Koni Yellow Sport Shocks - 2010+ Legacy Fitment

[ahkenaden]

Gotcha, thanks Teaser.

[ahkenaden]

*post committed seppuku* Edited August 26, 2017 by ahkenaden
Failed to provide anything useful :(

[GTEASER]

So since its been proven that WRX full shocks will work, here's some more fuel for the fire...

 

In researching WRXWhit's parts, I ran across this press brief stating that there was a complete kit available for the 08-14 WRX's. Being a "I'm to lazy to cut a strut" kinda guy, I figured this would solve a bunch of issues at once, so I inquired to Koni about the kits availability. Here is the convoluted reply:

 

 

GTeaser, you likely have better resources than I do given the amount of info you've provided. Do you have anyone who can confirm these kits exist? (or anyone else for that matter) Google seems to come up mostly vaporware on them.

This is exactly why I didn't want a whole bunch of people contacting Koni. Not everyone there know 100% what is going on. This information is just muddying the water. My contact is the North American Product Manager at Koni. He has been, and will continue to keep me apprised of their development and availability for these . Please, let's just keep it to one single point of contact to avoid confusion.

 

If you want to buy 1453 or 1447 inserts, and send me some stock struts, I will be happy to build some for you as I have for almost a dozen members here. Using our stock housings is still the best option because of our unique speed sensor mounting on the side of the strut.

[ahkenaden]

Considering the original combo kit they offered was just the inserts anyway, and everything else in that e-mail was information that can essentially be found elsewhere in this exact thread, what exactly is muddy? Perhaps its my fault for calling his reply convoluted... I fail to see how more info is worse.

[GTEASER]

Considering the original combo kit they offered was just the inserts anyway, and everything else in that e-mail was information that can essentially be found elsewhere in this exact thread, what exactly is muddy? Perhaps its my fault for calling his reply convoluted... I fail to see how more info is worse.

 

Because you were asking about, and he was telling you about, the "Koni kit" which includes Eibach springs. You can't use the WRX Eibach springs on our cars. You need WRX shocks, and Legacy specific springs. Therefore, the info that he spewed out was totally impertinent to our use of Koni shocks on the Legacy platform.

[ahkenaden]

Fair enough, feel free to moderate away.

[PSUice944]

Going through 64 pages on the app at work is a bit much…

 

Has anyone had one of these go south? I bought mine put together from a fellow Lister and my shop is telling me that the front right is leaking that's causing the rattle I hear over some bumps.

 

Do I need to get new donor struts? Or can these be pulled out to replace/refurbish? I wonder if I should buy a pair and replace them both? Thoughts?

 

 

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[GTEASER]

Going through 64 pages on the app at work is a bit much…

 

Has anyone had one of these go south? I bought mine put together from a fellow Lister and my shop is telling me that the front right is leaking that's causing the rattle I hear over some bumps.

 

Do I need to get new donor struts? Or can these be pulled out to replace/refurbish? I wonder if I should buy a pair and replace them both? Thoughts?

 

 

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All you need to do is replace the insert.

[ibr_adam09]

Silly thought, but maybe the insert's bumps are not squeezed into inside the strut. That'll cause a rattle. (if that's the case, you need another re-cut a strut with the right height and reinsert).

 

Ohh, the shop said its leaking, nvm.

[DugsSin]

If you want replacement fronts. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/ct-koni-fronts-263444.html

[EuroVWGTi]

not sure if you guys will be interested....https://www.amazon.com/Koni-8610-1453Sport-Subaru-Impreza/dp/B009EPQLDC

[Wild Bill]

The fronts donors after they are cut and deburred (the cut edge must be totally smooth), measured from the inside bottom of the donor to the top of the tube (cut end), MUST BE between 11-7/8" and 12". Any longer and the Koni will not go all the way in, any shorter and the nubs on the top of the Koni will not seat into the strut tube entirely.

 

Do not bang on the top of the Koni to get it started in the tube, banging will cause it to leak.

 

 

So nobody around around here that is open on a weekend has longer M12x1.5 metric bolts to suck the insert into the donor.

 

Instead of banging with a BFH, would a crude press made out of a bottle jack be a suitable method of seating the insert far enough for the supplied bolt to get a bite? I wasn't sure if it was the banging or the pressure on that end of the tube that would cause the leak GTeaser is speaking of.

 

 

 

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[cww516]

I'm thinking that hitting the end of the shaft is what would cause the leak, so you may be okay pressing it in, as long as you're pushing on the body of the insert and not the shaft. You could also try holding the whole works in one hand and hitting the bottom with a rubber mallet, that may drift it in far enough to grab with the included bolt.

[GTEASER]

I would use the longer bolt method. It takes quite a bit of pressure to get the nubs to deform the thickness of the donors tube walls. You should have gotten the bolts,before hand, that's why it's in my write up. Duh! Lol!

 

It was banging on the cap on the top of the body, not the shaft, that was causing leaks. Koni specifically says,in the instructions not to put pressure on the body cap.

