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19mm rear sway bar install


Guest rayms69

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Do Any of you know of anyone in Central MA who can install the sway bar for me. I dont have a ramp or tools. Also am not very hands on when it comes to car. The Dealer refused to install it for me.

 

Just find another dealer. I'm sure most would be happy for the business.

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Do Any of you know of anyone in Central MA who can install the sway bar for me. I dont have a ramp or tools. Also am not very hands on when it comes to car. The Dealer refused to install it for me.

 

did you get the 19mm? It's a standard subaru accessory. I don't understand why they would refuse? I'm also in central MA, but have yet to purchase RSB. I think I'll just climb under the car and get dirty. It looks like its only a few bolts.

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^^ definitely a joke. just chiding him since he's always so helpful with pointing members to other threads etc etc. always very helpful. Edited by cdc782
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Better? :lol:

 

Subaru XV Crosstrek Rear Sway Bar Kit - 20mm Install.

 

Model(s):

XV Crosstrek

Model Year(s):

2013 2014

Part Number(s):

20451VA000-20464VA000 x2

- See more at: http://subaruonlineparts.com/subaru-crosstrek-rear-sway-20mm-p-3920.html#sthash.vg1R0xIX.dpuf

 

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Perfect fit, you can probably park the car one side on the curve for easy access to it.

This is a must mod on top of your list! I can notice the different just rolling out of my drive way.

Ride with much more confident now, it feels like a different car.

 

The metal part are being reused, you'll only need three parts to complete this upgrade which is two bushing, one rear sway bar.

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Do Any of you know of anyone in Central MA who can install the sway bar for me. I dont have a ramp or tools. Also am not very hands on when it comes to car. The Dealer refused to install it for me.

 

 

I'm in shrewsbury and have installed rear sways in a few of my previous subaru's, assuming this install isn't much different, I don't mind lending a hand.

'20 Legacy XT Touring

13 Subarus and counting: http://jmaigroup.com/subarus/

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Guest rayms69
I dont see that much corrosion, a little rust on the muffler. The exhaust could have been stainless, im gonna paint mine this summer Edited by rayms69
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I dont see that much corrosion, a little rust on the muffler. The exhaust could have been stainless, im gonna paint mine this summer

 

Agreed. All those components look pretty corrosion-free to me!

 

And besides, it's only a matter of time before it's gonna happen. I'm glad that my Legacy won't see New England until it's older. That will set that corrosion timeline back a few years!

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these subarus are prone to corrosion as evidenced in pics above.

why the f#$%$%$ didnt they use aluminum components is beyond me?

another slap on subarus face

 

The only cars that really use aluminum are sports cars. Stamped steel is so much more practical than aluminum. At least it's not cast!

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The only cars that really use aluminum are sports cars. Stamped steel is so much more practical than aluminum. At least it's not cast!

All Subaru STi and JDM WRX have aluminum front control arms and many early ones had rear lateral links made from aluminum. Also my wife's 2007 BMW 328i has aluminum suspension and subframe components. None of those are sports cars, they are all run of the mill sedans.

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The only cars that really use aluminum are sports cars. Stamped steel is so much more practical than aluminum. At least it's not cast!

 

not!

 

infiniti and lexus have aluminum parts on their cars.

Look at the pics of a new subaru i bot for amount of corrosion this thing will get in future.

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All Subaru STi and JDM WRX have aluminum front control arms and many early ones had rear lateral links made from aluminum. Also my wife's 2007 BMW 328i has aluminum suspension and subframe components. None of those are sports cars, they are all run of the mill sedans.

 

I forgot that the 2006-2007 (and later?) WRX/STI had aluminum suspension members. But I would count those as sports cars. Maybe my definition of sports car is more liberal than most people's?

 

But, I would go as far as to say that a BMW is a sports sedan. While there isn't much special about an entry level 3 series, it is still marketed to a different crowd than your average midsize sedan buyer.

 

Lighter suspension = less unsprung weight = lighter spring (or better body control with same spring vs steel)

 

not!

 

infiniti and lexus have aluminum parts on their cars.

Look at the pics of a new subaru i bot for amount of corrosion this thing will get in future.

 

Infiniti and Lexus are also marketed towards a different crowd than your average Camry/Accord/Mazda6/etc buyer.

 

Like I said before - it's gonna happen regardless. Even my 22 year old Toyota (which has only been driven in snow twice in it's life and routinely kept in a garage) has some corrosion. I'm from New England where they salt the roads and things get rusty with a quickness. For me, cars have a 10 year shelf life, partly due to rust. But, I might just have a different view of what's normal for rusty cars!

