nads

I get this too and that F&%$ing sun glass holder rattles like hell.

If you do headers plan to get tuned and yes to more power. If you just want a noise change get a catback for a GT.

More cores can help and hinder by blocking air flow through the fins, typically that's 3 and 4 row stuff. Have you pressure washed (or just washed out) the radiator fins? My friends Dodge 2500 Cummins was overheating and thats what made it go away. Airflow is key. I'd drop the skid plate and see if it allow more flow out the bottom.

How much does your skid plate block off? Your engine bay is a low pressure zone when in motion, as air enters the nose/hood scoop it need a place to exhaust the convection cooling of the radiator, engine, condenser, etc. It has to exit at another low pressure zone, so under the car or out the cowl at the windshield. Are your fans kicking on?

Did you do a continuity check of the pins on both switches to see if the old one had a cross connection or was different somehow? Something is drawing a lot of current to do that.

Looking at that Deck, it should be a drop in. Scrolling down it comes with a bunch of harnesses. Looks like they have a Q&A on that page, might ask them.

My fix this morning wouldn't work. Damn Spotify wouldn't connect on my Pioneer deck so I could crank some Falco. Been down the chasing mystery noises path on other cars. At this point unless something falls off, becomes something I can identify or increasing audible I'm ignoring it. Mine is quiet until I drive on a washboard type road, then it's clap clap clap. My fix, I stoped driving on that road.

I've noticed lately a "clunky" sound over minor-ly rough roads at slow speeds. It sounds like a plastic on plastic slapping sound. More of a clap clap clap sound. No noise over speed bumps and no binding. All stock and presumed untouched 62k mile suspension too.

Sell it. Not worth the noise and/or hassle to tune. Best 3.6r mods for the money to make good gains are in this order: -Basic maintenance -Suspension: 26mm Front bar, 13-14 Springs and dampers, Whileline 22m rear bar as a basic daily package, go wild from there. -Tune -Raptor Headers, high flow cats & Y-pipe and a Tune -Raptor supercharger, headers, high flow cats & Y-pipe and a Tune -Raptor supercharger, headers, high flow cats & Y-pipe, cat back and a Tune -Custom build spending a ton of cash to have a hot 3.6r. See XRT for a tune.

Be cautious as there are non-LED fogs too for the 15-up Mustang.

You should start a new thread but I think there is more to it as I think the Outbacks lift comes from more than the struts and springs. Like dropped subframes and different suspension arms.

Brake boosters can cause a vacuum leaks too. Just went through this with my dad's efi 5.0 swap in to an 82' GT. We replaced everything from the ECU to any and everything that can effect the idle. We'd think we got it and it would come back. The other day he drove up and I was standing outside and as soon as he hit the brakes the idle would surge, let of the brake and it would smooth out. Bad Booster. Got the 26mm bushing yesterday. Hopefully will install them over Christmas shutdown.

Bought. Merry Christmas to me. Thanks!!!

Nice work. What is the pipe O.D.? Could you take some finished dimensions, like width between pipes, over all length, etc? Did the collector flanges on the head line up with Y-pipe? Can't wait to see it installed!

Very nice indeed! So what does your buddy need to get me a set? Since I now have a 22mm rear bar, I'm thinking this is the next weak link (for me anyway). I bought a universal set of 26mm busing and mounts from Prothane, but haven't had a chance to R&D them in yet. I know about the hump under the factory bushing and had a few ideas to get around that but a drop in bushing would be easier by far. Dare I request a group buy?

TRS is having its usual Black Friday sale. https://www.theretrofitsource.com/

I ran Yokohama's from Discount tire last season through some shitty snow and slush we had. Did fine, but I don't drive like the California transplants who think their Audi or Subaru can go 60 on the ice and snow with 20" summer tires, because AWD.

Just when you think you're out of the woods....

Agreed, and also form a green house gas stand point not having the transience associated with rpm fluctuation from shifting helps with control of emissions in a huge way. But, every efficient power transmission device I've seen is also weak, but that's what makes them efficient, they are at their threshold. On paper CVT sounds great, in application it has not been reliable, even in non-performance applications.

CVT was the worst thing Subaru did. There is such an extensive history of fail with that design I'm surprised they used it. I bet its got in a few years just like all the others who adopted it and ran from that sinking ship.

For oil consumption, have you checked or replaced the PCV valve? Did it increase with the tune? Like I told the guy who bought my MS6, if you want stock reliability, keep it stock. Modifying comes with a trade off.

What air filter are you running? With paper, it shouldn't get dirty to the point of these kinds of issues. Be sure you get the filter in and sealed, that damn air box is one of the worst I've seen for servicing so I could see how things could get misaligned.

Damn I'll clean it for $40 and still feel like I'm ripping you off...I wouldn't replace it. Unless its damaged there isn't any gain. I'd be surprised if there wasn't misfire codes with a dirty MAF.

Yes. If the pump slows down via belt slip then your going to loose pressure and that will make the rack do what you see it doing, that and air in the system. I say your post on the other noise, I think you need to bleed the system more. Are you bleeding it with the cap off? There is only one place for air to escape and that's out the reservoir. Also, as FLlegacy pointed out, worn out suspension components put undue stress on the system. So check it all out.

Yes, something with less deflection than stock.