2_From_NH Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 Those are the correct numbers. The torsional stiffness of a solid rod is proportional to the 4th power of the diameter. 16mm stock = 1.00 (19/16) ^ 4 = 1.99 (20/16) ^ 4 = 2.44 (22/16) ^ 4 = 3.57 N.B. For a stabilizer bar, you also have to consider the length of the arms at each end. I know the arm lengths are the same for the 16mm and 19mm Subaru bars, and I assume that arms on the 20mm bar are also the same length. I think the aftermarket 22mm bars have variable arm length (e.g. multiple attach holes), so that would affect the overall stiffness of the bar installation. My math wasn't too far off. At least I got the ^4 part right, just divided wrong. Personally, I wouldn't go with adjustable sways for this car, but that's also for the same reason I wouldn't go with coilers - I don't need the adjustability, and I would rather set it and forget it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 With adjustable you can set it to how you like it and then forget it. With non-adjustable you get what you get. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryLeg Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 Yep, that did the trick, thanks! I think someone else here had the same clunk. Try flipping the bar over so that the "hump" in the middle of the bar faces down, away from the spare tire well. I don't think there will be an exhaust clearance issue. The 6th Gen may have a little less clearance to the spare tire well than the 5th Gen did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2_From_NH Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 With adjustable you can set it to how you like it and then forget it. With non-adjustable you get what you get. Off Topic: To a degree. I have adjustable front and rear Whiteline sways on my Toyota, and I've been using them to set it up for autocross so I have the right amount of oversteer. Leaving the front at full stiff makes my car tramline and wander a lot easier on the highway, so I set it back to full soft when I'm done with the event. The rear I only adjust when I am playing around with my setup. Back on topic: Do you know the rates for the adjustable Whitelines for the Legacy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution42 Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 I just installed this Whiteline bar on mid setting and now I am getting an intermittent clunk from the rear... Trying to track it down. I hope it's not the endlinks. I retorqued everything and all is good with that... still getting the clunk though. Noticed something from the pics above, Does the 3.6R have a different rear diff or just a finned cover? Check to make sure the ends of the RSB and the endlinks are not contacting the lower spring perches. Maybe try a different setting on the sway bar to see if the clunk goes away. Also, I had one of the longer bolts supplied with my WL swaybar break when I did the install and I had to replace it with a higher grade bolt. It is just a finned cover and should be the same diff as all Legacys, although possibly different final drive ratio, IIRC, the 3.6R is a 3.90 and the 4 bangers are 4.11 ratio. Subaru was probably anticipating higher torque with the 3.6R over the 2.5i and thought that the diff needed some additional cooling with that drive ratio. They did this on the 5th Gens too, so not sure why they didn't include the finned cover on the GTs. I just installed my Whiteline RSB and can confirm I get a clunk when doing an extreme slalom/left right quick loading. How ungodly tight do I need to make the stock endlinks to kill the clunk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 (edited) I just installed my Whiteline RSB and can confirm I get a clunk when doing an extreme slalom/left right quick loading. How ungodly tight do I need to make the stock endlinks to kill the clunk Don't make them too tight, they may break. Loosen and torque properly. The fix is below. I think someone else here had the same clunk. Try flipping the bar over so that the "hump" in the middle of the bar faces down, away from the spare tire well. I don't think there will be an exhaust clearance issue. The 6th Gen may have a little less clearance to the spare tire well than the 5th Gen did. Yep, that did the trick, thanks! The diameter of the Whiteline bar causes it to rub on the spare tire well. This is not a problem until upsizing to the 22mm bar. 5th Gens had this problem too but only with the Whiteline 24mm bar. Edited May 5, 2015 by GTEASER GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution42 Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 I was proactive and installed mine that way. Maybe mine needs to be installed the other way I'll head out and put the hump up and see if that fixes it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 Do you have anything rolling around in the trunk? GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution42 Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 (edited) Do you have anything rolling around in the trunk? The drivers side endlink had loosened. I have the RSB set on hard and I originally torqued the endlinks to 40 ft lbs. That obviously wasn't enough. I applied more blue thread locker and torqued to 50 ft lbs. Now I can slalom like a mad man and no clunks! Definitely loving the bigger bar. http://s3.postimg.org/od52euuhb/driver.pnghttp://s3.postimg.org/93577nyz3/passenger.png Edited May 5, 2015 by Solution42 Problem solved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_m Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 Do you have anything rolling around in the trunk? My little trunk monkey gets thrown around from time to time ... wonder if his is a little off balance too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
