Akasa Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 What better option is there to using a worm clamp? That seems like an awfully destructive way for SoA to secure it to the turbocharger inlet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wang Lung Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 By the looks of that disintegration, I don't think it would matter what you used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 The rubber they use simply disintegrate when oil or coolant touches it. Problem is PCV valve and valve cover breathers tend to get oily from blowby and it all pulls on the inlet. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akasa Posted April 3, 2015 Author Share Posted April 3, 2015 Has anyone found a solid remedy to the 2-3k shudder that this car experiences? or is this still a widespread problem? Debating adding that to the list here. I know tunes don't always work in fixing the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zenfamily Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 As far as a replacement for the worm clamps, I recommend using a T-Bolt hose clamp. The worm clamp would allow the inlet to work its way off the turbo. I have had no issues with this since I have gone this route. As far as the shudder goes, the issue went away with a tune when I had the VF-40. I have not experienced the shudder with the BNR-16G turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HugoStiglitz Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 The shudder is not a turbo issue, it has happened on every Subaru I've owned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBear Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 ...making it all the more curious why a turbo and/or tune would make it go away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HugoStiglitz Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 ...making it all the more curious why a turbo and/or tune would make it go away. Most definitely. NA cars can be tuned as well. I just think its well documented on here and by SOA that its a resonance issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 On a factory setup a tune will fix 90% of the shudder, it comes from the the closed loop to open loop delay, aka keeps you lean in boost! Next 8% can be reduced with timing and fuel maps being smoother. Last 2% are just there because Subaru 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HugoStiglitz Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 Maybe I'm confusing it with the low RPM stutter my car has. Or a snail crawled up into my exhaust Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 Honestly no car properly tuned should have a shudder or stutter at any time. It should be as smooth as butter through the rev range. What year car do you have? 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxman Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 Stage 1 OTS fixed the slight flutter that I used to get between 2k and 3k rpm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantiis Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 Since we are talking about inlets, I'm getting studder and I have some other undiagnosed issues with loss of power, but I took this lovely pic of my inlet the other day. Any thoughts? http://i.imgur.com/fCBuT5d.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 Delicious oily blow by (air and oil mixture) from your PCV valve. Looks like it's stuck open and is probably cluttered with the milky stuff too. Wash that out and wash out the PCV valve, replace if it doesn't easily move. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 Honestly no car properly tuned should have a shudder or stutter at any time. It should be as smooth as butter through the rev range. What year car do you have? Yep, my Tuner fixed that issue years ago. www.tuningalliance.com yep, he's that good. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolmers06LGT Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 Oil pickup? OCV's? trunk release lever (sedans)? Great write up! Saw a lot of issues I've faced over the last two years... Even diagnosed a new issue! Passenger valve cover is definitely leaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HugoStiglitz Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Even diagnosed a new issue! Passenger valve cover is definitely leaking. I meant to follow up on my post from a month or two ago. With the help from everyone here, I too was certain my passenger's side valve cover was leaking. I brought it to two different shops and they both concluded it was the head gasket. No oil in the coolant, BOTH said its just an annoying issue and to make sure to be on top of keeping her topped off, zero harm to the engine. One shop said they even recently fabricated a plate (for a Subaru) that they bolted on to divert the oil from dripping onto the exhaust to save the passengers from the smell of burning oil. Now with 110k miles, summer heat coming, and the big timing belt/water pump maintenance up and coming we have to decide when we want to drop $2-$3k on the head gaskets and required maintenance, but for now she spits oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolmers06LGT Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 I meant to follow up on my post from a month or two ago. With the help from everyone here, I too was certain my passenger's side valve cover was leaking. I brought it to two different shops and they both concluded it was the head gasket. No oil in the coolant, BOTH said its just an annoying issue and to make sure to be on top of keeping her topped off, zero harm to the engine. One shop said they even recently fabricated a plate (for a Subaru) that they bolted on to divert the oil from dripping onto the exhaust to save the passengers from the smell of burning oil. Now with 110k miles, summer heat coming, and the big timing belt/water pump maintenance up and coming we have to decide when we want to drop $2-$3k on the head gaskets and required maintenance, but for now she spits oil. Were either shops Subaru shops? It seems unlikely that the head gasket would blow in a way causing oil to leak but not coolant or overheating issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HugoStiglitz Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Were either shops Subaru shops? It seems unlikely that the head gasket would blow in a way causing oil to leak but not coolant or overheating issues. That is what happens most of the time since they re-designed the heads. The previous gen had the internal leak issue big time. Not Subaru shops but I have checked the coolant bottle and they all did as well and came to the same conclusion. Summer will tell if my coolant is compromised I guess. I'm going to flush soon as it needs it anyways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 That is what happens most of the time since they re-designed the heads. The previous gen had the internal leak issue big time. Not Subaru shops but I have checked the coolant bottle and they all did as well and came to the same conclusion. Summer will tell if my coolant is compromised I guess. I'm going to flush soon as it needs it anyways. You need to get under the car with a good flash light. look up at the passenger side valve cover. See the joint where the VC meets the head, that's where most of these cars have the oil leak. If you can wipe it down and check it again in a few day's. A VC gasket is a lot less money than a HG. I think I put a picture of my VC leak in my click here link. I think the pictures start in post #26. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HugoStiglitz Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 You need to get under the car with a good flash light. look up at the passenger side valve cover. See the joint where the VC meets the head, that's where most of these cars have the oil leak. If you can wipe it down and check it again in a few day's. A VC gasket is a lot less money than a HG. I think I put a picture of my VC leak in my click here link. I think the pictures start in post #26. The first shop we brought it to, he put it up on a lift and I went under with him and a flashlight. The valve cover was completely dry. If the leak is on the top side, then I couldn't see it from underneath. I'm not really sure what else to do. The first shop I liked better, he recommended coming back on a warm dry day (when there wasn't snow on the ground) and they would clean it up and take it for a highway ride then put it back on the lift to ensure it wasn't the valve cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HugoStiglitz Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 If you can wipe it down and check it again in a few day's. A VC gasket is a lot less money than a HG. I think I put a picture of my VC leak in my click here link. I think the pictures start in post #26. Just looked at your pics, thanks. Yeah I'll take another look under there soon. Its very hard to see and now I know what a VC leak looks like, but I don't think I can see the heads leaking from the top? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Just looked at your pics, thanks. Yeah I'll take another look under there soon. Its very hard to see and now I know what a VC leak looks like, but I don't think I can see the heads leaking from the top? Correct, you can not see the heads from the top. From the bottom, look above the up pipe. Also check the turbo oil return hose. its rubber and very old by now. It goes into the back of that head. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HugoStiglitz Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 I'm NA actually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 I'm NA actually. Oh, than yea, it might be HG's. I assumed you had a GT. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.