's before start up. I'd like to install the gasoline powered coolant preheater before the winter, in time for 48 Hours of Tri-state. Oil analysis from the 50 mile change has been sent to Blackstone.

[Infosecdad]

The like button is insufficient for this post ^

[Enlight]

Comparing numbers from different dynos is apples to oranges, but we can compare the shape of the curves.

2015 Tune

 

2023 Tune

[KZJonny]

20 lbs peak boost! Bet that makes you want to hang on tight when you finally decide to go full beans on the rebuild!

 

I see a set of ARP head studs and new tune in my future. JPM claims his mightly little CVF40 will touch 20lbs.... (Yes, yes, efficiency and all that... hush now. I just want to see if it will, and how much better it feels.... mine is not a track car.)

 

Awesome all around dude. Can't wait to see (and hopefully get taken for a spin) in the new and improved GT at this years ECM.

 

Shame that time was tight, a steering rack +hoses job really isn't too bad at all DIY, but at least you've got it all buttoned up and leak-free. Considering it seems like it takes 10+ years for most of them to start failing/leaking badly that's not so bad.

[Enlight]

First UOA on the new engine block.

[Enlight]

I'm continuing to shake down the car after getting it back from the wrap shop (a whole 'nother saga) and am getting misfires on 3/4 cylinders:

• P301  - Cylinder 1 (Stored)
• P303 - Cylinder 3 (Pending)
• P304 - Cylinder 4 (Pending)

The problem seems to present itself at idle and not under load. I've never had to trouble shoot this before but it seems like I should start with checking for vacuum/boost leaks. I also wonder whether it has to do with this sliding EGT sensor I installed. The EGT goes on the downpipe, though, so I don't see why it would.

Paging @m sprank, any ideas? Should I record a log with my AP?

 

[xt2005bonbon]

Did they touch the engine?

[Enlight]

This was existing before the vinyl wrap, sorry if that was misleading.

[xt2005bonbon]

Is she running rough at idle only, or in any driving conditions? Can't remember the details on your car.. But are the 'basics' checking fine? For instance,

-correct timing belt teeth count between pulleys as per FSM

-white coil packs plugs in the front of the engine (cyl 1 and 2) and black in the back

-free of vacuum leaks. Although I'd think you'd need a really massive vacuum leak to begin having misfires. It happened to me a looong time ago when the hoses attached to the blue T under the intercooler popped off. If I read your screenshots right, you have some negative learned fuel corrections which would indicate the opposite (boost leak).

 

 

[Enlight]

38 minutes ago, xt2005bonbon said:

Is she running rough at idle only, or in any driving conditions? Can't remember the details on your car.. But are the 'basics' checking fine? For instance,

-correct timing belt teeth count between pulleys as per FSM

-white coil packs plugs in the front of the engine (cyl 1 and 2) and black in the back

-free of vacuum leaks. Although I'd think you'd need a really massive vacuum leak to begin having misfires. It happened to me a looong time ago when the hoses attached to the blue T under the intercooler popped off. If I read your screenshots right, you have some negative learned fuel corrections which would indicate the opposite (boost leak).

She runs rough mostly at idle stalled out on one occasion. I had trouble starting her up again (in the middle of a Brooklyn intersection, no less) until I have her some gas. This may be fuel related but I smell absolutely no fuel in or around the vehicle. I counted the teeth per the FSM twice when installing the belt, not that I'm ruling it out. I will check the coilpacks when I get home - I've made that mistake once before but don't think it's the issue this time.

I do have a feeling this is vacuum/boost related since I just finished reassembling the engine and am not well versed in that stuff. The tuner did fix my issues enough to dyno her, but perhaps he missed catching any number of my mistakes. When I installed all the vacuum/boost lines I replaced them with silicone hose and zip tied them. However, I did not learn about reinforced silicone hose in time, I wonder if ballooning/collapsing can cause any issues at idle.

[KZJonny]

4 minutes ago, Enlight said:

I wonder if ballooning/collapsing can cause any issues at idle

That’s kind of interesting… about the non-reinforced silicon lines.

Vacuum is highest at idle, so that would be wild If you were collapsing a line somewhere… ~10 psi isn’t exaclty a lot, but still…

Unless you blow a line off with boost, slight ballooning shouldn’t matter, if it’s even happening. The lines can’t expand infinitely.

[xt2005bonbon]

Do you have the BtSsm app or an AP, besides that scanner?

[Enlight]

I do have an AP, I will pull some logs. Thanks, I appreciate your help. It may be a few days or even a week before I'm able to get to it. This forum is great.