Ares3985

Anyone know if there are any legacy only meets or clubs In the New Jersey area? I know there aren’t many of us. I’ve only seen one GT since I got mine. Would be cool to do some cruising with a few others. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I just finalized mine today. 9 revisions. Took a little over a month. I used iaTUNING. If anyone is going to etune I recommend getting a wideband. He said my numbers were all over the place according to my sensors but after putting in the wideband he was able to finish it off rather quickly. I don’t see how someone would etune a daily driver. It just takes too long. Luckily mine sits in the garage. I was afraid to drive the car anywhere until he gave me the final ok Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think it’s both sides. It’s just weird that it all started after my alignment and new parts. I’m also the type to want to inspect but I do not have a banding tool. Can I just use hose clamps? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No they aren’t torn. Which makes me wonder how they all of a sudden started making this noise. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I put coilovers in today and while I was in there I was rocking the cv in out and it is popping on the inside. Do you think I can get away with cleaning it up and regreasing it? It just started doing it so it might not be too far gone. If yes, what type of grease should I use. I have some full synthetic cv grease on hand. Read that you need to use a compatible grease but I can’t find what subaru uses to know if it’s ok to put in there Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well put it up on jack stands and jacked each tire. I got something to pop twice. Then it didn’t do it again. Must have jacked it up and down 50 more times. Couldn’t get it to do it again. While I was under there I threw in the poly sway bar bushings front and rear. Front were worn but not cracked at all. Rear looked pretty good. Don’t think it’s gonna solve the problem but might stiffen things up a little. Hopefully I can take the car out tomorrow for a drive and see if anything has changed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I know it’s vague. Asking for advice on sounds is tricky just figured I would get some guesses here. It’s def a clunky sound that I can feel. I suggested inner tie rods because they were recently done and I never had the clunk until 50 miles after I did all of it and had it aligned. And it almost sounds like it’s coming from where they connect. That’s why I was thinking maybe they didn’t grease them enough from the factory. Still haven’t figured out a way to produce the sound without the car moving and hitting a bump. Engine and tranny mounts are def secure. Maybe I can get the car on jack stands and then jack each tire individually and get something to pop. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wouldnt a cv be rotational noise though? The popping seems to be on both sides. Towards the center of the car. And is more likely to occur when hitting a bump. It might not even be caused by the turning. Might be coincidental that possibly I’m hitting a small bump as I’m turning because it happens more often over a bump. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh yeah forgot to mention. Duh. Did lower control arms too with all new bushings Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Didn’t inspect them but actually have a new set of polys front and rear on my workbench Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I recently replaced my inner and outer tie rods. I also replaced my sway bar endlinks. The tie rod ends came filled with grease and the sway bar endlinks had to be filled via zerk fittings. I filled those up. The inner tie rods had a light amount of green grease. So after doing all this I got an alignment. Everything was good for about 50 miles. Now I have an intermittent popping noise. Sometimes when I turn it does it but sometimes it doesn’t. It also sometimes does it when going over a bump. It sort of feels like it is more towards the center of the car. Which leads me to believe it’s the inner tie rods. I tried to jack it up and then lower it onto the wheels to reproduce the sound but it will only do it when the car is in motion. For the life of me I can’t figure out where it is. Should I removed the boots from the tie rod and put a decent amount of heavy suspension grease In there and pull the boot back over? I really don’t know what else could be making this popping. I just don’t want to put a bunch of grease in there if it isn’t supposed to be. I know asking for tips on fixing a sound is pretty vague but any suggestions or guesses would be helpful. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Why are you chasing this exhaust leak with your nose? Just do what I suggested and you’ll find all your leaks in 5 min. And you won’t get them tight if you don’t start from the header and work your way back. Tighten everything evenly. Little on one side then a little on the other until tight and torque to spec. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How long did your etune take and how many revisions? Wanna see what average is. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bought new. For $41 had to. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking for a set of front calipers. Oem or better. Pricing new ones online and figured I’d see if anyone had some decent ones laying around. BOUGHT NEW

Might need to send that thread to the tuner lol. Well see what happens after he reads the new logs Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I got like 62-63 at 19lbs of boost. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So do you think it isn’t actually going lean? The readings are just messed up? I sent 4 new wot short pulls to the tuner along with telling him I tested the fuel pressure and replaced my failed o2. Smoke tested and nothing. So I’m guessing next he’s going to tell me to get a wideband. If that is what happens he should have told me that from the start because I can’t be the first person that has exhaust pressure messing w readings. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes it is in the stock location. He didn’t really specify why I was lean. Which value he was looking at. Just so happened that the o2 sensor failed during tuning. He recommended the fuel pressure test. Which I did last night. Not sure what my results mean but. I’m just gonna send him those new datalogs and hopefully they are better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do need to be moving or can I do this in my garage. Just tried and it went from 38psi to 40 at 4000 rpm parked. When I first start it I get like 51 psi and then it drops down to 38. Not a cold start. Hot start. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok Sensor is replaced. I actually replaced the downstream one also. I had a new one laying around so I figured it couldn't hurt. So here are my datalogs. One is from before I put the new one in. Before it even failed. This datalog is the one he said I was lean. The second is the one I just made with the new sensors. Someone give me some good news please lol.before o2 sensor wot.csv after o2 sensor wot.csv

I never thought about that with the clamp. Good idea. I actually tried to pull It once before to check and was unsuccessful. This time I cut the wires and used a grinder to cut half the sensor off. Then was able to get a regular deep socket on it with impact. That o2 socket was pretty much useless if it’s stuck. Was just rounding it off. I’ll try the hose clamp trick next time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think you are right. I was thinking that also. he kept saying I’m lean but when the code popped I shot soot out my exhaust which has never happened. I’m thinking it wasn’t lean at all and it was reading improperly. He turned up the fuel and now it’s actual rich but doesn’t appear to be on a/f readings. Idk. Just makes sense I guess. We’ll find out. It comes later today. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Awesome. Thanks Max! Hopefully that’s why I was lean and I can keep going on my tune. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

But wouldn’t that be what the injectors are seeing? Before the reg would just be the max power of the pump right?