Koni Yellow Sport Shocks - 2010+ Legacy Fitment

[Val Demar]

Yes the 13-14 springs are stiffer than the 2010-12 springs

So they would be the springs to get even with the Konis if I wanted to keep the same ride height?

[GTEASER]

So they would be the springs to get even with the Konis if I wanted to keep the same ride height?

Yup. But I would recommend finding the 1453 inserts versus the 1/4" shorter 1447. You may have to get them directly from Koni.

[Zee199969]

So they would be the springs to get even with the Konis if I wanted to keep the same ride height?

 

The 2013-14 springs are always the choice vs the 2010-12 ones. The pre-facelift springs were so squishy that it made our cars ride like boats.

[TwoTone]

I wonder how much of the perceived improvement was simply due to going from used tired shocks to new. I'm still debating so the advice is much appreciated.

 

Well it wasn't going from used old tired shock to new. The Legacy drove like an old caddie from day one. As much as I liked everything thing else, the ride sucked.

 

So my impression has isn't clouded by that. Somewhere I've said I wish this was the first thing we did to the car when we got it home.

[TwoTone]

The 2013-14 springs are always the choice vs the 2010-12 ones. The pre-facelift springs were so squishy that it made our cars ride like boats.

 

I keep reading this, but I'll be blunt- is anyone that saying this actually tried the inserts with the stock springs or just making assumptions.

[FLlegacy]

I keep reading this, but I'll be blunt- is anyone that saying this actually tried the inserts with the stock springs or just making assumptions.

I think we can call it an educated assumption, lol. But seriously for the price why not go with what is known to work well. Because it's a lot of work to take the struts and shocks apart to change the springs.

 

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[Val Demar]

Yup. But I would recommend finding the 1453 inserts versus the 1/4" shorter 1447. You may have to get them directly from Koni.

Interesting, I think I only saw the 1447s on the Konis website listed for my car.

[Val Demar]

Well it wasn't going from used old tired shock to new. The Legacy drove like an old caddie from day one. As much as I liked everything thing else, the ride sucked.

 

So my impression has isn't clouded by that. Somewhere I've said I wish this was the first thing we did to the car when we got it home.

Will it be correct to say the Konis is just a firmer ride then?

[Val Demar]

The 2013-14 springs are always the choice vs the 2010-12 ones. The pre-facelift springs were so squishy that it made our cars ride like boats.

I do get that feeling, especially at freeway speeds, but there are probably other things in the suspension I need to address given the age at the car.

[dgoodhue]

I keep reading this, but I'll be blunt- is anyone that saying this actually tried the inserts with the stock springs or just making assumptions.

 

I put on some KYB replacement struts with the original stock springs on my '12 2.5i before I sold it. It improved the highway wander, but it still was disconnected handling car because of the springs.

 

I would recommend the bare minimum of KYB & 13/14 springs for GT and 3.6R models. I had both KYB and Koni's struts with Eibach springs. I very much preferred the Koni's over the KYB's.

Edited October 23, 2017 by dgoodhue

[EuroVWGTi]

I keep reading this, but I'll be blunt- is anyone that saying this actually tried the inserts with the stock springs or just making assumptions.

 

I am doing that setup next weekend on my 2011. I already did the 1453 rears with the 2013-2014 springs. World of a difference. I and going to do the same for the front with the inserts.

[GTEASER]

I am doing that setup next weekend on my 2011. I already did the 1453 rears with the 2013-2014 springs. World of a difference. I and going to do the same for the front with the inserts.

Uh, the 1453s are front inserts. The rear shocks are 8010-1055S.

[TwoTone]

I am doing that setup next weekend on my 2011. I already did the 1453 rears with the 2013-2014 springs. World of a difference. I and going to do the same for the front with the inserts.

 

My only point was unless you've tried it with the stock springs, you don't know how much of the difference is the Koni's vs the springs.

 

I kept reading you need to do the 13-14 springs, personally glad I didn't waste the money. The inserts were enough for me since it's a daily driver.

[EuroVWGTi]

Oops that is what I meant to say. 1055s rears

[EuroVWGTi]

My only point was unless you've tried it with the stock springs, you don't know how much of the difference is the Koni's vs the springs.

