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CovertRussian's 05 LGT Build Thread


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I can see that, that's pretty annoying.

 

I spent last couple hours trying to align the car. The rear bolts were stuck and had to be cut off. No surprise there. I used strings method and not happy, I double checked with my trusty toe plates and it was off front and back. I think center caps are not a trusty way to measure the base distance from.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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Absolutely not...spend the few dollars and go get a proper alignment!

 

If I could find a shop that would actually set my alignment to what I want I would be fine with that. Most will just set to factory ranges, which is 1/8" toe in fron and 1/8" toe in rear, no thanks not paying money for that crap. Plus I still have to install front coilovers (once I can get the damn mounting perches unfrozen) and new tie rods which both require a realignment.

 

I usually use toe plates and they get me pretty darn spot on, but my Infiniti has unequal A arm front suspension so toe doesn't change as you raise the wheels. Rear is a beam, which was preset to 1/8" but I bent it to 0" and never have to worry about it now, but with the rear beam and beam shift strings don't work.

 

The real issue with toe plates is trust angle, hence I tried to use strings, might have to use the axle end or the lug nuts as the center measurement.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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Need to find someone with a modern laser computerized system. Inch standard is OLD technology. It should all be in degrees and with a computerized system since you have an altered suspension they should be happy to do it to your specs since the computer will show green (in spec) based solely on a stock suspension.

 

With your specs it is much less hassle for the tech and they should appreciate it.

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Inch is old, but it's measurable by hand and stays consistent between cars and tires. Degrees requires you to know the tire size to be able to compare them from one car to another.

 

Now keep in mind strings can actually be more accurate then laser and you can account for wheel runout. It's just painful to adjust it all without a pit and without something to let the tires rotate freely.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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Right there with you, since I bought my toe plates 6 years ago I've been doing it myself and saved over $1k... yes I make suspension/car changes that often... I did get the car once on a laser rack at a friends shop, my toe was pretty spot on, but thrust angle is where it gets difficult with toe plates.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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My learning view for A learning has been in the 10's for a while, I've tried finding vacuum leaks but so far found nothing. Next item to check is injectors. When they get clogged flow at idle gets restricted and ECU needs to open them longer to make up for the restricted flow.

 

Got the injectors from a local friend, they should have under 100k miles on them. Went ahead and rebuilt them anyway though, eBay has new o-ring's and Filters for $20 which is a pretty good deal.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Fueling/Injectors/ING_Rebuild_001.jpg~original

 

Install the o-rings first, that way you don't have to stretch the big one over the filter.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Fueling/Injectors/ING_Rebuild_002.jpg~original

 

Kit came with new pintle caps, I personally like the aluminum ones and didn't want to remove them since they were in good shape.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Fueling/Injectors/ING_Rebuild_003.jpg~original

 

All rebuilt

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Fueling/Injectors/ING_Rebuild_004.jpg~original

 

Installation was easier this time around. I used a generous amount of Vaseline on the o-rings and in the fuel rail. This let them pop into place a lot easier then before (plus new orings were probably not as stretched).

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Fueling/Injectors/ING_Rebuild_005.jpg~original

 

Finally here is the learning view after 70 city miles. Looks like injectors were not the problem, unless the new used ones are not flowing well :(

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Fueling/Injectors/ING_Rebuild_006_PostInjectors.jpg~original

Edited by covertrussian

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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Finally got correct sized caliper guide pin boots. Had to get them with the rear caliper rebuild kit. Sadly I already rebuilt the rear ones with aftermarket seals, guess I'll have spares now.

 

Part # 26697FC000

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Brakes/Caliper%20Brackets/20141121_175749.jpg~original

 

Rear Right Wheel Bearing

Rear right bearing started to make noise at 45+mph, it was still subtle, but with the other side already having a new bearing and a long trip coming up got it replaced asap.

 

I personally like to use Timken bearings, they have been working perfectly with the ABS sensors, and are cheaper then OEM ones that are inferior anyway.

 

Part Number: Timken HA590119

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Wheel%20Bearing/Rear/RearWheelbearing_001.jpg~original

 

Don't forget to pull out the ABS sensor before you start. After undoing the 4 bolts in the back, used a slide hammer with FWD hub puller.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Wheel%20Bearing/Rear/RearWheelbearing_002.jpg~original

 

Came right out, though the drum brake assembly was stuck on it, had to hit the bearing with a hammer a few times to get it out.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Wheel%20Bearing/Rear/RearWheelbearing_003.jpg~original

 

Old vs new Timken Bearing

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Wheel%20Bearing/Rear/RearWheelbearing_004.jpg~original

 

Reinstalled the parking brake assembly and used two bolts to hold it in place. Then just threaded them into the bearing and reassembled everything.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Wheel%20Bearing/Rear/RearWheelbearing_005.jpg~original

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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Have you actually smoke tested the car? I had AF learning that was pretty high, around 10-11%, I boost leak checked the car 10 times trying to find leaks but never could find it. I ended up having a tiny tear in my BOV return line that we were finally able to find with smoke. Its amazing how small of a leak will create a 10% AFL.
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How can I do a boost leak test? Is that just a smoke test under boost?

 

Boost leak test involved pressurizing the intercooler piping and seeing where it leaks from. Look up the instructions on how to properly do a boost test, you can blow the crank and cam seals if you don't do it right.

 

Smoke test is a completely different process. I believe you just blow smoke into the charge pipes and see where smoke comes out, once again look up instructions.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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High A learning and normal-ish B, C, D is most likely a vac leak. The reason the B, C, D values are closer to zero is not because the leak seals up under boost; it's because with higher volumes of air coming into the engine the size of the leak is a smaller percentage of the total. In range A you have relatively less air coming in, so a small leak makes a bigger % difference to the total.

 

At 9-10% it is probably a small leak. Mine was at 13-14% and the leak was just a loose TMIC to throttle body coupler, on the throttle body side. A smoke test would find it, but I used a homemade pressure tester without smoke. Hooked it up right after the air box, put about 10 psi into the intake (determined using a mechanical boost gauge), and listened real close for the hissing. It can still be difficult to pinpoint even if your ear gets you in the ballpark, especially if the leak is on the inner/under side of that coupler where you can't get your hand to feel the air stream.

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Agreed ScottFW, I'm not too worried about it honestly. But I do want everything in working order before I start pushing more power out of the block.

 

@BarManBean, 2hrs away. Not a simple get up and go for the afternoon deal.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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Too bad after many years of rock and roll and shooting I cant hear hissing noises. Use hearing protection!

 

Use soapy water. It will bubble at the points where there is a boost leak.

 

I try to protect my hearing as much as I can. Heck I could hear my rear right wheel bearing start whining. Though to be honest I did have my radio off for a day listening to tire wear (hear some wobbles days before).

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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