Edited September 24, 2017 by GTEASER

[FLlegacy]

I am fairly certain I got mine at Home depot, or maybe the small hardware store by my house...crap I think it was the little hardware store. They carry a plethora of odd sized bolts. Maybe you have an ace hardware close by.

[dgoodhue]

I am pretty sure I bought mine at Home Depot. Make sure to get some washers as well.

[Wild Bill]

Yes I know that I should have gotten them before hand. It was kind of a spur of the weekend thing on Friday. I thought I'd have to take a kid to soccer practice and my wife volunteered since my week was so busy. So with nothing else going on till Sunday the car was well underway Fri night. Figured I could get the bolts when I needed them.

 

Got the inserts in. Amazing how much weight it took. Used my floor jack and my 3+ ton tractor to do it. It would lift the front end up off the ground. Note: I Just used the weight of the tractor for resistance. I did not use its hydraulics.

 

 

 

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[GTEASER]

Kudos on the install ingenuity, I hope it works out. Not something I would have gambled on with $350 in Konis. Especially when $2.00 in longer bolts would have ensured an issue free installation.

[DugsSin]

They are not a common bolt. This place has them https://www.belmetric.com/12x15-fine-c-506_510_406/bh12x15x35fylw-hex-bolt-yellow-zinc-109-full-p-9081.html and so much more.

 

....... and DON"T forget the spacer under the strut mount

Edited September 24, 2017 by DugsSin

[cww516]

...or that top hat orientation actually matters.

 

 

Also, I found my longer bolt at Menards- most big-box stores have a very limited selection of metric hardware, and generally, smaller stores will have the same selection. They typically get their bin-fill hardware supplied by the same company (Hillman is a big one), so you should usually be able to find what you need pretty much anywhere that's open. Fastenal is another good option, if you have one within driving distance. They tend to have a few more options on the shelf, and if you're willing to pay for it, they can order just about anything.

[Wild Bill]

I did install the spacers, and I believe that I got the orientation correct.

The car rides is a lot tighter now that's for sure. Loving it!

 

I found M12x1.25 thread and M12x1.75 last night but no M12x1.5

I'm positive I would have been able to find one on Monday but apparently not on a Saturday night. Should have gotten them months ago and let them sit around with the inserts.

 

Now that I'm done my only questions are:

1- I did not use the plastic washer on the front struts as depicted since only one insert came with one. Hoping that's not a bad thing.

2- Rear dust covers don't really stay up. Will they get wedged up in there on their own after I hit enough big bumps or do I need to do something?

3-How long should I wait to get an alignment? (Koni Yellow's & Eibach's went on). The car feels good, does not pull or anything. Right now I am using up my summers which will be replaced in the spring after my winters come off. So I really don't care what happens to the current tires, as long as they last another month or so.

[FLlegacy]

I still haven't gotten an alignment, but my car rides straight, and tires are not wearing anywhere funny. They still look practically new. I would recommend however to at least get it checked. I am waiting to get my strut tops installed to get the alignment.

[cww516]

If you had the top hats off-kilter, you'd get a binding sound and feel similar to what you'd experience if you left the conical washers out. Ask me how I know...

 

1) Probably not a bad thing- I don't remember if I had two or not, but I didn't see them doing much of anything.

2) I actually ended up cutting down my stock bumpstops to match the lengths of the Eibach ones because the new ones wouldn't hold the dust covers up.

3) I'm not really qualified to give an answer, considering I put it off for 3 months. A couple weeks or maybe 100 miles should be plenty of time, though.

[GTEASER]

I did install the spacers, and I believe that I got the orientation correct.

The car rides is a lot tighter now that's for sure. Loving it!

 

I found M12x1.25 thread and M12x1.75 last night but no M12x1.5

I'm positive I would have been able to find one on Monday but apparently not on a Saturday night. Should have gotten them months ago and let them sit around with the inserts.

 

Now that I'm done my only questions are:

1- I did not use the plastic washer on the front struts as depicted since only one insert came with one. Hoping that's not a bad thing.

2- Rear dust covers don't really stay up. Will they get wedged up in there on their own after I hit enough big bumps or do I need to do something?

3-How long should I wait to get an alignment? (Koni Yellow's & Eibach's went on). The car feels good, does not pull or anything. Right now I am using up my summers which will be replaced in the spring after my winters come off. So I really don't care what happens to the current tires, as long as they last another month or so.

1) I have never used them. You're good.

 

2) The bump stops should hold them up, also I think the shoulder on the shock rod holds them up.

 

3) You'll go thru your winter tires fast if your alignment is off. Also, on my lowered Fozz, I have noticed that small toe in or toe out anomalies have a huge impact how the car enters a corner when the suspension loads up. I would wait 1000 miles to let the springs settle and then get an alignment with 0 toe in the rear and just a hair toe in up front. Maybe -1* of camber up front.

[Wild Bill]

Thanks folks, I'm pretty happy with how it feels right now. If not before, I'll definitely get it aligned when I put the winters on.

 

 

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