balbrec2 Posted May 16, 2015 Share Posted May 16, 2015 has anyone looked into whether changing out the RSB would cause any issues with the new vehicle warranty? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoda_One Posted May 16, 2015 Share Posted May 16, 2015 (edited) It should not matter since it is a Subaru's OEM part and you are not causing any extra stress to the suspension. But to be safe keep you old 16mm and reinstall if there ever any problems, keep in mind it takes a whopping 15 minutes to install. I would look into the 20mm RSB because it less money and a little stiffer, more pound for the buck. Edited May 16, 2015 by Yoda_One Laughing at Oneself and with Other is good for the Soul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted May 16, 2015 Share Posted May 16, 2015 has anyone looked into whether changing out the RSB would cause any issues with the new vehicle warranty? The only items that can go out of warranty are parts directly attached to any non spec part. But that discussion is moot. is my oem suspension aas warranted for 1 brazillion miles, it would not stay stock. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 has anyone looked into whether changing out the RSB would cause any issues with the new vehicle warranty? A thousand people before you have asked the question and I never heard of a single instance where something went wrong with the suspension and it was attributed to a larger sway bar. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaopealii Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 Being lazy on the research.. Does anyone know if the 22mm whiteline rsb and kartboy endlinks would fit on to a 2015 WRX? If not, does anyone want to buy my rsb w/ endlinks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibjer Posted May 19, 2015 Share Posted May 19, 2015 Check the part numbers that you purchased vs what's sold online. That or just wait and test fit it. '20 Legacy XT Touring 13 Subarus and counting: http://jmaigroup.com/subarus/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted May 19, 2015 Share Posted May 19, 2015 Yes it is the same and fits. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxfoolxx Posted June 12, 2015 Share Posted June 12, 2015 Did anyone else have a lot of trouble tightening the upper 12mm bolt on the bushing? There is such little room in there for a socket wrench, let alone a torque wrench, to fit in there. I wasn't able to tighten it all the way. There was also something else almost touching the driver side end link where the bolt is that i couldn't fit a socket wrench over it and just tightened with pliers. Should I be worried that the upper bolts will fly off while I'm driving one day? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subisnob Posted June 12, 2015 Share Posted June 12, 2015 Did anyone else have a lot of trouble tightening the upper 12mm bolt on the bushing? There is such little room in there for a socket wrench, let alone a torque wrench, to fit in there. I wasn't able to tighten it all the way. There was also something else almost touching the driver side end link where the bolt is that i couldn't fit a socket wrench over it and just tightened with pliers. Should I be worried that the upper bolts will fly off while I'm driving one day? I've installed 3 19mm swaybars on 3 diff 2015 Legacy's. One Legacy had an upper bolt that was all gunked up, it came out hard and was going in hard so I had to use a thread chaser to clean things up. The other 2 cars including my own all went in by finger. Zero problems fitting a 3/8" ratchet w/socket up in there. I rarely torque stuff like that. I just tighten them up. For the end link, I used a ratcheting box wrench and an allen key. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CT2015Legacy Posted June 13, 2015 Share Posted June 13, 2015 For those that are actually torquing the bolt down what is the spec for torque for what bolts...? I ordered the 20mm bar and will be installing shortly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted June 13, 2015 Share Posted June 13, 2015 For those that are actually torquing the bolt down what is the spec for torque for what bolts...? I ordered the 20mm bar and will be installing shortly. Wish I knew...but just use some lock-tite blue and call it a day. That is what was done on mine and never had an issue. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxfoolxx Posted June 13, 2015 Share Posted June 13, 2015 I tried torquing it to the specs on page 4 of this thread. Had to stop by the dealer for something else and asked them to look at the two upper bolts. They said that they couldn't even get them off and that I screwed it in at a wrong angle and potentially would cost a few hundreds of dollars to fix. Complete BS! I was able to unscrew them earlier but it was so hot today that I couldn't stand the heat and possible dehydration by trying it again this morning. Gonna give it another shot tomorrow after I get the windows tinted. Didn't have this problem with the sway bars I installed on my 2011 Impreza and 2003 Accord. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted June 13, 2015 Share Posted June 13, 2015 If you're having trouble with the two top bolts, try removing the two bottom bolts first and see if that makes them any easier to remove. When I replaced my rear sway bar bushings on my 4th gen, I remember doing things in a particular order made things go smoother. And if you've tried with the two bottom bolts out, try putting the two bottom bolts back in and see if that makes a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rayms69 Posted June 13, 2015 Share Posted June 13, 2015 tighten them down evenly, thats a cardinal rule. as new as these cars are, should be able to clean and lube the bolts, then run them in evenly with you fingers. that way you know its not cross threading and going in smoothly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subisnob Posted June 13, 2015 Share Posted June 13, 2015 You do have to be careful with top bolts because I could def feel how they would go in cocked unless ALL pressure was relieved from the brackets. If you do not push UP on bracket before starting to MANUALLY thread the bolts, you will sttip them. Take them out and clean the threads up. You could always throw slightly smaller bolts in there if it came to it. Nut/bolt combo is what I'm referring to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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