Bessie II - Enlight's '05 6mt Matte Blacke Wagon

[xt2005bonbon]

What comes to mind right now is to double check all four long term fuel trims and also the VVT (also called OCV) angles. You have one per bank. When the engine is under load, these two numbers should be in sync. The max values depend on the tune; as an example, mine peaks at 11 deg. When the engine is not under load, these values should be zero. I would also check that. To be fair though, if something was really wrong with the OCVs, it would throw a code like P0011 or P0012. Still, does not hurt to check..

[Infosecdad]

OCVs are notorious for partially failing without codes.

I have standard silicon hoses, been fine for 40k miles (might be due to replace, but they have been good so far).

Could be intake gaskets (maybe), do you have the newer ones?

I'm curious about what the MAF values are as well.

Misfires are more about something is not in line with expectations, rather than something broke.

 

[Enlight]

Roger that. I replaced the OCV's during the rebuild (not ruling them out). I'll use my smoke machine that's never gotten use to check all the gaskets/connections as well. Fuel trims, MAF values, oh boy... what a journey this is turning out to be.

[Infosecdad]

1 hour ago, Enlight said:

Roger that. I replaced the OCV's during the rebuild (not ruling them out). I'll use my smoke machine that's never gotten use to check all the gaskets/connections as well. Fuel trims, MAF values, oh boy... what a journey this is turning out to be.

OEM OCVs or aftermarket?  I've seen aftermarket never really work right.  If they are OEMs, then I would be really surprised if they were it.  Aftermarket shouldn't be ruled out.

[m sprank]

With the fresh install I would look at afr/ fuel trims and vacuum leaks. If the plug wires were mixed up it probably would not start.  

1 step at a time. 

[Enlight]

37 minutes ago, Infosecdad said:

OEM OCVs or aftermarket?  I've seen aftermarket never really work right.  If they are OEMs, then I would be really surprised if they were it.  Aftermarket shouldn't be ruled out.

OEM (or supposed to be.

12 minutes ago, m sprank said:

With the fresh install I would look at afr/ fuel trims and vacuum leaks. If the plug wires were mixed up it probably would not start.  

1 step at a time. 

Yup, I should probably zoom out and start with the basics. Thanks for chiming in

[m sprank]

2 hours ago, Enlight said:

 oh boy... what a journey this is turning out to be.

Everyday in life with kids.  When your single and modding a 15 year old car the car becomes like a kid. Sassy and expensive and everything is drama. 

[Enlight]

I just visited my friend and his wife at the hospital yesterday, newborn baby girl. A beautiful thing to see.

[m sprank]

I there are specific periods you wish lasted forever. Have not changed my phones home screen background in 8 years. 

[Infosecdad]

26 minutes ago, m sprank said:

I there are specific periods you wish lasted forever. Have not changed my phones home screen background in 8 years. 

100% this.

My oldest is getting married in a couple months... 

I'm not ready for my little girl to be married.

[xt2005bonbon]

13 hours ago, Infosecdad said:

100% this.

My oldest is getting married in a couple months... 

I'm not ready for my little girl to be married.

You may have grandkids soon though

[xt2005bonbon]

14 hours ago, m sprank said:

1 step at a time. 

+1000. Yes, please, check one thing at a time or else you'll get lost and frustrated.

[Enlight]

I plan on installing my coolant pre-heater in the near future and am considering which hoses to tap for the feed and return. The main idea is for the coolant to take the longest path it can in order to heat as much of the block as possible. I was thinking of tapping between the oil cooler and water pump for the feed and after the expansion tank for the return, but then it occurred to me that the water pump might impede the pre-heater since the engine won't be running.

I've thought about the coolant plug locations as well, but I am running a GDT Cylinder 4 Mod so that eliminates one plug. I also have a traditional block heater installed at the bottom of the short block.

I do have an IAG v3 AOS so those lines are also available to use.

Any ideas?

[Enlight]

A diagram straight from our manual.

[KZJonny]

The coolant pre-heater is just radiant heat yes? Any heated coolant has going to move on it's own then? There is no kind of pump in the heater....

[Enlight]

It is a forced hydronic heater so it does indeed have a pump. The manual says it can output 600l/h  and 0.15bar.

[m sprank]

Just out of curiosity how cold is it where the car is stored that you feel the need for a coolant pre-heater?  Just something I am far more accustomed to seeing on Diesel trucks.

[KZJonny]

24 minutes ago, Enlight said:

It is a forced hydronic heater so it does indeed have a pump. The manual says it can output 600l/h  and 0.15bar.

Ah! Well then.

Seems like overkill? But I certainly can't argue with turning over a warm engine each time.... Especially being on a built block as you are.

I'll take a minute and look at those diagrams a little later in the day..

[Enlight]

It's definitely overkill as EFI Logics told me over the phone. I live in zone 7A according to US Dept. of Agriculture. It's more of a n=1 experiment to test the upper limits of how long a forged engine can last. I couldn't find any information of similar undertakings on the internet. Without them, 2618 engines are expected to last less than 100k miles. According to this post, it's not the pistons themselves but the rings. The IAG Stage 2 Tuff also comes with 2618 alloy, which expands more than 4032. After this latest engine replacement I'm not eager to do it again any time soon.

A thought just occurred to me... installing the feed/returns on either side of an inline thermostat might be ideal. That should definitely create the longest path.

[m sprank]

How to make it last the longest, start it and never shut it down.

 

Or as many a Subie enthusiast has said before, if you want it to last don't drive it. 

 

 

[KZJonny]

Or in the vintage motorcycles community:

The reward for wrenching is riding.
The consequence of riding is wrenching.

[m sprank]

So true.

[Enlight]

6 hours ago, m sprank said:

How to make it last the longest, start it and never shut it down.

The goal is to simulate that with the heater (ignoring oil temperature, though if I angle its exhaust towards the oil pan that will also help). The heater is designed to heat coolant up to 185f/85c. That should be enough to get our needles out of the bottom red range ?

[m sprank]

But its the friction between the rings and cylinder wall that cause wear.  This is worst when the oil is cold and the pistons/rings and cylinder walls are cold.  Pistons need to heat up and expand.  Never scientifically tested, but I doubt keeping the coolant temp at 185 will help much with piston slap at start up.  I could be wrong. 

Honestly the correct answer is that MANY owners do not need a built block with forged pistons.  Forged pistons were designed for specific applications.  Just because they work for the race track does not mean they are good for the street. Many times consumers get RACE confused with BETTER.  Better for what? 

Running a 500 mile race is considered equivalent to 100k miles on the street.  If the engine finishes the race it did its job.  OEM engines are typically built with a higher intended lifespan during typical usage.  I attempted to steer many customers away form forged internals, but somehow the interweb, marketing, peer pressure, what ever obviously clouded their brains.  WTF do I know anyway?  I'm just an uneducated, no experience, loud mouthed bully anyhow (and I dont make a living selling built blocks).

 

Either way, I hope the best for you.  I understand the cost and time invested and desire for long term enjoyment over continued wrenching. 

[Enlight]

All well taken! I was all for replacing with just a Type RA block until I grew weak at the sight of a "deal." Nothing more expensive than a good "deal."