Ares3985

Does the valve body mod apply to the manual mode or just full auto. I like having more control over the car in manual mode but I wanna be sure there won’t be that huge delay in response between shifting up and the actual shift. That’s the main reason I want this. I hate that it takes so long to manually shift Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I got one coming. Figured I would need it eventually and the price of just the pill line is half what I paid for the EBCS so. Plus I got an external wastegate so Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I’m about to get a tune. I can finally put my intake on. Such a pain that Cobb doesn’t make an sf map for 08. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

After looking at a few pictures and reading posts from some other forums I see what you are saying. I can eliminate where it is leaking by connecting the hose directly instead of going thru the white tube. Then connect the jumper to the plug. I also answered my own question of why I can’t build pressure. It’s because I didn’t plug off vacuum lines. So I have been testing the wrong way this whole time. Luckily I never went above 7 lbs and engine still runs like a top. Tomorrow I will pull out that pcv bs waste of plastic. That should be my final leak Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have an aftermarket inlet. I connected everything as it was w the stock one. So I just tried to pressure test the system and it will only build with the oil cap on. With it off nothing. Is t the pcv supposed stop air from going in? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes. It’s leaking from the white part. Would that effect boost and vacuum? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I recently solved all of my vacuum leaks. Or so I thought. I decided to do a smoke test before I get tuned. Couldn’t figure out where the smoke was coming from. Check all my hoses and finally realized it wasn’t from a hose. What is this sensor or whatever behind my intake manifold because that’s where it’s leaking Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can anyone approximate what the value of oem parts would be if someone wanted to trade for aftermarket parts? Oem downpipe Oem uppipe Oem gt exhaust Oem turbo inlet Prices online are all over the place. Tough to determine from eBay listings. I’m thinking downpipe is 100 Uppipe 30 Exhaust 150 Inlet 30 I could be way off tho. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Has anyone determined the wear effects of a valve body modification? If the valve body is shifting harder and faster wouldn’t it in turn wear the transmission faster? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I know. Was hard enough finding the Intercooler. Hmm yeah I saw his post. Trying to avoid dumping another 300 on a splitter Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is there a method that anyone has found to modifying the stock ducting to fit the process west tmic? I got one today and it was pretty easy to install. the Intercooler is def not totally exposed. Obviously because the PW is oversized. Any diy to Fix this without buying their splitter? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep that’s it. Can’t believe this tiny piece of rubber is almost $40 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I got the vf52 today. Only thing it was missing was the t hose w restrictor pills. Having trouble finding them online. I know I can go to the dealer and find one. Just easier to order it. Anyone know where I can get one or the part number so I can search it?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When I had a tricky exhaust leak I put my shop vac in blow mode. Stuck the hose in the tailpipe and went to every connection w a spray bottle of soapy water. Make sure to clean out the shopvac before you do this you don’t want to blow any debris up there Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok great. You’ve convinced me I was told it would be best to do the fuel pump. Even without the injectors. Either way. I already have the fuel pump so that’s going in either way. The Intercooler and turbo are on their way and then I need to set up my etune Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I am thinking of upgrading my turbo, Intercooler and fuel pump. Just wondering how much of a difference does the vf52 make? Will I notice drastic power increases? I am stage 2 right now and just want to make sure it’s worth it to spend the couple grand to upgrade and tune everything. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Went to hawks nest this morning in NY and took a few photos. Not very good at editing but they came out ok. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just replaced my control arms the other day. With the air chisel spreading the ears it was quite easy to get in. Definitely clean up on the knuckle with a wire brush. A few good taps and it goes right in. You need to manipulate the ball Joint to make sure it’s pretty straight though. If it goes in the slightest angle it gets bound up and stops. I had to adjust a few times before it popped in. I didn’t even spread the knuckle that much. Maybe 1/16th of an inch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Especially old cars from the northeast. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Air chisel worked. All done. So the air chisel probably shouldn’t be used to pound the ball Joint out but it is good for spreading the knuckle. I drove it in then used a chisel on each side. I gotta say I have never had to beat something like this to get it out. It took a good hour or so of pounding. Eventually it didn’t start to come out. When I pulled them. They were disgusting completely rusted and they were so worn out and moved so easily. The new ones are stiff. I greased everything and put never seize on all the bolts. The knuckle bolts had to be replaced. One broke off and the other was so damaged it couldn’t be used. Now I just have to wait for the test drive. Left the key in all night and she’s dead. So I have a slow charge on it. Wish there was a way to move the steering by hand without the key but oh well. It’s done now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got the first side done. Just want a new pinch bolt as to not take any chances. Used the air hammer in the pinch area to spread it and banged 10 times it popped right out. It was so corroded. It definitely had way more play than the new ones. Also changed the sway bar endlink while I was in there and might even do the tie rod end. Now I have to work on the other that has a rounded pinch bolt. Got an extractor set on the way. Hopefully amazon comes through and I can finish the second side today. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well that’s the last resort. Hopefully I can avoid that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok. I’ll try the air hammer. Go grab one tomorrow and some mapp gas. I can’t believe how stuck this thing is. Hopefully the gallon of penetration fluid that’s on it works it’s magic overnight too which will help Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah but isn’t that for just separating the ball joint from the control arm? I’m trying to get the ball out of the knuckle Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok guys. I have a problem again. So my control arms are shot. I got a new set with everything pressed in already. So I disassembled everything except for the ball joints. I have the pinch bolt out of the knuckle and have been beating on this control arm with a 3lb hammer for hours. I’ve drenched this thing in penetrating fluid. I heated it. Keep beating the heck out of it. I can’t get it out. To be clear. I am trying to separate the control with the ball joint in it from the knuckle. Not the ball joint from the control arm. If anyone had any ideas on how to get this thing out it would be appreciated because now I have 2 control arms hanging down and are beat to hell. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk