CovertRussian's 05 LGT Build Thread

[BarManBean]

Not sure why injectors would fix an A-trim issue. Sounds like a small leak. What are you running for intake? Kind of assuming stock, but do you have a stock filter in there? If not, replace that with stock.

[covertrussian]

Not sure why injectors would fix an A-trim issue. Sounds like a small leak. What are you running for intake? Kind of assuming stock, but do you have a stock filter in there? If not, replace that with stock.

 

See this thread, page 3 is where Tehnation found his issue has been clogged injectors all along.

 

Now after installing the new nets on the injectors and driving around today I did find that my A trim was at ~5, but I my oring was destroyed and injector got little damaged from my failed attemp to install it so I used another one. After another one was installed A trim went back up to 11. I now have about 10 injectors with 12 spray holes and 4 with 4, so can play around with mix and maching, but it's such a pita to install these .

 

Best way I found to install these is to slightly tighten the torx bit, then use socket and rubber mallot to punch it down. I read about people pushing them down on center caps but I killed one injector that way .

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Fueling/Injectors/CIMG1537.jpg~original

 

Note this is the one that broke my injector too, the rusted metal bent easily and broke the plastic

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Fueling/Injectors/CIMG1540.jpg~original

 

 

As compared to my Nissan, 0% chance of damaging injector...

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/00%20G20t%20KH3/SR20VE/Injectors/CIMG9574.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/00%20G20t%20KH3/SR20VE/Injectors/CIMG9619.jpg~original

Edited February 24, 2015 by covertrussian

[FJuan]

I'm wonder if my injectors are going bad. When the car goes into "limp" mode, I'll put in some injector cleaner and it fixes the problem. Seems to happen every other month now. The injectors have 140k on them. Might be time for new ones or have them rebuilt.

[covertrussian]

This was gonna be a simple post, but go figure, I can't make a small & detailed post ...

 

Just got back from a 1200 mile roadtrip, got plenty of tune MPG testing done. With the fuel filter in the engine bay, the car goes rich really quick on tip in throttle, since the fuel filter works like a little fuel reservoir (similar to the intake manifold plenum concept). This has me worried about having negative effects on fuel economy and knowing how easily it is to go into boost.

 

Sadly this was a hilly trip (81 south to 40 west), I tried to note down major elevation changes, but still this skews the data as always. I set the cruise control to 70mph, usually the car likes to go +/-1mph from that set speed. Temps hung around 65-85*F for these runs.

 

For first five runs tire pressure was at 47.5psi front, 45psi rear (my tire pressure gauge was bad and said it was 38/36)

First Fill-up was a simple map that I've been running for a while, AVCS set to 15* for 70+mph, stock DBW tables, stock target boost, and WGDC tables just adjusted for downpipe (still produces stock boost). This made 27.75mpg, not great but not bad, I've bee noticing that the car is no longer liking AVCS at 15* with the downpipe.

 

Second Fill-up I went with using a reduced boost tune, since the car hits 10+ psi by holding the cruise control up button for 1-2 seconds, I wanted something that's less likely to get into boost. Same AVCS as before, etc. With some traffic this tune got me 30.03mpg! I will say this table needs to be fixed up to have smoother drivability. With this if you tap the cruise button, it will increase speed by around 1mph, very gently. If you hold it for 1+ seconds it still will hit 10+ psi.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/ECU/MPG%20Tuning/MPG_WGDC_001.png~original

 

Third Fill-up removed the intake snorkle (the cold air one that goes to front of the hood). IAT's now were about 10* higher then ambient, where with it in place they would be about 5* higher. I did hit some traffic, which hurts numbers as usual, either way results were ok at 28.80mpg

 

Fourth Fill-up Reinstalled the snorkle, decided to try my Drive By Wire remapped tables on the stock target boost tune (basically the first run's tune with a linear drive by wire tables). Surprisingly this one didn't do well at all and got me 26.31mpg.

 

Fifth Fill-up Random City driving, no real data to report.

 

For the rest of these runs tire pressure is at 45psi front, 45psi rear.

Sixth Fill-up First Fill-up heading back home, since reduced boost at cruise tunes did so well I used them as bases for the rest of the runs. Still using AVCS @ 15*, but changed the timing table. I noticed that at 2800, stock timing runs 40.12* max, while at 3200 it runs 45.04*. I moved the values down to 2800, that way at 70mph it would run the same timing as at 75mph. This got me 28.50mpg, not bad but not as good as before still.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/ECU/Timing%20Advance/Timing70mph45deg.png~original

 

Seventh Fill-up I saw some knock at 1.15-1.30 range @3200, figured I would play it safe and run AVCS at 10* tops with increased timing. This got me 29.91mpg!

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/ECU/AVCS/DPSTG2AVCS10.png~original

 

Eighth Fill-up With this one I wanted to try running the car richer (14.4afr). Reason for wanting to run it richer is, with e10 stoichmotic is no longer 14.7, it's actually closer to 14.2, but since we can't 100% know how much ethanol each gas station uses it's better to just meet the afr's halfway at 14.4.

I modified the O2 sensor scaling to full it to think, that .10v = 14.70. Sadly the math I did at 2am, got me to around 14.3afr. I also cant read and uploaded the map with stock timing map (not the 45* @ 70mph one). Anyway richer AFR's got me 27.68mpg. I may try this again later, but so far not looking good

 

Ninth Fill-up Since I uploaded the stock timing map, I now needed data with AVCS being at 10* and having stock timing so that I could fully verify that 14.4 AFR's did worse. Same map as eighth fill-up, just with stock 14.7 O2 sensor scaling. This tune got me 29.57mpg.

 

Take Aways from Testing

• Looks like AVCS being at 10 at cruising speeds is a better way to go when your Stage 2. Two weeks ago I even got good results with AVCS being at 0* or 5*.
  
• There is some potential in increasing timing around 2800rpm
  
• There is a lot of potential in messing with wastgate tables
  
• Not much to be gained from tire pressures above 36psi front, 34psi rear.
  
• AFR's: Even with up to 10% ethanol (e10), 14.7afr's are better for fuel economy.
  
• These cars eat a lot of gas city driving and eat a lot if you don't baby it on the highway. I think this is a tuning issue, and is on my to do list to fix.
  
• With 30mpg within fingers reach, new goal is 35mpg.
  

Edited October 17, 2014 by covertrussian

[kzr750r1]

I'm wonder if my injectors are going bad. When the car goes into "limp" mode, I'll put in some injector cleaner and it fixes the problem. Seems to happen every other month now. The injectors have 140k on them. Might be time for new ones or have them rebuilt.

Your reminding me to send my injectors to DeatschWerks. Thanks Man.

 

Thanks again for sharing your work CovertRussian.

Edited September 16, 2014 by kzr750r1

[ssbtech]

Upgraded to the A2WC522N bin, was at A2WC510N, since I was going back to a 100% stock tune, figured I would play with CL to OL Delays.

 

As you can see with the 100% stock tune, you are staying at high 13 AFR's while pushing 12ish PSI. This is also happening while you are at peak torque, where the engine is the most susceptible to knock.

 

 

Moral of the story: ALL TURBO SUBARU's should have closed loop to open loop delay disabled if they want to save their valves and gain some power while they are at it!

 

Is this something that can be done without any other tuning alterations?

 

I'm also on the A2WC522N map on a stock engine (catless up-pipe).

 

I was on the COBB Stage 1 map for several years and still managed to cook 3 exhaust valves.

[covertrussian]

Is this something that can be done without any other tuning alterations?

 

I'm also on the A2WC522N map on a stock engine (catless up-pipe).

 

I was on the COBB Stage 1 map for several years and still managed to cook 3 exhaust valves.

 

No other alterations needed, just zero out the table and enjoy a less lean ride in boost ride .

 

I'm not positive on if Cobb disables this delay, they should, but maybe you had an older tune that didn't?

 

Also make sure your timing compensation tables are zeroed out too!

[ssbtech]

It was an older tune on the V1 Access Port.

 

I have no idea how to grab those two tables, edit them then re-load them to the car. Can that be done with RomRaider? Can I edit them directly without having to flash the entire ROM?

 

Somehow my Outback has the Legacy ROM on it. I think it was from when I first had the AP it was a Legacy GT model, then when the dealer re-flashed it just auto-detected it as a Legacy.

[covertrussian]

It was an older tune on the V1 Access Port.

 

I have no idea how to grab those two tables, edit them then re-load them to the car. Can that be done with RomRaider? Can I edit them directly without having to flash the entire ROM?

 

Somehow my Outback has the Legacy ROM on it. I think it was from when I first had the AP it was a Legacy GT model, then when the dealer re-flashed it just auto-detected it as a Legacy.

 

That could be why, V1 is pretty old. I do all of my tune editing in RomRaider and ECUFlash. Then I reflash the ecu with ECUFlash, you have to do entire ROM, no way to flash to RAM sadly.

 

The actual tune tables are pretty similar between LGT and OBXT, it's probably the ECU code that's really different.

 

Not sure about V1, but if you have a hex or bin file you can probably modify it in Romraider then flash it with V1

[ssbtech]

My V1 is useless now. Dealer flashed the ECU without me unmarrying it first.

 

I don't think I should touch the maps. I can see myself bricking it in short order.

 

EDIT: Makes you wonder why nobody has grilled SOA about this. Such a simple thing that was corrected in future models but never applied to older models that has ultimately cost customers thousands in repairs.

Edited September 17, 2014 by ssbtech

[covertrussian]

That is a shame, time to get a Tactrix cable ;-). Reflashing with a Tactrix cable is easy, not as easy as Cobb, but still easy.

 

As for why nobody grilled SOA, is because EPA. Even newer cars still have the closed loop to open loop delay, it's done for emissions reasons sadly. JDM tunes don't have this delay.

[ssbtech]

I was paranoid flashing with my V1. After 20 minutes into the flash I got anxious, after 40 minutes I was wondering what the hell was taking so long, after 43 minutes I was very relieved.

 

New APs or Tactrix flashing doesn't take that long, does it?

[kzr750r1]

Speaking from the AP side. No. Just a few min.

[ScottFW]

Never timed it but Tactrix flashing takes just a couple-few minutes. Not lightning fast, but not ridiculously slow either.

[covertrussian]

About 2 minutes total with Tactrix. One for test write one for actual write. But it really depends on how many bits you changed. Upgrading to major ROM version took like 5 min.

[ssbtech]

I just looked at the size of the old COBB stage 1 map I used - 4.5KB. The A2WC522N map I downloaded from RomRaider is 1.0MB.

 

Was the V1 AP really that slow or is something else wonky? I know when the dealer flashed it with the stock A2WC522N map it took quite a while too. I certainly don't want to play around with a wonky ECM.

[covertrussian]

That's because Cobb maps are not full maps, they are just table changes, it then combines those table changes with the real map and flashes the full thing to the ECU.

 

I think the issue might be with dealer flashing over a cobb locked ecu. Maybe try finding someone local with a Tactrix cable and see if they can flash a map faster?

[ssbtech]

I haven't tried to flash it since the dealer flashed it. The very first Cobb Stg1 map I did took nearly 40 mins.

 

I'm thinking it's just the slow serial interface on the V1AP.

 

I'm on the fence about getting another AP.

[covertrussian]

Could be yeah. Depends on which route you plan on going. If you want just a basic STG2 tune then sure, but if you want something better your better off just getting the Tactrix Cable and getting one of the forum vendors to tune it for you. If your planing on staying STG0/1 then it's not worth bothering with AP honestly.

[ssbtech]

I was planning on stage 1.

 

The problem with an e-tune is there's nowhere here to get it to the top of 3rd gear for the logs.

 

I'm also a little worried about botching something up with the PC/Tactrix. The AP seems safer.

[covertrussian]

I hear ya, what about highway entrance ramps? I personally do just about all of my logs in 2nd gear though, I live in the mountains so it's hard to find a long straight road, plus cops in VA are not forgiving for speeding.

[ssbtech]

What's the speed at the top of 3rd gear?

 

Speed limit here is 90km/hr, an "excessive speed" ticket is 130km/hr and above (40 km/hr over the limit) and nets you an immediate 7 day impound.

 

2nd gear would be OK, but I've been told they should all be done in 3rd.

[covertrussian]

90mph = 144km/hr. 90mph + will lend you a $1500 fine, criminal record, and a day in jail per mph over 90 here in Virginia. Sounds like Canada and Virginia were getting drunk together when writing the laws.

[covertrussian]

Since I got new rims, finally got around to using one of the old rims with a decent tire as a full sized spare. It plops right in and you can even tighten it down.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Trunk/20140912_092849.jpg~original

 

Sadly the tray wont fit anymore, and the lid is not necessarily the sturdiest, thus it can bend easily without some support. Adding a bunch of emergency items kind of helps with that.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Trunk/20140912_093504.jpg~original

 

Also got another Grimm Speed pulley for my FXT a while back. Finally got around to installing it on the Forrester, but first I figured the red one fits better with the red legacy. Don't need anything that stands out on the Forester since it's wife's car .

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/Crank/CIMG1580.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/Crank/CIMG1582.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Pulleys/Crank/CIMG1583.jpg~original

[covertrussian]

Lower coolant crosspipe is close to the exhaust and is fairly exposed to the atmosphere, because of that it loves to rust (just like the heat shields). If left untreated eventually it will start leaking coolant and could leave you stranded.

 

Bought a new crosspipe (Part # 21328AA011) and used some high heat paint to cover up the crappy oem paint (I would suggest using exhaust paint, I was all out so just stuck to 500*F paint).

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Cooling/Crosspipe/CIMG1543.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Cooling/Crosspipe/CIMG1544.jpg~original

 

Replacing it is actually fairly easy with minimal coolant loss. Here is the stock 100k mile one:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Cooling/Crosspipe/CIMG1563.jpg~original

 

Unbolt the bracket

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Cooling/Crosspipe/CIMG1567.jpg~original

 

Remove clamps, I moved them on the rubber elbow so that they wouldn't fall out when you remove the crosspipe, makes for a faster replacement.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Cooling/Crosspipe/CIMG1569.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Cooling/Crosspipe/CIMG1571.jpg~original

 

New one is in place with minimal coolant loss, didn't even need to top off reservoir tank.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Cooling/Crosspipe/CIMG1578.jpg~original

 

Another shot of the old one:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Cooling/Crosspipe/CIMG1579.jpg~original