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Koni Yellow Sport Shocks - 2010+ Legacy Fitment


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You could probably do it by feel with everything on the car, just pull the wheel and compress the spring to the point where you can turn the seat by hand. I think you should either be able to see or feel those two holes with the strut installed, too.
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One quick thing too....

After the cut, I inserted the new shock into the sleeve, but shock didn't reach the bottom of the sleeve. It had a quarter inch left to move down.

That's no good. The inside measurement should be no more than 12", and closer to 11-7/8", otherwise the fluted section at the top of the insert will stop the progress of the insert going into the donor. The insert MUST be seated on the bottom of the donor. Thus is why I use a bench mounted belt sander after the cut to bring the measurement to where it is supposed to be for proper insert installation.

 

You need to take the insert out and shorten the donor.

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One quick thing too....

After the cut, I inserted the new shock into the sleeve, but shock didn't reach the bottom of the sleeve. It had a quarter inch left to move down.

 

That's before you sucked it in with the bolt through the bottom, or after? If that's before, you should be in good shape, I don't think the little nubs on the side of the tube are that long.

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That taper at the top will keep the insert from bottoming out in the donor if the donor is too long. The nubs should be about 1/4" down in the donor. You can see that they deform the donor tube when they get sucked in.

 

Also, if the inside edge of the donor is not completely smooth and de-burred, it will compromise the proper seating of the insert.

 

d5401985283d0f47e5a8e8dc6e336309.jpg

Edited by GTEASER
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That's before you sucked it in with the bolt through the bottom, or after? If that's before, you should be in good shape, I don't think the little nubs on the side of the tube are that long.

 

 

That was before I had the bolt tightened.

 

Gteaser, I had sanded down the edges so it could go in smoothly. The nubs on the new shocks just have a good trip going into the donors.

 

Today I am.going to take them both out and retorque and readjust the sitting on the driver side. What I did notice, the shock wasn't sitting in the top shock cap's perch. It was a bit off by a half inch.

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So both spring caps were off. Driver was off 90 degrees clockwaise and the passenger was off 60 degrees counter clockwise. The rub was the cap rubbing the strut tower. Used two sets of spring compressors and readjusted the position. Retorque and we are all good.
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Y'know, that sounds almost identical to where mine were, same sides and everything. seems like 60 degrees is close enough for jazz, but 90 and up and you start getting angry sounds. Good to hear that it wasn't an issue with how long the strut was cut, though.
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I’ve got a couple setup questions. I’ve got a 2012 Outback with 85000 miles on it that I’d really like to bring down to stock legacy height when I replace the struts this spring. Here’s what I’m thinking I need to be able to drop the old and install the new, please correct me if I’m wrong:

2010-2014 Legacy OE front struts

2013-14 Legacy/Outback front Springs

KYB or whiteline strut tops

 

koni 8610-1055 rear struts

2013-14 Outback rear Springs

KYB strut tops

 

 

First question... I’m still looking for stock 2010-12 Legacy front struts correct? As I understand it the spring perch is a little lower and/or the lower mount is lower which is where the drop comes from, and it should still clear my stock outback tires... yes?

 

Second, at this point which Koni front inserts am I looking for? 1553’s or 1447’s?

 

Third, Springs. As I understand it, 2013+ front and rear springs are stiffer correct? Going by the part numbers (I don’t have them in front of me at the moment) Legacy and outback springs are the same year for year but I’d want the later springs if I wanted a stiffer setup yes?

 

Fourth - alignments. Do I need the rear Legacy LCA? What about the whiteline front strut mounts?

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I’ve got a couple setup questions. I’ve got a 2012 Outback with 85000 miles on it that I’d really like to bring down to stock legacy height when I replace the struts this spring. Here’s what I’m thinking I need to be able to drop the old and install the new, please correct me if I’m wrong:

2010-2014 Legacy OE front struts

2013-14 Legacy/Outback front Springs

KYB or whiteline strut tops

 

koni 8610-1055 rear struts

2013-14 Outback rear Springs

KYB strut tops

 

 

First question... I’m still looking for stock 2010-12 Legacy front struts correct? As I understand it the spring perch is a little lower and/or the lower mount is lower which is where the drop comes from, and it should still clear my stock outback tires... yes?

 

Second, at this point which Koni front inserts am I looking for? 1553’s or 1447’s?

 

Third, Springs. As I understand it, 2013+ front and rear springs are stiffer correct? Going by the part numbers (I don’t have them in front of me at the moment) Legacy and outback springs are the same year for year but I’d want the later springs if I wanted a stiffer setup yes?

 

Fourth - alignments. Do I need the rear Legacy LCA? What about the whiteline front strut mounts?

 

You should start a new thread but I think there is more to it as I think the Outbacks lift comes from more than the struts and springs. Like dropped subframes and different suspension arms.

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  • 2 months later...
Finally got around to finishing my Konis. I used wrx front struts and 1447 konis. I had the the rears machined to match the fronts. I paired them with H&R springs for the 3.6. New Konig 18x9 +42mm with a 5mm spacer and New Firestone Firehawk 255/40r18 and no fitment issues other then a slight fender rub on large dips. This has been the best ride this legacyGT has ever had!!
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  • 3 weeks later...
Bumping this to share my experience with the Konis in the relevant thread. My GOD are they incredible. The ride and handling are now that of a high end sports sedan, as it always should've been from the factory. As GTeaser often told me I would, I can't believe I waited this long to get them on the car. 1000% different machine with this setup. Paired with the Eibachs, the ride is excellent and comfortable, but planted enough to provide direct and responsive handling, with an subtle OEM-ish drop that won't have you scrapping any speed bumps. Hate to say it but I'm actually already considering switching to the H&R's for the touch of extra ride height drop, but I'll ride with the Eibachs for a bit and see if they settle further. :lol: Either way, from a livability, longevity, comfort, adjustability, and flexibility standpoint, there is far and away no better setup for this car.

IMG_2232.thumb.JPG.addea84e0f7be93e4aec1a1cba2290b8.JPG

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