 

I kept reading you need to do the 13-14 springs, personally glad I didn't waste the money. The inserts were enough for me since it's a daily driver.

 

True, but I honestly think the shocks prematurely wore out because the 2010-12 springs were too weak.

[dgoodhue]

My only point was unless you've tried it with the stock springs, you don't know how much of the difference is the Koni's vs the springs.

 

I kept reading you need to do the 13-14 springs, personally glad I didn't waste the money. The inserts were enough for me since it's a daily driver.

 

The 13/14 spring are only ~$110. The Koni inserts are ~$700. For Koni's that doesn't include the cost of donor struts if you want to do them in advance, alignment or labor. It seems like a small cost given the rest of expense, even as DIYer.

 

I haven't tried the stock springs with Koni, but I didn't like the stock springs with the OEM or the KYB even though the KYB did improve the stability of the car. I would imagine the Koni are little better given my experience with Koni and KYB on Eibach springs, but it seems like Koni just won't be able to compensate for the short coming of the stock springs.

 

For low cost repair it seems that KYB with the stock springs would be a better choice or if one want to tighten up the suspension KYB and 13/14 springs. 13/14 spring and KYB are still going to be less than half the cost of Koni's alone. Obviously if you are happy with suspension that is what count, but it does seem like overkill to a nice set of dampeners with such a soft spring.

 

IMO the OEM springs do not belong on the GT in any instance. The GT builds too much speed for those springs. They are adequate for a 2.5i owner daily driver who wants a soft ride. (I owned a '12 2.5i for 5 years and 80k miles, so I am not just bashing the 2.5i)

 

True, but I honestly think the shocks prematurely wore out because the 2010-12 springs were too weak.

 

I agree that the soft spring may contribute to wear them out. My OEM '12 struts weren't leaking but they were cupping my summer tires at little over 60k miles. I also read that lowering springs also wear out the OEM struts pretty quickly as well.

[linksusmaximus]

Fronts in. Lovely improvement.

 

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[GTEASER]

^^ H&R springs?

 

Edit: NVM, I see the part number now. Good choice!

[EuroVWGTi]

Finally did the fronts. The most pain in the ass part was getting the new spings compressed. Not enough coils for my small compressor kit to squeeze. I ended up having a shop do that portion for me. After an hour trying, I didn't want to waste even more time.

[EuroVWGTi]

[quote

 

I agree that the soft spring may contribute to wear them out. My OEM '12 struts weren't leaking but they were cupping my summer tires at little over 60k miles. I also read that lowering springs also wear out the OEM struts pretty quickly as well.

 

Btw, when I took apart the front struts assembly, I didn't even have to compress the springs to take it it apart. As soon as the the top bolt came off, the spring didn't even pop up.

[EuroVWGTi]

Ok, here is my concern......

 

At slow speed turning left at low speed or turning left stationary, I hear the spring move a little bit. Turing right it is ok.

When driving at regular speeds, no movement noise from the spring. This is only happening to the driver side. Does the tower need to be tightened more?

[GTEASER]

Ok, here is my concern......

 

At slow speed turning left at low speed or turning left stationary, I hear the spring move a little bit. Turing right it is ok.

When driving at regular speeds, no movement noise from the spring. This is only happening to the driver side. Does the tower need to be tightened more?

 

Many of us have a little pop on the drivers side. Turn the spring a little in the perch to get the end of it farther away from the end of the perch. Don't over-tighten the top hat bolts.

[cww516]

There should be 2 small holes in the upper spring seat (maybe 1/4" diameter or so) about 60 degrees apart, and you want those to be oriented toward the outside of the car. I just tossed everything back together without knowing that and got lucky on the passenger's side, but I had the same binding you're noticing on the driver's side. Compressed the springs, turned the seats, no more problems. Edited October 30, 2017 by cww516

[GTEASER]

There should be 2 small holes in the top hat (maybe 1/4" diameter or so) about 60 degrees apart, and you want those to be oriented toward the outside of the car. I just tossed everything back together without knowing that and got lucky on the passenger's side, but I had the same binding you're noticing on the driver's side. Compressed the springs, turned the top hats, no more problems.

Not the tophats, you must mean the upper spring seat.

[EuroVWGTi]

I won't be able to do this till the weekend, would it be a problem if I don't do it till then?