 

Where I would draw the line is when corrosion has prematurely (less than 10 years, like in the 5-7 year range) caused significant structural degradation warranting replacement of items that wouldn't normally be replaced (i.e. control arms). Hell, if anything - I'm more worried about the electronic parking brake failing than corrosion!

Edited by 2_From_NH
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Lets keep the discussion pertinent to the thread topic. No thread jacking with corrosion tangents please.

 

Sorry :redface:

 

Back on topic:

 

I will say one thing - I love how easy it is to replace the rear sway bar! Definitely going to be one of my first projects!

 

Has anyone directly compared and tested the difference between the 19mm bar and the 20mm bar? I can't recall the math off the top of my head, but that should be something like a 15% difference (19 vs 20)?

 

And how conservative is Subaru with their damper tuning? I'd hate to max out the rear struts just because I put on a stiffer sway bar!

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Sorry :redface:

 

Has anyone directly compared and tested the difference between the 19mm bar and the 20mm bar? I can't recall the math off the top of my head, but that should be something like a 15% difference (19 vs 20)?

 

And how conservative is Subaru with their damper tuning? I'd hate to max out the rear struts just because I put on a stiffer sway bar!

 

Yes i'm interested in this as well. Trying to determine if i want the 19 or 20. i'm a relaxed driver and just use the car as a daily driver. 19 is probably fine for me but still curious.

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http://www.oakos.com/wrx/swaybarchart.htm

 

The 19 and 20 are respectively 99% and 144% stiffer than the stock 16mm. It seems like a lot, but I went directly to 22mm from the stock 16mm and the 257% improvement was fantastic and not at all as harsh as it may seem.

Edited by GTEASER
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Installed the Whiteline swaybar, medium setting. Getting a clunk from the rear. Re-torqued the bolts and centered the sway bar (was way over the driver side by 1.5"). Can't be sure but I think it did not make the noise before I centered it, at least I didn't notice it.

 

Now it is pretty noticable when I turn a corner and go over a bump or when accelerating/braking hard. I am semi decent garage mechanic so I don't think I installed anything incorrectly but as always, it's possible something is incorrect. Any ideas? Thanks for any help.

 

If I can't get this resolved I'll probably either install Kartboy endlinks or go to a regular 19mm swaybar.

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I think someone else here had the same clunk. Try flipping the bar over so that the "hump" in the middle of the bar faces down, away from the spare tire well. I don't think there will be an exhaust clearance issue. The 6th Gen may have a little less clearance to the spare tire well than the 5th Gen did.
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The 19 and 20 are respectively 99% and 144% stiffer than the stock 16mm. It seems like a lot ...

 

Those are the correct numbers. The torsional stiffness of a solid rod is proportional to the 4th power of the diameter.

 

16mm stock = 1.00

(19/16) ^ 4 = 1.99

(20/16) ^ 4 = 2.44

(22/16) ^ 4 = 3.57

 

N.B. For a stabilizer bar, you also have to consider the length of the arms at each end. I know the arm lengths are the same for the 16mm and 19mm Subaru bars, and I assume that arms on the 20mm bar are also the same length. I think the aftermarket 22mm bars have variable arm length (e.g. multiple attach holes), so that would affect the overall stiffness of the bar installation.

Edited by ammcinnis

"If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." ~ The Cheshire Cat (Alice in Wonderland)

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I'm in shrewsbury and have installed rear sways in a few of my previous subaru's, assuming this install isn't much different, I don't mind lending a hand.

 

 

I am in Shrewsbury too. Will contact once I have the parts I ordered.

 

Thanks

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Those are the correct numbers. The torsional stiffness of a solid rod is proportional to the 4th power of the diameter.

 

16mm stock = 1.00

(19/16) ^ 4 = 1.99

(20/16) ^ 4 = 2.44

(22/16) ^ 4 = 3.57

 

N.B. For a stabilizer bar, you also have to consider the length of the arms at each end. I know the arm lengths are the same for the 16mm and 19mm Subaru bars, and I assume that arms on the 20mm bar are also the same length. I think the aftermarket 22mm bars have variable arm length (e.g. multiple attach holes), so that would affect the overall stiffness of the bar installation.

 

For all these percentages getting thrown around, remember that it is only one part of your rear suspension geometry.

 

A bar that is 10x the stiffness will not affect the rear by 10x (roll/lean/push/etc.). It is only a fractional amount.

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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