s2baru Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 Smart man. Let her scream!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackal8788 Posted February 3, 2016 Author Share Posted February 3, 2016 I just got off the phone with TiAL and they confirmed that the ~21 PSI cracking pressure I saw in my static test of the wastegate was correct and that with the added backpressure of the exhaust on the face of the valve, it should be very close to 14.5 PSI. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk VF54 to 20G to VF54 to 18G build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jojorios Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 Yet another piece of my puzzle fell into place yesterday with the arrival of this fine piece. After discussion with fahr_side, I've decided to tack weld the flapper door as opposed to using a bracket. That said, I'm wondering the best place to do this. I know I can obviously tack the door itself but I'm wondering if tacking the actuator arm instead might be a little easier to 'undo' if I ever sell the turbo to someone who doesn't want EWG. Thoughts? Any insight as to why you will be going with welding instead of the bracket? I ask since I have already purchased the bracket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 Bracket seems easier. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackal8788 Posted February 3, 2016 Author Share Posted February 3, 2016 Any insight as to why you will be going with welding instead of the bracket? I ask since I have already purchased the bracket. Bracket seems easier. Agreed. I was actually looking at the Grimmspeed bracket but I wanted to get more input on it before going forward. fahr_side noted that they see the brackets loosen up due to thermal expansion and while it may not necessarily cause a leak, it rattles and makes noise. VF54 to 20G to VF54 to 18G build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackal8788 Posted February 3, 2016 Author Share Posted February 3, 2016 Any insight as to why you will be going with welding instead of the bracket? I ask since I have already purchased the bracket. I know - I think you bought it from me right (back when I started to gear up for EWG the first time)? VF54 to 20G to VF54 to 18G build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jojorios Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 No, I bought the bracket from Grimspeed. I think your thinking of the MBC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jojorios Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 Agreed. I was actually looking at the Grimmspeed bracket but I wanted to get more input on it before going forward. fahr_side noted that they see the brackets loosen up due to thermal expansion and while it may not necessarily cause a leak, it rattles and makes noise. Damn. I might have to make it a "make sure it's tight" every oil change type of thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackal8788 Posted February 3, 2016 Author Share Posted February 3, 2016 Tack welding complete. Seems solid enough so I hope the heat doesn't have any impact on it. VF54 to 20G to VF54 to 18G build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acumenhokie Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 Tack welding complete. Seems solid enough so I hope the heat doesn't have any impact on it. I see you went the no f*cks given route. I just used a bracket to hold the arm in the closed position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackal8788 Posted February 3, 2016 Author Share Posted February 3, 2016 I see you went the no f*cks given route. I just used a bracket to hold the arm in the closed position. Indeed I did. Unfortunately, there have been too many mishaps and hiccups (no Subara Stutter pun intended) and I am in extra-critical mode to ensure everything goes right this time. Just ask fahr_side.... VF54 to 20G to VF54 to 18G build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBPeik Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 The welds look good. The exhaust heat should have no effect on the welds. Thanks everybody for clearing up the whole ewg thing for me. Just so I am clear Jackal. You are having a waste gate put into the manifold you are getting correct? My someday I will be done with it thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackal8788 Posted February 3, 2016 Author Share Posted February 3, 2016 The welds look good. The exhaust heat should have no effect on the welds. Thanks everybody for clearing up the whole ewg thing for me. Just so I am clear Jackal. You are having a waste gate put into the manifold you are getting correct? That's correct. There will be a dump tube welded in where the runners merge at the collector (just before the 3-bolt turbo inlet). The WG will reside on the end of the dump tube. In this way, any exhaust gas that enters the turbine housing is 'appropriate' since the WG will have metered out any excess. VF54 to 20G to VF54 to 18G build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBPeik Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 Nice thanks a bunch for clearing that up. Can't wait to see the manifold when its done. My someday I will be done with it thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackal8788 Posted February 3, 2016 Author Share Posted February 3, 2016 Ditto. I don't expect it to be the best in terms of efficiency (I've seen the previous version and the runner merge really doesn't look good) but for what I need, I think it will work just fine. I am also having it ceramic coated so it will take slightly longer but at least it should be reasonably durable. Hope to have pics within 2 weeks. VF54 to 20G to VF54 to 18G build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackal8788 Posted February 4, 2016 Author Share Posted February 4, 2016 Damn. I might have to make it a "make sure it's tight" every oil change type of thing. Sorry jojorios, I missed this yesterday. From what fahr_side said, you shouldn't get leakage with your bracket but it may loosen enough once it heats up to rattle a bit. The thing is that once it cools back down, it will essentially be tight again. You probably won't even notice if it did rattle a bit - after all, these are Subarus VF54 to 20G to VF54 to 18G build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebo03 Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 For the time being, I will not be plumbing back into the downpipe. We'll let it dump to atmosphere and see how loud it really is. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Loud is a relative term but I don't think you'll be overwhelmed by the wastegate dump especially with the windows up. You will certainly know when it opens. My point of reference is an EJ with UEL header and EWG. Those can be ear ringers. Here's my setup after it was tuned December 2014. In a very apples to oranges comparison, here is my brother's Shelby with long-tubes, catless X pipe, and Corsa Sport mufflers. Makes an EWG Subaru seem quiet. I was the one recording it and the audio can't even really capture the sound. It's pretty blistering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBPeik Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 That Shelby sounds sweet My someday I will be done with it thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackal8788 Posted February 4, 2016 Author Share Posted February 4, 2016 From your video, it really wasn't too bad at all. That Shelby on the other hand.... VF54 to 20G to VF54 to 18G build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebo03 Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 (edited) That Shelby sounds sweet 4 more cylinders sure adds to the sweet sounds! By the end of the year he plans to build the engine, add cams, and go with some louder mufflers. The current mufflers on there are mild at idle and part throttle. He's looking for a set of Borla Atak mufflers, which are loud 100% of the time. Edited February 4, 2016 by ebo03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackal8788 Posted February 4, 2016 Author Share Posted February 4, 2016 I keep thinking about my little 'hiccup' situation here and one thing is puzzling me. I get that a disruption in fuel delivery could cause a little hitching but would it necessarily cause my boost to drop instantly? Part of me is picturing the piston of the BPV in a not totally stable state since it just rapidly went from boost to vacuum to boost again. If it was shuttling or still reaching a stable closed state, boost could take a momentary dip as well yes? Could be totally off here too so call me to the carpet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk VF54 to 20G to VF54 to 18G build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBPeik Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 I thought the boost thing was odd as well. It is almost more like a hiccup in the bcs. Don't know though, its odd My someday I will be done with it thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starks Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 Anyone try a synapse synchronic bov? Recirculating or vta relative to your tune obviously. Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 (edited) Anyone try a synapse synchronic bov? Recirculating or vta relative to your tune obviously. Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk blklgt05 uses the Synchronic in full recirc. acumenhokie uses one on full VTA. This is the route I am going to for a full recirc setup when I drop the dime to upgrade the BPV. I believe that you must have the RacerX charge pipe though, it won't fit in the stock location. Edited February 5, 2016 by GTEASER GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackal8788 Posted February 5, 2016 Author Share Posted February 5, 2016 I believe that you must have the RacerX charge pipe though, it won't fit in the stock location. ^True VF54 to 20G to VF54 to 18G build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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