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Bessie II - Enlight's '05 6mt Matte Blacke Wagon


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perhaps nameless performance will have a usdm version.

 

SOON,

Oh that sounds like something I'd pay for

 

 

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I'm curious if there is any legitimacy to this. I live near Nameless and have had my legacy there a few times for fitment "issues". They basically said that they hate trying to build components for the 4th Gen Legacy platform. For some reason, their designs fot different Legacies differently. At this point, I doubt they would build it.

 

They did recently build a mufflee woth helmholtz resonator for the newer model Crosstrek. I asked of I could get a prototype built for my Legacy and that I'd pay for it. They laughed.

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Damn. Well that's a shame. The helmholz resonator thing seems like an interesting idea but when I was looking for the cat back mentioned above I couldn't find it so I assumed it's jdm magic.

 

Interested to see what the thoughts are on it.

 

 

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For some reasons I can't quote posts now. I'd be more than happy to measure the resonator. Sorry for the late reply, I've been on the 48 Hours of Tri-state drive.

 

As far as the effectiveness of the resonator goes, I've put in two 8+ hour days driving now and the fatigue due to drone is significantly reduced. The turbo whine and some noise coming from my shifter is more annoying by comparison, now. I'm don't want to oversell it but the improvement is appreciable.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Would you mind next time you’re under the car to measure the length and diameter of the additional helmholtz resonator itself and then length and diameter of the tubing connecting it to the midpipe?

 

I don't mind at all. I will pick up a caliper sometime so I can get accurate measurements. Sorry I haven't been able to get to it sooner, I received delivery of a squat rack recently and had to shorten it for my basement. The manufacturer wanted $250 to have it shortened. In hindsight I should've just paid them the money. It's time consuming having to cut everything square on sawhorses, wrap and put everything away due to weather, then unpack everything, then clean off powder coat, then weld. All with shortened daylight.

 

Where did you find that HKS catback?

I'm wanting to pair that mid-pipe with a set of Silent Hi-Power (or maybe ES Premium) and it's not easy to find it.

 

I found it on Croooober. I used GET-JPN.com to ship it to CA then used UPS to ship it to NY, in for about $1,100 total. There's another similar service called JDM Buyer that I cannot recommend - even if I was hoping to. I ordered two seats from Japan in May of 2020 and they refuse to give any updates. I have a feeling they will be closing shop soon. Customer service from Get-JPN is much better. I ordered through them in late-September and received delivery in early January.

 

I may be selling my ES Premium axle-backs in the future if I decide I want to keep my STi quad tips on, in case you're interested.

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Edited by Enlight

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  • 4 months later...

POR-15'd the new gas tank and parts of the subframe. I managed to remove the discontinued fuel line brackets with the help of the induction heater without damage. Upon closer examination, I found that the new gas tank has exposed metal seams in some places. They are very small, but over the course of 15 years I see how they can lead to leaky tanks.

 

I wish I had a garage to make a zinc plating station. Trying my best to fight off mission creep these days so I can get my YouTube project off the ground.

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  • 4 months later...

Living up to my title as Parts Cannon Bombardier. Car woke up with the HVAC control panel not lighting along with other electrical issues. I thought I had traced the issue down to the HVAC control module, but after replacing it the panel was still dead.

 

I decided it's time to learn to diagnose issues properly so I found a YouTube channel with some good content: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9oM8_U0rB9A]The Trainer #73: Automotive Electrical Fundamentals - Improve Your Electrical Troubleshooting Skills - YouTube[/ame]. Going through the vacation pic diagnostic steps, I found that voltage was good but I was getting too high a resistance on both the control panel and the control module. After cleaning up the strut tower ground by the fuse box, the resistance went down as follows:

 

HVAC Control Panel (Acceptable =< 10): 30 -> 19 ohm

HVAC Control Module 1 (Acceptable =< 5): 100+ -> 15 ohms

HVAC Control Module 2 (Acceptable =< 5): 100+ -> 8 ohms

 

I'm not sure what other grounding points can affect this harness (i.e. alternator, engine, etc.) but perhaps my understanding of automotive electric is still too limited. I think this could also be contributing to my ER SS code. I'm going to check those grounding points but I'm open to any ideas.

 

My AVO fuel pump is also leaking from the top. The assembly is made out of Delrin (POM) so I ordered a rod of the stuff from eBay and am gonna try plastic welding it.

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The resistance numbers I got were from the harness itself (positive lead to terminal, negative connected directly to battery with a long wire) in both the control panel (radio) and the control module (the computer on the blower). I connected a never-used Highline Audio Double Din as well but it didn't power on either. The radio is fine. The vacation pic manual shows that it has a separate ground.

 

I have a feeling the solution is as simple as the ground straps connecting the chassis to the motor. Just need to get the car on stands to see. Thanks for chiming in, Marvick.

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Passenger vs driver side straps below. It's uncertain whether the passenger strap is the culprit. I can get the resistance down to 0 ohm if I press hard enough but the original connections could have been compromised. The allen head bolt wouldn't budge so I had to put heat and a bolt extractor on it. This bad ground is probably also the cause of my no speedometer/no tach problem.

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Interesting development. Resistance on all ground wires from the HVAC control panel and control module are within spec when the car has been sitting for a while. When I turn the key to "on" position resistance jumps out of acceptable range, even after I turn the car back off. It takes some time for the resistance to fall back into acceptable range.

 

Because of that I decided to move down the diagnostic list and checked for resistance on the communication between the control panel and the module where I got 16k ohms. From the control panel to bulkhead connector, I got 3 ohm. From the bulkhead connector to themodule, I got the 16k ohm again. Unfortunately, that wire runs close to the firewall and beneath the dash, impossible for me to investigate without taking off the dash.

 

I hope someone can point out something I'm missing, but for now it seems like I will have to retreat and live without HVAC for now. No signs of mice or anything. I wonder if a wire was nicked while the dash was being re-installed or the airbag was being replaced.

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Edited by Enlight

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A happy surprise today, my tach and speedometer magically came back today. All I did that could have affected it was cleaning up the ground straps. You can see in the photo the bolt threads were rusted despite being protected in the chassis. After cleaning them I used copper anti-size which I read is electrically conductive.

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Yes, I got all the low hanging fruit ground wise, the ones that remain mean taking off the manifold. I account the good condition of the harness to it spending most of it's life in Utah and California. Last year I neglected to take off the skid plate while doing my usual salt removal wash and it showed.

 

I'm pondering what I could've missed between the HVAC control panel and the control module. I'm getting 16k ohms resistance in the communication line between the two. The manual says that harness runs under the dash. It's very unlikely that a wire under the dash could have gotten damaged. I feel like I'm missing something obvious. There is a connector between the two that I ought to check again.

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More good news today. Thought I would try the HVAC again on a lark and it powered right up. My diagnostic skills are still not up to snuff as I must have been measuring resistance against the wrong wires. Now I'll be able to drive with heat in the winter.

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